I have had a FM Cooly host for a while now, and one of these days I will build a really high power LED pill for it, but for now, I wanted to get play with making my own P60-style LED drop in from scratch. Call it a learning project 🙂
For this project I am using a new XML-2 in Direct Drive with one of my own Tiny-85 controller boards and MOSFET boards. The controller monitors batter voltage, temperature, and senses the switch button presses (On/Off cycles) to alternate between Low, Med, and High, and then it sends a PWM signal to the MOSFET which is tied to the NEG side of the LED.
I wanted the fit of this new pill to be closer than a generic pill so I measured the OD of a couple of them, as well as the ID of the Cooly:
I started making the pill. I did not have the right OD Al bar, so I was taking deep cuts of 0.150" (.3" diameter reduction) to get there quick, so I was using lots of lubricant:
Then work on the ID on one side:
Fairly close to my "drawing":
Great fit on the lens side:
I should have started on the other end, but I don't always think through "all" of the steps in my head before starting, but I went ahead and keep going. This meant I had to work on a way to hold the larger diameter lip, so I made a delrin sleeve and used the step inside the chuck's jaws to my advantage:
Got the other side done. That lip is for the PWB controller board:
Slide fit (next time I will try for a tighter fit):
Epoxy LED to pill - use lens to center:
Drill holes for wires:
Solder spring on positive contact:
Ready for wiring/assembly:
Test before epoxying things in place:
All done. The negative contact was not very "elegant", but it works 🙂
Thermal paste between pill and Cooly:
All assembled. The FM cooly is a great host - well though out!
Will
For this project I am using a new XML-2 in Direct Drive with one of my own Tiny-85 controller boards and MOSFET boards. The controller monitors batter voltage, temperature, and senses the switch button presses (On/Off cycles) to alternate between Low, Med, and High, and then it sends a PWM signal to the MOSFET which is tied to the NEG side of the LED.
I wanted the fit of this new pill to be closer than a generic pill so I measured the OD of a couple of them, as well as the ID of the Cooly:
I started making the pill. I did not have the right OD Al bar, so I was taking deep cuts of 0.150" (.3" diameter reduction) to get there quick, so I was using lots of lubricant:
Then work on the ID on one side:
Fairly close to my "drawing":
Great fit on the lens side:
I should have started on the other end, but I don't always think through "all" of the steps in my head before starting, but I went ahead and keep going. This meant I had to work on a way to hold the larger diameter lip, so I made a delrin sleeve and used the step inside the chuck's jaws to my advantage:
Got the other side done. That lip is for the PWB controller board:
Slide fit (next time I will try for a tighter fit):
Epoxy LED to pill - use lens to center:
Drill holes for wires:
Solder spring on positive contact:
Ready for wiring/assembly:
Test before epoxying things in place:
All done. The negative contact was not very "elegant", but it works 🙂
Thermal paste between pill and Cooly:
All assembled. The FM cooly is a great host - well though out!
Will