Sold/Expired Open! MT-G2 Regulated 2x18350 Lights! (Preorder)

darkknightlight

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Edit: just heard back from Hank at intl outdoor, the driver Texas cop mentioned does not output a high enough voltage for the mtg2. Its a shame, cause i would love to have the option of a single mode high for work!

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ledmitter_nli

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I just appreciate clean soldering and build work because if I change my mind about the device (or if I just want to rave about it) I can sell it later with confidence, detailed pics and all. This separates your work from the amateurs.

Example of amateur work:

5y6ydl.jpg


in6a2c.jpg


v74e39.jpg


^^ Unless it was dirt cheap :D but seriously, what the hell ???

Zach is the forward clicky easy to install? Forget about the clip. Lanyard is fine.

I also stand by my word :D We'll need your paypal address.

Edit: or you can PM it. That's fine.
 
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darkknightlight

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@ledmitter: I'd prefer to keep this thread free of bashing anyone else's work; EDITED. The forward switch is nearly a drop in mod - the contact board for the switch gets filed down a bit and the nub inside the switchboot gets removed. Also, you had asked about black switch boots, correct? It looks like the new solarforce switchboot is the correct size; if you don't mind that it says "solarforce" across the back I will install it.

I'll post my paypal address in a couple days; I'd prefer not to sit on anyone's money for a week before placing the orders for the parts.

Edit: I realized that no matter how positive I tried to be about my work in comparison to the photos, it could be interpreted as bashing. Please be confident that I will not sell something I do not take pride in.
 
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ledmitter_nli

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I read ya. (in fact the pics are from 'another' forum :D).

I hate reverse clickys so the switch mod and the black boot is a definite yes. Maybe the McClicky kit works and installs easier? Either way just be sure you factor that additional mod work into the final product cost as well. Update that cost on your 1st post.

Whenever you're ready for PayPal....:thumbsup:

Edit: For instance, Overready has a McClicky kit and is compatible with SureFire Z41 type tailcaps. It comes with a custom retainer ring.
http://www.oveready.com/a-upgrades/...tion-clicky-kit-for-z41-p/c/z/g-/prod_23.html
http://www.oveready.com/images/uploads/mcclicky.html
 
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darkknightlight

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I read ya. (in fact the pics are from 'another' forum :D).

I hate reverse clickys so the switch mod and the black boot is a definite yes. Maybe the McClicky kit works and installs easier? Either way just be sure you factor that additional mod work into the final product cost as well. Update that cost on your 1st post.

Whenever you're ready for PayPal....:thumbsup:

Edit: For instance, Overready has a McClicky kit and is compatible with SureFire Z41 type tailcaps. It comes with a custom retainer ring.
http://www.oveready.com/a-upgrades/...tion-clicky-kit-for-z41-p/c/z/g-/prod_23.html
http://www.oveready.com/images/uploads/mcclicky.html

I appreciate your understanding :)

The McClicky was the first switch I tried to fit in there, but it just doesn't fit properly. The brass ring in the McClicky kit is too small, and the contact board for the bare switch is too small for the M2 retaining ring. I did have a couple extra Fenix forward click switches laying around as well as the Solarforce ones; both switches function perfectly. I'll try the black switch boot tomorrow morning before I head to work.
 

ledmitter_nli

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I appreciate your understanding :)

The McClicky was the first switch I tried to fit in there, but it just doesn't fit properly. The brass ring in the McClicky kit is too small, and the contact board for the bare switch is too small for the M2 retaining ring. I did have a couple extra Fenix forward click switches laying around as well as the Solarforce ones; both switches function perfectly. I'll try the black switch boot tomorrow morning before I head to work.

Whatever works best. :thumbsup:
 

darkknightlight

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I just tried the black solarforce switchboot; it didn't work real well. The retaining lip on the boot is about 1.5mm smaller than the stock boot. I don't know if it's because of the tiny size difference or if the rubber is softer, but I tried installing two black boots and both tore apart when the switch retaining ring was screwed in. Looks like the search is still on for 22mm black switch boots.
 

ledmitter_nli

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I just tried the black solarforce switchboot; it didn't work real well. The retaining lip on the boot is about 1.5mm smaller than the stock boot. I don't know if it's because of the tiny size difference or if the rubber is softer, but I tried installing two black boots and both tore apart when the switch retaining ring was screwed in. Looks like the search is still on for 22mm black switch boots.

The default green is fine then. Don't want you destroying or damaging components unnecessarily.
 

darkknightlight

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@ledmitter, green switchboot it is :) I found out tonight that the boot is actually glow in the dark; my m2 spends the majority of its time in my pocket, so I never knew. And don't worry, I don't mind destroying a part here and there if it helps me find something that works!

@Ohaya, what driver do you want in your T10? Forward switch?

@texas cop, do you want a forward switch installed in your T10?

EDIT: OP updated with paypal info: turboz813 (at) msn (dot) com
If it's just the three of you by next Tuesday, I'll just place the order for parts for your three lights.

7 Spots left!
 
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ledmitter_nli

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I don't really have time to itemize everything so to just make things easier I've put $170 in the bucket. As goodwill and thanks for all of your efforts.

I'm paying for:
M2 5000K copper mounted, thermal adhesive, H-M-L 3.0 amps, forward clicky, smooth bezel, lanyard.
3-day priority with tracking (private shipping info should be in the PayPal receipt)
Send me your model with the best anodizing and workmanship (in case I decide to sell it or make it a shelf queen :D)

Keep us updated.

Cheers!
 
