Olight Progression

LEDBE
Buff

Buff

Enlightened
CPF Supporter
Joined
Dec 21, 2023
Messages
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Location
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As always when considering starting to collect something i start searching/researching the rabbit hole i'm about to fall into.
Olight seems to be a mystery to me. My first was a Baton Turbo followed by a Baton 4. Watching reviews i learned there were earlier Batons also Warriors and i assume Seekers. I find that interesting so i press on.
I just received a couple S1R Baton II's. Not sure what the S1R indicates and was there just a Baton then Baton II maybe a III or 3 as the 4 isn't a IV?
So many questions.
And the S1R Baton II must be a updated light because it's almost the exact same light (apart from the button and battery orientation) as the Baton 4 but in my opinion the S1R is the better light.
Once i learn what older lights are possibly available on the used market i will consider expanding my collection. Or i might just enjoy the newer lights i have acquired.
The purpose of starting this thread is to learn as much as i can about Olight from those that, like me have found great enjoyment out of using them often.
image.jpg

IMG_9307.jpeg
 
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Correction is in order.
I said in my first post that the S1R Baton II is a
better light than the Baton 4 mainly because on turbo it performs much better and brighter with a more defined image. It didn’t make sense that a 1000 lume light was better/brighter than a 1200 lume light?
Well i charge the Baton 4 and now it is on par or slightly brighter that the S1R. Seems the level of charge can affect the performance ? So in conclusion i am well pleased with both lights.
 
Hey @Buff I'm still rocking an Olight M30 Triton in the console of my car. Old school MCE-E led with 3 CR123 primaries.
Those old ones were pretty sweet. I still have an M31 as well with the big old turbohead looking reflector still with an SST-50 in it. I might still mod that with an updated LED and driver and run it on 2 18650's.
 
Olight has never been a top 5 brand in my book but then again I didn't "collect" lights I bought tools to fill a job. A "collection" was built thru trial n error. Many / most of my lights use an Anduril interface. Hank lights make up many of these as you can order his work with so many different set-ups / features. I have a "core" of go to lights, with WAAAAAYYYY to many back-up lights on a shelf. Two of my Olight lights fit in the role of loaners or lights I use when the light "might" be at high risk of damage / loss. Not my favorite(s) but trustworthy in a get a job done sense. Olight does like to make ltd# fancy finish designs for their collector base, something that I own zero of in any light / maker model.
 
Patiently waiting for your review of the Olight Marauder., down the road. :grin2:
 
Marauder Mini if that makes any sense? A mini to me is something you be can drop in your pocket in a pinch. This not that.
image.jpg

I keep it on a table next to my front door to preform dog duty. It claims 10,000 lumens and honestly it is super bright lighting up the whole front or even bigger backyard. It’s easy to switch from flood to throw and that too is amazingly bright but not 10,000lm. Still plenty of throw but substantially less over powering. Glad i got it on the sale as i don’t think i would pay $200 for this light even though it’s well made. The battery is a beast and expensive to replace.
image.jpg

Hope this has been helpful.
 
Looked it up. It’s 7,000 lumens not 10,000 in flood mode and 900lm in spot mode. Seems low as i have lights in the 1290-1750 range that the Marauder in spot way out performs? Very concentrated beam for sure.
 
Buff said:
As always when considering starting to collect something i start searching/researching the rabbit hole i'm about to fall into.
Olight seems to be a mystery to me. My first was a Baton Turbo followed by a Baton 4. Watching reviews i learned there were earlier Batons also Warriors and i assume Seekers. I find that interesting so i press on.
I just received a couple S1R Baton II's. Not sure what the S1R indicates and was there just a Baton then Baton II maybe a III or 3 as the 4 isn't a IV?
So many questions.
And the S1R Baton II must be a updated light because it's almost the exact same light (apart from the button and battery orientation) as the Baton 4 but in my opinion the S1R is the better light.
Once i learn what older lights are possibly available on the used market i will consider expanding my collection. Or i might just enjoy the newer lights i have acquired.
The purpose of starting this thread is to learn as much as i can about Olight from those that, like me have found great enjoyment out of using them often. View attachment 70927
View attachment 70933
Click to expand...
Hi. First there was the S1, CR123A cell.

