Wurkkos

Pocket clip & new option

precisionworks

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The color on AlTiN is dark gray but not quite black, as the forward part of this twist drill shows:

03c16e63.jpg


Typical coating thickness is from 1 to 7 microns with 3 microns being common. 3 µm (which is 0.003mm or 0.000118”) is thinner than thin but works well for machine tooling. A thicker coating would be more durable on a light, with CeraKote running about 100X thicker than any thin film coating. Electroless Nickel plating (EN) is applied at roughly the same thickness as CeraKote but is extraordinarily durable. Industrial Hard Chrome (HC) shares a similar thickness with EN & is done at shops around the world, including one about 1.5 hours from where I live. Next time I go that direction I'll get a quote on a light.
 

souptree

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The AlTiN coated clip on my AlTiN coated Mule-PD is darker than the light. Still not the black of night, but if I was doing a Halloween colored light or something, I'd be happy using it for black.
 

precisionworks

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I would find a way to buy another Haiku and have it AlTiN coated if someone could do it for a reasonable price (i.e. a bunch of us share the cost of the service)

That can work as long as someone volunteers to have all the lights shipped to that person. Before shipment each light has to be stripped down to component parts so the LE, reflector, lens, O-rings, switch & boot, must all be removed. When all the lights are in one place they are shipped in as a group, coated & returned.

The last coating service quoted 2 weeks & took 2 months. If someone wants to organize this I will forward all the contact info to them & they can handle it from there. Hopefully the results will be as expected.
 

js

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Hi guys,
I added an edit to the first post in this thread regarding the necessary tool for installation and removal of the clip screws. This subject has come up numerous times over the years but the various discussions are now buried in old threads. I install the clip screws with the sole intent that they remain in place and I use a very good driver that produces significant torque for snugging the screws in place. Consequently you need a good driver to remove the screws!

I spoke with a salesperson at MIP where the Thorpe driver is made and she told me I would be able to buy some drivers directly from her but I have not heard back from her after sending her my contact information via e-mail. You can find any number of Hobby Supplies on line who offer the MIP Thorpe 1/16" driver but I realize that for some of you international members or folks not living in the states that the shipping can be excessive (it is for me here in Hawaii). If I am successful in obtaining a number of these drivers I will post so in this thread and hopefully be able to offer a driver at the going on-line price but with the advantage of including it with a light and avoiding additional shipping fees.

Don,

I'm guessing that this hasn't panned out, yes? If not, is this the driver in question:

MIP Thorp 1/16 hex driver

I noted that it's "Thorp" not "Thorpe" but assume it's the thing in question?
 

fyrstormer

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That is the correct one, yes. It is the only driver I even try to use on my McGizmo clip screws. It also works well enough on other hex screws, even ones that the driver is slightly too big for. The edges of the bit are extremely hard and I haven't dented them yet.
 

js

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Thanks, fyrstormer! I just ordered my 1/16 MIP Thorp driver and two of the new style 1/4-20 clips, one for my LS20 and one for my Haiku. My SunDrop already has a new style clip on it, and I think it is an improvement in every way on the older style--which was, of course, the very best clip you could get before this newer style became available! LOL!

Yes . . . I like McGizmo products. :)
 

js

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The MIP Thorp driver is really nice! This thing exudes quality! Just like the Titanium screws that Don uses to attach the clip. And just like the clip! Don, you've really hit perfection on these clips! Smooth, BB Ti perfection. Beautiful, wonderful, functional, ergonomic clips.

One note: after I initially installed one of my new clips I felt like it wasn't straight. After some time examining it and thinking about what indicators one could use to determine "straightness" I came up with the following: snug down the Ti screws tight enough to hold the clip in place but loose enough to allow the end to be tweaked a bit. Then tweak the end of the clip (closest to head) so that where it touches the body is exactly centered on the underneath surface of the clip. You can do this also by feel, by inserting a fingernail underneath each side and making the gaps equal. Then do the final tightening of the screws and re-check. When I have done this, the clip has not moved during the final tightening stage. I had thought that the clips would "self-align" but from my (very limited) recent experience, it seems that there is at least a bit of play. When I first installed my new clip, I definitely felt that it was slightly off-kilter, but after aligning it in the above way, it looks perfectly straight.

