Power Outage, How many Lumens, How many batteries? (for lights and more)

Candle Power Flashlight Forum

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Most of us prefer better quality flashlights, which is why we are members of this forum, and most of us were happy to get away from alkaline batteries that leak and ruin our flashlights and cameras, and other electronics.

I would prefer to be not be working on things/boarding up windows/making repairs/, reading, and cooking, with nothing but that free flashlight and candles.

Some of us have endured 12 day blackouts from hurricanes, and have had the need for better flashlights/headlamps/lanterns during the storm, and feel better having flashlights that are better than the cheap, bare minimum available that I consider even inadequate for our car flashlights, it is why we signed up here at this flashlight forum.

Not to mention the earlier discussions of the hazards of having fire sources like lit tea lights scattered all over the house.


Max
 
Ive been reading through the posts and thinking of my preparness level. I think BinDerSmokDat has a very good strategy.

I have a solar panel and 2 usb li-ion chargers, in an emergency i would be able to keep my good lights charged. The past 3 days here its been cloudy, rendering my solar panel useless. If this was an emergency i wouldnt be able to rely on my panel and rechargable batterys, instead id rely on lights with alkaline batterys. This problem becomes even more apparent for people in hurricane zones as their lights might go out and stay cloudy for days at a time. AAs are dirt cheap in bulk and with Panasonics 10 year powerlock they make a good "reliable" backup.

Candles and tea lights are great to have around as well, conserves your batterys for outdoor use and a few light up a room just fine. Imho putting your trust in just a couple high end lights can prove to be foolish in an extended emergency situation.

I think the differences in tactics and opinions span from the differences in comfort level when it comes to the amount and type of light we need. I am perfectly comfortable lighting a few candles and saving my batterys, where others would feel better with 400 lumen light on a ceiling bounce position.

I dont see the difference between reading with a 1 AA flashlight putting out 1 lumen or reading with a Nitecore MH20 on low putting out 1 lumen.

In the end if it works and gets you through it then its great.

As for me heres what i would have in an emergency (stuff i currently own)

20w solar panel
4 powerbanks (32,000mah total)
2 3AAA ultrafires
3 SK68s
1 coast hp1
Nitecore MH20 and EA11
Candles
GE 400 lumen lantern
4 AA lantern 1$
Glow sticks

Id like to have some good 2AA lights in my inventory just havent found any i like yet(need to ask here for recommendations)
 
I will always prefer quality flashlights over junk, and prefer the options of suiting the light to the need whether hand held, headlamp, or lantern, and I prefer rechargeable batteries to leaky, one use batteries. If an emergency stretched into weeks, then I can recharge with solar, or take my house battery chargers out to the car, since some of them use 12v cigarette lighter plugs, or even charge in areas that have electricty.

Candles are fine during winter and I keep some, but in hot climates who wants to use candles when the AC and fans are off? There is also danger with using candles, not to mention they are only good indoors. besides, it's just as easy to have batteries, as it is to have candles.

I do keep alkalines, just as I also have some cheap led flashlights, but those are loaners and giveaways to non-CPF member neighbors during blackouts, not for me.

I also want a flashlight that is adequate for the security needs of protecting my property, and the free flashlight from HF, isn't it
 
Also, I get that coupon for a FREE LED light from Harbor Freight every so often, so I have like 8-9 of them things around the house/garage.
Even on cheap non-name batteries they stay lit for more than 24 hours straight.
On good alkaline batteries the perform even better and provide "mood lighting" for up to 60 hours.

I remember when those 9 led lights came out. Oh boy, did I think, they were "The cat's meow!" I bought a few of them, and more to give away. Eventually, they all failed with very little use.

One of the reasons I started this thread is so that people would evaluate their own needs, and actually determine how many alkaline batteries they will need and/or how many rechargeables they will need to recharge, and how often, for any particular amount of time, and by which means will they use to recharge them. Personally I like redundancy. As braddy already mentioned, some 110v-120v chargers can plug into a car cigar lighter/power port. While I don't have solar, I do have a generator, and a few cars; so I have two means to recharge my batteries.

