Nitecore MH20GT: XP-L HI V3,micro-usb, 1x18650, 362 meters, 1000 lumens, (beam)shots

kj75

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In the past months, Nitecore surprised us several times by launching GT-versions of their lights. Characteristic for the GT-series is the impressive throw, thanks to the flat XP-L HI led. The latest member of the GT-series is the MH20GT. The specifications of this torch (especially the maximum distance) are promising! In this review I'll show you this light, also compared to the MH20-brother. So, let's kick off!

the "turbo-version" of the Nitecore MH20
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powered by a flat XP-L HI V3 led
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compact but big performance
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chargeable via micro-usb
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As usual, we'll start by looking at the manufacturer specs:

Features:

· A lightweight, portable 1x18650 USB rechargeable flashlight
· Utilizes a CREE XP-L HI V3 LED
· High efficiency constant current circuit enables maximum output up to 1000 lumens
· Driven by one 18650 battery for maximum runtime up to 680 hours
· Integrated "Precision Digital Optics Technology" provides extreme reflector performance
· Boasts a peak beam intensity of 33,000 cd and a throw distance of up to 362 meters
· Features advanced temperature regulation (ATR) technology
· Innovative single button 2-stage switch accesses multiple functions and modes
· Integrated power indicator notifies battery voltage (accurate to 0.1V)
· Intelligent charging module with a micro USB port charges Li-ion battery rapidly
· Direct access to ultra-low and turbo output
· Detachable two-way anti-rolling clip
· Toughened ultra-clear mineral glass with anti-reflective coating
· Constructed from aerospace grade aluminum alloy
· HAIII military grade hard-anodized
· Waterproof in accordance with IPX-8 (2 meters submersible)
· Impact resistant to 1.5 meters
· Tail stand capability

Dimensions:

· Length: 4.37" / 111mm
· Head diameter: 1.25" / 31.8mm
· Tail diameter: 1" / 25.4mm
· Weight: 3.13oz / 88.8gram (without battery)

And the output specs:
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Mind that the Nitecore used a 3400mAh cell this time, instead of the 2600mAh battery that's used during the MH20 runtime test.

Unboxing:

No surprise here, almost the same box as the MH20. A colorful and attractive carton, with nice prints and a special mention of the maximum distance. It's a complete box, and ready to use: in contrast to my review-sample, most dealers will send out the package including 18650. So, no wishes left here; this tiny box is complete! Have a look at the pictures below that show the box and the contents.

the attractive box of the MH20GT
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with the most important specs written on the side this time
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the box is complete: only a battery is missing; but most dealers will ship including a cell
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Impressions:

The MH20GT isn't completely new for me because I reviewed the MH20 before. Both light and parts are almost equal, but the main difference is the light's head. To create better throw out of the XP-L HI V3, the MH20GT got a bigger head and deeper reflector. The pictures further on in this review will show you the differences!

The MH20GT is still one of the most compact rechargeable-lights in its class. It has a rather big head, but overall nice proportions, and personally, I like the looks of this torch. Thanks to the little "aggressive" design the MH20GT is comfortable to handle and won't easily slip out of your hand. It is a well-machined and finished light; I couldn't detect any defects at the anodizing. Maybe, for flashaholics, the prints at the light should be aligned to the switch and the usb-port at the lights head…The switch (that is one-for-all) is hidden in a notch, and therefore easy to distinguish relative to the usb-port that's at the other side of the lights' head. It's also better protected against accidentally-on. The MH20GT has stable tailstand and one of the best anti-rolling design I've seen before. The engraving is done sufficiently. The MH20GT has a smooth reflector without defects, and a perfectly centered XP-L HI V3 led. The deep pocket clip is not the strongest I met, but does what it's made for and can be clipped-on at two ways. The rubber cover that protects the usb-port against water and dust needs a firm press to close. Please check carefully when closed to ensure water resistance. Sometimes, when no closed the right way, the cover will "pop out".The threads run smooth and are lubed well (like most Nitecores). Inside the tube, the head and the tailcap. I couldn't find any shortcomings. So, all in all, I can tell you the MH20GT is very good built and finished and hasn't (for me) obvious shortcomings. Please scroll down to have a look at a bunch of impression and comparison pictures!

