Here's a quick and dirty review of the M20. First time doing beamshots, and my first $100+ flashlight (and first review).
Olight M20 Warrior (Premium R2)
Ergonomics: 4.5/5.0
This is my first 1" diameter tactical light.. it's very small in my large hands. I was expecting a slightly bigger light from the pictures that were available. The "feel" is good, it handles pretty well in the hand, heavy and well balanced with access to the switch unobstructed. Of note is the "rear strike bezel", and that it doesn't occlude the switch. The clip is a snap clip, so it popped right off. I wonder if it would be prone to coming off in this fashion being worn on a pocket and snagging on something.. saves the clip, but drops the light? The head twist mode changing is consistent, though not my personal preference (a two-handed tactical light). Every section of metal is optional.. the grip ring, the clip, the crenelated bezel.. are all removable. I found that simply removing the clip gave me a comfortable tactical grip, leaving the grip ring in place.
Photo Courtesy of Varuscelli
From Left to Right: NiteCore D10, SureFire 6P, Olight M20 Warrior, Fenix L2D, Dereelight DBS V2
Function 4.0/5.0
The Mode Pattern is High > Strobe > Low > Medium > High. It switches very cleanly and reliably, however, there's no way to change mode without the light being on. Accessing Low mode, you assume you'd want no bright light, but if you aren't in low, you have to snuff the head to avoid light contamination. Also, when in other modes, you have to cycle to get back to High. Depending on your needs and personal preference, this system is either perfect, or merely functional.
The switch feels like it can soft-press in constant on, and this would've been a nice place to access other functions. You can't knock the Tactical benefits of "set it, and forget it".. not worrying that your mode will accidentally change during a stressful encounter. I'm still looking for that ability to go "on" then pre-load strobe mode, so the next push is strobe (i.e. Gladius, First-light). Strobe is a facinating feature to me, and I'm trying to incorporate it's use in my work. Considering pure disorientation, I've not yet managed to get that from the M20's strobe from bounce.
It's tough to give a really good indication of the low.. I'd describe it as a very tolerable level.. close to that of a small keychain led. It's not painful to look straight into, and bounceback on paper up close (reading an address f.ex) doesn't mess with night vision. With a key benefit of still having throw. As someone else mentioned, low will still illuminate objects identifiably across the yard.
Medium mode is brighter than most stock lights, and seems like a very useful level.. the light would suit it's purpose fine without the step to high.
High, of course, is where this light shines... *crickets*... in high mode, the green tint becomes unnoticeable, the beam profile smooths out by brute force, and you get the throw you're looking for.
Beam: 4.3/5.0
White wall shows a little ringier beam than I anticipated. There's a distinct separation in the Corona with a warmer tint shift. I've got a SMO to drop in too, so we'll see just how bad the R2 might get. Very warm tint compared to my TF2c cree, and MUCH better beam obviously. The ss strike bezel also provides a beam ring just outside the corona, nothing destructive, but it's there. The Bezel also constrains the spillbeam a bit, but with a round profile, rather than cren. Outdoors, the beam provides good throw and spill, the tint providing a better color rendition than the TF2c. The difference in brightness was quite noticeable. Spill is very defined at it's edges. The hotspot on LOP is pleasing, with good definition and intensity.
Note: just tried to remove the LOP and was unsuccessful. It's fit pretty tight and I was afraid I was going to damage it, so that part is on hold till I get better info on removing it. Will update this section if it makes a great difference.
Link to fullsize beam profile.
http://i467.photobucket.com/albums/rr39/PhilVTn/m20-cren-full.jpg
Notice the neutral space between the green corona and a ring. This doesn't do jack to the beam in use, but it's visible on a white wall.
Finish: 4.8/5.0
HA is excellent. Lettering is extremely clean, as is all the milling. The threads look great and are oiled, however they do have a little grit in them. I fully expect them to clean out perfectly when I get a chance. The Holster feels sturdy, and will allow you to remove the light without a "velcro rip", replacement could be done without opening the flap, but is difficult. All materials have the high quality feel you want. The light has already been dropped and rolled around with the TF light.. all it had to show was bits of the TF's finish that rubbed onto it (which subsequently wiped off
) The internal construction has just as much attention to detail as the outside surface.
