Nitecore P25 (XM-L U2, 1x18650 2xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIME, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO +
- Thread starter selfbuilt
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Darn it, I like this light but it seems I lost the 'lottery', and I don't mean the tint lottery.
With the various reviews and owner pics about, it appears that the orientation of the tailcap relative to the side switch is random. Unfortunately, my copy has the same orientation as Selfbuilt's review copy. In the pic where he's holding it, you can see that in the reverse grip, his pinky has a hard time reaching the side switch. I was hoping to be able to orient the light so I could trigger the rear switch with my thumb and the side switch with my pinky, and I'm a righty, so the gun goes in the right hand, the flashlight in the left. When held so my pinky can reach the side switch easily, my thumb is right on the 'wings' that prevent accidental activation of the rear clicky.
If I were a lefty, this would be perfect because when holding the light in my right hand, my thumb goes right between the wings to the rear clicky, and my pinky rests on the side switch.
The other downside is, after checking he threads on both the head and tail, they're both single helix and made so that they can only screw on in one orientation and will ALWAYS end up at the exact same angle when tightened. Some units evidently have the threading at a different orientation that results in the wings being at a different offset. I could loosen the head a little to change the angle of the offset between the wing tabs and the side switch, but I don't like the idea of the head being a little loose. It's not possible to loosen the tailcap as those threads are anodized and will lockout the light. Now if they had made the light using dual helix threads, instead of single helix, you could unscrew the tailcap and turn it 180 degrees before screwing it back on and the orientation could be flipped 180 degrees, which would allow for lefty or righty use.
I DO like this light in general, but that one problem significantly reduces the ease of User Interface. I can see why Grizzlyb recommends lights with NO side switches, as this would never be a problem for a rear switch only light. This was also the reason I avoided lights like the Sunwayman V11R, as it requires changing grips to turn the light On and then switch between brightnesses/modes.
The 4/7's QPA-G2 that I EDC allows me to turn the light On with my thumb, switch modes, and if I want Turbo, I hold the head with my pinky and twist the body with my thumb and forefinger, and I can also then trigger the strobe with my thumb. If I know I'll be using the strobe, I twist the body while drawing the light and turn it on and trigger the strobe with 2 presses.
A tailcap dual-stage switch in this light combining the interface here and from ZL might be a great solution, if the button was on the tail. Quick half press for Turbo mode (fast activation to brightest mode), more quick half presses to cycle through brightnesses. Long half press to start in Low. Quick full press to start in Strobe mode (that way, under high stress, you can trigger the tactical strobe by mashing the button). That IMO, would be a great interface for a tactical light.
Max
P.S. for anyone who HAS one of these, you can quickly trigger the tactical strobe from any steady brightness level (non-blinky mode) by holding a full press of the side switch. How do you go back to a steady light (non-blinky mode) from one of the blinky modes? From strobe, a half press cycles between SOS, beacon and back to strobe. A full press turns the light Off. Holding a full press also turns the light Off. The only method I've found was to use the side switch full press twice, which turns the light Off, then back On in whatever brightness was last used before the strobe was triggered.
With the various reviews and owner pics about, it appears that the orientation of the tailcap relative to the side switch is random. Unfortunately, my copy has the same orientation as Selfbuilt's review copy. In the pic where he's holding it, you can see that in the reverse grip, his pinky has a hard time reaching the side switch. I was hoping to be able to orient the light so I could trigger the rear switch with my thumb and the side switch with my pinky, and I'm a righty, so the gun goes in the right hand, the flashlight in the left. When held so my pinky can reach the side switch easily, my thumb is right on the 'wings' that prevent accidental activation of the rear clicky.
If I were a lefty, this would be perfect because when holding the light in my right hand, my thumb goes right between the wings to the rear clicky, and my pinky rests on the side switch.
