NiteCore Extreme Review - RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, COMPARISONS, etc.

[selfbuilt]

Just out of curiosity, which light would you prefer out of the extreme and the 120P? Is the extreme good enough to knock the 120p off its throne?

It's hard to say.

For low mode use, I definitely prefer the much lower low modes of the 120P, and I like the smoother transition of spot to spill that the SSC emitter provides. But I find the spill of the 120P to be a little dim, requiring me to go up to higher output levels to illuminate a wider area. But if I had to choose between the two for low mode night-time use, the 120P would win. But truth be told, I keep finding myself gravitating back to my NDI for low mode use for its good balance of spot/spill brightness.

The Extreme is of course a lot brighter and throwier on hi, which is great for that use. It is also more efficient on max (I typically don't run my 120P higher than 85 lumens, because I find the trade-off in battery runtime isn't worth it). With its excellent throw and brighter spill, I prefer the Extreme for cases where a lot of light is desired. But here I'm more likely to grab my Jet-II IBS, due to its even better throw.

In other words, I have yet to find one light that does everything.

Oh, and I've just added the ramping graph to the main post. As you can see, its not too different from the NDI (just ~1 sec faster on RCR):

 

[TOTC]

Thanks for the fantastic review. Especially now that it has been confirmed to be compatible with E-series bodies, this light may be in my near future.

Two quick questions that have to do with my poor reading comprehension

1. Can you confirm that no amount of tapping on the switch will change modes? I'm 99% sure this is what you are saying when you specifically note that only the head switches modes, but I just want to be 100% sure before I bite the bullet. I like to be able to tap away in momentary without switching modes.

2. You mentioned that the user can switch to the user-defined brightness by loosening the head, but can this only be done once the light is already on? I.E. does the light have to be activated in high mode and then switched down to low via a twist of the head, or can you twist the head loose while the light is off so that it can be turned on in low mode?

 

[DrunkenDonut]

1. Can you confirm that no amount of tapping on the switch will change modes?

It should not - it doesn't use a power-controlled mode switching method.

2. You mentioned that the user can switch to the user-defined brightness by loosening the head, but can this only be done once the light is already on?

If you turn the light off then switch modes, the light will turn on in the old mode first, then switch to the new mode after the detection period of about 0.5 seconds. It seems to switch faster sometimes. :shrug:

 

[selfbuilt]

1. Can you confirm that no amount of tapping on the switch will change modes?

Tap away! There's no way to change modes at the tailcap, only by twisting the head.

2. You mentioned that the user can switch to the user-defined brightness by loosening the head, but can this only be done once the light is already on? I.E. does the light have to be activated in high mode and then switched down to low via a twist of the head, or can you twist the head loose while the light is off so that it can be turned on in low mode?

Because the light allows half a second to change modes from user defined, whenever you tighten the head you have have to wait 0.5 secs for the brightness to jump to max. If the light is off when you tighten the head (i.e. light was in user defined when turned off), you will still need to wait 0.5 secs after activation for the light to go to max. This is the same as the NDI.

The other direction is different. On my NDIs, if the light was in max when shut-off (i.e. tightened), but subsequently loosened before re-activation, the light comes back on immediately in user defined mode. I just tested this on my Extreme though, and there is a wrinkle - if you do drop down to user defined and re-activate the light within a few seconds of turning it off in max, you get a brief flash before it goes to the previously set user defined level (*very* similar to the well-known Fenix P2D/LxD flash in low mode). The flash isn't present on any of my NDIs, and only shows up on the Extreme if you re-activate within ~ 5secs of turning it off.

 

[TOTC]

Interesting. Thanks guys!

 

[DrunkenDonut]

The other direction is a bit different. ...

Hrm.. My memory is going I also see that flash when going in that direction, but it doesn't happen all the time, does it? I just tried again and it's working without any bright flash.

 

[selfbuilt]

Hrm.. My memory is going I also see that flash when going in that direction, but it doesn't happen all the time, does it? I just tried again and it's working without any bright flash.