Don, what do you think? Suggestions? Comments? Any fine-points to offer on clip installation?
 

McGizmo

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js,
I use the same method you came up with. You will notice that the screw holes are elongated to allow for variation in the bend I put in them as well as some axial variation in the screw holes on the pack itself (and different diameter such as the 2xAA pak). These elongated holes do allow for the clip to be off center unfortunately but it's a compromise I felt necessary.
 

js

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I don't think you could not have those holes elongated, Don. Don't you think that if you didn't have an allowance for a bit of play there that the result might well be an off-axis clip that could not be fixed? That would be my worry, certainly. As it is, it just takes a little bit of alignment before final tightening and you end up with a perfectly positioned clip. And they end up ROCK SOLID, too. I really LOVE the feel of these Titainium screws into the titanium body. Very nice feel and feedback as the screws are tightened to final torque. And the MIP Thorp driver just grips these bad boys with ZERO play and slip. And they take it. Despite a couple tries on both installations (one on Haiku and one on LS20) I could see no indications that there was any damage or deformation to the titanium scews.

It all just . . . exudes . . . quality.

Perfection, Don. Perfection. I love the McGizmo pocket clips!
 

4EN[sic]

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Oct 31, 2007
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A couple of overseas companies are "borrowing" your clip design, but the quality is pretty bad. They look the same at first glance but are about half as thin and have little grip on a pocket. I'm curious if you designed that clip style Don, or someone of your team? It works, & looks good doing it! Why oh why is it so hard for anyone else to do properly?
 

The_Driver

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For international members: You can get these Thorp drivers relatively cheap on ebay. I bought mine with shipping to Germany for 16,65$. Here in Germany a high-quality German-made screwdriver can have a similar price.
 

McGizmo

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A couple of overseas companies are "borrowing" your clip design, but the quality is pretty bad. They look the same at first glance but are about half as thin and have little grip on a pocket. I'm curious if you designed that clip style Don, or someone of your team? It works, & looks good doing it! Why oh why is it so hard for anyone else to do properly?

I can't take full credit for the design because the company who makes the blanks for me was already doing a similar solid blank Ti clip with width taper and the two perpendicular bends come from a forming tool they already had. I did a CAD drawing of the profile and cutouts and holes which they cut out for me and then bend at tip and hip. When I get the blanks from them I form the curved mounting bend using tooling and a press I cobbled together and then bead blast the clip to remove some of the tooling marks. They get full credit for using the gage and alloy of Ti in the first place which I think is the major key in the function and performance of the clip. I think my design has enhanced the action and bend properties of the clip as relates to its rigid mount on the flashlight. Titanium's modulus of elasticity and the nature of its response to deflection in this application as well as other similar applications (probably the lock liner of knives if I have used the right terms) give it a significant advantage over other metals here, IMHO.
 

Fatboy00

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Apr 22, 2012
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Don,
Do you offer the damascus clips? or does someones else do those? I am new here sorry if this is not in the right place.
 

Chowderhead72

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Jul 19, 2012
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Could you make a larger version for something sr90 size? 80-100mm?

Btw the mip or Thorpe drivers can be sourced through Tower hobbies or any high end rc store. Hudy/X-ray drivers would also work well and they have billet/knurled handles. I have full sets of both from my rc days and personally I prefer the Hudy.
 

McGizmo

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Hi guys,
I have these clips made for my flashlights. I am not focused on components for other flashlights or exotic materials for cosmetic purposes.
 

nbp

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Don really only does the one clip and that's the one that goes on his lights. He's not into the one-offs/made to request type stuff

Maybe someone like jhanko, or precisionworks or photonfanatic could do something totally custom for you guys.
 

fyrstormer

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I actually asked jhanko about some custom short-clips for the Jetbeam TC-R1/RRT-01, and the price quote he gave me was...prohibitive. Also he said he doesn't have time for new projects now.
 

TMedina

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That actually raises a question I had - McGizmo posted a suggestion about modifying the Surefire E-series pocket clip into a lanyard point : http://dmcleish.com/CPF/L1/lanyard-loop.jpg

Since you don't take custom orders, do you have any objections if I inquire about having this modification made professionally through another builder/company?
 
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