NovaTac EDC T and E Models CRACKED! Back Door/Easter egg found!

[cslinger]

I just did a battery change and can confirm that the light stays in the programmable mode. Basically if you have a T model like I do you create a P model with the extended button. I now technically have a true 85P and now an 85T-P and 120T-P. I do not have a basic model to empirically test if it works the same way.

I have not done a hard reset as I don't feel like clicking 250+ times to put this back the way I want it.

My T models are now 100% my perfect lights.
High beam momentary when I want it.
High beam constant if I want it.
General purpose and low low beams with instant access back to high when I want it

To the OP you rock.

For those familiar with the previous HDS EDC series of lights this is similar in nature to the 250 click routine for those but you would need to do that every time you wanted to program them. Doing this for the Novatacs quite literally makes them a P model and allows very easy access to the programmable functions just as the manual for the P model states.

Chris

 

[SnWnMe]

Okay this is what I noticed with my 120E.

It is not exactly a 120P. Someone said it becomes a programmable E and this is correct IME with my 20K SN 120E. There seems to be inconsistencies with the way click press behaves.

120P allows four settings.

Click: Setting 1
Click x 2 : Setting 2
Click x 3 : Setting 3
Click Press: Setting 4


With the cracked E

Click: Setting 1
Click x 2: Setting 2
Click X 3: Setting 3
Click press: This seems to copy whatever setting 1 is on. Then 1 becomes a medium high setting (maybe 50 to 60 lm) when I revisit it after the initial power up. Turning the light off and then again repeats this swapping and changing pattern.

 

[cslinger]

Interesting. The T's most certainly can be set up exactly like you want and have 4 distinct slots for use. The T's become P's with extended buttons.

Chris

 

[streetmaster]

My 120E w/serial in the 14XXX has all 4 programmable slots. SnWnMe, maybe the last used memory feature is what's messing you up?

 

[LLCoolBeans]

Click: Setting 1
Click x 2: Setting 2
Click X 3: Setting 3
Click press: This seems to copy whatever setting 1 is on. Then 1 becomes a medium high setting (maybe 50 to 60 lm) when I revisit it after the initial power up. Turning the light off and then again repeats this swapping and changing pattern.

I had this same problem at first. I did a factory reset, then re-enabled customization. Problem went away.

 

[Yapo]

Cool i never knew you could do it for the old HDS Basic...just so happen to have a Basic 42 GT lying around...although i find it's UI pretty close to perfect already.

I wonder if it'll work on their new lights...

 

[Burgess]

Great work, LLCoolBeans !

:thumbsup::twothumbs:wow::goodjob:
_

 

[streetmaster]

LLCoolBeans, While you're here, I just want to thank you again for your discovery. It's like Christmas came early for me this year.

 

[SnWnMe]

@ SM Nope. I have Option 4 enabled so it always reverts to setting 1 regardless of the setting the light was on when I turned it off.

LL I'll try that. Tnx

 

[streetmaster]

Nope. I have Option 4 enabled so it always reverts to setting 1 regardless of the setting the light was on when I turned it off.

Ok, sorry. I'm still new to these programmable lights. I just know it was screwing me up at first until I disabled it.

 

[SnWnMe]

No worries SM. I'm having fun with this :twothumbs

I have a real P, so I'll set one of my Es as a T and leave the other one be :twothumbs

 

[SnWnMe]

Did a factory reset and reprogram. It's still doing it @ Setting 1 and Click Press.

Actually, now Setting 3 gets copied to Setting 1 :sick2:

 

[LLCoolBeans]

Did a factory reset and reprogram. It's still doing it @ Setting 1 and Click Press.

Actually, now Setting 3 gets copied to Setting 1 :sick2:

Did you double check to make sure option 4 was enabled?

 

[SnWnMe]

Yet another factory reset. This time I did not mess with the click press slot and it seems to be behaving. Click press was left at max setting.

So now it's 42 lm, 0.47 lm (just enough to stop the flicker), epileptic strobe, and max (click press). Whew my hands are sore despite that raised tailcap.

Oh and I didn't have to disable/enable Option 4 either.

 

[LLCoolBeans]

Wow, almost 1,700 views in 24hrs.

 

[streetmaster]

Wow, almost 1,700 views in 24hrs.

Yeah, just imagine how many views it'll be up to in a month! I'm predicting it will be one of the most viewed threads in quite some time.

 

[tx101]

AAAARGGGG .... I have cramp in my fingers now
Lost count of the number of times I have tried this
Got into the Options Menu three times and messed up
and had to start over again ....
I can get into the Options Menu but my fingers are so tried
by then, I mess up going into Option 9
I'll wait until the Mrs gets home and ask her to try ....

 

[jojobos]

LL, thanks for the info. Any hacks for 120P?
I am jealous of Henry's RA170. I want to make my 120p to 180P!!


:twothumbs

 

[RichS]

Awesome info LL - thanks for finding this for us!! Now I'll have a pewter 120P and a black 120E-P!

You 'Da Man!! Thanks again!! :twothumbs:twothumbs:twothumbs

 

[streetmaster]

LL, thanks for the info. Any hacks for 120P?
I am jealous of Henry's RA170. I want to make my 120p to 180P!!


:twothumbs

Haha, me too! But I think that would have to be the front door hack. 😎

My favorite light has just been transformed into the "ultimate" light, and now I want it to be brighter.:candle: Isn't that a sure-fire sign of flashaholism? (pun intended):laughing:

But seriously, 180 lumens would be nice. I guess my ba-zillions of 2x123 lights will have to fill that... spot.

Wow, sleep deprivation has caused me to think I have a sense of humor. Sorry guys.