Playing with the CreeBar

[kenster]

Haven`t done all I want to do with a CreeBar yet but so far..... I like it! Building a basic CreeBar using a Xitanium driver, Cree strip, and a kit available at the Sandwich Shoppe is simple and goes together in no time at all. :thumbsup: My pics are lousy but here we go.

The kit from the Shoppe has 2 plastic end plates with holes for screws, switch and wires. There is a smooth and a texured side to choose from. Kit also comes with a back or top plate and a textured lens.
**UPDATE** See post #9 for info on upcoming Aluminum end plates!

A tap would have been nice to thread for end plate screws but I couldn`t find the right size. :duh2: No problem, easy to make some threads in the Aluminum with a screw as I ended up doing.

Xitanium driver that runs on 110 volts. This one drives the 6 series wired Cree`s at 350ma. The two 110 volt power wires are a snap to hook up.

Buy the Cree strip with Cree`s already mounted and there is hardly anything to do. Solder 2 wires to the strip and connect to the Xitanium drivers wires. The holes for mounting the strip are already taped.

This is the MC-PET reflective material but I haven`t really got around to playing with it yet so I have no opinion to offer at this moment.

How I bent the MC-PET to place it in the head but again just a picture for you folks interested in the CreeBar to check out for now.

These next 2 pictures were taken with the CreeBar sitting on a table about 1 foot from the wall using no reflectors. First shot has no lens and the second has the textured lens supplied in the Shoppe`s kit. With reflectors it might be different??? This lens adds a textured look to the beam with bare emitters when used up close like a desk lamp light which is what I am wanting. I will go with something clear for a lens or maybe a lighter texture for slight diffusion. Also the Cree strip was all the way down in the CreeBar which makes for to narrow a beam for a desk Lamp as I attempted to show with these pics but with some Aluminum under the Cree strip to raise it to the lens you get a nice width beam. I tried to take some other pictures to show the wider beam but I was hand holding the camera and the CreeBar so......... :shakehead They didn`t work out.

Sorry, that is all the pics I have for now but I plan on more CreeBar fun soon. Great product and let your imagination go with these. Shark driver with a Remora or pot for multi levels of light using a wall wart. NEXT FOR ME! :thumbsup: Then comes the lamp base parts which I haven`t found exactly what I want but I can always break down and set up my Lathe & Milling Machine to make some custom parts I suppose??? :shrug: One of these days I`ll get to those tools!

Ken :wave:

 

[Mash]

Thanks for the write up and pics, a picture wirth a thousand words indeed!
IS there any thermal conductive paste or similar between the strip and the bar itself? Are the crees running cool?

Also in the last pics, is a good demnstration of what I found out in my experiments with multi LEDS as well, ie the shadow effect.
With a diffused light sourse like a normal bulb, or a flourescent tube, you dont get the distinct multi shadow effect as you get with point light sources. Interestingly the textured lens doesnt seem to diffuse the shadow effect at all.
Personally I found this multiple shadows quite irritating on work surfaces etc. What do you think?

 

[kenster]

Mash, the Cree strip needs to be mounted with thermal conductive paste or epoxy for better heat transfer to the CreeBar. This Cree strip is only being driven at 350ma and it doesn`t seem there will be any problem with heat running the CreeBar for extended periods of time at this drive level. Long runs at a higher drive level I haven`t done yet so....??? I called this len in the kit textured because it seems to add texture to the beam rather than just diffuse the beam. The lens may effect the beam differently using reflectors that are concentrating the light for throw??? :shrug: I didn`t try that yet but I will. Need to play with the MC-PET reflective material some more as well. Just starting to goof around with thsi really. The multiple pinpoint light sources of the 6 LED`s does cause a shadowing issue. Other types diffusion material for a lens or sheets of diffusion material over a clear lens sounds like what I will play with next.

Ken

 

[Kiessling]

Nice write-up !!
Thanx !

So this one can be connected to the wall outlets at 110V ?

bernie

 

[TranquillityBase]

Nice job Ken...excellent thread...:thumbsup:

 

[kenster]

Nice write-up !!
Thanx !

So this one can be connected to the wall outlets at 110V ?

bernie

Well, thank you Bernie! Tried to restrain myself from too much of my usual nonsense I throw at you Folks. :tinfoil: I wish I had played further before this post with reflectors, MC-PET and diffusion materials for using a CreeBar as a desk lamp but I get myself into so many different projects at once that well...... I figured I better just post what I have checked out so far and get to the rest??? :thinking: ....... Next week, I suppose.

The Xitanium driver is 110 volt. No dimming control with this driver which I know would be more than just a nice feature so a Shark with Remora or a pot is next using a wall wart to switch to DC. :thumbsup:

Like this pot I have for the job!

