milkyspit
Flashlight Enthusiast
PIMPING-OUT YOUR OWN NUWAI Q-III TAILSWITCH!
For months (and months, and months...) I've wanted to post a "howto" guide to pimping-out the tailswitch in Nuwai's Quantum-III (a.k.a. Q-III, QIII, Q3... plus OMBU and many more) flashlight. This is a really cute little light with good ergonomics in general and lots of modding possibilities. In fact, the Milky labs have lately become more of a pimpadelic emporium! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yellowlaugh.gif I have been, and continue to mod (oops, pimp out) these little puppies on behalf of all sorts of CPFers.
This particular post, however, focuses on the task of transforming the tailcap on the Q3 from a simple on-off reverse tactical clicky that cannot stand on end due to the protruding rubber boot... to a dual stage (low-off-high-off) clicky with rubber boot recessed into the tail so the Q3 can stand upright. A number of folks have purchased the dual stage switches from me in the past couple months, and this guide will help them mod their Q3. (Incidentally, I've still got some switches available... PM if you need some.)
Let's begin, shall we? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
First, of course, you'll want to unscrew the tailcap from the Q3 flashlight. Here's the object of our pimping, in its pre-pimp, or stock form. Yes, I know this is trivial, but ya gotta start somewhere! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Stock Nuwai Q-III Tailcap
Inside the tailcap, if you look closely, you'll see a transparent threaded retaining ring with a spring rising from its center. Notice that the ring itself has two notches on opposite edges, at roughly the 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock positions in the photo...
Looking Into the Stock Tailcap, At the Threaded Retaining Ring
A small pair of needlenose pliers and a gentle touch will unscrew the retaining ring with no damage. It's not glued or otherwise locked in place, so it should simply unscrew then come out completely.
Unscrewing the Internal Retaining Ring
Voila! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/party.gif At last you've got the retaining ring out of the tail, and now we can see the back of the circuit board to which the switch is attached. You'll see! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Tailcap with Retaining Ring Removed
That pesky little circuit board is a bit tricky to dislodge! Here's how I do it (shown in the next photo)... hold the board INSIDE the tailcap with the index finger of your left hand, and press the rubber boot INTO the tail using one of the fingers of your right hand. The finger inside the tail needs to keep the board wiggling a little one way or the other, but not too much or the board will get stuck. Just keep pressing with the right finger, and wiggling with the left finger, and eventually the board, switch, boot and all will pop out!
Removing the Board... the Two Finger Method!
See how the boot is not sitting inside the tail? The switch assembly is just about out. Keep going!
Tailswitch Assembly Partway Removed From the Tail
It's out! If all went well, this is what the guts of your tailcap look like...
Tailcap Degutted
Turning our attention to the threaded retaining ring, we'll need to remove the spring from it temporarily. To do that, notice the slot in the center of the clear plastic, and the hook in the center of the spring. Rotate the spring until hook lines up with slot, then remove the spring. You might need the needlenose pliers to help you rotate the spring... sometimes it's pretty difficult! Just don't break anything in the process. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif
Threaded Ring with Spring Removed
The rubber boot sits atop a hard plastic frame. Both should lift off the switch itself easily.
Rubber Boot and Hard Plastic Lifted Off the Switch
Next we'll have to remove the stock switch from the board. Here's what the board's underside looks like, for reference. Pay particular attention to that solder "smudge" toward the bottom edge... we'll be coming back to that later...
Underside of the Switch Circuit Board
Now flip the board upright and snip the leads of the stock switch as close as you can to the board itself. I find that snipping the leads in this way is much easier than trying to desolder the switch, but either technique ought to work. Once snipped, the stock switch should come off the board easily!
Stock Switch, Snipped!
The dual stage switch is identical in side to the stock one, and actually feels like it's higher quality in construction. It just feels right.
But it's got a problem... the leads extend too far out to fit inside the tailcap! So gently, ever so gently, straighten the three leads, then fold them downward as close to the switch body as possible. Here's a comparison of before and after rebending the leads...
Leads Before (left) and After (right) Rebending
One interesting quirk is that the Q3 board is already designed for dual brightness operation! Notice how it's got three holes aligned with the three leads coming from the switch. But the leads are too long, and will have to be clipped shorter so they JUST reach the circuit board itself. Don't worry about getting them THROUGH the holes on the board... a solder attachment from the topside will suffice.
Leads Aligned With the Three Holes
Pre-tin both the solder pads on the board, and the three leads themselves... that'll help form stronger connections. Now position the switch and one by one, melt a little more solder so it flows down the lead and into the hole. Take your time and do this step right, as you'll need good connections to ensure reliable operation.
