P7 Problems - Replacing Circuit Board

[PaulH]

I bought a P& flashlight from one of the usual internet stores. When I turned it on, the light went from high to low after about 10 seconds, which is apparently a built in safety thing when the LED gets too hot. I asked the webstore about this, and after a while, I was sent another circuit board to replace the apparently faulty one.

That wasn't the solution I was looking for (was expecting a replacement light - or at least complete module), but rather than wait another couple of months, I thought I would give it a try.

I've taken the light to pieces - to the stage below. I can't take any more pieces apart to get to the cutcuit - it appears to be glued in pretty well. Has anyone got any suggestions please? I don't have a heat gun!

Many thanks,

Paul H

 

[reza]

I have exactly the same problem. But I tried to ply the circuit board out and broke a couple things on it. Now i have a broken circuit board. Help!
Where can we get another circuit board?

 

[Monocrom]

Could you tell us which particular P7 light you bought?

 

[PaulH]

This is the P7 flashlight:

http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductID=4947

With nothing much to lose, I managed to prise the outer board off. Now I am left with the inner circuit board - which leaves me a similar problem of how to get it out! The brass/copper section does not seem to unscrew, and I can't prise them apart with pliers.

This is the replacement board that Kaidomain sent me - which is different to the original.

Cheers.

Paul

 

[Monocrom]

A No-Name, P7 light from KD..... Sorry to say, but it's not really surprising that the light failed. That particular body style is used on a variety of lights from China. (Including a Solarforce L600 that I own). Problem is, it was originally meant for use with inca bulbs. That body style doesn't have good heat-sinking. Not an issue for inca bulbs. (Heat doesn't bother them). But it's definitely an issue for LEDs. Especially new LED emitters such as the P7.

Poor heat-sink, plus an extremely bright LED emitter; just a bad combination.

 

[PaulH]

Actually, I got the link wrong. This is the correct one hopefully!

http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=1290

Although I suppose it is still a P7 from KD, it has the Ultrafire logo on the LED assembly.

It has three good reviews though, I guess I just got a duff one. Still trying to disassemble!

 

[LukeA]

You've only linked to the rather useless thumbnail versions of those images.

 

[lightmyway]

I have not worked on any of these. I would remove the led (unsolder) on many of these lights the led has merely heat paste under the led ,if it is epoxied on (good luck) you then may be able to drive the brass retainer out, it probably is a press fit.Hope this helps.

 

[Monocrom]

Actually, I got the link wrong. This is the correct one hopefully!

http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=1290

I can see how three good reviews on KD's site would influence you to buy that light..... But that body style was having heat issues with LED emitters before the P7 even came out. There was even a thread about it on CPF a few months back.

 

[PaulH]

I'm feeling like I am left with very little except bin fodder, and potentially some spare parts. I guess I am back at square one.

We are off out for New Years to a cottage in North Devon (UK!), basically in the middle of nowhere. I'm still looking for torch that will turn night into day... or at least be the brightest possible without spending a small fortune ($100 max). I'll have a check around CPF in case there is a thread somewhere, but any ideas would be great. I have a Dereelight DBS - which is great, and a couple of Q5/R2 Surefire and Surefire clones. Is there a reasonably priced P7/MC-E that will produce loads of light, will last for 1-2 hours (2 x 18650's) and won't go dim/overheat in 10 minutes of continuous use?

I guess you get what you pay for, but anything that will throw well, and make people think there is a police helicopter hovering around!

 

[marschw]

I'd desolder the wires at the LED, remove the MCPCB that it's resting on, and stick a pick or an awl or some such thing through the holes that the wires come through. That way, you could push it out from the back, rather than trying to pry it out from the front.

 

[TigerhawkT3]

I would badger KD for a full replacement light. If that doesn't work out, you might try making a P7 Mag, or getting someone to build one for you.