Nichia High CRI LED - 119V

kaichu dento

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Emitters don't make rings - improper fitting makes rings and if you have a light showing rings, the fitment between the reflector and emitter needs to be adjusted.

My early 119 Haiku shows no ringiness whatsoever and it's also worth noting that some artifacts showing up in pictures are not visible in actual usage. If you've found pictures showing what you feel to be a problem then you might try sending a PM to the taker of those shots, or try contacting Don McGizmo directly - he's very congenial to talk to and not only has owned every iteration of Haiku out there, he made them.
 
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InvisibleFrodo

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I have no interest in continuing this conversation as It seems obvious that you simply want to argue. I know that there is no such thing as a ring emitting LED. Don has been using the same reflector that was originally designed for the XPG in Haikus that are using the 119, the 119v, and the XP-G2. When the size of the light source changes, and the same reflector is used, the resultant beam pattern will be different. If you own a Haiku with the 119v emitter, please feel free to post a white wall beam shot. If not, than I feel satisfied knowing that the answer to my question is that you don't actually know the answer. End of discussion.
 

scout24

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Yes, the 119V has a slight ring. Whitewall hunters need not apply... :) Of no consequence in real life use, IMHO. Welcome to CPF, by the way. Sheesh...
 

InvisibleFrodo

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Thank you! I'm already receiving quite an education. I didn't even know that I thought those rings came from the LED until someone told me that I think that. Before then I thought that I thought it was coming from using that specific reflector in combination with that specific LED. :whistle:
 

archimedes

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Thank you! I'm already receiving quite an education....

You are fortunate indeed to have gotten prompt responses from several of CPF's most respected members ... eala (0.8K posts, 5 years), kaichu dento (4.9K posts, 6 years), & scout24 (3.0K posts, 6 years) have probably even forgotten more about flashlights than I have yet learned :)

As you see, the group here is generally a rather friendly and helpful bunch :wave:
 
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scout24

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I've had two Haiku 119v's now, an AA and the 3v 123 that I routinely carry currently. Both were the same beam pattern wise. Again, real life use shows they are fine. The color rendition far outweighs any beam artifacts. The XM-L is brighter but floodier, the XP-G2 is similar in pattern to the 119V. I owned an XP-G2 briefly, deciding that the added lumens were not personally worth giving up the color rendition. Your uses, and mileage, may vary.
 

scout24

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Archimedes- you should post your lumens vs. time here chart... :) I've learned a thing or two from you over time as well...
 

nbp

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See, if you are friendly and cordial and ask kindly you get all the answers you need. :rolleyes:
 

rickyro

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I've had two Haiku 119v's now, an AA and the 3v 123 that I routinely carry currently. Both were the same beam pattern wise. Again, real life use shows they are fine. The color rendition far outweighs any beam artifacts. The XM-L is brighter but floodier, the XP-G2 is similar in pattern to the 119V. I owned an XP-G2 briefly, deciding that the added lumens were not personally worth giving up the color rendition. Your uses, and mileage, may vary.

I should read this one week ago. I just chose one XP-G2 over 119V. I think I will regret it.
 

fyrstormer

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what are you photographing with your McGiz?
Pretty much everything indoors. Lots of RC car stuff nowadays. I have a point-n-shoot camera, so the flash produces a lot of burnout at close range, and I find I have much better luck turning off the flash, letting the camera adjust to its maximum exposure time of 0.5s, and waving my Mule across the item I'm photographing to produce the effect of multiple light sources. Examples:







Note the lack of hard shadows, thanks to the long exposure time capturing light from my Mule shining on the subject from multiple angles.

This one doesn't use that technique, but I like how the Hi-CRI light makes the red anodizing on the motor shine:

 
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McGizmo

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Don: what are your thoughts regarding the new Nichia 119/219 "C" LEDs?

It looks as though it's a pretty big upgrade, even compared to the XP-G2 LEDs from what I can tell: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/40133

I can't find the spec in Nichia's spec sheet but as I recall when I first heard about these, the die is larger than that of the earlier LED's which is fine but if you seek a collimated beam then the XP-G2 would likely serve you better than the 1(2)19C. And CRI is similar until they come out with the high CRI version. I haven't come across anything yet that surpasses the 119 and 119V I have on hand in terms of CRI and CCT that would compell me to scrap them and move on to a next generation alternative.
 
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