p60 sized led drop-in's

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kavvika

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I gave in and purchased a #6090, mostly for the "Kennan" driver. Tint is pretty white, construction is good, and it *seems* to reach full brightness with one 3.7v Li-Ion cell. Beam quality is a little lacking, though. The tight hotspot is very bright, followed by a large dark ring with the rest of the beam being spill. I'd say lumen output is comparable to the once-popular DX #1447 module, just around (over?) 100, and brighter than the 80-lumen #1343. It fits in a 6P and 9P with the spring removed and pill unscrewed about a 1/6 turn from fully tight. The only problem is I'll have to unscrew it more than I'd like to in order to get contact with my $14 eBay Solarforce strike bezel. Maybe a coil cut from the spring will solve this. The driver will be replaced with the 3-mode 1050mAh AMC7135 driver from KD. For only $10.14, you can't go wrong if you're looking for a Surefire classic style compatible drop-in, but #1343 will always be my favorite.
 

Yapo

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I just ordered a dereelight 3SD w/ both OP/SMO and also a solarforce L2 off ebay to use it with...hopefully it wont be too hard to sand/file down the body of it to fit in a 18650 or else i'll have to spend more money on 17670 batteries...untill i can fit the batteries in that i'll be using it in my ultrafire 502B...and hopefully the spring on the droppin will be more gentle on my 18650 batteries because the springs from my other droppins as well as the tailcap spring has been slowly drilling through my batteries:ohgeez:
 

IcantC

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I think I'll go with the Dereelight 1S(1-stage) cree XR-E Q5 module. I still don't know what to choose: op or smo.


Get both. I have same setup and usually use SMO and just swapped to OP. OP visually ALMOST has same throw, no rings in beam(not that I care, but some here do). It give the light a bigger spot and better spill.
 

roymail

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kavvika, can you say how your #1343 compares to the #6090? I use the #6090 with 2 x 123's and find it to be very nice at about 80-100 lumens.

I wonder how either of these would do on 2 x 17500's?

Thanks!
 

ginaz

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just got a cabela's xpg thanks to that great deal and now i'm looking for a drop-in. does this one exist?:

volt range: 3-9v
two(or more) mode with low low
high drive current @1000ma+
Q5 cree
tight throw beam.
 

kavvika

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Sure thing, Roy! The DX #1343 example I'm using is my prized Cree P60 module because of its perfect tint, beam quality, and construction. It was purchased used from Netkidz about a year ago when they had only been out for a month. My other "DX #1343" is actually from KD, and the construction is not as good and tint is slightly blue-er. But I'm guessing that's mostly because of the "lottery". The first pictures shows the two modules side by side, with #1343 on the left and #6090 on the right. In the photo, they do look pretty beat-up, but they don't look even close to that in person. The photos do make the soldering look pretty messy, but #1343 is actually quite good in person, while the job on #6090 leaves some to be desired. Because of the shape of the modules, DX #1343 fits perfectly into a Maxfire LX with not gap, but does not fit in the 6P without a ~1.5mm gap. #6090 does not allow the head to be threaded on in the Maxfire LX, but using the 6P, it fits perfectly. Note that the outer springs must be removed in both cases. With the $14 eBay Solarforce strike bezel, the gap using #1343 shrinks to less than 1mm, which I fine more acceptable. I don't have a G2 so I can't test the fit in that light. The positive spring in #1343 *exudes* quality, while the spring on #6090 feels flimsy and cheap. YMMV, though.
img3144elk2.jpg


The next photo shows the pills removed from the reflector. #6090 uses a Dereelight-like pill design, and the 14mm round base Cree could most likely be replaced and upgraded easily. Even if I were not satisfied with the emitter on #1343, I would most likely leave it be since I don't want to deal with trimming stars.
img3147ewh9.jpg


Hopefully this "spillshot" will suffice since I don't have a tripod nor a white wall to take proper beamshots. Both lights are running a fully charged AW 17670 cell. #6090 is on top in the 6P while #1343 is on bottom in the Maxfire. From this photo alone, #1343 seems to have much more spill, but that could be because #6090 is not running in regulation at 3.7v. Regardless, the hotspot is definitely brighter, and would be brighter still at 6v. Adobe apparently changed the white balance, but I can assure you #1343 is far warmer than my #6090. When white wall hunting, like stated earlier, I find the beam my #6090 to be pretty poor (maybe I'm being a little harsh...). I challenge any discerning flashaholic to a double-blind test with my #1343 and a SF P60L. It's just that good!
img3155eer1.jpg


#6090 runs surprisingly bright with only 1 Li-Ion cell, given that it apparently has the Kennan board with requires a vF of 2v higher than the LED vF. Although, I want to know what board the #1343 uses since the regulation is ruler-flat even on on 3.7v, which I am a total sucker for.

Now, comparing the #6090 to the Surefire P60L, it's a no-brainer. Without a doubt, I'd recommend #6090. On one Li-Ion cell, the SF P60L lights up in moon mode at about half brightness, which I find unusable. #6090 blows it away, and has a far better tint on average, to boot. #6090 is far more versatile, has better heatsinking (although the SF P60L has a thermal sensor) and can be disassembled to be upgraded with a different board or emitter. The SF P60L is simply overpriced (IMO) for what it offers. Now, the to-be-released P61L, on the other hand....