MH20GT, one of the most compact single-18650 lights
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has a bit aggressive design
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easy to carry
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integrated charging function
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excellent anti-roll design
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good job on anodizing; and a close up to the usb-port cover
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well-centered led, needed for a thrower!
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laser engraving well-done, overall machining also
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the threads are lubed well
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a hard job to add the lanyard, a needle is needed! The clip is added reverse here
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a look into the tailcap
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smooth reflector without defects
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the button is "hidden" in a notch to avoid accidentally-on
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the head and tube size are almost the same
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the typical, flat XP-L HI led
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the rubber cover needs to be closed securely
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standby beacon will help you to locate the MH20GT in total darkness
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edc-thrower!
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both MH20-members together with recommended cells
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slightly longer MH20GT
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both lights have the same parts
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except the bigger head of the MH20GT
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a close-up to the heads
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little difference inside
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a look into the refectors
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User interface:

The MH20GT is easy to handle with and feels comfortable in the hand. The switch is easy recognizable because of head's shape and the MH20GT can be fully controlled by one hand. Also the stiff structure and the possibility of location beacon in the button are comfortable features.

Charging of the light works fine and without problems. During charging the blue indicator lights up once per three seconds until the light is fully charged and the indicator permanently on. The indicator flickers if there's something wrong with the charging progress.

About the switch: Nitecore still speaks about a 2-stage switch, but I count three…A slight/half press, a normal press and an deep press. The slight press is needed for instant lower (a long press from off), instant turbo (a long press when on), mode switching (a short press when on) or location beacon (a short press when off). Real inventive! A normal press will switch on the MH20GT in last used mode or off. A deep press, with the button all way down, will bring instant turbo mode (when off) or strobe (when on). This allway-down feature goes little heavy, and will hurt your thumb a little. If in strobe mode, half press to cycle through the total three special modes. If in SOS or beacon mode, half-press and hold to enter direct strobe. This is a kind of instant-mode, but works only when the MH20GT is already in a special mode.

Overall, this is the most complete one-button-interface I've seen, and still one of my favorites.

Modes:

The MH20GT has in total five normal modes, order of: LOWER > LOW > MID > HIGH > TURBO. Again, I'm happy with the good low, but the step between LOWER an LOW is too big. An extra mode of about 10 lumens would be a nice addition here. You can only shift up, not down through the modes.

The three special modes are: STROBE > SOS > BEACON. The MH20GT has also a STANDBY-Mode, the button will short flash once per 3 seconds. Ideal mode to locate you light, and simply to turn on or off. You can LOCK-OUT the MH20GT by releasing the tailcap or the lights' head a little.

ATR:

The MH20 has advanced temperature regulation to avoid the light will be overheated. When it gets hot, light will (dynamically) decrease output. Time of this depends on actual conditons like temperature, wind speed and so on. In practice it's no problem to use this light longer time at turbo mode, it will not get, like some tiny lights, very hot in a few minutes.

Size comparison:

Some Nitecore members in this comparison: of course the MH20 and MH20GT; also shown here the EA11 that runs on a 14500-cell and the EC4 that runs on two 18650-cells.

CR123A, 18650, Nitecore EA11, Nitecore MH20, Nitecore MH20GT and Nitecore EC4
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Nitecore EA11, Nitecore MH20, Nitecore MH20GT and Nitecore EC4
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Nitecore EA11, Nitecore MH20, Nitecore MH20GT and Nitecore EC4
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a zoom-in to the heads: 3 x XM-L2 (U2) and one XP-L HI V3
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and the tails: Nitecore EA11, Nitecore MH20, Nitecore MH20GT and Nitecore EC4
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Tint:

The tint is coolwhite but slightly neutral compared to the MH20. The spill of the MH20 is little bluish. As shown at the picture below, the EC4 has a greenish tint.

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Beamprofile:

The deeper reflector creates a narrower beam compared to the MH20, with a clear hotspot and tiny until medium corona. The fact that the hotspot is a rather big one and there's enough spill, will make this light suited for a lot of tasks. The beam is clean, without defects. No PWM at any mode, good point!

Beamshots:

Let's start with projecting the MH20GT at a white wall. Shown at first: the five normal modes, followed by a GIF. Distance to the wall about 0,75 meter.

Camera settings: ISO100, WB daylight, F/2.7, 1/125 sec, 35mm
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GIF-picture
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Both MH20's together, the MH20 on the left side. Clearly visible here the difference of the beamprofiles, due to the deeper reflector of the MH20GT.

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Going outside now…..At first, the five output modes. I compared the output modes of the two MH20-members directly to each other, so I'll show you GIF-pictures here.

Camera settings: ISO100, WB daylight, F/2.7, 4.0 sec, 35mm
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The MH20 against the MH20GT and the Nitecore EC4
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a "throw-shot" of the MH20 and MH20GT. Distance across the other side of the river about 150 meters
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a​ shoot-out in the forest, both lights at Turbo:
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poiting at a tree-line, look at the difference between the profiles
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Conclusion:

The GT is a nice addition to the MH20. It is impressive that a light that is so compact can reach this distance. Above that, the MH20-series of Nitecore is (not only for me, I guess) one of the best and most complete single-18650 lights at the market. Very good built and finished, and good and equipped with an innovative interface. A built-in magnet in the tailcap and an extra mode between lower and low would make a light like this almost perfect.