The other downside is, after checking he threads on both the head and tail, they're both single helix and made so that they can only screw on in one orientation and will ALWAYS end up at the exact same angle when tightened. Some units evidently have the threading at a different orientation that results in the wings being at a different offset. I could loosen the head a little to change the angle of the offset between the wing tabs and the side switch, but I don't like the idea of the head being a little loose. It's not possible to loosen the tailcap as those threads are anodized and will lockout the light. Now if they had made the light using dual helix threads, instead of single helix, you could unscrew the tailcap and turn it 180 degrees before screwing it back on and the orientation could be flipped 180 degrees, which would allow for lefty or righty use.
I DO like this light in general, but that one problem significantly reduces the ease of User Interface. I can see why Grizzlyb recommends lights with NO side switches, as this would never be a problem for a rear switch only light. This was also the reason I avoided lights like the Sunwayman V11R, as it requires changing grips to turn the light On and then switch between brightnesses/modes.
The 4/7's QPA-G2 that I EDC allows me to turn the light On with my thumb, switch modes, and if I want Turbo, I hold the head with my pinky and twist the body with my thumb and forefinger, and I can also then trigger the strobe with my thumb. If I know I'll be using the strobe, I twist the body while drawing the light and turn it on and trigger the strobe with 2 presses.
A tailcap dual-stage switch in this light combining the interface here and from ZL might be a great solution, if the button was on the tail. Quick half press for Turbo mode (fast activation to brightest mode), more quick half presses to cycle through brightnesses. Long half press to start in Low. Quick full press to start in Strobe mode (that way, under high stress, you can trigger the tactical strobe by mashing the button). That IMO, would be a great interface for a tactical light.
Max
P.S. for anyone who HAS one of these, you can quickly trigger the tactical strobe from any steady brightness level (non-blinky mode) by holding a full press of the side switch. How do you go back to a steady light (non-blinky mode) from one of the blinky modes? From strobe, a half press cycles between SOS, beacon and back to strobe. A full press turns the light Off. Holding a full press also turns the light Off. The only method I've found was to use the side switch full press twice, which turns the light Off, then back On in whatever brightness was last used before the strobe was triggered.
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RGB_LED
Enlightened
As usual, thank you for a great review selfbuilt. I guess USB charging is a pretty good idea from a convenience perspective especially when you're traveling and only have to bring along a micro-USB cord instead of a full-size 18650 charger.
That said, I was wondering about the USB2.0 charging limits. I don't usually charge my android phone through my laptop USB port due to the 0.5A limit. Instead, I use the included 1A USB transformer that can be connected to AC directly to charge my phone and they have an output of 1A which charges the phone much faster. I'm wondering if using that would reduce the charging time. Or, would it be limited by the charging circuit in the light itself? Have you tried using one of these instead?
That said, I was wondering about the USB2.0 charging limits. I don't usually charge my android phone through my laptop USB port due to the 0.5A limit. Instead, I use the included 1A USB transformer that can be connected to AC directly to charge my phone and they have an output of 1A which charges the phone much faster. I'm wondering if using that would reduce the charging time. Or, would it be limited by the charging circuit in the light itself? Have you tried using one of these instead?
That's what I did as well, to exit from the strobe. Not sure if there is anything else, other than an off-on cycle.
Yeah, this question comes up a lot. I would expect it would all depend on the charging circuitry - your phone can adjust to the 1A transformer because it is designed to. My Rofis TR31C is the only light I've tested so far that has this kind of dual functionality. For a USB-only device, it would probably remain limited to the USB specs, no matter how you connected it.
