NovaTac EDC T and E Models CRACKED! Back Door/Easter egg found!

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Got it.
A new button from NT and I'm into the options menu and activated ramping first time. Woohoo.
As a bonus, NT didn't know which switch to send me, so they sent a raised switch and a flush switch, both marked 120E.
So, no passing this off as a P then.

All in, this is a pretty good backup light to my EDC which is a Ra Clicky Tactical 170.
 
mbassoc2003 said:
Got it.
A new button from NT and I'm into the options menu and activated ramping first time. Woohoo.
As a bonus, NT didn't know which switch to send me, so they sent a raised switch and a flush switch, both marked 120E.
So, no passing this off as a P then.

All in, this is a pretty good backup light to my EDC which is a Ra Clicky Tactical 170.
Click to expand...

Must be nice. I paid 20 bucks for my flat switch.

Now what are ya gonna do? Do you have 3 switches?
 
One of the switches is f'cked. Pretty well screwed. Might take it appart and see if I can fit a glow in the dark rubber boot onto it.

The other two (one of each) I'm trying to decide which I like best. ATM I have the extended cap with rubber covers for the front and back from Flashlightlens.com, and you can pull the back one off a little and use it to tailstand the NT with the extended button. So I'm still playing around to find out what's my best configuration and bext programming. It'll probably live on my desk for the next few months.

Either way, it's not as good as the Ra Clicky. The Ra Clicky just feels better built (subtly) and I prefer the weightiness of it. So my Clicky will remain my EDC.
 
I gotta say, having lived with the NT and three Ra Clickies over the past moth or so, the NT is to me a much better light in the hand. The size fits better with my hand, being almost exactly the same as the width as my palm, and the NT clip is unobtrusive, sits in the correct position along the length of the light, and is low enough in profile to fit into the bowl of the hand. Operationally, I find the flush tailcap to be a far better performer than it's Clicky counterpart. There is a thicker feel to the rubber. I didn't like the fact that you could actually feel the contacts through the rubber of the flush Clicky cap. So, all in, I now EDC my hacked NT EDC 120E with flush tailcap.

All that said, my site light (I'm in construction) is an Ra Clicky Tactical which is a solid performer, and the light in my BoB is also an Ra Clicky Tactical, because I know it'll work when I need it to be there. And as I say, I have three Clickies, and only one NT (although I am in the market for another), and they're all designed by the same guy, and manufactured (as far as I am aware) in America, so I suppose the important things that matter are pedegree and not the label on the cover.

So who's gonna buy a Storm? Are you really gonna trust NT to make their lights on the cheap? I for one will looh for old NT EDCs and HDS lights.

PS. Have spare raised tail caps, but can't for the life of me get the sales section of the site to work. Also can't get the site to respond to e-mails. So if you're interested PM me, and if you're a moderator, maybe you could look into getting yopur site fixed, and getting the appropriate individuals to respond to e-mails.
 
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Spare raised tailcaps for the NT, or the Ra?

I still can't say which I like better. My NT 120E(cracked), or my Clicky EDCE120. I like them both for different reasons. :shrug:
 
streetmaster said:
Spare raised tailcaps for the NT, or the Ra?

I still can't say which I like better. My NT 120E(cracked), or my Clicky EDCE120. I like them both for different reasons. :shrug:
Click to expand...
NT Tailcaps. I'm in the UK, so there're probably better sources for tailcaps in the US if that's where you are.

I do really like the Ra Clickies too. Better runtime. More efficient use of the emitter. But the NT feels better in my hand, and that's probably a combination of the shorter body and the smaller clip. I'd put the NT chop into a Ra Clicky, but the ideal place to put it cannot be achieved, and anywhere else is just a compromise.
 
mbassoc2003 said:
.... PS. Have spare raised tail caps, but can't for the life of me get the sales section of the site to work. Also can't get the site to respond to e-mails. ....
Click to expand...
Strange, but do you know you have to register with cpfmarketplace separately? You can use the same alias or a different one. If that's not the issue, you'll have to contact someone.
 