Yeah, I've been playing with it some more, and it seems the flash only occurs if you re-activate the light within ~ 5 secs from turning it off in max. If you give it longer than that, then there is no flash after going from max to user defined while switched off. I've just updated my earlier comments.

 

[DrunkenDonut]

Regarding e-series compat., in case anyone is curious about some lego combinations, here's another pic of the McClickie + Extreme head, as well as the Extreme body with E1e head (a really compact combo).

http://www.madbits.ca/~j_chan/Gallery/2008-06-01__ExtremeShorty/DSC01102.html

E1e body with Extreme head was posted a few times earlier. I don't have too many more pieces I could put together so I guess that's it for now unless you want to see a rediculous pic of the Exteme body + E-C adapter + C-M adapter + Milkyspit M180-KL2.

I also posted the that combo earlier but with the McClickie instead of the Extreme body. It's not a particularly good colour combo but at least the light is functional and gets a chuckle or two.

 

[Crenshaw]

unless you want to see a rediculous pic of the Exteme body + E-C adapter + C-M adapter + Milkyspit M180-KL2.

by the way, what are you running in the extreme body+E1E head?

im waiting for fenix-store to have them in store before i buy one...

Crenshaw

 

[DrunkenDonut]

Okay okay.. Well, here's the McClickie but the Extreme should be similar. It's quite front heavy but it's fun. The head is with my brother so I have to borrow it back to take another picture. Perhaps later.

http://www.madbits.ca/~j_chan/Gallery/2008-05-26__McClickie/DSC01078.html

by the way, what are you running in the extreme body+E1E head?

Nothing at the moment. It's the stock incan head so it's not particularly impressive. Perhaps I'll get one of koala's towers.

 

[Nake]

Got mine today, nice light. Something I'd like to pass on. I found the allen key they supplied for the clip screws, a bit sloppy when I put it in the screw. I mic'd it up and it was .058". I found one that fit snug and it was .062". I'm mentioning it because if the screw is tight, you stand a chance of rounding it off inside.

 

[selfbuilt]

I found the allen key they supplied for the clip screws, a bit sloppy when I put it in the screw. I mic'd it up and it was .058". I found one that fit snug and it was .062". I'm mentioning it because if the screw is tight, you stand a chance of rounding it off inside.

Thanks Nake. My supplied key is also .058", and I found it turned the screws fine. But as always, a tighter fit is better.

FYI, I've just updated the main post with a runtime of Novatac 120P at 15lm (level 16) on primaries, and added the 120P ramp.

(just hit your browser re-load if its not showing the 120P trace)

Note that while the 120P also takes ~11.5 secs or so to run through its full output range of 22 steps, it takes another ~13 secs or so to go through the 2 strobe and 1 SOS modes before restarting the 22 output levels.

FYI, I'm only showing ~every other step on the 120P, for simplicity sake. I'll be presenting a more detailed 120P ramping graph when I finally get around to writing a separate review of that light.

:wave:

 

[276]

i just got mine today can't try RCR's in them cause the only ones i have is are to thick, i looked at fenix store but cant tell which ones to get?

 

[selfbuilt]

i just got mine today can't try RCR's in them cause the only ones i have is are to thick, i looked at fenix store but cant tell which ones to get?

AW RCR123A

 

[Nake]

Well, after a few days of owning mine, the switch starts to not work correctly. I should say working intermitently. So I'm thinking the switch has gone bad, that's why there are 2 extra right,... wrong. I replace it and same thing. After closer scrutinizing, I see that the retaining ring that holds the switch assembly together is too small. That is, the threads on the ring are barely coming in contact with the threads in the body. I can actually put the ring on my pinky finger and push it into the body. After wrapping a couple of layers of teflon tape on the ring, it seems to be holding. I shouldn't have to do this with a $100 light.

I bought this at Scope and Laser and don't want to send it back, as I'm not clear on their return policy. All I need is a retaining ring that fits. Does Nitecore have an email address where I can get this problem solved?

I am so pissed!!!!

