HelloMy hc50 seems to show absolutely no visible jump from high to turbo, after the battery is down to about 4v. Is this normal? Its shouldn't be heat related because its the same even after cooling completely and then restarting. Love the light, but if turbo is this lousy after the very top of the battery is gone, I would rather they have just left turbo out of the mode cycle. Running the light on Eagtac 3400s. Maybe I was expecting too much, but the armytek wizard ramps up to turbo even down to 3.2v or so. I'm only going to keep 1 light and am trying to convince myself to keep hc50 because of red leds but its output to me isn't what they claim on turbo. I understand that 1000 lumens on wizard is a lot more, but I would hope to be able to at least see some jump in the nitecore further down through the battery curve.
Can anyone tell me how much the battery cap must be unscrewed to disconnect the light. It seems that floating board might maintain contact for quite a while.
It might be handy to only need to slightly loosen and re-tighten the cap in order to get the precise battery-voltage reading.
The cap on my HC50 requires to turn it at about 40° (angle),to disconnect the power.Does the switch cap also unscrew? I didn't see any pictures in this review with the switch cap off. If it is bonded, how do you replace the switch boot when it finally tears?
I have a couple of questions for the owners of these. I'm looking for a headlamp with a neutral to warm tint, and a decent flood. So far the only other candidate is the Fenix HL30. The latter seems to have a good flood, but perhaps too much, and a decent tint. So I was wondering how this one goes with tint and flood?