NiteCore D10 Comparison Review

mighty82

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Okay, they are not THAT different in brightness, but it looks to me that the P3D is at least 20 lumens brighter. The P3D hotspot is brighter, but the spill is about the same. And it looks like the spill from the P3D is a little wider. It's really amazing that a flashlight this small can compete with one of the brightest 2x123 lights.
 

UnknownVT

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Okay, they are not THAT different in brightness, but it looks to me that the P3D is at least 20 lumens brighter. The P3D hotspot is brighter, but the spill is about the same. And it looks like the spill from the P3D is a little wider. It's really amazing that a flashlight this small can compete with one of the brightest 2x123 lights.


Thank you for that.

I wish it were that easy to measure brightness with a photo -
perhaps I should modify my guess/take to 180-190 lumens?
BTW - that was actually what the NDI - NiteCore Defender Infinity was rated at in its manual for NiMH (180) and Li-Ion (190).

Stairway matrix -
StairD10Li.jpg
StairD10Ni.jpg

StairNDIli2.jpg
StairL1Dq5Li.jpg


Color removed/deSaturated versions of same stairway beamshots -
StairD10LiDeSat.jpg
StairD10NiDeSat.jpg

StairNDIli2deSat.jpg
StairL1Dq5LiDeSat.jpg
 

Wattnot

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About this "how much brighter" debate, you might want to get more DISTANCE and/or maybe just go outside. At just a few feet, a "slightly" brighter hotspot might BLOW AWAY the other one when you increase the "challenge," especially if there is THROW involved.

So in other words . . . TAKE IT OUTSIDE, FELLAS!!! :devil:

I agree that the P3D looks slightly brighter but you will probably see a much larger difference at 30 or 50 feet. But still . . . a single AA holding it's own in that contest is VERY impressive! Well done Nitecore and good job on this review!
 

UnknownVT

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you might want to get more DISTANCE
I agree that the P3D looks slightly brighter but you will probably see a much larger difference at 30 or 50 feet.

Appreciate the pun.

But according to my school physics intensity varies with distance by the inverse square law - so DOUBLE the intensity is equalled only by an increase in distance of about 41%.

mighty82's estimate of 20 lumens difference - that is only 10% of the rated 200 lumens of the Fenix P3D-RB100 - so the difference in distance would then only be about 5% - so at 30 feet the 10% brighter would reach an extra 1.5 feet, and at 50 feet the 10% extra brightness would reach an extra 2.5ft -
I think that would easily be in experimental/judgement error.

This highlights 2 major points here -

1) my comparison photos are NOT there for measuring lumens levels -
if it were that easy everyone would just be taking photos instead of using expensive integrating spheres.
My side-by-side comparison beamshots are merely there for a "look-see" and a sort of qualitative judgement - yes, of course it is always open to interpretation "slightly" vs. "a lot" etc.

2) when it is hard to judge which is brighter, or if the photos seem to show there is very little difference then in all practicality there is very little difference - a light will NOT magically perform better outdoors - when a distance of about 15 feet shows there wasn't much difference between the D10 and the P3D-RB100 even in their hotspot intensity.

Here are 2 rated 225 lumens lights to compare - look specifically at the two hotspots -
StairJET1ibsLi.jpg
StairFenixTK10.jpg

both these light probably will out-throw either the D10 or the P3D-RB100 - but the TK10 will do better as its hotspot is a lot more intense - but then it has a much bigger and better reflector than the D10, P3D, or JET-1.
 
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wild68fury

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So here is my real dilemma. I need a new light. :shakehead OK, OK, OK, my P3D-RB100 works great but I have been dying for a new light ever since I shot up the T1. The Q5 can put out 225 lumens at the emitter but the RB-100 puts out 200. Not enough by itself, only 10% brighter. So if I can get lets say 240-250 lumens, or 20%, that would be a good reason for me to buy another light. OR if I could get 10% brighter and a cool interface. Well, I would not be able to keep the $$$$ in my wallet. I was hoping the EX10 (similar output to the D10) would make me happy. Still waiting.... Nitecore, how about a 18650 light with piston drive. :poke:
 

Wattnot

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Appreciate the pun.

But according to my school physics intensity varies with distance by the inverse square law - so DOUBLE the intensity is equalled only by an increase in distance of about 41%.

mighty82's estimate of 20 lumens difference - that is only 10% of the rated 200 lumens of the Fenix P3D-RB100 - so the difference in distance would then only be about 5% - so at 30 feet the 10% brighter would reach an extra 1.5 feet, and at 50 feet the 10% extra brightness would reach an extra 2.5ft -
I think that would easily be in experimental/judgement error.

