PDT tint comparisons and beamshots...

mmander

Newly Enlightened
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Dec 31, 2013
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The package of lights from Vinh arrived the other day and I have shot some preliminary indoor comparisons. I will be posting some (hopefully) better shots over the next few days. Sadly, the weather here is supposed to suck this long weekend, so outdoor beam-shots may have to wait another week. :sigh: Still crossing my fingers for decent weather either Saturday or Sunday night!

For now, I just photographed the beams against a somewhat blotchy painted white wall at work. Over the weekend I am planning on reshooting these against a matte white, 12 foot wide paper target which should help reduce the specular glare and allow me to capture the brightest part of the beams with better fidelity. The SR52vn lights were all on level 2. Explanation and comments below each photo...

SR52vn_PDT_tints.jpg



I did not have enough space on the wall to position these side by side, so they are arranged as you see. My own SR52vn PDTn is at the bottom. Dynamic range has been compressed in post to show the corona and spill tints, but the hotspots are throughly blown out here. When I redo the beam-shots against a matte surface, I will also have some darker exposures and should be able to capture the hotspot tint as well. White balance was set on the PDTn beam, just at the transition from corona to spill.

While the PDTw light is dead obvious, even to the naked eye, one thing I want to note is that initially I was convinced that either Vinh had sent me a PDTn instead of a PDTc by accident or I had received a PDTc by accident when I bought my SR52vn. Visually, I virtually am unable to tell the difference between the PDTn and the PDTc versions! Even on camera, the spill tint is essentially identical although the corona shows a slight greenish tint on the PDTc. I have spent a fair bit of time looking at these two visually, and I'll be damned if I can tell a difference! It is possible that the bright hotspot just overwhelms and prevents me from identifying the corona tint? On the other hand, the PDTw is visually more pronounced in its warmth relative to the other two, than it appears to be in the photo here. What I am unsure about still, is whether or not the coronal tint variation in the PDTn and PDTc versions might just be natural variation from LED to LED? Maybe they are indeed from the same colour temperature bin?

In any case, I can see why Vinh was having troubles portraying the tints accurately on camera since even with good equipment and good software, it is a challenge! Here is an animation of the three tints from different shots...

PDT_tint_animation.gif



Also, when compared to clean daylight [EDIT: compared photographically, not visually], all these lights are quite green, as are the majority of LED lights, even those with 5000K MT-G2 LEDs. De-doming does tend to shift the tint even further towards green it seems. The image that follows is the same one as the first one above, but with daylight white-balance set. You can see why the tint-snob in me dislikes de-doming :green:, although I certainly cannot argue with the tremendous increase in focus and throw that de-doming brings! :thumbsup: Also, none of these lights, when seen in isolation, look anywhere near as green as the following daylight-balanced photo depicts them...

SR52vn_PDT_tints_daylightWB.jpg



On to the MT-G2 light comparison. Vinh also sent me a K40Mvn with a de-domed MT-G2 to compare to my regular, dome-on K40Mvn. Both were set to level 5 output, one down from max. Here is the side-by-side comparison...

K40Mvn_dome_dedome.jpg



In the above shot, the difference in beam focus is hard to see, but in the following animation, it is more obvious. It's quite likely that outdoor beam-shots at more distant targets will make the focus and throw differences between the two far more obvious...

K40Mvn_dome_dedome_animation.gif



Note that there is almost an "XM-L2-like" tint differential in the regular MT-G2 beam and indeed this is visible to the naked eye as well. On the other hand, my EagleTac MX25L3 with its lightly textured ("orange-peel") reflector, shows this tint differential far less, likely due to this texture causing the tints from the different parts of the beam to be scattered and mixed together.