***EDIT***

MASH

This thread discusing diffusion might interest you if you haven`t already read it. Links to other threads can be found in it as well.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=169191

 

[Mash]

Thank you Ken!
As a future reference since I presume a lot of people will come to see this thread, and make their own Creebars, a warning! You have to be REALLY careful which Xitanium you select. There are Constant current and constant voltage Xitaniums out there, and you have to look hard to distinguish which is which, also some CC ones have a too high minimum voltage. Instead of hijacking the thread, refer here, post #13 onwards:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=175615
Pick carefully!

 

[kenster]

I have picked up quite a few models of Xitanium drivers and going by size alone only two models I have even fit in a CreeBar. To make it real simple for Folks that might want to choose a 110 volt 350ma or 700ma Xitanium driver for a CreeBar, Cree Strip build, below is a link to the Shoppe`s fixed lighting parts and supplies. Xitanium drivers are on page two and both fit but use your imagination if you are a modder because there are other drivers & emitter combinations you can use as well. :rock: Xitanium driver is just pretty dang simple, fast & easy for a one speed CreeBar light build if a person has not done much in the way of modding. If you have the skills to swap an emitter in a flashlight you can build a CreeBar this way IMHO! DigiKey is one place that has some clamps, magnetic bases and flex arms for simple portable mounting solutions.

Anyway, I really think McGizmo`s CreeBar is a winner with the basic CreeBar and parts needed to get you going available at the Shoppe. From there it is up to you and your imagination.

http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/index.php?cPath=90&osCsid=d19ac206c155ac7b3396578773c06138

Ken:wave:

 

[McGizmo]

Hi Kenster,
Cool!! :thumbsup:

Wayne and I have some aluminum end plates in the works for the CreeBar which will help for some applications. The parts are at the anodizer at present and I haven't seen a first article. These are essentially aluminum versions of the acrylic ones from the shoppe you have posted about here. There is one added feature though which I believe will make DIY projects more fun and easy. The plates have a threaded 1/8" NPS hole in them that is roughly centered about the converter chamber. This hole will accept a male 1/8" NPS nipple or pipe end. Some of the metal flex stalks have 1/8" pipe ends on them which is quite handy. As it turns out, a nice series of Judco clicky switches have 3/8"-27 threads which are a loose sloppy thread fit in a 1/8" NPS thread. This means you can screw one of these switches into the plate at one end and use the other end plate as a mounting base.

Flashlights seem to keep getting in the way of CreeBar progress at my end but slowly and surely.......

The Xitanium 350 mA driver is great with these for a simple single speed light source but like you, I really like the idea of a 3 speed using the Shark/ Remora and a regulated 12V supply to the converter. Since LED's dim with enhanced efficiencies it is a shame not to exploit this!

 

[kenster]

I figured Aluminum end plates would be offered in the future but I didn`t want to toss it out there and just "assume" I was right. These plastic end caps were inexpensive and are fine for some applications. I am happy them but I am looking forward to the Aluminum and I believe I already have some Judco switches that you mentioned. Also, the threaded end plate for mounting is a feature I am wanting so bring on the Aluminum! :thumbsup:

Played around a little with the MC-PET. Interesting stuff! oo: Need to check this out further after the sun goes down. I will try to take some pics to post but here is a quick description of the beam with the MC-PET positioned in the CreeBar as shown in the first post pictures. Using the Cree Strip as bare emitters with no reflectors you have a beam that is a bar of light. With the MC-PET added you now have a "Hot Bar" down the center of that beam instead of the "Hot Spot" we are used to created by the round reflectors in LED flashlights.

Where is Bernie? :candle: Maybe he should add this "Hot Bar" creation to the McGizmo nomenclature?

Ken :wave:

 

[Darell]

Thanks for sharing the great pictures, Ken!

I finally finished my desk-lamp 6-cree jobbie. And you know what I don't like about it (and I see it in your pictures too) - the six stacked shadows on everything. Am I the only one bothered by this?

I was about to start a new thread in fixed lighting about diffusers and such, when I saw your thread here and had to drop by.

My desk lamp, BTW, is run off of one of those 18V regulated warts, and is driven by a stacked pair of bFlex drivers, so I have as many levels of dimming as I'd like. Works GREAT... except for those dang shadows!

 

[kenster]

Darell, yes those shadows! But I am not ready to give up on fixing this myself. There may be a solution but??? :shrug:

Well, you know who I bet knows a lot about diffusion....... The McDude! Seaching CPF about diffusion I stumbled on some of his posts all the way back to 2002 I believe. If you have searched the diffussion material in FASTCAR`s thread, the McMan has played with samples of similiar material back in 2002. :thumbsup:

Sorry, McGuy but you do seem to be.... ahhh... ALWAYS ..... Da McMan!

 

[faiz23]

hey KENSTER

Are you gonna have your own sub forum once you start to mass produce your cree bars lol :twothumbs. Maybe you could trade Don a creebar for a lunasol hey prototype for prototype. Thanks again for the light i got some nanolube for it and it helped alot and a glowring.

thank you

 

[kenster]

hey KENSTER

Are you gonna have your own sub forum once you start to mass produce your cree bars lol :twothumbs. Maybe you could trade Don a creebar for a lunasol hey prototype for prototype. Thanks again for the light i got some nanolube for it and it helped alot and a glowring.

thank you

Howdy My Friend! :wave:

Glad to hear you are enjoying your McGizmo Ti PD-S. Nanolube and Waynes Krytox at The Shoppe are both great products. :thumbsup:

The CreeBar is McGizmo`s invention so I believe he has plenty of them already. Yah, that guy is always 2 steps ahead, aint he??? :ironic: Hehe!