Blah blah what did you say? What pun? All of your scientific blah blah is based on someone's observation of your photo and guessing a 20 lumen difference? You can't be serious. I was trying to be funny and make an obvious point but it was obviously lost with you!!

The proof will be outside. The reason I'm saying get distance is because you CANNOT TELL the difference in the hotspot on your door up the stairs from that photo but the distance will let your inverse square law take over and give a more accurate rendition. Now do you get it?
 

WildChild

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By a ceiling bounce test, I find the D10 is about the same brightness as my SureFire L1, way less brighter than the 120 lumens E2DL. But I know that SF are often underrated so it can probably be explained. Still I really like the way the D10 works, its brightness for a 1 AA and the quality of the machining. Those threads shouldn't wear and crossthread anytime soon!

Be careful, by blowing dust with a compressed air can, the cool air caused condensation to appear under the warm lens (the light was turned on). This condensation left a stain on the lens... See this:

http://img502.imageshack.us/img502/4277/img3627hs7.jpg
 
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jbviau

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That would be so easy to wipe off with the EX10. I've taken the head apart three times on mine already. Hopefully the tool for the D10 will be made available at some point.
 

WildChild

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That would be so easy to wipe off with the EX10. I've taken the head apart three times on mine already. Hopefully the tool for the D10 will be made available at some point.

The D10 isn't easy to open... I managed to break mine. I bent the brass ring and it cracked on the angle. I tryed to form it back but now the level switching action isn't reliable anymore...
 

UnknownVT

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Blah blah what did you say? What pun? All of your scientific blah blah is based on someone's observation of your photo and guessing a 20 lumen difference? You can't be serious. I was trying to be funny and make an obvious point but it was obviously lost with you!!

The proof will be outside. The reason I'm saying get distance is because you CANNOT TELL the difference in the hotspot on your door up the stairs from that photo but the distance will let your inverse square law take over and give a more accurate rendition. Now do you get it?

I got it -

Just took both the D10 (Li-Ion) and the P3D-RB100 outside and at a distance of approx 35 big paces which would be something like 100-105 feet - and shone them both on a solid fence, then one after the other - and they were about the same -
this stands to reason since their outputs are similar (no, not the same, but similar) and both the reflectors are about the same size - there is no reason why the P3D would have noticably better throw unless it was a lot brighter. Sorry - so distance did not make a difference.
 

Wattnot

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I got it -

Just took both the D10 (Li-Ion) and the P3D-RB100 outside and at a distance of approx 35 big paces which would be something like 100-105 feet - and shone them both on a solid fence, then one after the other - and they were about the same -
this stands to reason since their outputs are similar (no, not the same, but similar) and both the reflectors are about the same size - there is no reason why the P3D would have noticably better throw unless it was a lot brighter. Sorry - so distance did not make a difference.

Cool . . . thanks for checking. That is all I was saying. It was too hard to tell the difference from a hotspot a couple of feet away.

So we're back to . . . . DAMN! That's IMPRESSIVE for a single AA light!!
 

UnknownVT

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It was too hard to tell the difference from a hotspot a couple of feet away.

The standardized stairway beamshots are 15 feet, and neither the D10 or the P3Drb100 have burnout hotspots - that is why I included the stairway beamshot of the Fenix TK10 in my earlier post to illustrate the difference.

A really good thrower is the cheapo Dorcy 1watt 3D - based on a mere old fashioned 1watt Luxeon - the total output as expected is not that high, probably in the order of 45 lumens - at the bulb at that..... BUT its big polished/shiney reflector is designed in such a way to throw really well.

Outdoors compared to the legendary "ultra bright" SureFire 9P - that's a 3x lithium CR123 Xenon light (rated at 105 lumens)
Dorcy3D.jpg
pampasSF9P.jpg



But the stairway shot shows that the total output is not that great -
Stairs_Dorcy3D.jpg
StairD10Li.jpg

StairP3Drb100.jpg

but look at the Dorcy's hotspot!

I also shone the D10 and P3Drb100 at some tree tops later on last night - est. distance about 140 feet, they were both about the same for illuminating. I shone the lights side-by-side - then crossed them over, then tried one after the other - for all intents and purposes they were the same.
 