I'll agree that alkalines, (stored OUTSIDE of electronic components) may well be a part of one's power plan. I just checked, and I have 16 D cell alkalines stored next to my two D cell lanterns. Each three or four D cells will deliver between 140-40 lumens for a week of 7 hour nights, or there-abouts. They'll typically start out high, and drop down, this is dependent upon the driver. At any rate, each D cell has the same capacity as about 12 AAA batteries! Therefore, one lantern with 3 D cells has the capacity of about 36 AAA batteries.

I quoted the above portion of the above post, because I don't think that the run-times stated are accurate. Or if they are... the lights would be single digit lumens, and then sub-lumen. I'd like to suggest that each person does a run-time test, of any light that he considers a part of his outage plan, so that he can better estimate how many batteries he should have on hand.

BenDerSmokDat made a good point of bringing outdoor solar lights into the house if needed. That shows flexible thinking... I like that 🙂 It seems that he is happy with a few low lumen lights. That's fine, it just doesn't work for everyone, so, again, you need to see how many lumens it takes to make EVERYONE in your family comfortable, because ONE unhappy camper can ruin the experience for everyone!
 
I can't understand the insistence of Paklite to continue to sell their little cracker jack lights for so much money, otherwise I'd have bought Dozens for friends and family. As it is I bought One, a few years ago.
Even so, one of their lights, plus a nearly dead, retired smoke detector battery (good idea to have a spare? ) will easily see any family through an extended power outage. -for the regular household needs; you still need other lights for momentary emergencies and for personal missions, to the bathroom, outside, etc. But the long duration, getting along and functioning in a family room needs for lighting could be managed with a Paklite or two and a few old batteries.
 
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I can't understand the insistence of Paklite to continue to sell their little cracker jack lights for so much money, otherwise I'd have bought Dozens for friends and family. As it is I bought One, a few years ago.
Even so, one of their lights, plus a nearly dead, retired smoke detector battery (good idea to have a spare? ) will easily see any family through an extended power outage. -for the regular household needs; you still need other lights for momentary emergencies and for personal missions, to the bathroom, outside, etc. But the long duration, getting along and functioning in a family room needs for lighting could be managed with a Paklite or two and a few old batteries.

I got several SafeLites just exactly for this reason a few years ago and I bet they are out of business now as they were not pricey enough?
They are the same basic idea as the Paklite using 9v cells for crazy long run times.

I really like them and though the light is just putrid and ancient that comes from them they work well as a tool for outages and all 6 of mine have been working every day for years and still do.

One model stays lit at a low level all the time and has never gone dark since I got them!
 
Power outage? I simply lack this. If after 10 hrs when my UPS fails, I have NG/LP back up gen... IF that should fail, I find that several 100lm lights are plenty. 3 1k lumen lanterns. 7 5500lm Handsun HID lights, 24 random hand held 300-1200 lm lights, solar charger, 7 oil lanterns, and about 30 candles.
 
Interesting that there are two distinct "emergency light" needs. One is the short outage (few hours max) where emergency light's power consumption is hardly a concern. The other is for very long extended outage where every mAH or even uAH counts.

Perhaps the best is to experiment what is the minimum needed lighting. I did that measurement and planned from that. My RV lights running off 18650 (boost) and 12V-SLA are my lavish lights during early stages of power out. And if outage gets extended, I know from my measurements (using my 3AA pack with 4xLED ):
- 1x80mA is what I need to take a shower, do kitchen cooking, washing, and eating.
And per-person in my family:
- 1x10mA is enough to walk around as well as to avoid panic in total darkness.
So, I know if extended emergency hits, I know how long I will last once I dip into our reserved fully charge Eneloops (6 Eneloops per person).

Now I approach potential power outage with some claim instead of "what now".


There are plenty of vent-less natural gas space heaters. Here is an example, "Mr. Heater 30,000 BTU Natural Gas Blue Flame Vent Free Heater".

Vent-less is not the same as CO-less. It still emit the CO, just absent a vent to vent it away.

If I am to buy one, I would get one with vent and try to find a way to connect the vent outside somehow. I doubt I would actually buy one. Of course, the next power outage in deep winter will make me think again and kick myself for not doing so sooner.
 