::Notes::
Comparison light is a Task Force 2c Cree on fresh C Alkalines. The M20 is running on a Tenergy 18650 2600mah. Camera is a Nikon D70s at f3.5 and whatever exposure is listed. This was my first time shooting manual mode, and there was some wonkiness (I believe due to inadvertently activating a shooting feature halfway through, exposure compensation was alternating shots). I reshot the indoor pics and got good results, but not the outdoor.
M20 vs TF2c on White Wall
TF2c (left) M20 (right)
*in this pic, the bezel is on the M20, notice the cren ring outside the corona. Spill is smaller with bezel on as well.
M20 vs TF2c - Indoor Hallway
Notice the difference in spill between the two. With the TF2c, the wild spill illuminates your immediate area, which reflects and illuminates you. Should you be clearing a dark building, this could be a hazard. The M20 clips it's spill very nicely in the useable feild. The bezel is off in this shot.
Outdoor ~50ft-60ft
*These pics are not equal.. I need to reshoot but can't do it right now, but they give a relative idea of outdoor performance.. The Top pic is the M20, 2 sec exposure, -0.33 EV. The bottom is the TF2c, 3 sec exposure, +0.33 EV. Essentially the TF2c got a good boost from camera settings.
Brightness level comparison.
LARGE version (just blown up) http://i467.photobucket.com/albums/rr39/PhilVTn/m20-brightnessLG.jpg
Will update later with some further distance shots, SMO, and the outdoor pic with identical settings.
Conclusions:
A small light that has the cutting edge performance you'd want in a quality light, with the strength to go toe to toe in close combat. The M20 is of excellent quality, and it's performance exceeds expectations on most fronts. Surefire quality, with current tech emitters.. puts out a blinding light from what feels like a roll of quarters in your hand. This light was intended to replace my TF2c as a LEO EDC, and will definitely fit the bill. I'm seriously considering getting another for mounting on a shotgun and/or rifle. As an LEO I *need* a sturdy, reliable light, and the Olight Warrior M20 is it.
Olight M20 Warrior (Premium R2)
Ergonomics: 4.5/5.0
This is my first 1" diameter tactical light.. it's very small in my large hands. I was expecting a slightly bigger light from the pictures that were available. The "feel" is good, it handles pretty well in the hand, heavy and well balanced with access to the switch unobstructed. Of note is the "rear strike bezel", and that it doesn't occlude the switch. The clip is a snap clip, so it popped right off. I wonder if it would be prone to coming off in this fashion being worn on a pocket and snagging on something.. saves the clip, but drops the light? The head twist mode changing is consistent, though not my personal preference (a two-handed tactical light). Every section of metal is optional.. the grip ring, the clip, the crenelated bezel.. are all removable. I found that simply removing the clip gave me a comfortable tactical grip, leaving the grip ring in place.
Photo Courtesy of Varuscelli
From Left to Right: NiteCore D10, SureFire 6P, Olight M20 Warrior, Fenix L2D, Dereelight DBS V2
Function 4.0/5.0
The Mode Pattern is High > Strobe > Low > Medium > High. It switches very cleanly and reliably, however, there's no way to change mode without the light being on. Accessing Low mode, you assume you'd want no bright light, but if you aren't in low, you have to snuff the head to avoid light contamination. Also, when in other modes, you have to cycle to get back to High. Depending on your needs and personal preference, this system is either perfect, or merely functional.
The switch feels like it can soft-press in constant on, and this would've been a nice place to access other functions. You can't knock the Tactical benefits of "set it, and forget it".. not worrying that your mode will accidentally change during a stressful encounter. I'm still looking for that ability to go "on" then pre-load strobe mode, so the next push is strobe (i.e. Gladius, First-light). Strobe is a facinating feature to me, and I'm trying to incorporate it's use in my work. Considering pure disorientation, I've not yet managed to get that from the M20's strobe from bounce.
It's tough to give a really good indication of the low.. I'd describe it as a very tolerable level.. close to that of a small keychain led. It's not painful to look straight into, and bounceback on paper up close (reading an address f.ex) doesn't mess with night vision. With a key benefit of still having throw. As someone else mentioned, low will still illuminate objects identifiably across the yard.
