One question before I !"@% up my scorpion lamp...

AlexGT

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jan 15, 2001
Messages
3,651
Location
Houston, Texas
How do I remove the reflector assembly from the bezel ? is it by removing the lens, this is the logical way because from the other end the reflector just doesn´t fit, does the lens screws into place or is it inserted by presure.

if your wondering why do i want to do this is because I am desiging a led/xenon flashlight (best of both worlds) and want to do some dimensioning of the area before I machine it (wish me luck).

Anyway if I do @!"#$ the lamp where could I buy another bezel assembly ?

Thnx for any advise, I´ll keep you guys informed of my progress or my !"#$ new scorpion lamp wich ever comes first :)

AlexGT
 
hahaha.....

I do not know the answer to your question.

I just took my Scorpion apart, it looks like the lens is superglued to the bezel from the outside.

Taking the reflector out would cost the life of one Scorpion bezel assembly.

Buy another Scorpion and kill it on purpose?

hehehe.....
 
The reflector of the Scorpion looks frosted.

That frosting is probably what gives that "perfect beam" of light, with no dark spots? Kinda like the (dead)fires?

hehehe
 
hehehe.....just teasing...

"I" feel surefires are way over-hyped, way over-priced, too expensive to use daily like I would use any light (lithiums batteries), sensitive to drops, shocks, bumps and recoil. The lamp assemblies are $20.00 per unit (highway robbery & absurd). They are not even waterproof, let alone recoil proof. I have read many posts on the net with regard to (dead)fires. After x amount of negative reviews, you start to see a pattern of repeating re-occuring problems.

They are really NEAT, very BRIGHT but not a rational mans choice unless the department is covering the costs of lithiums and lamp assemblies?

I know everybody "LOVES them", sorry I don't.

Your mileage may vary, just my opinion.
 
NiMH,
Break a lamp module in a new M2, and I'll buy you a new one.
I've not been able break one yet, and I've done things to it that would make most flashaholics cry.

BTW, what units did you have recoil-based failures with?

It's possible to get a P60 Lamp Module for $15 or less if you use [law enforcement?] to get a discount, which lots of places offer, not just Botach.
$35 for 12 DL132As is $2.92 each before any discount...

I'm not going to go off on a "SureFire is Great" right now(!)

Back on Topic:
AlexGT,

Sounds cool what you want to do with a Scorpion. Please keep us updated as to your progress! The Scorpions are cheap enough for you to sacrifice one - Go for it!

Al
 
NiMH,
Have you noticed that Surefire makes rechargeable lights?
smile.gif
They eliminate the problem of the expensive lithium batteries. The Scorpion falls into the same category as the lithium powered Surefires. Two batteries per hour gets expensive in any light. There is no other light that is both as bright AND as small as Surefires. Sure Streamlight makes the SL20, and SL35, but those are huge and heavy. The Scorpion by the way does have dark spots and rings. At least the dozen or so that I've seen do. Maybe they've changed reflectors recently?

AlexGt,
Have you tried Streamlight for a bezel assembly? Maybe they would be willing to sell you one directly or point you to a source to buy one. Let us know how this goes.
 
I wanted a Surefire 8X411 with rapid charger, they were almost $200.00 per unit. (Robbery & absurd)

Everybody that has had a 6R, said they could not hold a charge. They all hated their 6R's.

Now that the 8NX Commander is out at a good price, I was going to buy one. BUT I tested one and it was not any brighter than a 6P, maybe even less bright? I have read that these things are not even water proof at a "half-inch" of water depth. The water is getting into the bezel & in the reflector. Not acceptable for my uses.

People at the range during "recoil" have killed their Surefires lamps that are mounted to their weapons during recoil. Not acceptable.

I know one guy that bounced into a door frame as he was walking out of the room, and it killed his lamp. Not Acceptable

All the complaining on the net on various boards just reinforces these weaknesses.

Now, if I am not using Nicads or NiMH then I am using Alkalines at about 0.80 cents per unit with a burn time of four hours per unit.

The Lithiums are expensive even on SALE with very short burn time, not cost effective for a "frequent user".

The "lamp assemblies" are way over priced.

On the flip side, Surefires are very BRIGHT & very cool. Surefires DO have the BEST beam patterns as far as it being "clean" and pure.

Thanks.
 
Thanks for give some details.
I'm still not sure which models were damaged by recoil. SureFire's dedicated WeaponLights should not do this. However, if you mount a 6P on a machinegun etc, it will not take the recoil. It's not designed to!

The Nitrolon Polymer SureFires are NOT designed to be waterproof.
I have no experience with SureFire rechargeables so I can not comment on the batteries not holding charge. Technology moves forward however, and I've never heard of this issue before.

SureFires aren't meant to be much brighter then each other! The rating of Lumens is more of amount of light rather than intensity of light. The M2 P61 (120Lu) is about as bright as the M6 MN21 (500Lu), because both have brilliant white beams. The difference is that the M6 puts out so much more light. A larger beam. The difference between the 6R and the 8NX may not be that much at close range.

Contact SureFire and talk to them about getting a waterproof flashlight. The 8AX or 9AN maybe available direct from SureFire tested by them to be waterproof.

I know one guy who walked into a door lintle and knocked himself out. It was NOT ACCEPTABLE that I cut my head, and was very pissed off!
Did "God" see the problem and release a new series of humans - shock isolated against knocks and falls? Unlike "God", SureFire
have improved on their designs and significantly improved the reliability of their flashlights.


Please can you let me know where these other forums are?

You end by stating that SureFires are very bright. Some day, you may regret not having a SureFire when you really need to see.

