Pelican M1 3310

RobertM

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Does anyone know much about these lights? From my searching, am I correct in assuming that it's discontinued and no longer produced by Pelican?

Anyone owns one of these and care to comment? Are they worth the money (I've found them for ~$30)?

Will these lights accept P60 size drop-ins?

Thanks in advance everyone,
Robert
 

LVE2RIDE

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I have one myself..its a good light but not really any brighter than the LED version.Does seem to have a little better reach and is def better on color rendering. I have both the Led and the incan version. Normal CPF reaction..buy both...LOL Dont know if will accept any other heads though.
 

RobertM

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I have one myself..its a good light but not really any brighter than the LED version.Does seem to have a little better reach and is def better on color rendering. I have both the Led and the incan version. Normal CPF reaction..buy both...LOL Dont know if will accept any other heads though.

Is the tailcap switch a forward clicky or reverse? I'm guessing it's a forward clicky but want to make sure. Do you have any others lights to compare it to such as a SureFire E1E? I'd like to get a single-cell (CR123), 15-30 lumen incan, which is why I ask.

Thanks,
Robert
 

MarNav1

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I have a modded one. A Seoul works fantastically well in these lights. Never had an incan model. Mine has a forward clickie on the tailcap.
 

socom1970

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Does anyone know much about these lights? From my searching, am I correct in assuming that it's discontinued and no longer produced by Pelican?

Anyone owns one of these and care to comment? Are they worth the money (I've found them for ~$30)?

Will these lights accept P60 size drop-ins?

Thanks in advance everyone,
Robert

I have one and I like it very much. It is the closest thing to a Surefire 3P that you can get. Get one. Very well made. They accept the P60-type drop ins. You just have to take apart the bezel (it is two parts screwed together) put the LA in and screw it back together. The lamp that comes with it is well made, but not very bright, even with a new cell in it. I threw mine away as I found it to be useless compared to the drop-ins. It is a single cell light, but if you get the Lumens Factory 3.7v P60-type Lamp along with a RCR123, you've got a great little light. Only downside to it really is it has a plastic window, so higher output incan LA's like the LF LA I mentioned above should probably not be used for extended runtime as the plastic will probably melt. It also will take LED drop-in modules used to replace the P60 LA. (best to use instead of incans) The tailcap is a forward clicky, very quiet clicky, and very reliable from my experience. The tail end can use SF tailcaps from the P, C, M series SF's. The M1's tailcap can be used on the aforementioned SF's as well. You can put a 1 cell extension on from SF to make it a 6P if you want. A very good little light overall that plays well with others.:)
 

RobertM

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I have one and I like it very much. It is the closest thing to a Surefire 3P that you can get. Get one. Very well made. They accept the P60-type drop ins. You just have to take apart the bezel (it is two parts screwed together) put the LA in and screw it back together. The lamp that comes with it is well made, but not very bright, even with a new cell in it. I threw mine away as I found it to be useless compared to the drop-ins. It is a single cell light, but if you get the Lumens Factory 3.7v P60-type Lamp along with a RCR123, you've got a great little light. Only downside to it really is it has a plastic window, so higher output incan LA's like the LF LA I mentioned above should probably not be used for extended runtime as the plastic will probably melt. It also will take LED drop-in modules used to replace the P60 LA. (best to use instead of incans) The tailcap is a forward clicky, very quiet clicky, and very reliable from my experience. The tail end can use SF tailcaps from the P, C, M series SF's. The M1's tailcap can be used on the aforementioned SF's as well. You can put a 1 cell extension on from SF to make it a 6P if you want. A very good little light overall that plays well with others.:)

Thank you so much for all the info! That's pretty awesome that it will accept P60 LAs. What are your thoughts on replacing the lens with a glass one? Does it look like it would be very difficult?

Thanks again,
Robert
 

MarNav1

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You just unsrew the end and it drops right out. I wonder if a Malkoff would work since P60 (D26) style will fit? Maybe socom1970 will know. Have fun and experiment I say. Drop-ins are pretty cheap.
 

mdocod

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I have one and I like it very much. It is the closest thing to a Surefire 3P that you can get. Get one. Very well made. They accept the P60-type drop ins. You just have to take apart the bezel (it is two parts screwed together) put the LA in and screw it back together. The lamp that comes with it is well made, but not very bright, even with a new cell in it. I threw mine away as I found it to be useless compared to the drop-ins. It is a single cell light, but if you get the Lumens Factory 3.7v P60-type Lamp along with a RCR123, you've got a great little light. Only downside to it really is it has a plastic window, so higher output incan LA's like the LF LA I mentioned above should probably not be used for extended runtime as the plastic will probably melt. It also will take LED drop-in modules used to replace the P60 LA. (best to use instead of incans) The tailcap is a forward clicky, very quiet clicky, and very reliable from my experience. The tail end can use SF tailcaps from the P, C, M series SF's. The M1's tailcap can be used on the aforementioned SF's as well. You can put a 1 cell extension on from SF to make it a 6P if you want. A very good little light overall that plays well with others.:)

Maximum safe discharge rate for a lithium cobalt chemistry RCR123 cell is ~1.2A (give or take). The lowest output incandescent 3.7V module from LF draws ~1.8A. This configuration should not be used with ordinary RCR123s. Please consider this option only if you are going to use IMR16340 (Lithium Manganese Oxide) cells from AW.
 

kramer5150

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Ive had my eyes on this little bugger... Drop in a DX:11074, and adjust the output to taste/preference. Stock up on RCR123s and you're in business. IMHO it would make an excellent ~35L EDC task light.

Thats nice how the lexan window can easily come out, I always tend to scratch lexan windows.