StandardBattery said:
Strange, but do you know you have to register with cpfmarketplace separately? You can use the same alias or a different one. If that's not the issue, you'll have to contact someone.
Click to expand...
You know, I've already tried that. And not received any e-mails in response to my questions from the moderators. It appears that my e-mail address is blocked so I can't register, which is funny, seeing as I only ever found this website six weeks ago, and have owned the same e-mail address and domain name now for twelve years. They are very selective about who they let in. I presume seeing as I'm a newbie I don't qualify for membership. But seeing as they don't publish any membership criteria or allow anyone to ask them questions who knows.

And of course there is no means of enquiring or asking for the problem to be addressed. The only option they permit is to raise the issue in open forum. So please, will a moderator explain either by PM or e-mail, or here in open forum, how long a new member has to wait until you lift the block on them joining the Marketplace?

In the meantime, I still have two raised tailcaps for the Novatac EDC range for sale. PM me if you're interested.
 
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Ok, obviously I'm the dumbest NT owner on the planet (or at least on CP Forums). I LOST my beloved NT EDC 120T about a month ago and have felt naked ever since. I read this post, that you can crack a 120E, didn't want to spend the extra money to get another 120T, so I decided to get a 120E and crack it. I just received it today, brand new, SN 20XXX. I've tried to crack this thing 20+ times in every position I could imagine. I tried cleaning the tailcap with alcohol, it has a brand new battery. NOTHING! I hate the factory menus on this thing. I really miss my 120T. PLEASE HELP!
 
This is so frustrating! I have a brand new 120E. I found a "easy" and comfortable position to get to what I think is 250 clicks. I start from "off" by one click to turn it on, then start clicking. I've been careful to make sure (after many attempts) to stay consistant and make sure the light stays on at the same level throughout the "clicking" process. Somewhere around 250 it starts strobing about once per second. Am I in program mode? I've tried 9 clicks to get into the brightness ramping, and it just stays on at the highest setting. I've tried the click x 3, press. Nothing. Still acts like a crappy 120E!

Man I miss my 120T!!!!
 
I doubt you are being blocked from the marketplace - probably just a bug in something you've done or in the registration process. I'd try again with a different email - just grab one of the free ones from Yahoo, Gmail or wherever and try it and once your reg'd you can change your email to your old one I'm sure.
 
Disciple002 said:
Ok, obviously I'm the dumbest NT owner on the planet (or at least on CP Forums). I LOST my beloved NT EDC 120T about a month ago and have felt naked ever since. I read this post, that you can crack a 120E, didn't want to spend the extra money to get another 120T, so I decided to get a 120E and crack it. I just received it today, brand new, SN 20XXX. I've tried to crack this thing 20+ times in every position I could imagine. I tried cleaning the tailcap with alcohol, it has a brand new battery. NOTHING! I hate the factory menus on this thing. I really miss my 120T. PLEASE HELP!
Click to expand...
It took me four days to crack it. It was very frustrating, but I got there eventually. Here's what I have to contribute....

1. Stay calm and don't keep trying over and over again. The light isn't going anywhere. They've not changed the program and your's can be cracked just like everyone elses. Slow down. Take big breaks between attempts (I mean like watch a movie or something). The button will get stressed just as much as you will, so for the sake of you both, take a break.

2. Seriously. Put down the flashlight and go do something else.

3. The best position I found, thanks to someone else here, is stand beside a desk, stand the torch so that it is button up on top, grip the torch with one hand, and begin to press the button slowly and regularily with your other thumb, keeping your shoulder and arm above the flashlight. As your thumb tires, keep the rhythm going, but use the weight of your arm and your forearm muscles to help you.

4. When you reach the point where the light begins to flash, press and hold the button for a second or two. You have got yourself into the options menu.

5. Now, pick up the flashlight and click once, the light will flash to indicate it is in the next option. Take your time. You have ten seconds after each click to decide what to do. Click again and you go to the next option. Click again and you go to the next. Cycle through until the light respons with a dim to bright signal. Then press and hold. The light will slowly ramp from dim to bright to indicate that it has activated ramping (that it is now programmable). And don't worry if you miss it, or think you've missed it. You can keep clicking through the options menu over and over again.

6. If you get ther eand you fail (we all do), give it a break. It's not going anywhere. Go and do something else. Come back later.

Seriously, if you look back through the thread, I was pulling my hair out over this. Now I look like Jean Luke.
 