Ken

 

[McGizmo]

Multiple light sources will give you those shadow repeats if the source is bright and concentrated like those LED's. If you move the sources closer together the lines willget closer together. Obviously the closer the item casting the shadow is to the sources the more distinct the lines.

I think something like the MCPET coupled with diffusing film where you both reflect and bounce the light as well as diffuse it will help considerably. :shrug:

 

[Darell]

Multiple light sources will give you those shadow repeats if the source is bright and concentrated like those LED's. If you move the sources closer together the lines willget closer together. Obviously the closer the item casting the shadow is to the sources the more distinct the lines.

I think something like the MCPET coupled with diffusing film where you both reflect and bounce the light as well as diffuse it will help considerably. :shrug:

I've got a great bumpy reflector behind the emitters. I just need a giant sheet of diffuser now. I tried wrapping the whole thing in a white plastic Safeway bag (and boy, didn't THAT look great!?) and it helped... but wasn't enough. Sort of muted the shadows, but didn't get rid of them. I need to really scatter the output. Definitely be easier to bunch these emitters all together! I never even thought about this odd shadow problem before this mod. Wouldn't make a big of difference if it were a "yard light" or similar. But to have it here on my desk is really annoying!

 

[McGizmo]

.... Definitely be easier to bunch these emitters all together! .....

Down side here is of course the thermal consideration.

Many incandescent fixtures use significant diffusing barriers as well as reflective surfaces for indirect bounce which would also serve with LED sources but the transmision losses can take a big bite out of the yield.

I have a CreeBar desk lamp in mind for the guest room desk that I want to try mounting the Cree Strip on its side in the LED cavity and have the balance of the cavity lined with MCPET. I want to put a short wall of the MCPET on the outer side of the LEDs so you can't even see them when looking into the CreeBar. I don't know if a frosted window will be required as well or not.

I believe that there is less loss in reflecting off the MCPET than there is in transmission loss through a LSD film or similar film.

There are unexpected surprises in these lights and playing with them. the multiple shadows are for the most part annoying if they are sharp and distinct and yet they can add interest in some cases. I have had numerous compliments on the effect of the shadow resulting from a coral sconce light that uses the coral to bounce light down into the room quite effectively and without multiple shadow yet leaves an interesting painting of light above it:

There are three Cree LED's here. Imagine what it would look like with six.

 

[kenster]

Darell, if you mean good old wax paper.... been there & done that one. As a yard light the shadow deal is no big deal but for close up lighting like a desk lamp??? :shakehead I suppose I will go for more emitters as a solution using diffusion and dropping the drive current. We will see which way turns out better??? :shrug: The MC-PET I have is already cut for 6 Cree`s and I will try to fit it to my 12 or so Cree`s. These CreeBars are great and I am glad Don has offered them to us FlashaDudes like ME! Good luck with your ideas! :thumbsup:

Ken

 

[Darell]

Great feedback!

Don, yes! I love that affect, for sure. The bad news is that I'm not after "art" on this one, of course Yeah, getting rid of the waste heat is a problem when you cluster the buggers together. Yet as they become more efficient, and we can drive them with lower current, that will get easier, certainly.

Here's an example of the crazy shadows that I see at my desk:

If you count the shadows, that's five Cree Q5's and one red Lux3.

(since my deal isn't about the Cree bar specifically, I'm gonna start a new thread in the fixed lighting forum to see what ideas the others may have). I do like the idea of firing the LEDs into something reflective instead of *through* something that diffuses. Boucing should make for the best mix possible.

 

[McGizmo]

In keeping with the subject of playing with the CreeBar, I offer the following image and comments:

I designed a billet aluminum Makita "dock" and Wayne had a couple prototypes machined by a shop. It turns out that I was close in my design but I still had to remove some unwanted metal from the proto. As a result, the dock slides nicely onto the Makita 18V Li-ion battery and snap locks in place. It mounts securely to the CreeBar via 4 ea. #6 screws. At this point, I could rather easily modify both the dock and the stock Makita blade contact assembly to finish off the docking station. However, I have ordered some copper plate and G-10 plate with the plan of designing and making a connection module from scratch. At this point, this is strictly R&D and I have no idea of what may come of it. I want to complete the dock in a finished and working sample and then pass the helm back to Wayne. At present, the dock design has a milled pocket to receive the bladded contacts module but I will flesh it out with fastening and other features once I design and confirm function of the module itself.

This is my first attempt at designing a milled part of this complexity and I am real pleased that I was able to actually do something with it beyond hold papers down on the table!