Then the first rechargeable version came out, the S1R. It had problems as did a few following versions like the Baton Turbo. When the S1R Baton II came out they finally had it nailed. Perhaps it was this light with magnetic charging that made many a user for Olight.

They sent me a Ti blue one with my name on it as a gift. And I thought, why not buy the 5 collector versions, and I did and I was a collector. Spreadsheet says I have 1,254 Olights.

The Baton 3 came next. As always for new versions, 100 lumens brighter. Some new features and a Premium version that comes with a pocket "wireless" charger.

And now the Baton 4 is out, more features, 100 lumens more.

So which out of the 225 batons do I carry? An S1R Baton II, black aluminum with rainbow clip. If you have an Al S1R II you can turn the tail an 1/8th of a turn to disable the light. When ready to use, 1/8 turn and press the button. Back to the pocket just the 1/8 turn. Yes I can hold down the button for a while to moonlight the hold longer to lock. Thanks anyway, 1/8 turn will do me.

The Al S1RII had the end face of the barrel make contact so the electrical connection was just this surface. Cheapo makers often use the threads for contact. The S1RII in other metals did conduct thru the threads, so this trick doesn't work with them. Nor does this trick work in the Baton 3 & 4 because the make contact to both sides of the battery up top, no power currents in the threads.

That is why I use the Al model. I carry a black one because I lose it a few times a year, easy to find one used. But a brightly colored one like Lava would be harder to lose? Yeah, I'll let you know if I every find mine. I have found one trick to try and keep it. I put a 4" tail of paracord one the light, Day-glow/UV and also retro-reflective. It keeps it visible, still small and comfy in my pocket, the cord helps to easily find it when I reach In.
 
I swore i was done buying Olight for awhile but…
For me it’s their damn innovation that keeps me coming back for more.
IMG_0430.jpeg

Such useful tools and so much fun using them.
The Clipit pro is my latest.
Not looking to collect 2000 Olights but having extras end up as gifts.
 
In my opinion, their highest utility lights are the Imini 2 and the Oclip pro...I'm hoping they do a High CRI version of the Oclip Pro, with a UV LED instead of red, and bring back the red auxiliary peripheral LEDs. That would be awesome for pseudo-professional work...UV for dye detection, high cri flood and throw for wiring or wound identification, the red for signaling or low light, accessible from off in the UV mode with a long click or double click...it would be one of, if not THE most versatile light on the planet.

Ui would generally be the same too...

General instructions:
1) Click for on, click again for off, last mode memory applied for High CRI modes besides strobe.
2) For ANY switch position when light is off, triple click activates strobe on max. Turning off the strobe will default to last non-strobe non-red mode used.
2a) Double click from strobe on goes to Medium or UV, depending on selector switch position.

Selector Switch P1-High CRI Flood----
1) From off, long press for moonlight
2) Hold for cycle between Low,Med,High
3) Double click for turbo, double click from turbo back to Med
4) While on, triple click for beacon group
4a) Long press in beacon group to cycle beacon low/high, and SOS low/high
4b) While in beacon group, double click to return to main group Med.

SSP2- High CRI Throw-------------
Same operation as flood

SSP3- UV/Aux Red--------------
1)Click for UV, only one mode, max. Click again for off.
1a) while UV on, double click switches to red modes, default red low.
1b) While UV off, a long press activates red low.
2)While in red modes, single clicks will turn the light off and default back to UV mode.
2a) In red mode, long press will cycle red low/med/high
2b) In red mode, double click will switch between red blinker group and standard red group
2c) Long press in Red blinker group cycles red beacon low, and red beacon high.
2z) Red mode will be disabled any time it is switched off from, whether clicked or selector switch.
 
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