Medium mode is brighter than most stock lights, and seems like a very useful level.. the light would suit it's purpose fine without the step to high.
High, of course, is where this light shines... *crickets*... in high mode, the green tint becomes unnoticeable, the beam profile smooths out by brute force, and you get the throw you're looking for.
Beam: 4.3/5.0
White wall shows a little ringier beam than I anticipated. There's a distinct separation in the Corona with a warmer tint shift. I've got a SMO to drop in too, so we'll see just how bad the R2 might get. Very warm tint compared to my TF2c cree, and MUCH better beam obviously. The ss strike bezel also provides a beam ring just outside the corona, nothing destructive, but it's there. The Bezel also constrains the spillbeam a bit, but with a round profile, rather than cren. Outdoors, the beam provides good throw and spill, the tint providing a better color rendition than the TF2c. The difference in brightness was quite noticeable. Spill is very defined at it's edges. The hotspot on LOP is pleasing, with good definition and intensity.
Note: just tried to remove the LOP and was unsuccessful. It's fit pretty tight and I was afraid I was going to damage it, so that part is on hold till I get better info on removing it. Will update this section if it makes a great difference.
Link to fullsize beam profile.
http://i467.photobucket.com/albums/rr39/PhilVTn/m20-cren-full.jpg
Notice the neutral space between the green corona and a ring. This doesn't do jack to the beam in use, but it's visible on a white wall.
Finish: 4.8/5.0
HA is excellent. Lettering is extremely clean, as is all the milling. The threads look great and are oiled, however they do have a little grit in them. I fully expect them to clean out perfectly when I get a chance. The Holster feels sturdy, and will allow you to remove the light without a "velcro rip", replacement could be done without opening the flap, but is difficult. All materials have the high quality feel you want. The light has already been dropped and rolled around with the TF light.. all it had to show was bits of the TF's finish that rubbed onto it (which subsequently wiped off
) The internal construction has just as much attention to detail as the outside surface.::Notes::
- The reflector has proven difficult to remove (being careful of course), which has prevented me from testing the SMO reflector.
- On Medium and Low, the beam tint is quite green. Medium level is on par with my TF2c in output and ability.
Comparison light is a Task Force 2c Cree on fresh C Alkalines. The M20 is running on a Tenergy 18650 2600mah. Camera is a Nikon D70s at f3.5 and whatever exposure is listed. This was my first time shooting manual mode, and there was some wonkiness (I believe due to inadvertently activating a shooting feature halfway through, exposure compensation was alternating shots). I reshot the indoor pics and got good results, but not the outdoor.
M20 vs TF2c on White Wall
TF2c (left) M20 (right)
*in this pic, the bezel is on the M20, notice the cren ring outside the corona. Spill is smaller with bezel on as well.
M20 vs TF2c - Indoor Hallway
Notice the difference in spill between the two. With the TF2c, the wild spill illuminates your immediate area, which reflects and illuminates you. Should you be clearing a dark building, this could be a hazard. The M20 clips it's spill very nicely in the useable feild. The bezel is off in this shot.
Outdoor ~50ft-60ft
*These pics are not equal.. I need to reshoot but can't do it right now, but they give a relative idea of outdoor performance.. The Top pic is the M20, 2 sec exposure, -0.33 EV. The bottom is the TF2c, 3 sec exposure, +0.33 EV. Essentially the TF2c got a good boost from camera settings.
Brightness level comparison.
LARGE version (just blown up) http://i467.photobucket.com/albums/rr39/PhilVTn/m20-brightnessLG.jpg
Will update later with some further distance shots, SMO, and the outdoor pic with identical settings.
Conclusions:
A small light that has the cutting edge performance you'd want in a quality light, with the strength to go toe to toe in close combat. The M20 is of excellent quality, and it's performance exceeds expectations on most fronts. Surefire quality, with current tech emitters.. puts out a blinding light from what feels like a roll of quarters in your hand. This light was intended to replace my TF2c as a LEO EDC, and will definitely fit the bill. I'm seriously considering getting another for mounting on a shotgun and/or rifle. As an LEO I *need* a sturdy, reliable light, and the Olight Warrior M20 is it.
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