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UnknownVT

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I know that people have WoW'ed the bright light level of the NiteCore D10 for a single AA light - but to be fair others have matched it like the Fenix L1D-Q5 and even bettered it JETbeam JET-1 MK IBS . But for me one of the WoWs is the minimum low level -

D10 on Minimum level -

NiMH -

vs. NDI NiteCore Defender Infinity also Min on NiMH
D10minNi_NDI.jpg
D10minNi_NDI2U.jpg

pretty obvious that the D10 has a lower minmum level than the NDI

vs. JETbeam JET-1 MK IBS Min NiMH
D10minNi_JET.jpg
D10minNi_JET2U.jpg


vs. Fenix E01 NiMH
D10minNi_E01.jpg
D10minNi_E01U2.jpg

the E01 is substantially brighter than the D10 on minimum - NiMH.

vs. classic Arc-AAA (~2003) NiMH
D10minNi_Arc.jpg
D10minNi_Arc2U.jpg

again it's pretty obvious that even the older ArcAAA is brighter.
 

UnknownVT

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D10 on Minimum level -
NiMH -

It can easily be seen from the post above that the minimum low level of the D10 is noticably lower than any of the lights compared.

How about some seriously low level lights - that were more purpose built to give low outputs?
D10sz2.jpg


Heads -
D10hd2.jpg


vs. eternaLight Ergo 3 Red/White on lowest level - white
D10minNi_eterna.jpg
D10minNi_eterna2U.jpg

this shows that the D10 can't go quite as low as the eternalight - but then the ergo3 is kind of purpose built for its adjustable low levels.
note: my ergo3 is a Red/White option which means the lowest level is a single 5mm white LED controlled by PWM.

vs. Rigel SkyLite Mini Red/White on lowest white level
D10minNi_Rigl.jpg
D10minNi_Rigl2U.jpg

this only goes to show that the Rigel Mini SkyLite can go even lower -
but Rigel Systems purpose build their lights mainly for astronomers who need to perserve their night adaption - they mosly use red - but the SkyLite has a switchable white option which has an extremely low level.
In comparison the NiteCore D10's lowest level would be "dazzling" - but most of us are not astronomers even if some of us are - white probably would not be used - so this comparison although interesting is really academic - the D10 has a very useful low level that most probably already would find a bit too low for general usage. Kudos to NiteCore for providing a true low level. :thumbsup:
 

mighty82

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Only thing I know for sure is that the low level is NOT 5 lumens as advertised. Neither is it 3 lumens. I think it's about 1 or below. This is a good thing, it's just wierd they could miss by that much.

Also, one thing to remember about the "high" level on 14500 is that it drops 25% the first 20 minutes. It will stabilize first when the battery voltage get's below the vf voltage. So, it's only the first minutes it can compete with the P3D. :)
 

UnknownVT

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Also, one thing to remember about the "high" level on 14500 is that it drops 25% the first 20 minutes. It will stabilize first when the battery voltage get's below the vf voltage. So, it's only the first minutes it can compete with the P3D. :)

Yes, I saw that too in selfbuilt's wonderful review -
I don't think the drop is quite 25% - more like 18%?

Anyway I did not use freshly charged Li-Ion 14500 -
but cannot say exactly how long the 14500 had been used for -
probably less than 20 minutes, but more than 5 mins.

To help investigate this further - I found a pretty well (partially) discharged 14500 -
open-circuit voltage of 3.81V which I believe is pretty low - well over 1/2 discharged?
so the battery would definitely be well into the flat part of selfbuilt's runtime graph.

Li-Ion 14500 over half discharged - o-c = 3.81V
D10LiPartDischg_P3D.jpg
D10LiPartDischg_P3D2U.jpg

I'm a bit surprised that it is hard to see that much difference between the D10 and P3D-RB100 - yes, of course the P3D is brighter - but not by as much as I thought it would be.....

However the Stairway beamshot was more telling - this was taken after the above set of beamshots -
by then the 14500 was down to 3.80V o-c
StairD10LiPartDischg.jpg
StairD10Li.jpg

StairD10Ni.jpg
StairP3Drb100.jpg

this shows the D10 on an over half discharged 14500 is not as bright as one that had been used for only a few minutes or obviously the P3D-RB100 - the level on the over half-discharged 14500 (3.80V o-c) looks closer to that of the NiMH.

However having said that - the difference is not that great to make any real practical difference -
but the D10 does drop in brightness on a partially discharged Li-Ion 14500

Just a comment: like others I have found the D10 does heats up pretty quickly on Li-Ion 14500 on max level - so to run it continuously for over 10 minutes probably is not that advisable
 

UnknownVT

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I also "took it outside"
shining the light(s) on tree tops - est. 140 feet -
the D10 with the mostly discharged Li-Ion 14500 was not as bright as with a recently charged 14500 (with only a few minutes use) or the Fenix P3D-RB100, and about the same as the D10 on NiMH.

The difference was not that great - but noticable - I am not too sure how much difference it would make practically - I thought I could see as well with all these combinations.
 

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