Olight Titaninum Infinitum Limited Edition Registry

44/200 over here in switzerland
f045.gif
 
albino said:
44/200 over here in switzerland
f045.gif
Click to expand...

A long time from 042 to 044... 😀

I just compared 042 to 124 : 042 has a higher low than 124 but to be nice, it also offers a lower high! :faint:

It isn't the battery, I swapped them, same result. The difference is not that big, but you clearly see it. I just can guess the Lumen, 20 perhaps.

The head of 124 has about 0,3 millimeters space to the body, you see brass in between, doesn't look nice, a lack of precision. 042 fits tight, the light looks perfect.

The beamcolor is the ame for both, nearly perfect white, a light shift to the yellowish side perhaps, but very nice.

Not a review, only a few facts. I like the lights, though they are not perfect! I just hope the UI doesn't quit working, 042 just needed a second attempt to ramp down again...
 
Henk_Lu said:
.... 042 just needed a second attempt to ramp down again...
Click to expand...

Mine (127/200) tends to refuse ramping if the threads of the head carry too much silicone. I have noted that if I just lube the o-ring the light works perfectly well while if there is silicone on the threads or actually too much of it, the operation becomes somewhat uncertain.
It is exactly the same thing that happens with my NDI and for both lights the solution is to keep the threads free from silicone.
 
Kilovolt said:
Mine (127/200) tends to refuse ramping if the threads of the head carry too much silicone. I have noted that if I just lube the o-ring the light works perfectly well while if there is silicone on the threads or actually too much of it, the operation becomes somewhat uncertain.
It is exactly the same thing that happens with my NDI and for both lights the solution is to keep the threads free from silicone.
Click to expand...


That's very odd. I just tried to really goop up all the threads on my Infinitum, to the point of it squishing out everywhere! lol, and I could not reproduce your symptoms. I first cleaned off my Krytox and then applied Nyogel 760 and it worked perfectly. I then dug out my Dow Corning 111 and tried it too, no difference, worked fine. You might think about chucking that "silicone" and getting something better.

Try some of THIS for thread lube and you'll never have to worry about continuity problems again. I personally prefer Krytox on Ti but most people cringe at the price. 😱oo:


..and for all the sickos that will ask, it's perfectly safe for O-rings!
 
Re:Krytox

Armed_Forces said:
I personally prefer Krytox on Ti but most people cringe at the price. 😱oo: ..and for all the sickos that will ask, it's perfectly safe for O-rings!
Click to expand...
Armed_Forces,

Thanks for the heads-up on Krytox®. Just finished reading about it on the DuPont™ website and it sounds like the ideal lube for threads and o-rings ... and a host of other applications.

I think I'll purchase a small amount of product. Again, thanks a lot for bringing it to our attention. :thumbsup:

-Clive
 
Clive,

You might want to consider purchasing a custom blended Krytox lube from the Sandwich Shoppe.

I've never tried theirs because I have my own, but I thought I would link that because it's sometimes hard to find Krytox in small quantities.
 
099 added! 🙂 Also I noticed at the MarktPlace a change of ownership for 096. I'll give the new owner (madi05) a chance to post here before I edit the registry, but if he doesn't, I'll PM him.
 
Armed_Forces said:
Try some of THIS for thread lube and you'll never have to worry about continuity problems again. I personally prefer Krytox on Ti but most people cringe at the price. 😱oo:
Click to expand...

+1 for Krytox, get the mix from the Shoppe - a teflon-based lubricant is pretty much mandatory for Ti. A small container will last you for the life of your light if not longer.

Also, I have read many, many, many a lube thread and one thing that there seems to be some concensus about is that conductive lubricants are totally unnecessary, and in some cases dangerous for flashlight applications (potential to cause unwanted electrical contact). Steer clear of these, imo.
 
Hello everyone, I'm the lucky owner of #36 of 200. It's my EDC light and I love it. Thanks for all the great knowledge that gets passed around in this forum! With your help I've gone from a mag-lite affectionado to a flashaholic in just a few months. And now I've mod'd all the maglites in the house too.
 
AvidHiker said:
+1 for Krytox, get the mix from the Shoppe - a teflon-based lubricant is pretty much mandatory for Ti. A small container will last you for the life of your light if not longer.

Also, I have read many, many, many a lube thread and one thing that there seems to be some concensus about is that conductive lubricants are totally unnecessary, and in some cases dangerous for flashlight applications (potential to cause unwanted electrical contact). Steer clear of these, imo.
Click to expand...


I was hoping someone would bring that up.
I've read many a thread on lube since discovering this site (whether I wanted to or not
xp66if.jpg
) and there seems to be some confusion regarding "conductive" lubricants. The one I linked doesn't have any metals in it nor is the grease itself conductive. What it does, that's especially important with regards to aluminum, is breakdown/prevent the oxide layer from degrading the electrical pathway.
Incase nobody bothered to read the link..

