P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3)
- Thread starter Fizz753
- Start date
Ya that's some bad info they are giving. I was basing my advice on their website info
Just received an answer that it’s not designed for Surefire. I will measure and see if it’s possible to modify.
Schokokeks
Enlightened
So, I bought some Testor's model paint. I have white and red. ONE CELL ONLY lights get marked with RED on the backside, and two cells get marked with white. For my Malkoffs, I actually use a fine brush and paint the module ID (e.g. M31L, M61NLL).
I didn't even realize they did this with their voltage ranges until I got a few modules. It feels like it's essentially random.
2.7-4.2V:
XHP50.3 (Labeled as a "3V")
SFT-25R
3xXP-E2 Amber
2.7-6V:
3xCSLNM1
2.7-9V:
3xSST-20
I have a SFT-40 coming in the mail, and I'm going to GUESS it's the 2.7-4.2V, but I honestly have no idea until they arrive.
Luckily, I don't own any Surefire branded hosts, but I have an MHVAST and LF host I tend to rotate these in, which are both single, small cells. Otherwise, I think I would have accidentally blown one or two of these, haha.
I think the worst part is the voltages are really built around CR123A cells...and it's 2025, so I'm going to assume most everyone is using rechargeable cells, and a LOT of these cannot use EITHER two CR123A cells NOR two Li-ion cells. Even worse, 2.7V is JUST out of the range of two Eneloops, so you can't even do 2xAA shenanigans with these :/
Meanwhile, my M61N drop-ins from Malkoff are 3.4-9V, so I can do 1-3x CR123A, and 1-2 Li-ion cells. You can run an M61NLL in a MD4 with two 18650s if you wanted...or needed a day and a half worth of light, haha.
I find the Kaidomain ones tend to mostly only work with their mostly proprietary host. You can grab one for like $6 when you buy a drop-in, and it's a great value for $6, but it's also not a super great host. It has sharp edges and just doesn't feel good in the hand.
I mostly buy Kaidomain emitters to try out in the single KD host I have, to see if I like a particular emitter.
The SINGLE emitters MOSTLY fit in other things, but I never went for their 3x or 4x, cause the bodies did look too big. Sportac has a Surefire one with a taper for the 16mm battery tube, and then a 18mm straight walled drop-in, so I had learned to be careful with that..
Remove the spring?
Hi @DE73
I use 2 of the Sportac modules, one in each of my current 2 most-grabbed lights when heading out the door at night. They are essentially the same product 'model' module, and ordered as such, except with 2 different LEDs. They both have the same design features (apparently internal and external), configurable 1 or 2 output levels etc., and are otherwise ostensibly the same model product; however they DO have different specified input voltage range, as indicated on the the detailed, product-specific packaging label applied to the cannister they're shipped in. The difference is keyed to the emitter they're built / shipped with.
For this reason, I suggest that the most accurate / reliable information source for input voltage range, etc. is from the source closest to the source of the product; that being the product-specific official manufacturer product label applied to the cannister the product was originally packaged in. Any information source downstream of that is, by definition possibly less reliable / accurate.
The SST20 4000K version label specs are 780L output, input voltage range 2.7V-9V, and specified power supply options are 1x18650, or 2xCR123A.
The 519A 4500K version label specs are 814L output, input voltage range 2.7V-4.2V, and specified power supply is 1x18650. No, this one could not be used with 2xCR123A.
I'm using 1x16650 in both of those lights.
They both also have a configurable 1 or 2 output level mode, and "turbo mode" which scales up the output level(s), (if configured for that), with higher supply current requirement of course, however I've not tried that.
Mine are both installed in Elzetta Bravo bodies w/older type ZFL heads. Assembled, there is what I would call a 'small gap', between the head and body shoulder. This is a documented fact with certain applications, one specific notation being:
"Insert drop-in to your SF host, or install it with spacer when installing to a 18650 body host. It's normal to leave a small gap between the head and body as the drop-in is heatsink directly with the body."
That's a copy/paste from this page, just for reference, from a now-outdated web page/site:
Both state compatibility w/ 6P on the label.
On my lights, that 'gap' is ~0.10 in. It is a non-issue for me.
BTW, I definitely like these modules so far, and would 'buy them again tomorrow';-)
If I may ask, who are you getting your info on these from - not the individual, but at what point are they working in the Sportac manufacturer / distribution chain? Just curious, as information can be a bit 'iffy' with some products / manufacturers.
Thanks, and cheers from the desert!
I use 2 of the Sportac modules, one in each of my current 2 most-grabbed lights when heading out the door at night. They are essentially the same product 'model' module, and ordered as such, except with 2 different LEDs. They both have the same design features (apparently internal and external), configurable 1 or 2 output levels etc., and are otherwise ostensibly the same model product; however they DO have different specified input voltage range, as indicated on the the detailed, product-specific packaging label applied to the cannister they're shipped in. The difference is keyed to the emitter they're built / shipped with.
For this reason, I suggest that the most accurate / reliable information source for input voltage range, etc. is from the source closest to the source of the product; that being the product-specific official manufacturer product label applied to the cannister the product was originally packaged in. Any information source downstream of that is, by definition possibly less reliable / accurate.
The SST20 4000K version label specs are 780L output, input voltage range 2.7V-9V, and specified power supply options are 1x18650, or 2xCR123A.
The 519A 4500K version label specs are 814L output, input voltage range 2.7V-4.2V, and specified power supply is 1x18650. No, this one could not be used with 2xCR123A.
I'm using 1x16650 in both of those lights.