Dual Stage Switch After Surface Soldering to Board
Oops! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinser2.gif Notice one more thing in the photo above. See the two little solder dots in the foreground, next to the bottom edge of the switch? Those are the same connections that were bridged on the board's underside by that solder "smudge." You now have a choice of how to attach resistance for the low beam: either solder a couple surface mount resistors flat against the underside of the board in place of the bridge... or solder a conventional resistor to these two little solder dots (which are actually holes) on the topside. If you choose the latter, you'll need to protect the resistor itself from getting scraped against the sides of the tailcap during reinstallation... in this case, I'm using a small piece of heatshrink tubing to protect the resistor.
Conventional Resistor Soldered Upright and Covered With a Protective Jacket of Heatshrink Tubing
That solder bridge on the underside of the board will need to be melted away regardless of which type of resistor you use... otherwise you'll short out the resistance and end up with two high beams! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif
Solder Bridge Removed on Board's Underside
Once again we turn our attention to the threaded ring. When we recess the switch boot, that'll force everything else in the tailcap to move inward, and there's usually not enough space remaining for the 123 cell! To resolve this dilemma, I take a Dremel with a tiny cutting wheel and slice the ring in half as shown... note that you'll also need to make two new notches with which to tighten the ring (those are also shown).
Threaded Ring Split in Half
Now find an O-ring that'll fit inside the tailcap... if you can't get an exact fit, I've found that a slightly large O-ring is preferable to a slightly small one. Just cram it down there as best you can, keeping it pressed out to the edges of the tube... then press the rubber boot and hard plastic frame back into the tail. If should extend out the back far enough to press with a finger, but still be recessed enough to stand the tail upright.
O-ring, Rubber Boot, and Tailcap
Next, wiggle the board back into the tailcap VERY gingerly! You don't want to short out the switch leads against the sides, strip the enamel off the resistor, etc. Just take it steady, and it should go in fine.
Circuit Board Replaced In the Tailcap
This is what a recessed switch boot should look like...
Tailcap, Recessed!
Finally, attach the spring to the cut-down threaded retaining ring, giving a little twist to lock the hooked part in... then thread back into the tailcap. Put the modded tail on your Q3, and fire it up! You're done! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinser2.gif
One final note: like many folks, I initially wanted a switch that would give me low-high-off, then repeat, but the low-OFF-high-off (then repeat) was all I could find. Since then, I actually prefer this arrangement! That's because it's more consistent. A single click will always turn the light on or off... and once the light is on, a double click will always toggle between the low and high beams. It's a little like having a poor man's Arc4+ or one of its descendents! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
For months (and months, and months...) I've wanted to post a "howto" guide to pimping-out the tailswitch in Nuwai's Quantum-III (a.k.a. Q-III, QIII, Q3... plus OMBU and many more) flashlight. This is a really cute little light with good ergonomics in general and lots of modding possibilities. In fact, the Milky labs have lately become more of a pimpadelic emporium! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yellowlaugh.gif I have been, and continue to mod (oops, pimp out) these little puppies on behalf of all sorts of CPFers.
This particular post, however, focuses on the task of transforming the tailcap on the Q3 from a simple on-off reverse tactical clicky that cannot stand on end due to the protruding rubber boot... to a dual stage (low-off-high-off) clicky with rubber boot recessed into the tail so the Q3 can stand upright. A number of folks have purchased the dual stage switches from me in the past couple months, and this guide will help them mod their Q3. (Incidentally, I've still got some switches available... PM if you need some.)
Let's begin, shall we? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
First, of course, you'll want to unscrew the tailcap from the Q3 flashlight. Here's the object of our pimping, in its pre-pimp, or stock form. Yes, I know this is trivial, but ya gotta start somewhere! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Stock Nuwai Q-III Tailcap
Inside the tailcap, if you look closely, you'll see a transparent threaded retaining ring with a spring rising from its center. Notice that the ring itself has two notches on opposite edges, at roughly the 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock positions in the photo...
Looking Into the Stock Tailcap, At the Threaded Retaining Ring
A small pair of needlenose pliers and a gentle touch will unscrew the retaining ring with no damage. It's not glued or otherwise locked in place, so it should simply unscrew then come out completely.
Unscrewing the Internal Retaining Ring
Voila! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/party.gif At last you've got the retaining ring out of the tail, and now we can see the back of the circuit board to which the switch is attached. You'll see! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Tailcap with Retaining Ring Removed
That pesky little circuit board is a bit tricky to dislodge! Here's how I do it (shown in the next photo)... hold the board INSIDE the tailcap with the index finger of your left hand, and press the rubber boot INTO the tail using one of the fingers of your right hand. The finger inside the tail needs to keep the board wiggling a little one way or the other, but not too much or the board will get stuck. Just keep pressing with the right finger, and wiggling with the left finger, and eventually the board, switch, boot and all will pop out!
Removing the Board... the Two Finger Method!
