Noctigon Meteor M43

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I like what Hanks doing too but I don't like the Chinese designers pretending to be consumers trying to defend the springs on an unbiased basis. It erks me.

So because they are sticking with these springs we can only use one type of cell in either version of the light. Its like they are designing the light around the springs for gods sake. It this a joke.

So my take is that V2 of the light has more limitations that V1. With V1 you can get around the springs by modding (like my photo or similar - replace springs) them so that both types of cells fit. But with V2 you cant use protected cells at all which is brilliant and you can as an added benefit maybe blow yourself up as an inexperienced unprotected cell user. Thumbs up for the brilliant fix, it sounds a bit Chinese to me.
 
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Heh, I will defend no flaw in my beloved flashlights.

M43 V1 springs: SUCK. :)
M43 V2 springs: don't know, don't have one (yet.)

Aside from that, the M43 is pretty spiffy, found no real problems yet.
 
Why would you buy a V2 to find out, it makes no sense to me as I have explained above. It makes sense returning the V1 for a V3 that allows you to use whatever cells you want. Its not rocket science all flashlights for the past decade have had no problems in engineering this feature. As I said its like they are designing their light around the non springy springs which is utterly butterly.
 
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I have found another issue with this light keep turbo on for a prolonged period of time and the glue around certain areas of the lens / optics starts to melt. It has as condensation like appearance which I see becoming an issue with continued use.
 
@state-of-the-art, all I ever did at BLF was state facts about my light. If you sensed frustration on my part over there, it had to do with them turning a blind eye to the problem. I wasn’t tearing down the light, I was just wanting to discuss the springs and felt I was getting the cold shoulder and felt I was being treated as a boat rocker. I also think that the subject hasn’t gotten enough discussion over here.

I didn’t get interested in this light until a couple of months ago and I attempted to read through as much info as I could and am sure I missed a page or two. Maybe it has been discussed and I missed it.

As far as my thoughts on why Hank and company made the decision to go the way they did on the springs, I said that I may be wrong about it. Thanks for clearing it up.
 
There's a couple of people here who I feel are trying to oust us too. I believe they are charading and are the Chinese designers of the light / springs. After all they didn't design the light a Russian did they just reengineered it for the commercial market and probably added the spring as their amazing design feature. They think theres a million bucks in marketing curled copper with no springiness. I'm just speculating though.

My two cents worth is 'change the springs in the M43' period. In fact offer all V1 owners a new spring MCPCB so that we can use the light to its fullest. We can then easily unscrew the old one and jobs a good one.

I dread to imagine anyone using this as a bike light or a security guard actually moving with it..... One bump in the night and no light ridiculous. Its like we on the R&D without first putting the theory into practice.

I want to point out again that contact resistance or thermal resistance between two metals plays a significant role in the flashlight circuit between the spring and the battery cathode. That's why we see in premium lights like HDS contact boards are used on the end of the springs even in low powered lights.
 
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On a different note, while reading up on this light, I noticed a few people breaking the lens and asking to get a replacement. Knowing me and my tendency to break an occasional lens, I decided to to be pro-active and I ordered some 60mm acrylic lenses for mine from flashlightlens.com. They are a little bit thicker but seem to work flawlessly.

IMG_0471_zpsp23caf2q.jpg
 
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You broke the glue free from the optics then. You went further into the light than me. Aside from the springs this is one of my favourite lights and I've sort of fixed it now anyway. Amazing job with the emitter board noctigon. On the prototype which I posted a picture (posts 405 and 406) of earlier the driver board was hand made by the russian chap, looks amazing. It had two more power chips meaning the LEDs would see 12A. Brilliant I bet it had a larger sink would of loved to be able to buy this hand made version at a premium.

Keep the pictures coming everyone. Its good to be able to see through a few CPFers windows.
 
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The optics and black plate are not glued in place on mine. The lens holds every thing together. No rattles at all. Maybe the melted glue thing is why they changed it. It seems like I remember someone mentioning the change to make it easier for modders to work with. Hmm.
 
Is there an O-ring between the glass lens and the bezel and between the glass lens and the black plastic thing. If not then thats why its smashing on impact. I mean if the glass is seated against anything metal without the protection of orings it will break very easily with a small impact.
 
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I just figured my optics were loose because Vinh needed to take them off during his modding.

Is there anyway to know if I have a V1 or V2? What are the tube length differences between the two?

Side note, Efest 18650 35A are working fine.
 
Yes, there is a red O-ring. Now that I think about it, the tolerances would have to be exceptionally tight for the lens to hold the optics in place and make good enough contact with the O-ring to ensure that it is water proof.
 
What did Vihn do to it have you got any pictures for us dssguy1? You would be able to tell by measuring the tube. Has there been definitive confirmation that there is a V2 or is it a rumour.

So there's no chance for the oring to be compromised and the glass to sit against the metal? I see the red oring on the head but is there one protecting the glass from the metal bezel?
 
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That black piece that separates the 4 optics is Metal, not plastic.

I can't remember for sure but I think the glass was pushing directly on the metal optics separator and the optics.

No o-ring that I can remember. I think if there was, the optics would wiggle around because they were pretty loose in there.
 
I had Vinh give it the Goldilocks treatment. 8 XPG2 pdtc + 4 S3 3D Dedome.

And all the heat sink extras like extra solder on driver, Arctic silver, complete thermal padding of driver.
 
If that's the case the glass lens is being crushed against the metal on the edges compromising its integrity severely. Its asking to be broken with a cherry on top. I'm sure you could put an oring between the glass and the metal black thing and between the glass and the bezel and that would further compress the optics in a good way.
I don't want to open mine I always get hairs and dust in there. Wish I had a semiconductor lab.

I see what you mean just looked and it would benefit from an oring under the bezel where the bezel is up against the glass on the inside of the bezel. So as you screwed down the bezel it would compress the onion ring on the top of the glass instead of the undrside of the metal bezel directly touching the glass.
 
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I don't want to open mine I always get hairs and dust in there. Wish I had a semiconductor lab.
Click to expand...
You could go into a very small room and start spraying water mist, attempting to grab the dust and drag it down. It's sort of a ghetto clean room.
 
There is no O-ring between the bezel and lens. When screwing and unscrewing the bezel, it glides against the lens.

My two battery tubes are 73.06mm and 73.011. The measurements vary slightly as you work around the diameter of the tube with calipers. If you are reading Hikelite, I have calipers now.:thumbsup:
 
It would greatly benefit from an oring between the lens and the bezel or on the other side where the black separator is. It seems at the moment the lens has no play so any shock will break the lens which is a nightmare. Problem is the oring will move/twist when twisting the bezel on the bezel side so no go, and might cause problems with seating of optics if placed between the black separator and the glass.

It would be ideal if there was a thin plastic spacer ring between the bezel and the glass and a proper oring beneath the lens for play.

Good idea with the acrylic lens though how much are they. Are they on Hanks account ;-)
 
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