OLIGHT M20 WARRIOR SST50 TITANIUM LIMITED EDITION

[HKJ]

I do have one issues though. I don't feel like my M20 is as bright as it should be. I have the Jetbeam M1x, which is rated 400 Lumens out the front and it completely blows the M20 away. I compared it with the Surefire U2, which is rated for 100 lumens, and the M20 is only a tad brighter. I've tried running it on 1x18650, 2xCR123, 2xRCR123 and it doesn't make a difference. To me, it seems like the M20 is more in the 200ish lumens than 500. Did you guys feel the same way? Did I get a bad batch or is my eyes just going bad?

There is one thing wrong with you comparison, the M1X is a thrower (I do not know about the SF), it will always be brighter than other lights with same or even higher lumen rating. If you have a small room with white ceiling and walls, try shining the lights at the ceiling and look at the floor, this gives a much better comparison of lumen (But is not perfect).
If you look back in this thread you will see my take on the light output of the M20 Ti and if you look here you will see how it looks compares to some other lights.

 

[MattK]

I would also add that the Jetbeam M1X is rated at 700 lumens at the emitter and 450 out the front lumens - the 500 for the M20 Ti is at the emitter lumens (no rating for OTF - ~375-425 would be a good assumption allowing for optical loss and component variation)so it's not suprising the M1X is much brighter. Also, the M1X has a huge reflector and lense - they will be much more optically efficient than a small lense and reflector like on the M20. Also, the larger reflector is better and collecting and focusing the light into a tighter beam. I'm not sure of the reflector diameters but the M1X is like the TK40 I think - ~65mm and the M20 is ~35mm - 3CM is a big difference.

 

[xcel730]

HKJ, thanks for the link. Very nice comparison.

Matt, thanks for the quick response.

I just wanted to be sure that I didn't just happened to stumbled upon a bad batch. It's a beautiful light and definitely a keeper. 😀

 

[Metatron]

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[tab665]

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[jahxman]

Number 333 of 500 is here! I love my serial #!

I'll try to take a few pics tomorrow, and maybe a beamshot or two.

For tonight, I did a bunch of quick and dirty ceiling bounce readings to get a sense of the output:

As you can see, the M20 Ti SST-50 ceiling bounce output is higher than all the other single die lights, and lower than all the multi-dies (and the ROP) except for the DX MC-E drop-in.

Actually it's about what I expected and I am quite pleased with it, the beam is quite beautiful. I find I prefer the OP reflector, the SMO when screwed all the way in creates some chromatic separation in the middle of the hotspot; backing it out a little fixes this somewhat.

One puzzle is how I'm supposed to attach the included lanyard; the clip can't fit in the lanyard hole on the light, and no intermediate ring was provided. I attached a black leather lanyard that I had and it works well.

Overall, very pleased with my M20 Ti SST-50 #333 !:twothumbs:twothumbs:twothumbs

 

[applevision]

Number 333 of 500 is here! I love my serial #!

As you can see, the M20 Ti SST-50 ceiling bounce output is higher than all the other single die lights, and lower than all the multi-dies (and the ROP) except for the DX MC-E drop-in.


Overall, very pleased with my M20 Ti SST-50 #333 !:twothumbs:twothumbs:twothumbs

Wow! Thank you so much for this jahxman!--what an amazing chart! I so love these, though "quick and dirty" perhaps, they tell us so much about the lights!
lovecpflovecpflovecpf

 

[Metatron]

i decided that 340 lumens was just a total waste of time and have rigged it for direct drive with an IMR pushing it. this flashlight now may claim to be one, prior to this it was just a bonnet ornament.😉

 

[easilyled]

i decided that 340 lumens was just a total waste of time and have rigged it for direct drive with an IMR pushing it. this flashlight now may claim to be one, prior to this it was just a bonnet ornament.😉

I'd love to see a runtime chart. ie output vs. time.

In the non-adulterated version this would hopefully be a near horizontal line.

In your version I would expect output to drop pretty quickly.

 

[jahxman]

I'd love to see a runtime chart. ie output vs. time.

In the non-adulterated version this would hopefully be a near horizontal line.

In your version I would expect output to drop pretty quickly.