I don't know how many times the CO concerns can be repeated, but hopefully, anyone smart enough to be on this forum, and capable of buying and connecting a natural gas space heater to their water heater gas line, or tapping into their fireplace line, can figure out to get a safe one, and how to use it in an emergency down in the basement or by the fireplace,

They have low oxygen sensors built into them also, and most people have Carbon monoxide detectors. Personally, I would have a couple for power outages, if my winters got harsh enough.
 
My in-laws were out of power for a while too initially but by then restored. They had a power generator but due to improper storage, it didn't work.
- Forget power generators for major storm. Apart from those without gas (and there were many), the "neighborhood chit chat" was many other instances of no-go: generators needs to be stored drained and cleaned. When it wasn't, it just doesn't work when you "pull it out from the garage with the tank half filled a couple of years back".

<SNIP>
- While gas powered generator has its draw backs, I am still thinking about them on and off. Last winter (no power outage), it was -10F some nights and no-heat would have been very hard. The generator is useless to the HVAC heating unless house wiring to the HVAC is changed to accept occasional generator used. For insurance reasons alone, it must be done by licensed electricians. That the generator needs to be drained and cleaned before storage means it is not as much of a "put away until emergency" solution. That is on my mind, but likely I won't do anything until after the next big outage to change my mind.

<SNIP>
Gas stove heating was inadequate for comfort but adequate for survival. It is dangerous so heating is something I must look into for extended power failure in the winter.

I'd like to suggest that powering a properly vented furnace eliminates the CO concerns.

A friend that I offered my generator to after I didn't need mine anymore, was one of those who had a generator that wouldn't start or run properly. He had to take it to a small engine repair shop. Since Rick_NJ also made mention of this being an issue, I'd like to suggest that each person with a generator, add a can of Gumout Carb and Choke cleaner to your "generator" supplies.

Personally, I try to test my generator about twice a year. I disconnect the gas tank, fill an in-line filter with gas... about an ounce... start her up, and run the carb dry. This way I don't have to worry about stale gas gumming up the carb, and I ensure that a spider didn't get in there and clog stuff up.

I have a power washer that I got for free, because if you pored gas in one end, it pored out the other. The float in the carb was stuck to the bottom of the bowl. I dropped the bowl, and used a little carb cleaner, and now, I have a perfectly running power washer, that I share with neighbors and friends :thumbsup:
 
I'd like to suggest that powering a properly vented furnace eliminates the CO concerns.

A friend that I offered my generator to after I didn't need mine anymore, was one of those who had a generator that wouldn't start or run properly. He had to take it to a small engine repair shop. Since Rick_NJ also made mention of this being an issue, I'd like to suggest that each person with a generator, add a can of Gumout Carb and Choke cleaner to your "generator" supplies.

Personally, I try to test my generator about twice a year. I disconnect the gas tank, fill an in-line filter with gas... about an ounce... start her up, and run the carb dry. This way I don't have to worry about stale gas gumming up the carb, and I ensure that a spider didn't get in there and clog stuff up.

I have a power washer that I got for free, because if you pored gas in one end, it pored out the other. The float in the carb was stuck to the bottom of the bowl. I dropped the bowl, and used a little carb cleaner, and now, I have a perfectly running power washer, that I share with neighbors and friends :thumbsup:

This post is excellence.
 
Lantern glare has been a design flaw since the advent of lanterns. It bugs me too. You are not alone, sir.


Same here. I hate looking at bare LEDs and those that are in the bluish range of tints. It doesn't have to be a warm tint per se but I really don't like the ones that look blue. Also those that have a low rate of PWM. I notice the flicker.


One solution on some cheap lamps that I bought ( I also used this o some headlamps and my Luci inflatable solar rechargeable lamp.).

- I used a matte or frosting spray to frost the lenses of some lights and headlamps. I lose a few lumens but I get much more useable light with a lot less glare.

- I used it on my daughter's flashlights so in the even of a power failure, she has a diffused spread of light which makes it easier for her to walk around since she sees more things and the floor rather than trying to point a spot of light.

