Gotcha, I just know nothing about the different coatings and materials. Any help would be appreciated.^ Well, if you have a ruler handy just measure your lens. Someone already pointed out "flashlightlens.com".
^ Basically, you want an anti-reflective coating, preferably both sides. There's different types of glass available. UCL is recognized as one of the best. You can also go with polymer/plastic, for better shatter resistance but more scratch prone.
Sapphire would be the best, but it's extremely expensive (hence why you tend to find them only in the more expensive custom flashlights).
Flashlightlens has an excellent reputation, so I'd trust that the tint will be mostly neutral. But anyway, I didn't know that the S10 lens is 19mm... you're right, that size isn't available through Flashlightlens. There are other channels, though. I just did a quick Google search and found one at Kai Domain (19mm X 1.5mm). Or perhaps Thrunite sells spare lenses for the Archer 1C.BUT, how do we know if the anti-reflective coatings on the new lens will be any different than what's on the stock S10 lens? My S10 tint sure looks better without the lens. With the lens, it's a yellowish/greenish tint. Without the lens, it's basically white. I measured the lens on my S10 and its 19mm diameter. It was thicker than 1mm but not 2mm, so I'm guessing 1.5mm thick.
I also ordered the 19mm x 1.5mm lens from Kai Domain after finding it myself through a Google search. They were cheap enough, so I ordered a couple. I'll also see how that turns out.
an emiter swap is realy easy on this light if u can solder and reflow a led.
step 1: get a pair pf needle nose pliers to unsrew the bezel. (wich is prety loose)
step 2: take a battery and push it in the battery tube till the lens pops out.
step 3: push the reflector back in with the battery to get the red o ring out
step 4: push out the "drop in" using the same methode as step 2.
step 5: unscrew the reflector and take out the anoying piece of black plastic (wich centers the led and is a pain to get back in) and unsolder the 2 wires from the pcb and take the pcb out.
hope this helps good luck
My S10 has a 219 as well, and it's spot on.
My problem is: I carry it with my kays and one of them sliced up the rubber button! Has anyone else had this happen?
The tint is much better now. It's still yellow, but much less so. I think part of the problem is that at 1.5 amps, there just isn't enough current to drive an XML or XML2 hard enough to get to the point where the tint looks pure white. Underdriven XMLs just have ugly tints.