This would be a good question to bring up in the batteries and electronics subforum, as one of the experts there might be able to provide more info. Personally, I would be wary of plugging a charger into a transformer it was not designed to work with.
picrthis
Enlightened
Just recieved mine today and I love the light but I'm not a fan of the holster....what does the two of yours look like? any pics of the holsters? I don't know if I have the correct holster or the wrong one some reported on......Thanks
That's definitely the wrong holster for this light. Here's how my sample fits:
picrthis
Enlightened
This is the one I just recieved, I'm not happy that the bottom of the light is exposed and would get scraped-up that way; also had t o push the light in real hard to get it to even go in as far as shown in the picture.....the one the EC25 uses doesn't any of these issues.
thedoc007
Flashlight Enthusiast
I ordered from FT as well, it came with the short/tight holster. Submitted a ticket, and they sent ANOTHER copy of the wrong one, despite the fact that I submitted pics of the wrong one and explained precisely how the fit was wrong. Franky, I am disappointed more by the service than by the actual holster, after wedging in one a bunch of times it loosened a little bit and is now at least marginally usable. But the service is another issue, if you have a known specific issue with fit and you still don't bother to actually test what you send, you are definitely not adequately caring for your customers.
picrthis
Enlightened
This is actually Nitecore's fault NOT the Vendor, Yes I'll have to go through the vendor to get a replacement holster I'm sure BUT Nitecore wants to act like a high name brand flashlight maker, and yet this shows that packaging this holster with this light, just makes them yet another Chinese wanna be, I'm NOT impressed by Nitecore LACK of QA....you want play with the big boys you need to better QA.
That's definitely a better holster. I have the one pictured below and REALLY don't like it. The light fits extremely tight in it, and is difficult to draw. Forget about drawing it quickly. Why are there so many different holsters?That's definitely the wrong holster for this light. Here's how my sample fits:
This is the one I just recieved, I'm not happy that the bottom of the light is exposed and would get scraped-up that way; also had t o push the light in real hard to get it to even go in as far as shown in the picture.....the one the EC25 uses doesn't any of these issues.
picrthis
Enlightened
Yes I'm *VERY* unhappy with Nitecore's "Quality Holster" included :scowl:
buds224
Enlightened
Decided to swap my first un-closable P25 holster with my XT11 holster. Both lights fit better in the swap. The 2nd P25 holster I received, with the open bottom, will be packed away.
thedoc007
Flashlight Enthusiast
Nitecore may have shipped the wrong holster with their lights originally, and yes, that is definitely Nitecore's fault. But when I submit a help ticket through a vendor, and they send a holster that does not fit, especially after I submit pics and explain the problem, that is very clearly 100% the vendor's problem. Customer service is responsible...if they said Nitecore had shipped the wrong ones, and I would have to wait for a while for the vendor to get the right holster, that would have been ok. But when they assure me that the correct one will ship, and send me the exact same holster again, that is no longer on Nitecore. You have to actually listen to your customers...
Grumpy1
Newly Enlightened
Just received my P25 from FT today. 
THe best light i've bought so far. Big improvement over my Solarforce. I like the 2 button system over cycling throw the modes every time. Can't wait to take it out in the dark tonight.
On a side not i received the hole in bottom holster with mine. Not the greatest but at least i didn't receive that tiny holster.
THe best light i've bought so far. Big improvement over my Solarforce. I like the 2 button system over cycling throw the modes every time. Can't wait to take it out in the dark tonight. On a side not i received the hole in bottom holster with mine. Not the greatest but at least i didn't receive that tiny holster.
Thanks for doing such a great review, not been to CPF for a long time, but your review and others of the P25 have me convinced it's a great replacement for my Inova X5 that's a classic but a bit underpowered by today's standards.
@holylight loving that lanyard, is there a guide anywhere on how to tie them?
@holylight loving that lanyard, is there a guide anywhere on how to tie them?
Grumpy1
Newly Enlightened
Can anybody recommend a proper holster for this light? The holy version doesn't really fit the light properly either, hard to get back out. :thumbsdow The solarforce holster i have is a bit to short for it.
AbnInfantry
Newly Enlightened
The Nitecore P25 fits fine inside my Maxpedition 5-inch flashlight sheath.
picrthis
Enlightened
Contact them again, your experience is a lot different that mine experience was after contacting them; in-fact they responded MUCH faster than a popular domestic retailer does that I have been trying to work with on other issues.