As you can see, the de-domed MT-G2 really has a tremendous tint-shift towards warm, yellowish light... however de-doming also seems to substantially reduce the colour-shift across the corona and spill. Indeed, the de-domed XM-L2 LEDs of the SR52vn lights also show a much improved uniformity of tint, with virtually none of the dramatic shift towards blue that regular, dome-on XM-L2 lights too often exhibit in their spill! So, while I don't really like the visual greenish tint shift of a de-domed XM-L2 flashlight, when its beam is viewed in isolation and not compared to a different, more neutral light, the brain tends to "white-balance" things quite nicely and all seems quite pleasing and uniform! For photographic purposes though, the green tint might prove more problematic if one is trying to mix it with other light sources, but as I demonstrated in a previous posting on the Beam Shots / Photo thread (the "normalized tints" animation), a fairly simple white balance adjustment to a raw file can make even a scene illuminated with a greenish de-domed XM-L2, look just as nice as when an MT-G2 or neutral (dome-on) XM-L2 is used.

That said, despite its uniformity, I cannot say that I'm fond of the overly warm tint of the de-domed MT-G2. It has a distinctly "incandescent" look to me in comparison to the dome-on version, and while there are some that would probably really like it, I do not. :shrug: Even when seen in isolation, I find it too warm for my liking...

Also, if anyone has more than one PTD tint of a particular light, it would be interesting if they would comment on the differences that they see themselves and how that compares to the photos that I posted?

Anyway, I hope that was of interest to those trying to decide on tint! I will post some better versions of these beam-shots over the next few days hopefully. Weather and luck permitting, outdoor beam-shots as well!

Lastly, Vinh had generously said I could keep either the PDTw or PDTc SR52vn and send back my own PDTn, if I decided I liked one of the other ones better, but at the moment I am quite certain I'll be sticking with my PDTn... and I'll definitely be keeping the dome-on K40Mvn! 🙂 I suppose there is still a chance I'll change my mind on PDT tint when I use them outside... we shall see...

As a final note, keep in mind also that when you view these images on your monitor, you may not be seeing the colours accurately. I am using an expensive, wide-gamut hardware calibrated NEC SpectraView PA-271 display and the photos I view on it do, generally speaking, very closely match what I see visually... at least apart from that darned PDTn / PDTc coronal tint which seems far more subtle in real life! Most monitors (from the factory) are rather too cool, having a bluish tinge to neutral colours and often they display images with too much contrast as well. But that is all for a completely different topic...
 
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I had the chance to compare two SR52vn...mund and I each brought a SR52vn, mine is PDTn and his is PDTc. Like you, we found that there was a very small difference between the two. Both of them were more or less neutral, to my eye (with a little yellow, and an even smaller green tinge)...we could tell them apart only if we compared them directly. Even turning one off, and immediately turning the other one on, was not enough. The difference was very subtle.

Thanks for the detailed description, and the excellent pics!
 
I had the chance to compare two SR52vn...mund and I each brought a SR52vn, mine is PDTn and his is PDTc. Like you, we found that there was a very small difference between the two. Both of them were more or less neutral, to my eye (with a little yellow, and an even smaller green tinge)...we could tell them apart only if we compared them directly. Even turning one off, and immediately turning the other one on, was not enough. The difference was very subtle.

Thanks for the feedback. Good to hear my vision isn't going or something!

Thanks for the detailed description, and the excellent pics!

Glad you enjoyed it!
 
Love what you did here mmander. Great shots and write-up too! What equipment are you using? Looking forward to your opinion of the outdoor comparisons as weather permits.
 
Great comparison shots Mike! I really liked a photo I saw that you had taken of a 400 yard sideways on beam shot of your TN32. I would love to see some side on long range beam shots of your lights from Vinh.
 
Great tint shots, Mike! :thumbsup:

Thanks!

Love what you did here mmander. Great shots and write-up too! What equipment are you using? Looking forward to your opinion of the outdoor comparisons as weather permits.

