Noctigon Meteor M43

Candle Power Flashlight Forum

Help Support CPF:

I am wondering why not send a message to the seller or the manufacturer, asking why there are two blinks on turbo instead of guessing? Because as far as I know, the double blink does not only represent lower voltage, but also higher battery resistance, high temperature.
The double blink/warning function can also be switched off if you want, it is the last function in the right column in the manual, check it out, 12 clicks and hold the 13th.
 
Giocomo said:
The double blink/warning function can also be switched off if you want, it is the last function in the right column in the manual, check it out, 12 clicks and hold the 13th.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the guidance Giocomo, the twelve clicks and then hold on thirteen helped me to sort out some other things.

I have the owners manual downloaded to my desktop and reference it all the time. I can find no mention of the “twelve clicks and then hold on the thirteenth” in it. Manual

Giocomo said:
I am wondering why not send a message to the seller or the manufacturer, asking why there are two blinks on turbo instead of guessing?
Click to expand...

:confused:
 
Last edited:
fnsooner said:
I have the owners manual downloaded to my desktop and reference it all the time. I can find no mention of the “twelve clicks and then hold on the thirteenth” in it. Manual
Click to expand...

It's only mentioned on the 3 UI graphs. My light already started blinking today on turbo. I also switched the warning off, but still, that can't be the solution.
 
Ah, I see it now. I was looking for it in the text.

Mine was doing the double blink while off. I have a lot of gadgetry and possible blinky things around the house and it took me a minute to locate the source.
 
Giocomo said:
Currently no 4.35V are high drain, if you want you can use HKJ's comparator to see they are no match for serious drain cells, HE2, HE4, HG2, VTV5, 30Q whic are all 4.2V cells. The 4.35V caells have no advantage as they sag more at already only 5A, than those cells I mentioned before. Any 3400mAh cells is most likely based on the NCR18650B which is a really bad cells in terms of high current, I believe it would be a waste of time to even try to argue on the NCR18650B matter, especially protected cells which add even more resistance to the cell (even more not all protection circuits have identical resistance, but most have quit high anyway)
Click to expand...


Thanks for the info. 4.35 volts only came to my mind because of the manual. With these 4.2 volt cells even when fully charged, the light will only blink 5 times when activating the charge level indicator. BTW do you know the theoretical minimum voltage of the LG HG2 cells where they would still be able to provide enough current for the turbo mode? As it seems now, at least with my cells and light, it dials back the output even at 4.1 volts.
Actually I don't really understand why only Ampere values are given. To me it makes no sense, because as Volts decrease, Amperes have to increase to maintain same output, so in the manual Watt values should be stated.
 
Does anyone have experience using this flashlight for videography with 219BT LED 90 CRI? How well did it do? I am also wondering how do lower outputs affect CRI? Should I expect maximum CRI only when running it at certain output (maximum)?
I will definitely get this flashlight, but I am debating whether to go for the high CRI version and also use it for videography, or to just go for the higher lumen and throw version and get something else for videos.
Thanks!
 
DeanW8 said:
Does anyone have experience using this flashlight for videography with 219BT LED 90 CRI? How well did it do? I am also wondering how do lower outputs affect CRI? Should I expect maximum CRI only when running it at certain output (maximum)?
I will definitely get this flashlight, but I am debating whether to go for the high CRI version and also use it for videography, or to just go for the higher lumen and throw version and get something else for videos.
Thanks!
Click to expand...

The cri difference is very small and insignificant. For a reference, you could check the test results of the predecessor 219A

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?348171-Nichia-219-lumen-sphere-testing

Videography and photography was one of my excuses to buy this light (which is considerably more expensive than any of my older lights). However, 1. I haven't received my light yet (I assume it is in transit, haven't received any shipping notice or tracking number though) and 2. When shooting, I expect to use it mostly by bouncing the light from ceiling. So, no experiences yet.

:welcome:
 
If I understood correcly more light is emitted higher CRI value?

but thus what would be CRI value in turbo mode for M43 nichia 219B-V1? The manual specificates that M43 uses 8.25A max in turbo, but what it should significate? and what is the A used for each led to compare with the table, and knowing the aproximate CRI value?
 
Yes, you got it right but the differences regarding cri are insignificant. Especially since you need to use one of the most powerful modes anyway. It is also noteworthy that once the illumination goes down, the camera sensor performance goes down, too.

There are 4 parallel groups of 3 leds in series and the current is divided between those 4 groups. So, it is roughly 2A per led. I don't remember seeing similar tests for 219B-V1 but I would expect that the color rendering performance is close to similar to that of 219A (and the small possible differences would be insignificant anyway). However, the color temperature will be slightly higher. There has also been some reports suggesting that while 219A had some rosy hue (tint), it would be smaller in newer versions. I.e. the light would be even whiter to eye. These are things that depend on the particular tint bins you happen to get, though.
 
Esko said:
The cri difference is very small and insignificant. For a reference, you could check the test results of the predecessor 219A

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?348171-Nichia-219-lumen-sphere-testing

Videography and photography was one of my excuses to buy this light (which is considerably more expensive than any of my older lights). However, 1. I haven't received my light yet (I assume it is in transit, haven't received any shipping notice or tracking number though) and 2. When shooting, I expect to use it mostly by bouncing the light from ceiling. So, no experiences yet.

:welcome:
Click to expand...
Thanks for the welcome and the link.

That is quite impressive, near 90 CRI regardless of the current.

Was Meteor ever made with using Nichia 219A or only with 219B? I think I would prefer warmer color of the A version.
 
fnsooner said:
Oops, sorry I didn't clarify. Those are the original springs with some traditional springs inserted inside for some support. This was done solely to address the issue of the light shutting off when the tail is tapped. I haven't determined if I have helped the resistance issue. It couldn't hurt.