See how the boot is not sitting inside the tail? The switch assembly is just about out. Keep going!
Tailswitch Assembly Partway Removed From the Tail
It's out! If all went well, this is what the guts of your tailcap look like...
Tailcap Degutted
Turning our attention to the threaded retaining ring, we'll need to remove the spring from it temporarily. To do that, notice the slot in the center of the clear plastic, and the hook in the center of the spring. Rotate the spring until hook lines up with slot, then remove the spring. You might need the needlenose pliers to help you rotate the spring... sometimes it's pretty difficult! Just don't break anything in the process. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif
Threaded Ring with Spring Removed
The rubber boot sits atop a hard plastic frame. Both should lift off the switch itself easily.
Rubber Boot and Hard Plastic Lifted Off the Switch
Next we'll have to remove the stock switch from the board. Here's what the board's underside looks like, for reference. Pay particular attention to that solder "smudge" toward the bottom edge... we'll be coming back to that later...
Underside of the Switch Circuit Board
Now flip the board upright and snip the leads of the stock switch as close as you can to the board itself. I find that snipping the leads in this way is much easier than trying to desolder the switch, but either technique ought to work. Once snipped, the stock switch should come off the board easily!
Stock Switch, Snipped!
The dual stage switch is identical in side to the stock one, and actually feels like it's higher quality in construction. It just feels right.
But it's got a problem... the leads extend too far out to fit inside the tailcap! So gently, ever so gently, straighten the three leads, then fold them downward as close to the switch body as possible. Here's a comparison of before and after rebending the leads...
Leads Before (left) and After (right) Rebending
One interesting quirk is that the Q3 board is already designed for dual brightness operation! Notice how it's got three holes aligned with the three leads coming from the switch. But the leads are too long, and will have to be clipped shorter so they JUST reach the circuit board itself. Don't worry about getting them THROUGH the holes on the board... a solder attachment from the topside will suffice.
Leads Aligned With the Three Holes
Pre-tin both the solder pads on the board, and the three leads themselves... that'll help form stronger connections. Now position the switch and one by one, melt a little more solder so it flows down the lead and into the hole. Take your time and do this step right, as you'll need good connections to ensure reliable operation.
Dual Stage Switch After Surface Soldering to Board
Oops! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinser2.gif Notice one more thing in the photo above. See the two little solder dots in the foreground, next to the bottom edge of the switch? Those are the same connections that were bridged on the board's underside by that solder "smudge." You now have a choice of how to attach resistance for the low beam: either solder a couple surface mount resistors flat against the underside of the board in place of the bridge... or solder a conventional resistor to these two little solder dots (which are actually holes) on the topside. If you choose the latter, you'll need to protect the resistor itself from getting scraped against the sides of the tailcap during reinstallation... in this case, I'm using a small piece of heatshrink tubing to protect the resistor.
Conventional Resistor Soldered Upright and Covered With a Protective Jacket of Heatshrink Tubing
That solder bridge on the underside of the board will need to be melted away regardless of which type of resistor you use... otherwise you'll short out the resistance and end up with two high beams! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif
Solder Bridge Removed on Board's Underside
Once again we turn our attention to the threaded ring. When we recess the switch boot, that'll force everything else in the tailcap to move inward, and there's usually not enough space remaining for the 123 cell! To resolve this dilemma, I take a Dremel with a tiny cutting wheel and slice the ring in half as shown... note that you'll also need to make two new notches with which to tighten the ring (those are also shown).
Threaded Ring Split in Half
Now find an O-ring that'll fit inside the tailcap... if you can't get an exact fit, I've found that a slightly large O-ring is preferable to a slightly small one. Just cram it down there as best you can, keeping it pressed out to the edges of the tube... then press the rubber boot and hard plastic frame back into the tail. If should extend out the back far enough to press with a finger, but still be recessed enough to stand the tail upright.
O-ring, Rubber Boot, and Tailcap
Next, wiggle the board back into the tailcap VERY gingerly! You don't want to short out the switch leads against the sides, strip the enamel off the resistor, etc. Just take it steady, and it should go in fine.
Circuit Board Replaced In the Tailcap
This is what a recessed switch boot should look like...
Tailcap, Recessed!
Finally, attach the spring to the cut-down threaded retaining ring, giving a little twist to lock the hooked part in... then thread back into the tailcap. Put the modded tail on your Q3, and fire it up! You're done! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinser2.gif
One final note: like many folks, I initially wanted a switch that would give me low-high-off, then repeat, but the low-OFF-high-off (then repeat) was all I could find. Since then, I actually prefer this arrangement! That's because it's more consistent. A single click will always turn the light on or off... and once the light is on, a double click will always toggle between the low and high beams. It's a little like having a poor man's Arc4+ or one of its descendents! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