They both also have a configurable 1 or 2 output level mode, and "turbo mode" which scales up the output level(s), (if configured for that), with higher supply current requirement of course, however I've not tried that.
Mine are both installed in Elzetta Bravo bodies w/older type ZFL heads. Assembled, there is what I would call a 'small gap', between the head and body shoulder. This is a documented fact with certain applications, one specific notation being:
"Insert drop-in to your SF host, or install it with spacer when installing to a 18650 body host. It's normal to leave a small gap between the head and body as the drop-in is heatsink directly with the body."
That's a copy/paste from this page, just for reference, from a now-outdated web page/site:
Both state compatibility w/ 6P on the label.
On my lights, that 'gap' is ~0.10 in. It is a non-issue for me.
BTW, I definitely like these modules so far, and would 'buy them again tomorrow';-)
If I may ask, who are you getting your info on these from - not the individual, but at what point are they working in the Sportac manufacturer / distribution chain? Just curious, as information can be a bit 'iffy' with some products / manufacturers.
Thanks, and cheers from the desert!
Schokokeks
Enlightened
You got me to buy a ZFL head to run these drop-ins
For the life of me, I cannot remember where I heard it, but are you also the person who mentioned you can clip off the little plastic ring, so these work with unprotected cells?
Also, I've always been a bit confused by the spacer ring. Is that for 18mm tubes, or 16mm ones? The hosts I have are generally 18mm, and I can't seem to tell if the spacer is necessary, or how exactly it functions.
I removed the springs before I tried.
At a precursory glance, it looks like the "rim" or "platform" at the contact side of the drop in sits taller on the quad than with the reflector. Might have to remove some of the OD on the driver side of the drop in, but not sure if it will maintain its integrity..
The other option is to bore out the body a little bit,to accomodate the extra length of the drop in OD.
A rough estimate is that the length from the OD rim to the OD bezel is ~3mm longer on the quad.
Quad:
--_---__---__
___|_______|_
_|___________|
_|___________|
_|___________|
/____________\
As opposed to
Reflector:
--_---__---__
___|_______|
___|_______|_
_|___________|
_|___________|
/____________\
Another analogy would be a standard 9mm vs a 9mm luger. The luger has that nice taper to feed better, the 9mm standard does not. Same length, same form factor, but different casing.
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Thank you very much for the help. I took the easy way and upgraded my fathers clone instead of measure and machine to fit Surefire.
Attachments
Glad it worked out!
Chat with Eagtac AliExpress store. I guess it’s a Chinese guy close to production.
Schokokeks
Enlightened
My Sportac SFT-40 3000K 2-mode came in today.
2.7-4.2V, so no dual cell configurations.
That being said, the tint on this is incredible. I really like the SFT-40, as it's kind of the only real high CRI thrower. Compared to my Convoy T6 with the SFT-40 3000K, this one is a touch green (and the convoy a touch rosey), but I prefer a slight green tint, as that makes things (especially outdoors) look great.
2.7-4.2V, so no dual cell configurations.
That being said, the tint on this is incredible. I really like the SFT-40, as it's kind of the only real high CRI thrower. Compared to my Convoy T6 with the SFT-40 3000K, this one is a touch green (and the convoy a touch rosey), but I prefer a slight green tint, as that makes things (especially outdoors) look great.
Interesting how all our tastes differ. The 3000k is just too warm for me. Glad you like it though
Me too, but absolutely to each their own. To me that would be almost like striking a book of matches, all at once (don't tell me you've never done it). i don't do that warm today, but when you do, it's got a heated wire in it I bet;-)
Al Sportac I can find online says 2.7V - 6V but they seem to deliver 2.7V - 4.2V. Little bit strange. Sad you didn’t like the tint.
Hey, it's kinda warm 'n cozy like a fireplace on a stick;-) Nothing wrong with that, and I'm sure it has its place in the stable! A flashlight for all seasons / reasons / moods / uses ...
Indoors 3000K is perfect.
Such discrepancies have been duely noted in this thread, and it's definitely an issue that should be corrected. I was a bit confused myself. I'll mention it to my distributor and perhaps he'll pass it back up the food chain.
This is where I was one going (one of the reasons) when I asked regarding your information source. At this point I'm adhering to the spec on the label because it looks professionally done, is properly affixed to the can it was shipped in, has what appears to be all the other correct info for the specific emitter packed / shipped, and this all presumably comes from the point of origin and the module / packaging come from the same person / machine. I go with the source farthest upstream. Likely far more reliable than any web site;-)
Schokokeks
Enlightened
Some of the brighter emitters in 3000K aren't as warm as you might expect. The 1800K FFL MDC AA I have is so warm, it takes a moment for my eyes to adjust before I can tell it's not amber (it's a neat experience, because with amber, the colors are always washed out, but with the 1800K, you eventually start to see them more normally).
You've got that backwards - I LOVE the tint. It looks great. The SFT-40 in 3000K is maybe my favorite throwy emitter, because it's till high CRI. It's super interesting to use outside.
Absolutely. I do 4000-5000K in summer, then 3000-4000K in winter. Inside, I really like under 3000K at night in winter. To be fair, I did grow up with 2700K incandescent lights, and back in those days, you tended to minimize the amount of lights on in summer because incandescents are 50% space heaters, haha. So, for me, winter time is when you'd have early sunsets, and a couple of lights going in the house.
For nostalgia, I do enjoy my Convoy T3 with the 219F 1800K that mimics the sodium lights of my childhood, haha.
I find all the really, really warm stuff easy on the eyes.
If you get outside in the snow, I think anything above maybe 4500K is just unbearable.