Which one of the two would I pick? To be honest, I like both lights….and except the beamprofile and the MH20GT's head that little longer, they're almost equal. Go for the MH20 if you need a smooth beam at shorter distance, and pick the GT-version if you need a impressive searchlight that fits in your pants pocket.

Nitecore MH20GT provided for review
 
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BLUE LED

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I perfer the MH20GT version. It's a really nice pocket thrower.
 

recDNA

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I have the GT. I find it a little too big to be comfortable for EDC. It certainly fits in a pocket fine but if you do any squatting or sitting the wide head sticks in your leg. I'll stick to the 62w in my pocket and throw the GT in my jacket. It's worth carrying if I KNOW I will need a throwy flashlight.
 

mico

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Great comparison shots. Really good to see the MH20 brighter spill and width. The EC4 seems to be both combined!
 

Wendee

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Thank you for this great review!

I was eyeing the MH20 for our off grid camp location, then they announced the MH20GT. I thought the GT version would be better to spot bears/wolves at a distance but now that I see how powerful that beam is (wow), I think I might blind myself when it hits nearby trees.

I'm totally new to "good" flashlights and have never had a "thrower" so maybe I'm totally wrong but I think the MH20 would be better for use in the woods. I wish that I could afford to buy both versions, the GT model is impressive!

Your review was very helpful, especially the comparison shots. Thanks again! :)
 

rickypanecatyl

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Good comparison shots!

Any thoughts/experience with the "waterproofness" of the rubber covered charging port? I've always found nitecore to be a bit above average in the IPX claims and a bit below average in reality...
 

Artivideo

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Hi KJ75 : very impressive review. Where can you buy this GT version in The Netherlands besides ledscherp.nl ?

If i look at the picture with the beamshot across the river it looks that the GT (look at the spil on the lawn) is more neutral than the MH20 right ? Therefore there will be probably not a neutral white version what do you think KJ75 ? edit : looking at the picture I see that the letters in the top are also more yellow in the GT picture thus it is an artifact in the picture !!
 
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recDNA

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Thank you for this great review!

I was eyeing the MH20 for our off grid camp location, then they announced the MH20GT. I thought the GT version would be better to spot bears/wolves at a distance but now that I see how powerful that beam is (wow), I think I might blind myself when it hits nearby trees.

I'm totally new to "good" flashlights and have never had a "thrower" so maybe I'm totally wrong but I think the MH20 would be better for use in the woods. I wish that I could afford to buy both versions, the GT model is impressive!

Your review was very helpful, especially the comparison shots. Thanks again! :)
The GT would be better in fields than dense woods. Of course you do have lower output levels to prevent the blinding effect you speak of. I'm thinking of adding a diffuser for close up work but really I have many other flashlights better suited to close up work. My Zebralight sc62w is perfect in dense woods or small clearnings but useless for spotting things 100 yards away.
 

daffie

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Great review...thank you! I purchased my MH20GT from Nitecore.co.uk and it arrived today. Very happy with it. Really like the tighter hotspot compared to my regular MH20.

Something I noticed though...the hotspot has a yellow spot (the LED?) just off-center of the hotspot. It's clearly visible. My regular MH20 does not have this and I must assume it's because of the different type LED the MH20GT uses. Any idea's on this? Is this normal or to be considered a defect? It's definitely not a huge issue for me personally, however it is a bit annoying. Want to make sure everything is as it should be.

Cheers for any input :) (and best regards from Den Haag)
 
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BLUE LED

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I have 18 x XP-L HI torches and the yellow in the beam is fairly normal. Sometimes there is a slightly yellow in the middle. It doesn't bother me in the slightest.
 

daffie

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Cheers for that! Good to know it's completely normal :)

Great torch the MH20(GT).
 

daffie

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I did 2 tests to see how both fare regarding burn times on Turbo and High (Nitecore 3400mAh) from 100 to completely off.

MH20
Turbo : 2h
High : 2h40

MH20GT
Turbo : 2h20
High : 2h45
 

SG Hall

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I did 2 tests to see how both fare regarding burn times on Turbo and High (Nitecore 3400mAh) from 100 to completely off.

MH20
Turbo : 2h
High : 2h40

MH20GT
Turbo : 2h20
High : 2h45

Thanks for that info. Puzzling though, when Nitecore only claim 1hr on turbo for the GT.
 

recDNA

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Manufacturers often simply divide max amp draw into battery label capacity to get a runtime number. Totally inaccurate of course.

I'd be very curious to know the amp draw on a couple of primaries in turbo. I would guess dangerously high.
 

daffie

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Thanks for that info. Puzzling though, when Nitecore only claim 1hr on turbo for the GT.

