NovaTac EDC T and E Models CRACKED! Back Door/Easter egg found!

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streetmaster said:
Then must be this ad is a lie...
Click to expand...

That's my educated guess, but like I said, there's one way to find out for sure.

That advertisement also says they are Made in USA. That has never been true. If you actually look at the legal requirements for making that claim, all parts that go into a product must also be Made in USA, ALL PARTS. That is impossible if you are using a Korean emitter.

This is why a lot of other manufacturers, like Henry for example, don't dare claim Made in USA, even though for all intensive purposes, they are. It's not worth the legal risk.
 
Any tips from anyone who's managed to get to 250 with a f"cked tail switch?
Anyone managed to get there one handed with the thumb?

The EDC 120-E really has shite default settings, hasn't it?
Still, up to the highlands this weekend with my NT and Ra Clicky. Will keep trying to get to 250 with all the free time away from work.[/quote]

Have you tried some drops of alcohol into the little holes inside the tailcap? I had to do it a couple times before I got the 250 clicks.

I got a "T" at Botach with the flat tail cap included or I would have gotten the regular EDC. It saved buying the flat tail cap or getting the "P" version for say $30 more. I had also read this thread and planned to crack it anyway and so far it's worked out very well.

I do plan to get a Clicky Executive however (already have the TI clip on order) and the NT will do some back up duty.
 
EEG said:
Have you tried some drops of alcohol into the little holes inside the tailcap? I had to do it a couple times before I got the 250 clicks.
Click to expand...

Very good advice. This has been suggested before, probably in this thread. If anyone has read this entire thread, they would know that the switches sometimes get dirty from the heavy repeated clicks we are doing to reach the 250 "crack". Just drip some alcohol into the holes inside the tailcap, swish it around and if you have a can of compressed air, blow it out(keep it away from your face/eyes).
 
LLCoolBeans said:
That's my educated guess, but like I said, there's one way to find out for sure.

That advertisement also says they are Made in USA. That has never been true. If you actually look at the legal requirements for making that claim, all parts that go into a product must also be Made in USA, ALL PARTS. That is impossible if you are using a Korean emitter.

This is why a lot of other manufacturers, like Henry for example, don't dare claim Made in USA, even though for all intensive purposes, they are. It's not worth the legal risk.
Click to expand...

It is my understanding that the Military Ops and Tactical models are still going to be made in the US in order to be sold to the US Military. I don't know what the US government requires in order for the product to be considered USA made. The ad for the other "new" models(Classic, Storm, and Special Ops) does not state made in USA, and a while back another CPF member was told in an email by NT customer service that the new ones were going to be made overseas.

Bean, I'm sorry for taking your thread off topic, I'm trying to find out as much as I can about these new NT's.

There is a thread discussing the new NovaTacs here NovaTac New Models *New(er) Pics* and any further posts on that topic should be directed there.

Bob
 
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dilbert said:
Surefire has HAIII in silver. Fenix has it in blue, purple, and orange/gold.
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As I understand it, any HA III color must be darker than the natural dark gray color. So I have actually seen blue hardcoat, but it was so dark that it was almost black.

Are you sure SureFire and Fenix have hardcoat in those colors, or are they just claiming it? Or maybe, they offer both type II and type III?

Once again, easy to check, type II will scratch easily, type III will be difficult to scratch even with a hardened steel tool. Try it. (In a location you are not concerned with there being a scratch)
 
A member with experience has just chimed in on the HAIII colors thread. As it turns out this is at least possible.

It would still be interesting to see who's colored "HAIII" passes the scratch test and who's doesn't.
 
Not to sidetrack the somewhat off-topic HAIII stuff :poke: 😀 but I'm still trying to understand why my reprogrammed 120E has a higher brightness in the secondary (a double click) than the PH (press hold from on) or click PH. The PH or click PH is noticeably lower in brightness than the level I have programmed for a secondary position. How can that be?
 
matrixshaman said:
Not to sidetrack the somewhat off-topic HAIII stuff :poke: 😀 but I'm still trying to understand why my reprogrammed 120E has a higher brightness in the secondary (a double click) than the PH (press hold from on) or click PH. The PH or click PH is noticeably lower in brightness than the level I have programmed for a secondary position. How can that be?
Click to expand...

Do you have forced setting enabled? If so, what setting is it forcing?
 
matrixshaman said:
Nope - forced setting is disabled. I like it to remember to come on the last used setting rather than always one particular setting.
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:thinking: Hmmm...

So you didn't set maximum brightness to maximum brightness? Dang these names are confusing. I wish instead of Maximum, Primary, Secondary and Minimum, we could refer to them as something more easily discernible, like 1,2,3 and 4.

What happens if you press-hold from on to lock maximum (1), then set that brightness to something brighter? Does that not work? Am I misunderstanding?
 