Glad you liked it. I used my Fujifilm X-E2 camera and Zeiss 32mm f/1.8 lens for those and the raw files were simply processed with Adobe Lightroom this time. Other raw converters, like Iridient Developer or PhotoNinja, will actually usually do a better job of processing the unique Fujifilm X-Trans raws (Fujifilm is using a non standard CFA on the sensor) but I didn't bother for these first quick tests. The X-series Fujifilm bodies have tremendous dynamic range in a single raw file capture, ideal for beam-shot photos, second only to my Nikon D800. The X-E2 is better for low-ISO dynamic range than any Canon DSLR for example, including their highest end models like the 5D Mark III or 1DX.

An off-topic comment is that I am not convinced I will even keep my Nikon gear long term (my D800 is currently up for sale), the little Fujifilm kit is that good. Their lenses (especially the wide-angles) are among the best I have ever used from any manufacturer, including Leica, Hasselblad and Zeiss, although the Zeiss 32mm is ever so slightly better than the Fujifilm 35mm in a few ways that are important to me. I already have five superb Fujifilm lenses, plus the Zeiss for the X-E2. My keeping the Nikon kit basically depends on what Nikon does later in September at Photokina. If the upcoming D750 body is brilliant and if they release some new wide-angle prime lenses that perform up to the demands of high-megapixel bodies, then I might stick with the Nikon system for a while longer, despite its size and prodigious weight. Now that Nikon has fixed the long-exposure hot-pixel issue that plagued the first D810's, which would have made it far less than ideal for nighttime shooting, light painting and such, that body is also a possibility again. I was actually one of the first to report the issue to Nikon and after they sent me a second body to test which had the same issue, I decided at the time that I wouldn't be buying it due to the problem.

Great comparison shots Mike! I really liked a photo I saw that you had taken of a 400 yard sideways on beam shot of your TN32. I would love to see some side on long range beam shots of your lights from Vinh.

If the weather holds up, I might indeed go back to the same spot as the TN32 beam shots, although it involves a bit of a hike. My flashlight bag is going to be heavy this time 😱 and then there's the camera gear and two tripods as well. I spoke to someone who lives out near the dam I was hoping to shoot at but they seemed to recall there being a lot of flood-lights there at night. Bummer. I might still scout the spot this weekend, just in case the lights aren't bad on the part I wanted to shoot, but I still think the likelihood of someone approving a nighttime photo session there is going to be unlikely...
 
Wow, these photos are fantastic. It would really make it easier to choose which tint option someone would want when buying a light.

Vinh should definitely sticky this thread!
 
Well, 3 hours and 227 photos later, my indoor beam-shot marathon is done. Not only did I do all my V54 lights and the ones Vinh sent for comparison, but while I was at it, I also decided to pretty much shoot every single decent flashlight I own. Afterwards I realized that two didn't make it in, my Zebralight SC52 which is doing glove-box duty, and my little 4Sevens Qmini123 which just got left behind because it was so small... poor thing!

Anyway, tomorrow I will be going through all the the photos, but tonight I decided to put together a fun little video, basically a time-lapse of all the photos in the order I shot them. The rolling credits list all the lights included...

Vimeo Link (much quicker than the original download below)...



[EDIT: Don't bother with the download link following - Vimeo is fine] Here is a link to the QuickTime time-lapse movie for you to watch (208MB download) and it has a soundtrack too, so watch your volume :grin2:. To avoid streaming stutter, you might want to right-click and download the .MOV file to your computer before watching it. I decided to use a low-compression codec since it looked like crap otherwise (still looks posterized), so it turned out to be a fairly hefty download for a mere 45 second movie! I should have said "screw-it" and just used more compression to make it smaller. Oh well...

http://www.sublimephoto.com/timelapse/2014/lots_and_lots_of_beamshots.mov

:tired: Now I'm tired. The photos will have to wait... now it's off to bed...
 
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Some interesting throw results (in grayscale)...

Most of my beam shots from last night were done at a close 33 inches from the white paper background. However, for the throwers and K40Mvn lights, I decided to also test at 15 feet. First up is my SR52vn compared to my TN32 at 15 feet. Image converted to a neutral grayscale to more accurately compare the hotspot brightness visually...