Quote:
"SPECIFIC ALUMINUM CABLE APPLICATION
When splicing aluminum cable with compression-type connectors, brush NO-OX-ID A-Special to the inside surfaces of the connector. Using a wire brush, brush these inside surfaces through the through the A-Special coating. This roughs up the surface assuring positive contact. At the same time the NO-OX-ID A-Special is providing protection against the oxide film, that can occur in the short space of time between roughing up the surface and final connection. Apply a thin coat of NO-OX-ID A-Special to cable ends to complete the splice to prevent aluminum rust.

Falicy of adding metals to increase Conductivity:
Many contact greases have copper, zinc or other metals blended into a grease to increase conductivity. In a study for an aerospace company in 1985 it was concluded that putting a metal into grease does not help conductivity. In many cases it reduces conductivity. The United States Department of the Interior Bureau of Reclamation in their Facilities instruction Journal Volume 3-3 Electrical Connections for power circuits states in Sec. 6.3.2 that "Use of grease with embedded zinc particles will cause a poorer connection due to the lower conductivity of zinc".

Aluminum Oxide is one of the hardest substances known to man, just softer than diamonds. How can a metal as soft as Zinc cut through it? It can't! Zinc metal can not dissolve aluminum oxide either. The aluminum oxide that typically forms on an aluminum connection is only 50-120 angstroms thick. Sanchem's NO-OX-ID penetrates the oxide film by the chemical action of our corrosion inhibitor system.

NO-OX-ID A-Special Electrical is an USDA approved conductive grease compound and rust preventive that prevent corrosion and lubricates electrical connections. Other NO-OX-ID electrically conductive grease and conductive lubricants include NO-OX-ID "A", NO-OX-ID "A-Special 200" and NO-OX-ID "E". "



I'm a little surprised that No-Ox-Id has not been mentioned on this site before nor been recommended. I've been using it on Maglites since day one to very good effect. I've "fixed" many friends/relatives/neighbors/etc. aluminum flashlights that flicker or have dimming problems with a good cleaning/application of this grease to any bare threads. Way back in the day, I used to use Molykote 111 on all my Surefire and dive lights/gear before I discovered Krytox and Nyogel. Dow Corning also has a fluorosilicone grease FS1292 that would be excellent for flashlights or any other application involving an O-ring, but for the cheapies this stuff does fine.
 
Last edited:
Armed_Forces said:
Clive,

You might want to consider purchasing a custom blended Krytox lube from the Sandwich Shoppe.

I've never tried theirs because I have my own, but I thought I would link that because it's sometimes hard to find Krytox in small quantities.
Click to expand...
Armed_Forces,
Thanks a lot for providing the link to the 5cc_Krytox_50/50 custom blend lubricant -- I really appreciate it! :goodjob: :thanks:
I haven't as yet compared its specs to those of the ol' faithful NyoGel_760G that I've been using for the past several years. NyoGel has worked beautifully, but if Krytox is even better -- then it'll be my next go-to o-ring and thread lube.

Thanks again for your very much appreciated input!

Cheers!

-Clive
 
Last edited:
Armed_Forces said:
NO-OX-ID A-Special Electrical is an USDA approved conductive grease compound and rust preventive that prevent corrosion and lubricates electrical connections.
Click to expand...
Hello Armed_Forces,

For antenna and grounding applications, I've used Ideal Noalox® (Zinc dust suspension | MSDS) and Burndy Penetrox_A (Zinc particle suspension | MSDS) when joining aluminum to aluminum tubing sections, copper to copper and dissimilar metals (copper to aluminum), the latter to prevent Galvanic reactions. The stuff displaces moisture and prevents corrosion and oxidation...and makes disassembling all of the aforementioned stuff a BREEZE!

I don't think the suspending agent (the 'goop') would be as good as Krytox or NyoGel as far as lubricity is concerned, however I'm not certain of this.

Again, thank you for supplying us with such detailed info on the subject!!!

Very Best Regards,

-Clive
 
AA6TZ said:
Armed_Forces,
Thanks a lot for providing the link to the 5cc_Krytox_50/50 custom blend lubricant -- I really appreciate it! :goodjob: :thanks:
I haven't as yet compared its specs to those of the ol' faithful NyoGel_760G that I've been using for the past several years. NyoGel has worked beautifully, but if Krytox is even better -- then it'll be my next go-to o-ring and thread lube.
-Clive
Click to expand...

Nyogel is typically recommended for aluminum threads and is silicone-based. If you search around a bit you'll find that teflon-based lubricant (e.g., Krytox) is preferred by owners of titanium lights (I have 3 myself:devil🙂. IIRC, this is because titanium threads are very prone to galling and stiction. Application of teflon is an effective means of preventing this.
Enjoy the new light!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

P
Olight i5R high CRI
Replies
6
Views
1K
dc38
dc38
J
Olight i3e, stock and modded
2
Replies
24
Views
3K
vicv
vicv
wolfy
Just upgraded/repaired my old Olight SR90 (SBT90.2)
Replies
7
Views
874
Karin
K
E
Olight Warrior X (the OG model) question
Replies
3
Views
825
DoctorMemory
DoctorMemory
S
Olight throwers comparison?
Replies
4
Views
2K
Monocrom
Monocrom

Latest posts

Back
Top