Al.
 
What I said was based on my range experiences, my friends experiences and information read on numerous BBS. You are taking this personally. Why?


This nonsense you wrote here.........

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>I know one guy who walked into a door lintle and knocked himself out. It was NOT ACCEPTABLE that I cut my head, and was very pissed off! Did "God" see the problem and release a new series of humans - shock isolated against knocks and falls? Unlike "God", SureFire have improved on their designs and significantly improved the reliability of their flashlights.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

.....proves that you can re-write what I said, to meet your needs to win an argument.


None of my personal lights will "blow a lamp" because they hit a door frame or if they are dropped, bounced & kicked.

I am telling you what happened, I was there & I am also telling you what I've read & heard. It is not my job to persuade you either way.

You believe what you want till you get a cozy warm feeling that everything is wonderful again. Then you know the meds have kicked in.

I will believe what I have read, seen & heard.


Just for YOUR benefit, Surefires never BLOW lamps for no apparent reason, they NEVER fail after shotgun RECOIL blasts, they ARE WATERPROOF, the "lithium" batteries are very CHEAP to buy, the lamp assemblies are even CHEAPER to buy. What did I leave out? Oh yes, all Law Enforcement, the Military and all civilians LOVE them because they are 100% reliable thus their name SURE...fire.


What I say, is my "opinion". Does it count? Does your opinion count?

Is everything right in YOUR perfect world again?

Nappy time?
 
OK, OK, to each his/her own. I think if you want a small light that gets used less than 10 min a day the Surefire is the way to go. Or if you just want a small size, it is still the way to go. If you have to buy batteries, either buy in bulk or buy a rechargable light.

Now about the Streamlight Scorpion. I it a good light, #2, just behind Surefire for small non-rechargable lights.

I have put a 2.5mm white LED in mine and it worked fine, but only lasted about 6 hours before it fried the LED. It was an old LED and was rated for less voltage then the newer Nichia whites. I have put a Nichia white in there, but again you can't get the reflector back on then.

Brock
 
If you are talking about the price of lithiums you have to include lights other than Surefires. The Streamlight Scorpion, HK's UTL2, the TAC3M, the tactical lights by Insights for Glocks, the 2L (forgot who makes it) and a couple others.
Most flashlights aren't waterproof. The new line from Surefire, and all the Pelican lights are, but the Streamlight Stinger, and Scorpion aren't.
The biggest disadvantages to Surefires are that the lamp assembly/bulbs are expensive, they may be too sensitive to shock (a 9N lamp is more sensitive to dropping than a Stinger bulb), of course a 12guage will probably kill any light mounted to it after a few rounds, the lights are expensive, and the beam (for me) widens out too soon, I prefer a tighter focus.
I never understood the reason for the 6R. It wasn't very bright, and cost too much. An 8X was just a little more. I think it's been dropped. The 9N isn't bad (a little too widely focused), and the new M10 should be pretty good, both recharcheable.
 
Alex GT
Instead of ruining your thread further; If anyone can be bothered, you can email me or PM me for my reply to NiMH's last post.

So now, I'm interested in what can be done to modify the Scorpion to take LEDs.

Do you intend to fit serval LEDs and some sort of control electronics in the Scorpion Bezel? Will you use as much as possible of the exsisting reflector to focus the LEDs?
What will happen about the Scorpion's Focusing ability? Is there some way of either using it?

Are you thinking of mounting the LED(s) in the reflector around the outside of the Lamp? And making the lamp focusable and the LEDs not?

How will you switch between the two, if at all?

Thanks for any information and ideas!

Alastair
grin.gif
 
What I intend to do is put from 1 to 4 leds at 0, 90, 180 and 270°, that´s why I need to open the lamp up to measure the space that I could use to decide how many leds to put.

For the electronic parts, I was going to keep it simple just resistored down to about 50 or 60 ma I don´t know it they would take the whole 6V or not, will find out, the intention is to keep the light focusable, obiously the led´s won´t be, but I could make an lens to be focused at the leds and no focus in the center for not to interfere with the light.

I have made some drawings but need to open the light up to take further measurements on where to cut and how, One thing I like about the scorpion is that it has to much material at the bezel that can be cut to some shape capable of holding the leds, regarding the switch, maybe a pushbutton type at the bezel, flush mount to not activate while in transport, the one on the rayovac workhorse 2AA looks good for that.

When I open the lamp and make further measurements will post some design ideas for you all.

Thanks for the replies and didn´t want to start any conflicts about SF vs. Scorpion Vs. economy vs. etc., This is just a fun project for me.

Thanks

AlexGT
 
Wow! Four...Good Luck!
And a switch!

If you pull this off, I'd be very interested in how it compares to other LED-lights. Will you be able to post some photos eventually?

I hope your ideas work out!

Al
 
correct me if I am mistaken but didn't Brock(*****) indicate the Surefire leaked after prolonged submersion??
I think the Millenium line of Surefire is supposed to be watertight...right?
 
sorry, but I was just replying to nimh's rather vehement statement in this string (on the previous page) about the Surefires being "waterproof"...
 
Just to clarify - surefire rates some models (M2?) as waterproof, and will warantee replace it if water leaks in - others are water resistant - big difference being the double o-ring on the "waterproof" models - designed to seal tighter.

None of these are meant to be deep water dive lights -that's a special breed of its own. I don't read the surefire catalog as catering to the dive crowd. At the same time, if my light gets dirty or I drop it in the mud, I take it to the kitchen sink, disassemble the pieces, wash them, lube them, and reassemble - My M2 has taken several torture tests this way and always come out fine.
 
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