*edit* Oops sorry I forgot this is the incan forum. ditto mdocods comment above. If you choose to go with an RCR/incan setup, make sure you run the RCR123 cell at a safe discharge rate...otherwise... :poof::sigh::candle:

On that note, most protected RCR123 cells have a current protection circuit. If the light tries to draw excessive current from the cell, the protection kicks in and prevents current from passing at that rate.
 
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socom1970

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Thank you so much for all the info! That's pretty awesome that it will accept P60 LAs. What are your thoughts on replacing the lens with a glass one? Does it look like it would be very difficult?

Thanks again,
Robert

You're quite welcome.:) It is extremely easy to replace as long as you can find the right size UCL or Borofloat lens to replace the plastic with. I don't know the diameter or thickness offhand. It would be a very good idea to replace it with a UCL (Ultra-Clear Lens). Borofloat is unnecessary for the M1 as the Borofloat is really meant for very high temperature, extreme-output incandescent lights. Also, I don't know if a Malkoff drop-in will work, but I've tried four different drop-ins with it and all have worked, FWIW.
 
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mdocod

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On that note, most protected RCR123 cells have a current protection circuit. If the light tries to draw excessive current from the cell, the protection kicks in and prevents current from passing at that rate.

The flashlight community demanded batteries that could light up high bulbs without requiring "multiple-clicks" In order to achieve this, AW, Pila, and Wolf-Eyes had to raise those PCB current limits above the ideal safety threshold for some of those smaller cells.

It used to be, that you couldn't buy a protected RCR123 that would light up a 1.2A tactical lamp, even through ~1.2A is technically a reasonable discharge rate for the cell, and most of them had limits set right around 1.2A, in order to get the cells to reliably light up bulbs in the 1.2A range, the current limit on the PCB had to be raised substantially higher to allow the inrush current to warm up the filament before tripping it.

The limits on AWs RCR123s are set pretty high, higher than ideal as the cells will actually reliably light up bulbs all the way up to around 2 amps.

It's all kind of a compromise, we now have the cells we want, but have to understand their safe limits ad abide by them.
 

RobertM

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One more question for you guys that own them... :)

If you wouldn't mind getting out you rulers...how long is the light in total? Online I've seen some websites advertise 4.0" and others say 4.75" ??? If it's really 4.0", that would make it about the same as an E1B (pretty small for a P60 host), but if it is 4.75", it's really rather large for a 1-cell light (a G2/6P is 5.10").

Thanks everyone,
Robert
 

JasonC8301

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According to my ruler, its a hair right under 4 inches.

It is big for what it does though. I do find myself reaching for it a lot because of the beam. It has a very stippled reflector/orange peel which casts a nice hot spot and even flood. It is my current go to night navigation light.

Second one from bottom. It is a chunky light.

b179627595.jpg
 

jaundice

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Does anyone know if the other version of this light, the M1 2310, has the same body as this one? Is only the lamp different? Or are there other differences?

Thanks,

-John
 

Robocop

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I have had 2 versions of the Luxeon model with the older style having a switch on the side of the body where the newer version has a rear tail-cap switch.

As far as I could tell they are basically the same as far as size goes and I believe both of the current luxeon/incan versions have the tail-cap switch as well.

Optics HQ had a pretty dood deal on the incan version going in the MP under the dealer section. I believe they had these for 24 dollars and I am still thinking of buying one just for something to toy with. I also believe Lumens Factory has drop in lamps that will work in these and improve their performance greatly.
 

RobertM

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According to my ruler, its a hair right under 4 inches.

It is big for what it does though. I do find myself reaching for it a lot because of the beam. It has a very stippled reflector/orange peel which casts a nice hot spot and even flood. It is my current go to night navigation light.

Second one from bottom. It is a chunky light.

b179627595.jpg

Thanks for measuring and posting the picture! It sounds like it's about the size of my SF E1B, but slightly fatter.

The bezel and tailcap aren't interchangeable with SureFire parts are they?

Thanks,
Robert
 

JasonC8301

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Robert - you are welcome.

w180167020.jpg


The picture shows the tailcaps are interchangable in terms of fit but there are several issues.

The Pelican tailcap will work on the Surefire (C2 in this case) with full function (behaves like a clicky.) There is that gap between the tailcap and body but the o-ring is covered though, but I would not trust weather resistant ability. I tried this tailcap on a G2 and it would not work (something about the G2 having nitrolon threads while the C3 has metal ones.)

The Surefire tailcap fits and only works "constant on" on the Pelican light. There is no momentary. I also had to tighten it all the way down to make it work, then sometimes it would not turn on. I think the tailcap spring is too short while the Pelican tailcap has a metal piston type thing and not a spring.

The bezels and lamps will not change due to thread and size issues. (Pelican has a wider head that tapers to a msaller bezel/body contact, while the Surefire remains the same. The Pelican lamp will not fit in the Surefire bezel due to being too big, while the SF lamp fits in the M1 head but has space to rattle around (talking very small amounts but noticable.)

This all being said, I would not place the Pelican tailcap on my Surefire and leave it on because of explosion issues. The P91 lamp draws a good amount of amps and I don't want my cells to vent on me. I am not saying it will happen but I do not want to increase my chances.

Jason
 

yazkaz

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Have a new question regarding the 2310 LED model. I found this on eB
https://www.ebay.com/itm/333945804321

So it turns out the M1 2310 has two configurations, one that looks just like the incan 3310 (albeit with an LED module and slightly different body label) and the other with a side red flush switch and a flat tailcap (with no switch).
Can someone confirm that the earlier incarnation 2310 model had the very same body host specifications as the incan 3310?

Asking because I'd like to get one, and I need to make sure this 2310 shown on eB has the same body specs as the 3310, such that it will be modifiable.
Any take on this?
 
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