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IT WORKED! Thanks guys! Very much appreciated. Now I'm having another problem though. I've read through the manual for the P and I'm just not sure what I did. Here's what's happening. From off, 1 click or press and it goes right into emergency strobe. From emergency strobe, 1 press and it goes into momentary full brightness, until I release. Here's what I think I did, I think I enabled option 4 without enabling 9. Sound right? If so, do I need to do the whole 250 clicks again to get back into option 9?

Here's how I would like to program it, if someone would be kind enough to walk me through it, that would be great.

From off: 1 click = full bright
1 click, press = disorienting strobe until released, then goes back to full bright until clicked off or entered another option.

From on: 2 clicks = about half-bright
3 clicks = emergency signal strobe.

Is this do-able? Thanks again guys, you don't know how relieved I am to even get this far.
 
This may have been asked previously, but I am not going to read this entire thread to look...does this cracking methodology work on the HDS models too?
 
There is a similar but not identical way to hack the HDS basic models to make them like the Ultimate models. There's a message thread around here somewhere that will tell you how. Just looked around and it may be hard to find. I think it was the same as getting into the Ultimate menu except you did 250 clicks instead of 10 clicks. After that it's the same to program as an Ultimate. If you want to change anything though you always have to do the 250 click routine.
 
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I have received my second NT, this one a 120T, and the easter egg works exactly the same as my other one. Reason I'm posting is that there seems to be differences in the build between the two flashlights. So maybe I have one of the original design NTs and one of the new post-Storm NTs. Who knows. Here are the differences....

1. My new NT has a slightly darker and slightly more glossy black finish to the aluminium.
2. My new NT has a double spring, akin to the design introduced in Henry's Ra Clicky range, only without the plates on the end of the springs. My older Nt (2 months old) has a spring in the tail cap, and a plate with nipples in the head of the light.
3. My new NT has softer springs, and those springs are stainless steel. My old NT has a brass/copper coloured spring.
4. My new NT has a raised tail cap with a button that offers greater resistence, and has a much more audible 'tinny' click.
5. The clip on my new NT (and my old clip because I've tries swapping them) spins freely around the light (which is really annoying!). But both clips are relatively stiff on the old NT. From this I deduce that the new NT has a slightly narrower shank about the thread. Also the tailcap is very easily unscrewed (to the extent that this is the default for inserting the battery), so I would speculate that this may be the introduction of greater allowance for tolerance in manufacture, which also may be an indicator of manufacture by a company unable to meet the previous levels of manufacturing tolerance (read manufactured abroad).

That is my summary of the purchase and comparison of two Novatac EDCs, both purchased from the same UK supplier, two months appart. The first prior to all UK stock drying up, the second from the new batch of stock arriving in the UK. Incidentally, both lights appear to have the same emitter, and both emitters exhibit low level flicker on the lowest two settings. The older of the two has a faint blue/purple tint when compared side by side with the new NT, which has a faint green tint.
 
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Easy way to tell, what's the serial number? First two digits at least...

Sounds to me like a 30XXX series, which has 90% of the features that you mentioned. The latest run of NovaTacs (30XXX) have the new spring on the head contact.
 
Curiously, both lights have a 21XXX serial number, and both are so remarkably different in the feel of the quality. The older of the two (what I term pre-Storm), has a better feel about the build. The newer model feels cheaper in the way it was built, the components fit looser and the moving parts make a greater amount of noise. The paintwork gives the impression that they just stuck on an extra layer or a varnish. Kinda like Maglite were doing copies. But the emitter, reflector, lens, etc all have no decernable difference, and the program is virtually identical. Having jailbroken it, I don't want to reset and probe around to see if I can get firmware indicators. I know you can do that with Clickies, so I imagine you might be able to do that with Novatacs. But I'm not gonna go looking. Maybe Novatac are reconditioning lights and repackaging them as new? That would explain the new parts in old bodies issue, and the mis-match between finer tolerance bodies and wider tolerance barrels and caps. The only thing we do know is for certain is that something is fishy; and there's no way in hell Novatac will tell us.
 
Coming in on the backside of all this, but I got my Black 85T last week from Lighthound and FINALLY went through the 250-click process. After messing it up a few times, after setting it on Tactical Momentary in the options menu before realizing that there's no way to get it back without a factory reset, which un-does the 250 click toggle, I'm finally setup in programming mode, very happy with it and can get through the options fairly easily.

I know this is already on top of many others, but THANKS! for sharing this with us. Very, very cool.
 
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