Doing a second test atm, just to make sure :)

Now after 1 hour on turbo both the MH20 and MH20GT are still at the same intensity level (purely by eye...I have no other measurement options).

Will let you know in approx 1 hour...

Btw Holy Moly...over 8 hours charging time for 2x 3400 mAh batteries! (Nitecore digicharger D2)
 

KeepingItLight

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Something I noticed though...the hotspot has a yellow spot (the LED?) just off-center of the hotspot.

My Nitecore P12GT has a similar yellow spot dead center in its hot spot.

A search with the three words yellow hot spot brought up several relevant threads. The post quoted below gives a good summary of the explanation. I enjoyed the other posts in the thread, as well. Some of them get pretty technical.

As you read through the thread, note that some posters miss the point. They write about the yellow/green corona that is common with Cree emitters, failing to understand that a yellow spot in the center of an otherwise white hot spot is the issue under discussion. You can't blame them. Obviously, they are not seeing any yellow spots!

Assuming that your die is flat and the phosphor layer is uniform in thickness, you would expect a bluer color from the light that's passing through the phosphor layer perpendicular to the phosphor plane. Light exiting at high angles (more parallel) to the plane will have to pass through much more of the yellow phosphor material and result in a yellower tint.

The yellow light that exits sideways from the emitter is the light that strikes the reflector. That light is then focused in the hot spot. The bluer light that exits straight out of the emitter never hits the reflector. It becomes the spill.

One way to eliminate the yellow spot is to blur the focus. I discussed this in a post in the P12GT thread. The following is an excerpt.

Just got mine and to me the center spot has a yellowish tint, doesn't seem like most others look that way. perhaps a defect?

The center of the hot spot on my Nitecore P12GT is yellow, too. That's on a (mostly) white wall, at a distance of about 4 meters.

I have a vague recollection that some owners reported the same thing for their BLF Kronos X6 flashlight. Or, it might have been the BLF Kronos X5. Both of them use the Cree XP-L HI emitter.

Edit: Just found it.

In post #5268 of the X6 thread at BLF, will34 writes, "Normally a yellow spot in the center of the beam means that the LED is too far up the reflector and needs to be lowered, or in this case the reflector has to be raised a tiny bit, less than 1mm."

Later on, in post #5271, ToyKeeper writes the following:

The XP-L HI has much more even tint distribution than a domed emitter, but it's not 100% perfectly distributed. It still leaks more yellow out to the sides than it does to the front. So, it's pretty much guaranteed that the hotspot will be a bit more yellow than the rest of the beam. Not as much as with older emitters, usually, but the effect is still somewhat visible.

To reduce it, you will probably need to fine-tune the focus yourself — both centering and depth. IIRC, this process was already discussed within the last 50 posts or so, if you'd like more information.

I've had distinct spots in the beam even from premium brands like Zebralight. One nice thing about these BLF lights is that we can open it up and fix it.

Unfortunately, I do not think you or I will be able to adjust the reflector focus of the P12GT. According to the review by DBCustom, the head is glued shut with red Loctite.

Edit #2:

In post #5551, djozz writes this about the BLF Kronos X5:

So I went ahead and sanded the reflector a little bit shorter, I even got it as far that, with the light on, I could screw it from out of focus through correct focus to out of focus again, while watching the hot spot on the wall at six meters. And my assumption was correct, at the best focus point (which was the reflector height when stock, well done!), the yellow hot spot-center was most apparent. So there's no fix for it by adjusting the focus (at least not in my copy), unless you want to sacrifice the nice tight focus of the X5.

Evidently, the yellow center may not be all bad. At least in the case djozz reports, it was a symptom of sharp focus. A slightly worse focus eliminated the yellow spot by blending the beam, but only at the expense of decreased beam intensity.

In post #5754, ToyKeeper reinforces this idea.

The yellow can be a little annoying on some units. One of mine had a distinct yellow "comma" just off the center of the hotspot. The emitter was visibly a bit off center, too. I re-centered the emitter and fine-tuned the depth of the reflector, and it made the beam much nicer and measurably more intense. Afterward it had a soft yellowish ball at the center, blending smoothly into the whiter edges of the hotspot.

My other one has an even better focus and a soft yellowish dot dead-center. Its lux measures a little higher too.

When I de-focused it, the yellow blurred out and went away… but the lux went down too. So as far as I can tell, a creamy center is a sign of a well-focused beam.

My XinTD C8 has a similar effect, though the yellow area is wider and more blended. It looks more like there is a white circle at the outer edges of the hotspot, with warmer shades both inside and outside… and the outside has four perfect, distinct flower petals.

I think we should consider our yellow hot spots to be marks of distinction. Our lights have the best possible focus!
 
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