SR52vn_vs_TN32_gray.jpg



Despite the fact that visually, I was convinced the SR52vn did not out-throw my TN32, well guess what: it does! When colour is taken out of the equation, you can see not only how much more tightly focused the de-domed LED is, but also how much more intense the SR52vn hotspot actually is when compared to the TN32. The colour differences in the beam make it difficult to compare them visually. I suspect that only way to accurately compare two throwers visually, as far as hotspot brightness, is if they have the exact same tint. Then again, depending on the colour of what you are lighting up, the tint could of course make a fairly big difference too, so for some things the TN32 would actually look brighter, despite having less overall intensity. However I suspect that lux-meters would basically corroborate these grayscale-converted visual intensity differences...

Next up, the K40Mvn twins...

K40Mvn_dome_dedome_gray.jpg



Once again, it is far easier to tell the differences in hotspot intensity when you take the tremendous colour difference between the dome-on and de-domed MT-G2 out of the equation. Wow, the focus and intensity of the de-domed K40Mvn is seriously impressive, with throw that is not all that far behind the stock TN32 by the looks of it! 😱oo: Well, at least at the 15 foot distance it seems that way. Further away, it is quite possible the TN32 would pull ahead. However I'd say that anyone not bothered by warm tints would be very impressed indeed by the de-domed K40Mvn!

More to come...
 
Macro shots comparing dome-on & de-dome MT-G2...

Here with the lights on their lowest levels, de-dome on the right of course. These are big, 3000 pixel wide files so click on the resizing title bar to see them in detail...

K40Mvn_domes_lit.jpg



You can see a slight "smear" of phosphor from the de-doming and as I understand, the MT-G2 is a pain to de-dome compared to an XM-L2. Also note how much smaller the light emitting area is, which is why the focus and throw are so much improved of course.


Next up is a shot with the lights off, and a single (Cree LED) lightbulb illuminating the MT-G2 LEDs from a few feet away. Very hard to capture them both in one shot. I may do some closer macro shots tomorrow, but for now I have family commitments and cannot spend any more time today. However the weather is improving, so maybe outdoor beam-shots tonight! All my batteries are charged and ready to go again...

K40Mvn_domes_unlit.jpg
 
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Very helpful and in depth. Can't wait for outdoor. !!


Sent from my iPhone using Candlepowerforums
 
Preliminary Outdoor Beam-Shots...

Okay, so tonight I was at the same location as my previous 400 meter beam-shots, Minnekhada Park. There is a nice flat marsh area with a good clear run to 400 meters. I need to get to bed at an earlier hour so that I don't get too screwed up for work next week, so I will only post two sets of animations for now. Much more to come tomorrow!

The distance to the trees is 400 meters, camera was my Fujifilm X-E2 set to ISO 800, lens was the Fujifilm 23mm f/1.4 set to f/2.8 and the exposure time was 6.5 seconds for all these shots. I normalized the tint for the K40Mvn and then synchronized the white balance of all the other shots to that. I framed these shots to avoid foreground overexposure from the spill this time. I have to say, compared to my "white-wall" beam-shots at work yesterday the tint differences seem far less obvious, which makes sense. With most everything in the shot being some shade of green, it does make it harder to differentiate.

First up, a stock MX25L3 (MT-G2), my K40Mvn and the de-domed K40Mvn that Vinh sent for me to test. Man, those modded K40M lights kick butt! :party:

Minnekhada_MT-G2_lights.gif



On the 1.5km walk back to the car through the forest, I had my K40Mvn in hand, and it was awesome... the first time I really went on any sort of hike with it. Really comfortable to hold, nicer than my MX25L3. I just can't get used to the weird flat parts on the EagleTac body and the lanyard attachment seems to be in the way too, since I do like to use lanyards on my lights. Anyway, with the K40Mvn on level 3, you could light up the trail perfectly as far as one needed to see. Even on level 3, it would reach the tops of the trees easily and penetrate the forest with authority and on that output level, it stayed cold to the touch the whole time. Only when the terrain really opens up would you ever need the upper levels. Really impressive light! :twothumbs

