"Non-incendive", revisited

RossB

Newly Enlightened
Joined
May 29, 2002
Messages
69
Location
California
I originally posted the question about a "non-incendive rating" because that's the kind of equipment I must have to go the places I must to do my job. However, it has just occurred to me that many of you, as I do, keep a light handy at home for those times when the Richter or Beaufort scale goes 6+. If it's dark, and you need a light to shut off the circuit breakers and the master valves for the gas and water, wouldn't you too like to have a light that can be operated with confidence even if there's a strong smell of natural gas from those ruptured pipes?

This is not a silly consideration; not too long ago, there was a flash fire of gas on an offshore rig caused by a cell phone. Not much more voltage than most lights, but that little spark was enough. http://www.mms.gov/safetyalerts/5.htm

I keep a Streamlight Syclone with its ringed and bad beam and the LED backup for three reasons: the "non-incendive rating", the LED as a backup, and its ability to stand up on its own, with the head able to direct light in the direction I need. But it's just too darn bulky for a working light, the way I use them.

Maybe I'm being paraniod, but I've seen the aftermath of gas fires, and it ain't pretty.
The problem, if it exists, extends to all flashlights.

Ross Brunetti
0 for 2 on Photon battery replacements
 
RossB,
Pelican makes a bunch of "Permissible Flashlights". Is this what you're thinking about? The StealthLite 4AA has all sorts of UL, CSA, MSHA ratings. And it's submersible to 500 feet.
Kirk
 
UKE also has a bunch of ratings. The 4AA has more than the mini Q40 'cause it has the relief valve. In the end, I ordered a Q40 'cause it was smaller.

I don't think I'd smell gas after THE BIG ONE 'cause I have a seismic gas shutoff valve. Works even when I'm away. Anything above approx 4.0 sets it off.

I think if I smelled gas I'd use my Arc AAA or my Arc SLS or my UKE SL6 or D8. I think the SL6 and D8 have a bunch of these ratings and the Arcs are well-sealed and always on my person. In fact, I think the jangling of the keys might be more risky than the spark from the Arc flashlight.

Cheers,

Richard
 
Ross, Most waterproof lights (and I MEAN waterproof to XXdepth) will also be gas-tight. This requires a good o-ring seal. Lights can be designed to be "Intrinsically Safe", but unless you pony up $30,000 to a testing lab, you don't get the approval rating.
 
I agree with you all. Yes, the expense of certification is a serious problem. And, yes, a light dive-rated to 100 feet (about 47 psi in seawater, or roughly 3 atmospheres) will laugh off methane molecules trying to penetrate it at sea level. The problem is, the safety people take their jobs very seroiusly too, and often insist upon those codes. It's not easy to argue with people who's job it is to keep you from getting burned up/cut up/blown up/smashed/etc.

Ross
 
Originally posted by rlhess:
...UKE also has a bunch of ratings. The 4AA has more than the mini Q40 'cause it has the relief valve....
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Richard,

I've always wondered about that valve. Is it there to bleed off hydrogen in addition to or in lieu of a catalyst? Any idea of catalyst location in the 4AA/Q40 and 2L?

Brightnorm
 
Originally posted by Scott@Tektite:
Ross, Most waterproof lights (and I MEAN waterproof to XXdepth) will also be gas-tight. This requires a good o-ring seal. Lights can be designed to be "Intrinsically Safe", but unless you pony up $30,000 to a testing lab, you don't get the approval rating.
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">This makes sense. But is the seal to keep the gas out, or to keep the flash of an internal fire in? I'd be more likely to believe the latter, as that's how explosion proof electrical wiring is designed. To be really safe, you should be able to take the flashlight apart and put it back together - change batteries - in that atmosphere. Does anybody here know what those UL and FM ratings mean?
 
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