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ledmitter_nli

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Understood. Refund accepted. Just wanted to show my enthusiastic support. :D So we'll do this according to the pricing schedule you've outlined instead.

Cheers.
 

ohaya

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@ledmitter, green switchboot it is :) I found out tonight that the boot is actually glow in the dark; my m2 spends the majority of its time in my pocket, so I never knew. And don't worry, I don't mind destroying a part here and there if it helps me find something that works!

@Ohaya, what driver do you want in your T10? Forward switch?

@texas cop, do you want a forward switch installed in your T10?

EDIT: OP updated with paypal info: turboz813 (at) msn (dot) com
If it's just the three of you by next Tuesday, I'll just place the order for parts for your three lights.

7 Spots left!


Hi,

For me, it's betwen the 3 amp driver and the 3.5 amp driver :)...

For the T10 host, without me going back through the whole thread again, how much have you worked with the 3.5 amp driver? If I'm reading the MT-G2 datasheet correctly, that's over-driving the emitter just a bit (by 0.5 amps). Is that correct?

Also, re. switch, the reverse clicky is fine.

Also, include copper for the PCB, please, and, will it be ok not to use adhesive for the PCB to pill?

Pls advise re. the driver info etc. and I'll let you know?

Thanks,
Jim
 
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darkknightlight

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Understood. Refund accepted. Just wanted to show my enthusiastic support. :D So we'll do this according to the pricing schedule you've outlined instead.

Cheers.

And i definitely appreciate your enthusiastic support :)

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
 

darkknightlight

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Hi,

For me, it's betwen the 3 amp driver and the 3.5 amp driver :)...

For the T10 host, without me going back through the whole thread again, how much have you worked with the 3.5 amp driver? If I'm reading the MT-G2 datasheet correctly, that's over-driving the emitter just a bit (by 0.5 amps). Is that correct?

Also, re. switch, the reverse clicky is fine.

Also, include copper for the PCB, please, and, will it be ok not to use adhesive for the PCB to pill?

Pls advise re. the driver info etc. and I'll let you know?

Thanks,
Jim

I've worked with the 3.5 amp driver enough to know it fits the t10. Not much beyond that; enough to know it works with the mtg2. I wasn't comfortable over driving the emitter to run it much. I think the copper pcb will make a huge difference. I'll try the Arctic silver, but there is a chance not having the pcb secure with adhesive will be a problem. Either way, I'll definitely test it and let you know how I'd functioning as i build it.

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ohaya

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I've worked with the 3.5 amp driver enough to know it fits the t10. Not much beyond that; enough to know it works with the mtg2. I wasn't comfortable over driving the emitter to run it much. I think the copper pcb will make a huge difference. I'll try the Arctic silver, but there is a chance not having the pcb secure with adhesive will be a problem. Either way, I'll definitely test it and let you know how I'd functioning as i build it.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


Ok, definitely copper PCB, but can you provide a link to both the specific 3 amp and 3.5 amp drivers, and I'll check them out and let you know after that. Re. the arctic silver vs. adhesive:

Are you concerned about keeping the emitter centered? Or something else?

Also re. adhesive, are you thinking something like arctic alumina (epoxy), or Fujik?

Thanks!

Jim
 

ledmitter_nli

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BTW, would the driver electronics need to entail any heat sink bonding itself? I'm unsure but wondering if the driver contributes anything significant.
 

ohaya

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BTW, would the driver electronics need to entail any heat sink bonding itself? I'm unsure but wondering if the driver contributes anything significant.


I think that some of the drivers "come with" thermal tape, e.g., this is a 3 amp and 3.5 amp one, respectively:

http://intl-outdoor.com/xml-multicell-circuit-board-3a-55126v-p-361.html

http://intl-outdoor.com/xml-multicell-circuit-board-35a-ouput-55126v-p-543.html

I'm not sure if those are the ones that Zach is planning to use, but they say "Thermal pad included (5mm thick)".

Jim
 

texas cop

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I'm gone a couple of days and the thread lunges forward. The standard T10 as is looks perfect. I prefer reverse clicky on multi-mode lights. I do want an extension tube for a pair of 18500's. After I get the light I'll check my box of parts for a possible match, I've got 4 different extension.
 

darkknightlight

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I think that some of the drivers "come with" thermal tape, e.g., this is a 3 amp and 3.5 amp one, respectively:

http://intl-outdoor.com/xml-multicell-circuit-board-3a-55126v-p-361.html

http://intl-outdoor.com/xml-multicell-circuit-board-35a-ouput-55126v-p-543.html

I'm not sure if those are the ones that Zach is planning to use, but they say "Thermal pad included (5mm thick)".

Jim

Those are the ones! Sorry, I misread your question earlier. After looking again at the pcb and pill for the T10, I realize that thermal adhesive must be used to secure and center the pcb. Regarding heat production and potting of the drivers, that takes a longer answer. In reality, the driver does not contribute much heat to the overall setup because there is not much voltage that has to be "burned off." I am more interested in potting electronics for protection from physical shock; for example if the light gets dropped. In the past I have used both thermal adhesive and a compound very similar to fujik. I have not tried the "thermal pads" included with the lights because they don't contact the components enough to protect them from shock. Since these drivers were originally intended to drive an xml, they would be producing much more heat from bucking the voltage down; hence the thermal pad. For potting in these lights, I will use whichever compound you request. I personally prefer the ceramique (fujik) compound because it is easier for me to get into small spaces between components. However, if you would like me to pot the electronics using the thermal adhesive I will do that instead. The difference between the two is that the adhesive hardens, while the ceramique does not. The ceramique is designed not to migrate at all even with heat.
 
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