Next up, the throwers: all three tints of SR52vn so PDTw (warm), PDTn (neutral - my own) and PDTc (cool), then a stock TN32 thrown in too. I have to say that despite what I saw inside the other day with those grayscale comparisons, on these colour outdoor greenery beam-shots, the stock TN32 is still darned impressive. Probably looks that way since the LED is driven a lot harder and puts out considerably more lumens with a larger hotspot that is (apparently) very close in intensity to the SR52vn at long ranges. It would certainly be interesting to do a distant "white-wall" test, like the dam I was thinking about before, but oh well. However considering how compact the SR52vn is compared to the huge TN32, the performance is still stunning and the in-light charging is just icing on the cake...

SR52vn_all_PDT.gif



Sorry about messing up the aim of those a little - not as perfect as I would have liked them. Again, with the greenery it becomes even harder to tell the three PDT tints apart. Differences are even quite subtle between the PDTw and the other two!

Okay, one more. Lastly, here is a direct comparison between the de-domed K40Mvn and the warm SR52vn. Man, does that de-domed MT-G2 ever have some seriously impressive throw - what a monster! 😱oo: If the tint wasn't quite so warm, I don't think Vinh would be getting that light back! I really do prefer the colour of the dome-on MT-G2...

Minnekhada_K40MvnDD_versus_SR52.gif



More tomorrow... good night all!
 
Mmander... I'm thoroughly enjoying this. Thank You!


Awesome tog,awesome work and really appreciated with time taken,i have similar taste and love the mtg2 dome on(have the tn35vn dome on) and although its a beast de-domed its just a little too warm for me. I do struggle between the n and c of the 2 sr52vn ,very similar in your pics but wow what a light,its certainly one of my favourite for size/output/in built charge and build...........not to mention vinhs magic just makes an awesome all round compact thrower(i have the sr52vn pdtc)

:thumbsup:
 
SR52vn - All PDT Tint Options...

Okay, so I spent way too much time struggling to get an animated GIF to properly portray the subtle tint differences between the PDTn and PDTc tints. With only 256 colours and dithering to work with, no matter with what rendering options I tried to create the GIF color-table (perceptual, selective, adaptive), none of them showed any difference between the neutral and cool tints. The difference is subtle enough that no matter what I tried, Photoshop just decided that they were close enough to receive the same hue after conversion from 8-bit RGB. I even took out the red 'vn' lettering to free up a few spaces in the colour table, but that didn't help either. I cranked up the saturation to artificially create more tint separation but then the resulting animation didn't look right either. :shrug: I finally decided to give up and just show the tints side by side....

The image below is a composite of four separate images. The bottom cropped image is of all three lights side by side, and the white balance was set to the spill region of the PDTn so that area, by the numbers, has equal RGB values in Photoshop - so dead neutral. I then used the exact same white balance setting for the zoomed in images at the top, three different individual images, each light with a much shorter exposure in order to show the tint in the hotspots of the beams.


PDT_tints.jpg



Note that doing a custom white balance here serves to illustrate the relative colour differences in the lights only. Depending on what other lights you might be comparing the beams to, or what the colour temperature is of any ambient light, you may perceive the colour of these beams in a totally different way! The brain is great at "auto-white-balance" but when you have multiple different light sources with different colour temperatures, your brain will latch onto one of them and declare "This is white!" which then suddenly skews the perception of all the other light sources in the same environment. It is deceptive to think that any single photo could ever be a definitive reference for colour!

For example, say I am shining my K40Mvn side-by-side with my SR52vn at a white ceiling with a bit of filtered daylight coming through the blinds (just did that now). To me, the dome-on K40Mvn looks quite neutral (why I like the MT-G2 so much!) but the SR52vn looks rather greenish in comparison. In fact, in the below photo (my K40Mvn at top left and top-right is the de-domed K40Mvn), I set the white balance to my dome-on K40Mvn at the transition between the slightly yellowish corona and the more neutral spill, then I copied that white-balance setting to the same shot of the three SR52vn lights that is in the above photo and composited the two together. What is see in this composite is actually very similar to what I am seeing in real life right now, shining them on my white ceiling...

