Novatac issue/question

[Ousanas]

Howdy all,

Ok, purchased a Novatac 120e from here. It has the flat tail cap like the 120p. I have noticed that the switch fails to register for me at about a 20% rate (overall, sometimes less, sometimes more). It also won't stay clicked when I'm trying to use momentary max sometimes.

I emailed novatac and I will probably be sending it in shortly for work. But I am also wondering, since I have fairly large hands, does anyone else have this problem with the flat tailcap and large hands? Is it less of a problem with the protruding switch? I love this light, and while I like the tailstand ability, if it would work every time with the protruding cap I'd go with that with no issues, unfortunately I don't have one here to test with.

Anybody have both and larger hands and can shed some light on the issue for me before I give up my light for a couple weeks? :mecry:

 

[jzmtl]

I found sometimes even when you feel the pop from switch, it still doesn't make electrical contact and need to press harder. I think it may be dirty contact, but don't have a snap ring plier to take out the retainer ring to verify.

 

[Ousanas]

yeah, I keep trying to decide if it's that or if it's just my big mitts causing more of the problems. I can sit and click it 10 times in a row at what seems to be the same speed and force and it works about 8 out of 10...

so I'm just not sure.

 

[BabyDoc]

It has to be a faulty contact or switch. I have the flat switch with a 120P and I have never had a problem. I am very sensitive to switching issues (I had a SF E1B that drove me nuts because its clicky didn't always make the right switch between high and low especially if you didn't pause between clicks - finally returned the light because a replacement behaved the same) The 120p has got to have a good switch in order to make the multiple, close together, click commands needed to get from one mode to another. I would stick with the flat switch if you like the candle stand ability. Considering you like that, you were lucky to get the 120P switch on your 120E.

 

[Ousanas]

yeah, that was one of the reason's I picked this one up, cuz It had a flat tailswitch. I wouldn't mind trying the other to see how it works out for me, so maybe I'll look for a spare on the marketplace.

 

[Krispy]

Howdy all,

Ok, purchased a Novatac 120e from here. It has the flat tail cap like the 120p. I have noticed that the switch fails to register for me at about a 20% rate (overall, sometimes less, sometimes more). It also won't stay clicked when I'm trying to use momentary max sometimes.

I emailed novatac and I will probably be sending it in shortly for work. But I am also wondering, since I have fairly large hands, does anyone else have this problem with the flat tailcap and large hands? Is it less of a problem with the protruding switch? I love this light, and while I like the tailstand ability, if it would work every time with the protruding cap I'd go with that with no issues, unfortunately I don't have one here to test with.

Anybody have both and larger hands and can shed some light on the issue for me before I give up my light for a couple weeks? :mecry:

I've had the exact same experiences with a 120p. I thought I was having problems with my big/ugly thumbs not obeying commands from my brain. (every 4th or fifth click was not registered).

I then tried the 17670 tube & switch for the old HDS at Lighthound. I wish that I could say never, but I don't believe that this setup has ever produced the same results as the standard switch. Every audible click results in the desired effect. B4 only maybe 3 out of 5.

The HDS switch also works by itself. Again everything fine. My fantastic trouble-shooting skills (and super-human modesty), lead me to a reliability issue with the standard Novatac switch. BTW I first tried Dioxit Pro & Gold.

The reliability of the novatac switch seems to be in question.

 

[Derek Dean]

Howdy Ousanas,
Before returning your light be sure and check a few of these things:

1. Take the light apart (tailcap, battery tube, and head). Inspect the retaining rings in the tailcap and head sections for tightness. The retaining ring is a slender, silver disc with 4 notches opposite each other. A paper clip or tweezers should work if you don't have small enough need nose pliers. Just turn clockwise a bit to make sure all is tight.

2. Try gently and only slightly stretching the battery tube spring.... just a tiny bit, and clean both ends with contact cleaner.

3. Clean the spring (negative contact) in the tail cap and the positive node in the the head with contact cleaner.

4. Remove any lube on the battery tube threads, clean thoroughly and then lightly re-lube.

5. Install a fresh battery, reassemble the light and tighten all the parts securely.

I've noticed that after folks do this type of procedure once, most of their issues seem to be taken care of. Good luck.

 

[TJx]

Here's another thread about it:

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=191305&highlight=novatac

My 85P has had zero issues but my newer black 120P was skipping about 20-25%. After doing the few things recommended in this thread it's down under 10%, still not 100%
I'm wondering if NovaTac beefed up the switch or something because if you press hard enough each time it won't skip, wondering maybe if it just needs to be broken in to be more reliable???