It may sound strange coming from someone on this site, but I am happy with the maximum output of the stock Meteor. I am trying to make a utility user out of this thing and probably won't use max much.
Click to expand...

In this case resistance will be as good as stock. Maybe slightly better but not significantly so. A very nice and elegant solution. It adresses both the mechanical issues as well as the cosmetic problems with the other solution presented before. Maybe recommend it to Hank?

davpet said:
I've found a little "problem" with the M43: if the batteries are not fresh off the charger, it doesn't take too much time before the light will not allow turbo, or even the 4A high in UI2. I've charged the batteries on Monday, flashed turbo a few times, and used low and medium modes for not more than 20 minutes, and it is already giving me the warning signal (two flashes) when I try to activate the higher high or turbo. I checked it with my light meter, the output is now the same on high and turbo, only a little brighter than high 1 (2A). Probably this has more to do with the batteries not being able to output that much current if the voltage is not at max. Still, the switch is not even green yet. Maybe this has been discussed before, but I wonder if a 2S2P battery configuration would have (at least partly) solved this problem.
Click to expand...

what batteries are you using? I use Sammy 30E and there is absolutely no problem getting to turbo, even when the batteries are down a good bit (green light).

You have to keep in mind that the voltage you measure when there is no load only tells you that much. Sure, it might idle at 4,1V - but when it drops significantly under load this is no good. In fact a good battery might read 3,9V idle but still have a higher voltage under load than your cell idling at 4,1V. If these are protected batteries voltage will even drop more.

2s2p would help, but it introduces other problems. With 4p you do not run into balancing problems as the batteries balance themselfes. You just need to use the right batteries (high-drain, unprotected preferably)
 
Thank you, thus in turbo mode on M43 CRI value should be roghly 95. On the link you gave us tests was made with NVSL219AT-H1 92+ CRI, but 92+ is indicating the typical and not the minum value. BTW the new 219BT-V1 specifies a minimum CRI of 90.

I guess it's insignificant too or may be that the model tested has the same 90 CRI minimum is it possible?
 
Pöbel said:
what batteries are you using?

2s2p would help, but it introduces other problems. With 4p you do not run into balancing problems as the batteries balance themselfes. You just need to use the right batteries (high-drain, unprotected preferably)
Click to expand...

I use the recommended LG INR18650-HG2 batteries. Actually the problem is solved. I recharged the cells once again, and used a significant force to screw on the head. This resulted in the light not blinking anymore on turbo. So, everything's fine!

If I'm not mistaken, the ThruNite TN36 UT uses a 4s configuration, which allows it to run over 7000 Lumens stock on protected cells that Vinh boosted up to over 13K. Even Lupine's proprietary batteries for its' flashlights use 2s or 2s2p, depending on the size of the pack.

But to be fair, there is no point in increasing light output any further, if the heat issue is not solved. Quality materials, excellent heat sinking will make the lights too heavy. Personally I think that the M43 is a bit heavy as it is, and still, in my test at room temperature it deceased its output to about 2000 Lumens in a few minutes. What I think is needed is much more efficient leds and higher capacity batteries.
 
I compared LG HG2 3000 with Soshine 3400 and Eizfan 3200, so the runtime in high mode was very different or unespected: in order 0:47 - 1.28 - 1.45 hours.

Take care that A absorbed was about 4A and the output power the same because tested with the m43 in the plastic basin. This is indicating that LG HG2 are not 3000mAh as declared but sounds to be less than 2000mAh :confused:. Another comparision made with Samsung INR 25R and Soshine 3400 with Tn36 in turbo mode (always into the plastic basin under water) and runtime difference was slightly smaller: 0:41 hours and 0:53 hours.
 
Last edited:
Did you measure brightness during this test? It might not have visibly stepped down, but ist still might have stepped for the soshine and eizfan while running on constant brightness with the HG2
 
Do you mean it might stepped down even if cooled for all the time under water?
To avoid current lack of power I tested in High2, so all batteries was able to put out the required power of 4A - and the output should be always the same - this is the reason I tested cells using High2 mode.

I write here my readings testing in high2: Efan 3200: 100min - LG HG2: 70min. Making a proportion real capacity of LG HG2 are around 2240mAh.
 
Last edited:
Stepdown could also have occured due to the battery. It's not just heat making a light step down. It best to check the bounced brightness with a luxmeter now and then, because your eyes might not detect these changes. 47minutes vs 1h45minutes is too big of a discrepancy for the light to be running with flat regulation.

Also: if the battery capacity is rated down to 2,5V the Meteor will not use the full capacity (but that's true for all batteries)
 
I am fairly new to LED flashlights.
My understanding and knowledge in reference to LED lights and Li-Ion batteries is limited.
I have three LED lights. The best is a Sunwayman D40A.
Would like to own one kick butt light in a small package.
I keep coming back to the Noctigon Meteor.
Some say they are afraid of unprotected Li-Ion batteries.
The Noctigon uses high drain, button top, unprotected batteries.
Is this light safe?.
Will some of the new Noctigon owners chime in and give the pros and cons on this light.
Over all, do you like it and would you buy it again?.

If, unprotected Li-ION batteries are unsafe, why would a company introduce a new flashlight that uses them.
Thanks boo.
 
They're not unsafe by themselves. Unprotected means they don't have an over discharge protection. Meaning that if a light doesn't have some sort of low voltage protection (the meteor does) it could drain the batteries to an unsafe level. So when using unprotected use them in a light that has built in protection like the meteor, or if you're not sure a good rule of thumb is, if the light output in a flashlight starts to significantly drop, charge the batteries. This is kind of the basic answer. The meteor is awesome, and I love mine.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest posts

Back
Top