Nitecore PD design explained/with pics

Lighthouse one

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I got my EX 10 today...and like many others was a bit confused trying to operate the UI. After a while I did what any good flashaholic does: take it apart ! Now I understand the design, and what to do to easily operate the UI.

This is the Button tube, and the head assy. The tube holds the battery and the whole tube moves when you push on the button!

ex01.jpg


The tension comes from 3 sources: First the most tension is from the spring in the bottom of the battery tube. Next, the o ring around the tube, and last, the brass ring around the head compresses to make contact with the internal electronics. See next pic!



ex02.jpg



Note the brass ring. This must be compressed fully to operate the UI . When you press the button, you are compressing this ring. It is important that the ring be pushed fulled down. What this means is that it's more important to press firmly on the button, than quickly. It is especially so, when trying to make the jump to high or low mode after the light is on.

Here is a close up of the tube engaging the brass ring.

ex04.jpg



Now a photo showing the brass ring depressed.

ex05.jpg



To reduce the tension...take the tube out and clean it. Use gun oil or something very light to relube the o ring and body. This is just so you can practice with the UI with less tension.

The battery also can cause more tension if it is longer than a primary 123.

OK_ put it together.
Ramping. Turn the light on. After a few seconds-just press and hold the button...no double pushes ! Just push and hold when on. Now the ramping switches from up to down every other cycle.....so, If the light is on full-and doesn't ramp...It might be trying to ramp up...so- do a quick release and push hold.
Once you get to a middle level, let go. Now the level is saved. From the middle, you can practice going up and down...just push-hold after the light is on.

Jumping to Full power or min power. THis is where you need to understand the brass ring operation! You do not need to push real fast! It's more important to push firmly all the way in!

Minimum- With the light on anywhere but min...push and release twice! DO it quickly, but not at super speed! It's important to make the brass ring compress fully. Too slow or too fast will not work...

Max power. With the light on anywhere but max, push the button twice and hold the second push in. THe light doesn't go max until after the double push...and a 1/2 second hold. THis requires a bit more practice, as it is easy to not keep the pressure on the button after you do the double push!

All of these instructions are for when the head is tightened down fully, and NOT in the momentary mode ( head loose).

You can also take the o ring off to get a little bit more tension reduction for practice. Most of the tension is from the battery spring in the tube.

This sounds more difficult than it is, but reducing the tension really helps make it easier to practice. Good Luck!!
 
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Thanks for the excellent review and explanation on how the activation of the MCU works. I didn't realize until seeing this that the piston actually pushes the brass ring down. I've been planning on lubing the EX10 as it seems to be a bit stiffer than the D10 and was glad to see someone else tried a different and presumably lighter lube. I'm planning on the light PTFE lube that seems to make everything turn easier and glide smoother with all I've tried it on.
 
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:D.. Lighthouse one ,

That is a very well written explanation with proper proceedures.

It should help many people.


(You might also want to include the proceedure for getting to the min/max short-cut .... while the light is OFF ... with the head tightened.)

very well done ....... TMG :)
 
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Does this type of switching mechanism provide any improvements over regular switches?

From the description, seems like this switching mechanism isn't waterproof cos when the brass sleeve is depressed, the oring shifts too.
 
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Splunk....wrong. It is very waterproof. THe tube slides a small distance in a very smooth barrel. Both parts mate well.
All of the switching is in the head. It should be a very reliable mechanism. Regular switches are a major reason for failure in many lights. Only time will tell, but the design seems very solid.
 
I don't really know why people didn't understand the concept from 4sevens original pictures but I guess I am maybe just more mechanically inclined.

In any case, good pictures, as they demonstrate the functionality of the PD design well.
 
Anyone know how the momentary been implemented by this system. I can understand how the piston made contact with the ring to change mode etc, but how does loosening the head prevents the light from staying on? I can actually change mode while having the head loosened.

Edit: I think I know now. Loosening the head disconnect the circuit loop and turns it into momentary.:thumbsup:
 
Anyone know how the momentary been implemented by this system. I can understand how the piston made contact with the ring to change mode etc, but how does loosening the head prevents the light from staying on? I can actually change mode while having the head loosened.

Edit: I think I know now. Loosening the head disconnect the circuit loop and turns it into momentary.:thumbsup:
Bingo! :)
 
One more question. If I have the head loosen - will the level of brightness in the memory reset after a while?

The brightness level will be stored in the eeprom & will remember it until it is changed no matter how long it is left without the battery connected.
 
Nice pics and demonstration Lighthouse! I wonder how many EX10/D10 lights will be at PF11. :)
 
Why does longer battery such as Trustfire 14500 with a nipple prevents UI from functioning? The light only works in twisty mode and will NOT latch on. Does the piston becomes too short to depress the brass ring fully?

- Vikas
 
Question:

I'm interested in the EX10 primarily for the momentary mode, but I'm afraid that some combination of clicks, presses, or mashes might inadvertently cause the light to ramp or jump to low.

Is this a possibility?
 
Does the PD design always require a electronic switch or microprocessor control? I don't like things that drain the battery when not in use (no matter how small). I know I can unscrew the tail to lock out, but I prefer clickies and would prefer to leave the Nitecore in that configuration.
 
Does the PD design always require a electronic switch or microprocessor control? I don't like things that drain the battery when not in use (no matter how small). I know I can unscrew the tail to lock out, but I prefer clickies and would prefer to leave the Nitecore in that configuration.
Don's PD does not have that tiny drain, but his light doesn't use a MCU.
Any MCU that has a software switch will have a tiny drain. Actually what
happens is every few microseconds it wakes up for a few microseconds
and checks on the switch but in between checking, it goes into deep sleep
and extreme energy conservation. If you think about it, you're running a
computer on a single AA for almost a year and a half.

Anyway, any light with a soft switch has to do it this way. Sorry, there is no
other way around. I would say if you're not carrying the light and you're
storing it for a while (on the shelf or in your luggage), then just give it a twist.
Otherwise, if its in your pocket, keep it tightened. If thats not working for
you just contact our customer service dept for a refund :)
 
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