Yeah, I wonder how well the heat sinking would keep up on direct drive off an IMR. It does appear the Olight went with a copper heat sink inside the titanium tube; I'm sure this helps but it is still limited by the size of the light, and I would expect the light to get too hot to hold in a fairly short time on DD.

 

[Metatron]

Yeah, I wonder how well the heat sinking would keep up on direct drive off an IMR. It does appear the Olight went with a copper heat sink inside the titanium tube; I'm sure this helps but it is still limited by the size of the light, and I would expect the light to get too hot to hold in a fairly short time on DD.

I expect you are correct easilyled, as for the heatsink, well, its paper thin and may not perform overly well, so this light will remain a 'shock and awe' light.

 

[ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond]

Well I just received mine from Mike at Battery Junction and I couldn't be happier. The light and the build is beautiful. A little too much lube on the threads but that was an easy fix.

I've compared it against a TK40, SuperStorm, M2XC4 - warm, Fox-1 and T20C2 - neutral. I think I can agree with most of the above statements about brightness, but I think this is one of the nicest lights I have ever had. It really fits almost perfectly what I have been looking for in a light for almost 90% of my personal usage.

Lo could be a touch lower, but med and hi are perfect. No 500 Lum for sure but with a bigger spot and more brightness in the flood it is comparable (as mentioned above) with the TK40 on max. Color is a little cooler than the TK40 but still nice and warm with the OP reflector.

I put on the smooth reflector and I didn't like the beam. Too blue in the center and green around the edges. A lot of artifacts all over the place. Better throw but not worth the distortions.

I did some measurements of battery voltage and amps running rcr123s and a 18650: (run on Hi for about 2-3 minutes)

2 x rcr123
before V:8.15
after V: 8.03
Average V: 8.09
Amps: 0.765

Battery = 750 mAh, .75*60/.765 = 58.8 minutes

Average Power = 6.19W

1 x 18650
before V: 4.17
after V: 4.14
Average V: 4.155
Amps: 1.45

Average Power = 6.02W

Battery = 2600 mAh, 2.60*60/1.45 = 1 hr 47 minutes

Nothing truely scientific about my measurements but it shows that on a fresh 18650 there is only about ~3% difference in power running through the light.

I like the UI but wish there was a way to skip strobe. Also wish I could do a tailstand.

Overall - 4.5 out of 5 for me. 😀

 

[PhantomPhoton]

I'd love to see a runtime chart. ie output vs. time.

In the non-adulterated version this would hopefully be a near horizontal line.

In your version I would expect output to drop pretty quickly.

Actually I doubt the non-adulterated version has flat regulation for very long with an 18650 cell. But I'd be happy to see a runtime graph prove me wrong... If anyone has seen one that I've missed please point me to it.

 

[easilyled]

Actually I doubt the non-adulterated version has flat regulation for very long with an 18650 cell. But I'd be happy to see a runtime graph prove me wrong... If anyone has seen one that I've missed please point me to it.

No, that's true but I was talking about using the non-adulterated one with 2 CR123s or RCR123s since that is what it takes to provide regulation according to the specs.

Obviously with an 18650, one would expect it to drop although since its not direct drive, it should drop more slowly than one in direct drive which should plummet due to the excessive heat produced.

 

[ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond]

No, that's true but I was talking about using the non-adulterated one with 2 CR123s or RCR123s since that is what it takes to provide regulation according to the specs.

Obviously with an 18650, one would expect it to drop although since its not direct drive, it should drop more slowly than one in direct drive which should plummet due to the excessive heat produced.

Speaking of heat I have a question for you guys, if you know....

When I run the M20 Ti on 2 x RCR123 the light is visibly a touch brighter than 18650. Runtime just under 1 hour on constant. The light gets pretty hot around the head are after about 10 -15 minutes.

When I run with a 18650 I get almost 2 hours and the head of the light never becomes more than warm.

So what is causing this extra heat? Is it the higher constant Amps running through the head or does the buck circuit have to drop the extra voltage and do so across resistance in the form of heat (that seems very old school before the days of switching power supplies).