Why would you want to choose #1343? I find 80 lumens plenty for any purpose, and runtime and regulation are spectacular. Plus, you can use any combination of 1x Li-Ion, 2x CR123A or 2x Li-Ion in a 6P or 9P at full brightness. I don't like the gap it leaves in a 6P with the stock bezel, but with the Solarforce bezel, the gap nearly vanishes.

Why would you want to choose #6090? Easy upgradeability, arguably the best buck converter on the market, and more lumens! Fits in a 6P after a little fiddling with the pill. I cannot vouch for runtime or regulation, though.

Now regarding you question about running them both on 2x 17500's. I don't believe you'll notice any difference vs 2x CR123A's. Both modules should be running at full brightness already at 6v. Runtime would be increased dramatically, though, and I find the form factor of a 9P to be very appealing. I will be placing an order for 2x Ultrafire 17500's at DX later this week, and will report back with my findings.

But seriously, for ~$10 each, buy both. Better yet, multiples of each if you can afford it. These two modules, I believe, are the best of the cheap P60 modules. I'm sure you'll find plenty of applications for each.
 
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starburst

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I have a WE Q5 SF dropin for my 6P. HO 3.7v-6.0v what I'm needing to know will 2 RCR123 3.6v batteries be to hot for it? If it's to hot it's to hot just wondering Has anyone else tried overdriving this one? Don't want er to go :poof:
 

Fizz753

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kavvika

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Nice find, wolf! I hope they're using WG tint Q5's *crosses fingers*.

I wonder what previous module those two are based on? The 3-18v one just might be using the KD Kennan driver, as it's the only one I know of capable of those voltages. And I wonder if the other is fully regulated on a 3.7v Li-Ion? It's almost cheaper to buy new now instead of upgrading the emitter...
 

roymail

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kavvika, thanks for the very nice report on the #1343 and #6090. Great job, good pictures and information. You said...

"Now regarding you question about running them both on 2x 17500's. I don't believe you'll notice any difference vs 2x CR123A's. Both modules should be running at full brightness already at 6v. Runtime would be increased dramatically, though, and I find the form factor of a 9P to be very appealing."

Yes, the 9P and G3 running on 2 x 17500's would not be any brighter but would definitely give better runtime. I'll be going in that direction soon.

I'm looking forward to hearing more about the new DX Q5 drop-ins. :huh:
 

Yapo

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Hey are there any other p60 droppins besides malkoff's that use optic lenses instead of reflectors? just been wondering...since ive seen alota cree lenses available at a variety of beam angles and they also seem to have a smaller diameter than the p60 reflectors as well...although reflectors generally give brighter and wider spill than optics, the the spill suddenly cuts off in a circle whereas all the beamshots ive seen from optics from malkoffs and the new surefires lights, the spill gradually fades which seems easier on the eyes...
 

Spypro

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Anybody tried the DX sku.6090 in a G2 (incan. not G2L) ?
Is there a gap between the bezel and the body ?

and

What would be your choice between the DX 6090 , DX 1343 and DX 1447 ?

Thanks !
 

orbital

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+

Received the G&P Q5 'Long Focus' drop-in today.

Initially two things stand out, it's springless, so you need cells with + button sticking out to get contact.

Secondly and most important, the reflector is MUCH deeper than a standard drop-in,
the hotspot is intense with essentially no CREE ring.
I'll get back on tint, but it should throw great for a drop-in...:eek:

Running 8.4V w/ (2) 17500s


gp751l.jpg
 
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katsyonak

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Anybody tried the DX sku.6090 in a G2 (incan. not G2L) ?
Is there a gap between the bezel and the body ?
I have the DX sku 6090 installed (without the outer spring) in my G2 Realtree Hardwoods (which I assume is the same). As you can see in the pictures, there is no gap at all:

0603081508ok7.jpg


dscn3385lt9.jpg


dscn3391ni7.jpg


dscn3392eu7.jpg


dscn3395qp6.jpg


dscn3397pz2.jpg
 

Yapo

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my dereelight 3SD droppin arrived today! i'm suprised it only took 1 week to get to me...thats the fastest delivery from HK ive ever gotten...i wonder why it cant always be this fast. With the SMO reflector the hotspot doesnt seem very round but with the OP reflector it smooths out alot, but on the medium and low mode it buzzes fairly loudly...you can hear it fairly clearly from a foot away from your ear and it flickers like other PWMs would. other then that its nice n bright!

...i managed to screw the reflector down further which made the hotspot a little rounder but the cree is centered but its slightly slanted so the hotspot a little off to one side but not noticeable a few meteres away
...after ive been playing around with it for the whole day my P1D CE which i thought was nice and white and maybe even on the warm side looks a little blue and i was suprised to find my L0D RB80 which was a slightly warm now looks completely yellow.
i guess looking at the intense bright focused WC white light has ruined my eyes...or maybe fixed them:thinking:
 
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roymail

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katsyonak, man those are some beautiful pics of your SF camo'ed G2. I've never seen one those... very cool. And, using a #6090 is ideal for the Nitrolon G2. Great job! :huh:
 

Spypro

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katsyonak
Thanks for the answer ! That are pretty cool pic !

Is there any runtime test done with the 6090 drop-in ?
What about the regulation with 2 x RCR123 ?

Thanks !
 
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