Noctigon Meteor M43

Candle Power Flashlight Forum

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His numbers aren't final yet. VNX2 Goldilocks is right about to drop. 6%? He hasn't said that.
 
I think Giocomo was talking about his original mod which had no driver mods only heat sinking and spring bypass with 6% gain in ouput? It seems Vihn is using the V2 version of the light which can only use non protected batteries.
 
Discussion has been wild I see. I can't speak from experience with this light but I find it strange if significant improvements can be gained using spring bypasses (or such). As far as I know, the current springs were chosen in order to get minimal losses. Conductivity first, elasticity second.

fnsooner said:
First thing, I am not a modder and would never attempt to solder and resolder on the original springs/board for fear a ruining my 200 dollar light. So, I have a couple of spring and board assemblies being shipped to me. I am thinking maybe trying to install a traditional spring with a smaller diameter inside of the original spring. Hopefully this would give the original springs some support and keep the batteries from jarring loose from the contacts at the head. It might even accidentally help with strengthening the contact point of the spring to the battery. Any flaws to my plan?
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Spring travel will become shorter. The new springs should be rather strong (at least close to as strong as the original ones, preferably stronger). They don't necessarily prevent the deforming of original springs but if they are strong enough, they will lift them up again (adding new springs doesn't affect the amount of compression, just the force needed for it).

Regarding my original questions, I did contact Hank and he told that the protected cells don't fit any more. However, there are some older (longer) battery tubes still available and I could get the light with one upon request. I guess that is what I will be ordering.

So, no recommendations/suggestions regarding the protected batteries? Or good dealers that sell them (internationally)? :poke:
 
LOL!

vinhnguyen54 said:


I found the dual springs design above to be superior to the regular wire attachment design. I will use this design more where I can. Cost will be up a tiny bit for the extra work and costs of springs but its worth it.
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Muahaha! The soon-to-be-available M43 Goldilocks shall have dual springs! It will be miiiiiiiiine! :) :)
 
I feel like we're bored and reached a glass ceiling in performance...so we're talking about springs. I was somewhat critical about the M43 but really had no real problems with it.
 
This is what my double spring idea is trying to remedy.


It has nothing to do with eeking out more lumens. I am happy with the maximum output of my stock Meteor.
 
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Damn that's ridiculous. I didn't try that on mine, so I guess I wouldn't have known about it since I no longer have it. I had a fenix E11 that did that; very annoying.
 
Double spring looks pretty good there I'll admit. Let's see your finished product then.

Can't believe someone is talking about how good the springs are again. Where have they been.

When your shocking the light with that much force (so it loses connection) fnsooner make sure youve got your acrylic lens in or it might break the standard glass lens :-(
 
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The spare spring MCPCBs are on the slow boat from China(I hope) and may take a few weeks. I will gather the springs and soldering supplies before then and may take a whack at the originals. We’ll see.
 
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Here's another one that looks quite nice.

20151011_221516_zpsfqcbqtwn.jpg


Hope he didn't do all these last night.

I've got no spring in my step any more.
 
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fnsooner said:
This is what my double spring idea is trying to remedy.


It has nothing to do with eeking out more lumens. I am happy with the maximum output of my stock Meteor.
Click to expand...


Ok, this looks pretty stupid. However, wouldn't it be quite a bit easier to solve this problem by adding one wide and stiff spring in the middle of the whole board?
 
Esko said:
However, wouldn't it be quite a bit easier to solve this problem by adding one wide and stiff spring in the middle of the whole board?
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Possibly. The problem I see with this is that if you put a spring in the middle, you would need to support all four batteries and that support would be on the wrapper part of the cell. Probably not ideal and I am not sure that it would be easier. Either way, I think the most difficult thing is to find the ideal size springs. Once everything is gathered up, the actual solder job shouldn’t be too bad.
 
markr6 said:
Damn that's ridiculous. I didn't try that on mine, so I guess I wouldn't have known about it since I no longer have it. I had a fenix E11 that did that; very annoying.
Click to expand...

Yeah, the light is almost perfect except for this. This whole ordeal reminds me of the joke about the man that goes to the doctor and says “When I raise my arm like this, it hurts." The doctor responds “Well, don’t raise your arm like that."
 
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219BT-V1.....4450 Lumens | 20,000cd | 4885K | 90+ CRI
219C............6700 Lumens | 29,000cd | 5000K | 80+ CRI
(not too far behind the S3 3D version!)
XP-G2 S3 3D..7010 Lumens | 32,000cd | 4885K

dayumn!

As critical as I was with the M43, this almost makes me want to drop another $200. Crazy addiction. Shouldn't have given up heroin.
 
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Anyone actually test the output of the s3-3D yet? I may need to recalibrate my measuring device because I did a quick test the other night and I was reading a bit higher than it should.
 
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mtn electonics just blew thru 7 M43's pretty quick. Obviously some were waiting to get one!
 
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