Noctigon Meteor M43

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I also find it odd that in a place that dissects and analyses and scrutinizes every little aspect of a flashlight, that a flashlight that can turns off on its own while using it, is no big deal and not a significant topic for discussion.


I have told myself a dozen times that I was going to toil away on my own to try and fix this problem and not drone on about it, but then someone makes a comment where I feel I am being trivialized and I feel compelled to respond.

mhanlen, I will respond to all your questions. I worked a twelve hour day yesterday and am heading out the door for another. Cheers.



Me too. Don't bother I deleted it. I have said as much a million times. We don't need to address our problems any further.
 
:popcorn::popcorn::popcorn:

Take some advice from a wise old CPFer, stop bitching so much!!!!

It puts members off you and you might get banned for good.

Greta is NUMERO UNO.


CHEERS
 
Finally. The thread become so agressive and non productive that I decided to stop reading it. I'm happy to hear that everything is back to civil now.

The meteor is a great light, but you have to keep in mind the restrictions, which are a direct result of the extreme measures taken to get that size and power into that envelope. So yeah, it's not as rugged as others, its not a gun light and it should not be dropped. While the last is true for all lights in general, many will survive dropping much easier than the meteor.

If the light is uses as intended with the batteries recommended we can have a lot of fun.
 
Just curious....I replied to one of his posts where he is showing lux meter differences between stock and modified M43's. In that video, his
lux meter registered between 1264 stock, and roughly 1360 lux modified. I have that same lux meter and with my Skyray King - 9 cree xmls , I am registering 1500+ lux by bouncing the light back to the meter sensor from 2 feet away off of white wall. I really want the M 43 and I know it is of far superior quality than the Skyray but, it's hard to justify the expense if the M43 will not give me higher output then my Skyray's. Can you or anyone else possibly let me know if I will see visibly higher output from the M43 than I see from my Skyray's? I have a jpg of these readings with the Skyray but do not have a url where I could post it to then attach. Thanks ahead of time for any replies.
 
please don't crosspost. Our question has been answered in the other thread.

You just can't compare Lux readings that way.
 
UH....didn't mean to offend anyone, just trying to find out if the M43 will output more visible light than my Skyray. I have not been able to
find any posts comparing these two. Have you had any experience with these two lights and if so, will the M4r3 blow away the Skyray is visible output?
 
UH....didn't mean to offend anyone, just trying to find out if the M43 will output more visible light than my Skyray. I have not been able to
find any posts comparing these two. Have you had any experience with these two lights and if so, will the M4r3 blow away the Skyray is visible output?
Unfortunately, there's rather a lot of M43 variants at this time (counting the modded ones.) It's hard to give a definitive answer.

Do you have any idea how many lumensish it outputs? I have a 3 xml2 skyray and it kills it.
XM-L2 x 12 should beat the pants off 3x XM-L2.
 
Yeah I know... But by how much? Some of those multi emitter lights have terrible drivers. This question cant be answered in any sort of way, if you haven't done measurements or one hasn't been reviewed. There are way too many sky Ray variants out there. My 3xml2 skyray does about mid 2000 ish lumens.
 
V54 official numbers:
Noctigon M43vn XPL HI S3 : 7400/7280
Noctigon M43vn XPG2 S3 3D: 6340/6150
Noctigon M43vn XPL HI S3 : 7400/7280
Noctigon M43vn Mule XHP70 NW N2 E3: 5600/5470
Note that this is stock driver. The current boosted driver isn't quite ready yet, we can expect bigger lumens from it as we're going from 8 amps to 12 amps.

Hey, grab it if you want it. I already have one, but will get another with the boosted driver just to do side-by-sides.

Edit: If you're after the biggest lumens there can be, you're not getting it out of a light this size and need to step up the size category to get 10k+ 15k+ lumens.

AFAIK, M43 is currently one of the biggest punches packed in a small container, and it's only going to get better.
 
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No.....I don't have any way to measure the lumens other than I know the sellers claim of 12,000 is greatly exaggerated. I have the 4 led, 6 led and 9 led Skyrays... they all put out a decent amount of light.....the 6 led actually seems to appear brighter close than the 9 but it is focused to more of a flood where the 9 is a tighter beam and has a better throw. As I said before, I know the M43 is far better quality wise but, as popular as the Sky's seem to be, I would have thought that someone would have done a comparison between these two. Oh well...will keep looking....I do appreciate the help here though....thanks for taking the time to respond.
 