:ohgeez: I guess I've gotten rusty on the NT's. I've been so busy with a big project the last year I barely get time to use my lights other than basic 'as needed' situations. For some reason I forgot you can actually program the 'Maximum' setting also. I just thought the click PH always took you to Maximum and that Maximum was Maximum - rather than anything you want to set that 'Maximum' slot to be. Fortunately it can be set to anything making Henry's programming more versatile than I had remembered. I should have remembered this as I've got one of my HDS lights triple click minimum set several levels brighter than the secondary which is set at the lowest level. Thanks for the help!
 
Okay - let me preface this post with the statement that I am no expert here. However, I had no end of problems trying to "crack" my 120E - and it was all due to a the tailcap switch being jacked up.

So the way I solved the problem was to disassemble the tailcap using snap ring pliers on the retaining ring. Once you have the switch out you will see that there is a 4 winged metal disc that is held in place with a piece of what appears to be clear packing tape. I carefully lifted the tape and then cleaned all surfaces of the metal disc and corresponding contact areas on the circuit board with rubbing alcohol and let it dry for a few minutes. Now do your best to locate the 4 winged disc on the circuit board with as equal an overlap as you can for each wing and stick the tape back down. Reassemble and try to crack that bad boy - worked for me on the first try after countless prior attempts.

Now as a side note, make sure you have cleaned the contact surfaces of the springs at each end and the outer spring as well as the circuit board areas in the head and tailcap and the ends of the removable battery tube. This will ensure a good electrical path.

One last suggestion - the easiest method of performing the 250 click for me was bezel down on a desk with me in a standing position. Support the light with one hand and with your thumb of your other hand actuate the switch in nice rythmic pace - does not need to be ultra fast, just consistently for about a minute or minute and a half. Now just follow prior instructions in this thread.

I realize much of what I state above is repeated - just thought it might be helpful for the few recent folks posting with problems.

Good Luck and Cheers,
Tim
 
Nope, still can't get it.
Tried to get the tail cap appars, but you need special tools. My leatherman just ain't up to it.

The button on my tail cap isn't sensetive enough anymore to do the 250 click press. It mis-interprets some very solid clicks as not having been pressed, and cancels the sequence half way through. Cant seem to get much beyond 140.

For the sake of $50, I should probably have just bought a 120P.
Unfortunately, I have an E, and as you all know, the defaults are shite.
 
mbassoc2003 said:
Nope, still can't get it.
Tried to get the tail cap appars, but you need special tools. My leatherman just ain't up to it.

The button on my tail cap isn't sensetive enough anymore to do the 250 click press. It mis-interprets some very solid clicks as not having been pressed, and cancels the sequence half way through. Cant seem to get much beyond 140.

For the sake of $50, I should probably have just bought a 120P.
Unfortunately, I have an E, and as you all know, the defaults are shite.
Click to expand...
Did you try cleaning the switch with alcohol without taking it apart? People have fixed theirs that way too. It just has dirty contacts, once you get that cleaned the crack will be easy.
 
Okay. What's 'rubbing alcohol'. I'm a newbie. Don't know what I'm looking for when I go to the hardware store. I try to dribble a little inside from around the button, and inside the tailcap and hope it feeds through?
 
mbassoc2003 said:
Okay. What's 'rubbing alcohol'. I'm a newbie. Don't know what I'm looking for when I go to the hardware store. I try to dribble a little inside from around the button, and inside the tailcap and hope it feeds through?
Click to expand...

Isopropyl Alcohol may not be at the hardware store. More likely to be at the drugstore/pharmacy.

Do some clicks before the aclohol dries out. Make sure it's dry before you put the light back together. :poof:FLAMMABLE:poof:
 
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streetmaster said:
Isopropyl Alcohol may not be at the hardware store. More likely to be at the drugstore/pharmacy.

Do some clicks before the aclohol dries out. Make sure it's dry before you put the light back together. :poof:FLAMMABLE:poof:
Click to expand...

They should have it at the hardware store too.

It's best to get it at the electronics supply. The electronics supply sells it in a 99% dilution. You will be lucky to find 90% at the drug or hardware store, most of what is sold there is around a 70% dilution. 70% dilution meaning 30% water.
 
LLCoolBeans said:
They should have it at the hardware store too.

It's best to get it at the electronics supply. The electronics supply sells it in a 99% dilution. You will be lucky to find 90% at the drug or hardware store, most of what is sold there is around a 70% dilution. 70% dilution meaning 30% water.
Click to expand...

I have always used 99%. I have no use for 70%. I guess I should have mentioned that.😗 Why would anyone water down alcohol? :buddies: Such a waste...:devil:

BTW, I got my 99% at Wal-Mart.
 
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