 

[selfbuilt]

Well, after a few days of owning mine, the switch starts to not work correctly. I should say working intermitently. So I'm thinking the switch has gone bad, that's why there are 2 extra right,... wrong. I replace it and same thing. After closer scrutinizing, I see that the retaining ring that holds the switch assembly together is too small. That is, the threads on the ring are barely coming in contact with the threads in the body. I can actually put the ring on my pinky finger and push it into the body. After wrapping a couple of layers of teflon tape on the ring, it seems to be holding. I shouldn't have to do this with a $100 light.

That's certainly not right. I haven't had any problems with mine, but I can see how this could be a potential weak link, given its small size.

I suspect scope and laser gets their lights from Fu-lee (based on some other threads about other lights), but best to go directly to Edgetac. You'll find their e-mail address at the bottom of their RaidFire Spear thread (I don't think its listed in the Extreme thread).

I'm sure they'll make it right for you - please keep us posted.

P.S.: I know there have been some issues with sole U.S. distributor of Edgetac lights, but I understand they are about to announce a second one. There are also two other north american distributors (both in Canada): photongears.com and fenixtactical.com. I don't know if any of the above could also help you out, but it never hurts to ask!

 

[ViReN]

Well, after a few days of owning mine, the switch starts to not work correctly. I should say working intermitently. So I'm thinking the switch has gone bad, that's why there are 2 extra right,... wrong. I replace it and same thing. After closer scrutinizing, I see that the retaining ring that holds the switch assembly together is too small. That is, the threads on the ring are barely coming in contact with the threads in the body. I can actually put the ring on my pinky finger and push it into the body. After wrapping a couple of layers of teflon tape on the ring, it seems to be holding. I shouldn't have to do this with a $100 light.

I bought this at Scope and Laser and don't want to send it back, as I'm not clear on their return policy. All I need is a retaining ring that fits. Does Nitecore have an email address where I can get this problem solved?

I am so pissed!!!!

There is some thing that is not right with your light... try PMing EdgeTac on marketplace

Over the days Since the Review I have noticed that switch has become little soft and even more easy to operate... but no signs of any fatigue or intermittent working.... It still works like it used to before.

I am still continuing the long term testing... will post results in a couple of weeks ...

 

[Nake]

There is some thing that is not right with your light... try PMing EdgeTac on marketplace

I know what's wrong with it. The spring side of the board the switch is mounted on is supposed to make contact with a ledge inside the body. The retaining ring pushes on the edge of the rubber boot, which pushes on the switch board. Either the ring is bad or the treads in the body are bad. I'm guessing it's the ring.

I contacted Edgetac thru their support email address. They're on a holiday again.

 

[Crenshaw]

Okay okay.. Well, here's the McClickie but the Extreme should be similar. It's quite front heavy but it's fun. The head is with my brother so I have to borrow it back to take another picture. Perhaps later.

http://www.madbits.ca/~j_chan/Gallery/2008-05-26__McClickie/DSC01078.html

Nothing at the moment. It's the stock incan head so it's not particularly impressive. Perhaps I'll get one of koala's towers.

that looks oddly compelling,its surely a sign whoever the owner is is a flashaholic

perhpas lumen factory E1E bulb and a Li-on?

Crenshaw

 

[EDGETAC]

Well, after a few days of owning mine, the switch starts to not work correctly. I should say working intermitently. So I'm thinking the switch has gone bad, that's why there are 2 extra right,... wrong. I replace it and same thing. After closer scrutinizing, I see that the retaining ring that holds the switch assembly together is too small. That is, the threads on the ring are barely coming in contact with the threads in the body. I can actually put the ring on my pinky finger and push it into the body. After wrapping a couple of layers of teflon tape on the ring, it seems to be holding. I shouldn't have to do this with a $100 light.

I bought this at Scope and Laser and don't want to send it back, as I'm not clear on their return policy. All I need is a retaining ring that fits. Does Nitecore have an email address where I can get this problem solved?

I am so pissed!!!!

Hello Nake,

Sorry for late response.

Please refer to your email, I have just replied to it concerning the issue, thanks!


Best Regards,
EDGE TAC