 

[LumensMaximus]

Finally received mine but couldn't seem to get it to fire on high beam, just low and medium. Changed batteries and same result, also thought I had a dud, changed batteries a second time and she finally came to life. Pretty bright and very nice beam, however the real reason I made the purchase was it's titanium and limited. It may take a little while but eventually they will be all gone. Alot of ti for the money. :devil:

 

[Xak]

I wonder if the M20 would work better with the XPG R4.

 

[MrGman]

Well I just received mine from Mike at Battery Junction and I couldn't be happier. The light and the build is beautiful. A little too much lube on the threads but that was an easy fix.

I've compared it against a TK40, SuperStorm, M2XC4 - warm, Fox-1 and T20C2 - neutral. I think I can agree with most of the above statements about brightness, but I think this is one of the nicest lights I have ever had. It really fits almost perfectly what I have been looking for in a light for almost 90% of my personal usage.

Lo could be a touch lower, but med and hi are perfect. No 500 Lum for sure but with a bigger spot and more brightness in the flood it is comparable (as mentioned above) with the TK40 on max. Color is a little cooler than the TK40 but still nice and warm with the OP reflector.

I put on the smooth reflector and I didn't like the beam. Too blue in the center and green around the edges. A lot of artifacts all over the place. Better throw but not worth the distortions.

I did some measurements of battery voltage and amps running rcr123s and a 18650: (run on Hi for about 2-3 minutes)

2 x rcr123
before V:8.15
after V: 8.03
Average V: 8.09
Amps: 0.765

Battery = 750 mAh, .75*60/.765 = 58.8 minutes

Average Power = 6.19W

1 x 18650
before V: 4.17
after V: 4.14
Average V: 4.155
Amps: 1.45

Average Power = 6.02W

Battery = 2600 mAh, 2.60*60/1.45 = 1 hr 47 minutes

Nothing truely scientific about my measurements but it shows that on a fresh 18650 there is only about ~3% difference in power running through the light.

I like the UI but wish there was a way to skip strobe. Also wish I could do a tailstand.

Overall - 4.5 out of 5 for me. 😀

If I read this correctly the voltage numbers are open circuit before and after and not under load. they don't reflect the sag in voltage under direct load at the time so the calculated power numbers can't really be as close to the truth as they should be and the comparison of power levels using the 2 batteries versus 1X18650 is probably a greater difference than what is shown as well.

this probably explains shineonyoucrazydiamonds experience with the unit not being as bright or getting as hot with just an 18650 battery.

Taking before and after voltage readings of the battery and calculating the average is not nearly as accurate as measuring the actual voltage drop under load, because batteries recover under no load condition to a higher voltage which is misleading. G.

 

[ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond]

If I read this correctly the voltage numbers are open circuit before and after and not under load. they don't reflect the sag in voltage under direct load at the time so the calculated power numbers can't really be as close to the truth as they should be and the comparison of power levels using the 2 batteries versus 1X18650 is probably a greater difference than what is shown as well.

this probably explains shineonyoucrazydiamonds experience with the unit not being as bright or getting as hot with just an 18650 battery.

Taking before and after voltage readings of the battery and calculating the average is not nearly as accurate as measuring the actual voltage drop under load, because batteries recover under no load condition to a higher voltage which is misleading. G.

I don't disagree with your comment about voltage under load, but I was using AW cells to support not too much V dip under load. Also these cell are only being driven at around .6C on the 18650 which shouldn't really cause a big V dip under load. I only have one multi-meter so I didn't have any way to record V and A at the same time. I took the after V measurement right after turning the light off so recovery, although present, should be minimal.

I'll see what I can do to take some more accurate readings under load but I don't expect too much of a change.

At anything under 1C I don't believe a LiIon cell will produce a big V dip of more than .1 or .2 volts. At least not a good cell. I run massive 6S1P LiPo cells in my RC cars which can pull 20C continuous and 30-35C burst pushing 1000-2000 watts and I only see 0.5-0.7 drops on these cells. I'm sure my numbers aren't too far off.

 

[HKJ]

I'll see what I can do to take some more accurate readings under load but I don't expect too much of a change.

You readings are close to the ones I published in post #143, that was a sweep from 2.6 volt to 9 volt. You also has to be aware that the current depends on the temperature of the led and driver.