MTG_vs_PDT.jpg



So, please keep in mind that our perception of colour can be influenced by many things and when a light source is reasonably neutral and is the only source lighting a scene, our brains can generally compensate enough so we see white as white. If a light source is skewed too far away from neutral, then we may perceive that colour and suddenly things might take on a a warm or cool overall tint. For example, the de-domed K40Mvn is borderline for me... if it is absolutely the only light source, I can just barely see it as neutral. However with any other light in the environment at all, it looks too warm and yellowish for my liking. The same goes for my cool-white Nitecore SRT7 but in the other tint direction: with any other light source around, I find the spill to be unpleasantly blue. Note that this discussion is just about white-point neutrality and not colour rendering. How well one can differentiate subtle colour differences with any given light is another topic entirely...

Lastly, with such subtle differences in the three PDT tints, especially the neutral and cool ones, I'd say natural variation from one LED to the next could mean that a second completely different set of three lights might end up looking different than the ones I ended up testing. My take is that if you like a warmer light, definitely get the PDTw. It is quite nice actually and I don't perceive it as anywhere near as warm as the de-domed MT-G2. As far as the PDTn and PDTc, at least in my samples, the cool one is slightly more greenish, so I most definitely prefer the PDTn the most over all of them. On the other hand, unless shining them at a white wall, there is virtually no detectable visual difference between the neutral and cool ones that I tested.

By the way, here is the setup with overhead lights on, showing the 12 foot wide roll of seamless paper...

PDT_shot_setup.jpg



Now I am off to dinner with some friends. May post a few more things later tonight...
 
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Amazing work, and great explanation of the issues involved! I feel like you are teaching a class, here, and I am definitely learning from it. Fantastic job!
 
I feel like you are teaching a class, here, and I am definitely learning from it. Fantastic job!

I'm glad you are enjoying it, but yikes... I hope I don't sound too much like I am lecturing?! I seem to have a habit of doing that at times...

By the way, one of the truly strangest instances of my brain "auto-white-balancing" was on a camping trip last year. At a campsite, I went into an outhouse and as I was sitting there, I suddenly noticed that my bare arms had an absolutely terrible, sickly and cadaverous look to them. It was so weird looking that I actually kind of freaked out for a moment and thought I really was sick, was having an allergic reaction or something like that. I actually remember looking at the toilet paper roll and thought, no it looks white, the light must be fine?! Looked back at my arms and still they looked weird.
:wtf:

I then noticed that through the crack at the bottom of the door, there was an incredibly purple light coming in from outside and then I looked up and around and noticed all the corrugated green panels in the ceiling. A few other small cracks of light were shining in here and there and those looked immensely purple too. My brain had latched onto the heavily green-tinted light and said, "Okay... this is white" so the white toilet paper looked fine, as did everything else... more or less. However the colour rendering of my arms was hugely affected by the lack of magenta light, which made the skin look extremely unhealthy. I then realized what was going on but no matter how much I concentrated, I could not make the inside of the outhouse actually look green to me and make the outside light coming in look normal - it stayed throughly magenta.

:toilet:

When I was done and opened the outside door, suddenly whammo, my brain normalized to the outside light and abruptly the outhouse did look green inside and of course the outside light was no longer purple looking. I think what had happened is, when I went in I closed my eyes for a few moments and when they opened again, that caused my brain to do the weird white balance skew. What might have helped was I was quite tired too, having driven a long way that day. Apart from an instance where some extremely narrow-band outdoor parking lot lights made my red truck look absolutely grey (even when I put my face up to the paint, I detected no hint of red!), that green light outhouse situation was the strangest colour perception experience I've had in the real world, at least this side of a science fair where they intentionally messed with coloured lights to demonstrate the oddities of human colour perception to visitors.
 
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