Couldn't tell ya, but here it is next to a Nichia Noctigon triple from mtn electronics. The Nichia is just to the left of the meteor. It's a pretty neutral white. I don't think I've read disappointment in the overall neutralness of it.

57453b534272c1935d04f1c60ffdd4a9.jpg
Appreciate the photo!
 
OK, I received an assortment of springs from Mountain Electronics and tried a couple of different sizes. Spring B are the ones to get. It doesn’t completely eliminate the problem of the light shutting off on its own when tapped on the tail, but I have to go to about an inch drop before I can duplicate the problem. If the M43 did this good originally, I would have probably never noticed this characteristic.

I squeezed the dual springs and could not tell that there was any binding or that one interfered with the other. I think I will leave them alone without solder for now.

So I have got the spring situation sorted to my satisfaction and have both my Meteors fitted with acrylic lenses. I think it is time to put them to work.

I have one more mod I am going to do when the parts come in. Can’t wait.

Here are some pics.
IMG_0475_zpsmymuhykn.jpg


IMG_0477_zpse4djual7.jpg


Also, I purchased the white on August 19th and the tan one on September 24th and my eyes can’t see any discernable difference in the length of my battery tubes. I wonder if I have V1 or V2. Oh well, not important in my case
IMG_0474_zpsf0ephnas.jpg
 
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If this has the same resistance than the stock springs, then this would be a way better solution than the solder massacre presented some pages before. If resistance has gone up this will impact efficiency (but not necessarily output with full batteries).
 
Oops, sorry I didn't clarify. Those are the original springs with some traditional springs inserted inside for some support. This was done solely to address the issue of the light shutting off when the tail is tapped. I haven't determined if I have helped the resistance issue. It couldn't hurt.

It may sound strange coming from someone on this site, but I am happy with the maximum output of the stock Meteor. I am trying to make a utility user out of this thing and probably won't use max much.
 
I've found a little "problem" with the M43: if the batteries are not fresh off the charger, it doesn't take too much time before the light will not allow turbo, or even the 4A high in UI2. I've charged the batteries on Monday, flashed turbo a few times, and used low and medium modes for not more than 20 minutes, and it is already giving me the warning signal (two flashes) when I try to activate the higher high or turbo. I checked it with my light meter, the output is now the same on high and turbo, only a little brighter than high 1 (2A). Probably this has more to do with the batteries not being able to output that much current if the voltage is not at max. Still, the switch is not even green yet. Maybe this has been discussed before, but I wonder if a 2S2P battery configuration would have (at least partly) solved this problem.
 
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and it is already giving me the warning signal (two flashes)

Mine did that the other day. It was sitting on the table and would double flash every few seconds or so. I checked the voltage on the batteries and they all read 4.0VDC . I went ahead and charged the batteries. I have tried to duplicate the scenario but haven’t been able to.
 
Mine did that the other day. It was sitting on the table and would double flash every few seconds or so. I checked the voltage on the batteries and they all read 4.0VDC . I went ahead and charged the batteries. I have tried to duplicate the scenario but haven’t been able to.

I charged the batteries today. When I put them in the charger it showed 4.1 volts on each! and the light still thought it was not enough for turbo. I wonder if 4.35 volt batteries would be better suited for the M43.
 
I charged the batteries today. When I put them in the charger it showed 4.1 volts on each! and the light still thought it was not enough for turbo. I wonder if 4.35 volt batteries would be better suited for the M43.
Currently no 4.35V are high drain, if you want you can use HKJ's comparator to see they are no match for serious drain cells, HE2, HE4, HG2, VTV5, 30Q whic are all 4.2V cells. The 4.35V caells have no advantage as they sag more at already only 5A, than those cells I mentioned before. Any 3400mAh cells is most likely based on the NCR18650B which is a really bad cells in terms of high current, I believe it would be a waste of time to even try to argue on the NCR18650B matter, especially protected cells which add even more resistance to the cell (even more not all protection circuits have identical resistance, but most have quit high anyway)
 
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