- I also sprayed the Energizer 2x 2032 mini headlamps with clips in our BOBs since they will be used for walking or closeup tasks. If I need more distance, I have 1xAA tactical lights in there as well. This is besides the ones I have on me.
(I use 2032 since they don't leak. Also they are really cheap here. I can get Energizer ones for about US$1 for a pair. Lithium primaries like AA, AAA and 123s are overpriced here.)


(Posted this in another thread.)
I recently got an Xtar XP1 single bay charger. Charges both Ni-Mh and Li-Ions upto AA/14500 in size. I still have to test the setup but the single bay should put less stress on the solar panel and be easier to charge rather than a the 4-bay Guide 10 Plus.
11745611_10153423663593433_29601537828643831_n.jpg
 
One solution on some cheap lamps that I bought ( I also used this o some headlamps and my Luci inflatable solar rechargeable lamp.).
- I used a matte or frosting spray to frost the lenses of some lights and headlamps. I lose a few lumens but I get much more useable light with a lot less glare.
On diffusion, those cheap thin white disposable grocery bags work well for a diffuser, if you can slip a piece under the lens. I also fold up one to place over a compact, but painfully glaring lantern.
 
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I snipped this from post #462
I also wrote a review of the Walmart "Ozark Trail 300 Lumen Lantern"
It is a low cost ($14.97) single Cree XB-D emitter and runs on three D cells.
It has a high and low and just uses two different resistors.
It has a CW tint, but not a terrible blue. For a couple of dollars I picked up a warm/NW XB-D and it was very easy to swap it in.
A little more challenging was to remove the inner diffuser and swap in one that was a little better.
What really impressed me with this lantern was how long 3 D alkaline cells can power an LED lantern under low loads. I imagine that just about any 3D cell lantern that starts at 50 lumens or less, will run for 7 hours a night for a month. In other words, each D cell (under low loads) will have a similar capacity to a 18650 cell.

I recently used HKJs data to make a comparison of an alkaline D cell to a Panasonic 3400mAh 18650 cell.

If you look at HKJs measured tests, of a D cell alkaline,
http://lygte-info.dk/review/batterie...%20D%20UK.html

and compare it to one of his tests of a Panasonic NCR 18650B...
http://lygte-info.dk/review/batterie...n%29%20UK.html

The D cell at 0.200 amps delivers 17.429 wH
The 18650 at 0.200 amps delivers 12.123 wH

@ 0.50 amp the D cell delivers 12.792 wH
@ 0.50 amp the 18650 delivers 11.714 wH

@ 1.00 amp the D cell delivers 8.750 wH
@ 1.00 amp the 18650 delivers 11.254 wH

------------------------------
@ 3.00 amps the D delivers only 3.7 wH
@ 3 amps the 18650 delivers 10.7 wH

---------------------------------------------------------------
I guess that at about 600ma they are about equal in deliverable watt hours. Below that, the alkaline D cell is up to about 1.5 times better, and above that the 18650 can be up to about 3 times better.
 
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I added the Amazon Basics AA 2500ma (Eneloop)

I also added the tensai 8000ma D cell NiMH
The D cell at 0.200 amps delivers 17.429 wH
The 18650 at 0.200 amps delivers 12.123 wH
AA NiMH... 3.075wH
D NiMH... 11.409 wH

@ 0.50 amp the D cell delivers 12.792 wH
@ 0.50 amp the 18650 delivers 11.714 wH
AA NiMH... 2.997 wH
D NiMH... 11.141 wH

@ 1.00 amp the D cell delivers 8.750 wH
@ 1.00 amp the 18650 delivers 11.254 wH
AA NiMH... 2.914 wH
D NiMH... 11.077 wH

------------------------------
@ 3.00 amps the D delivers only 3.7 wH
@ 3 amps the 18650 delivers 10.7 wH
AA NiMH... 2.690 wH
D NiMH... 10.576 wH
 
I was wondering how 3AA NiMH eneloops inserted into a D cell adapter would compare.
Considering each of the three AAs would have to deliver only 1/3rd of the amperage as each D cell, each's load would be less and they would be able to deliver a slightly higher number of watt hours. I used the above information and 1 amp loads for the AAs and 3 amp loads for the D cells. I also used 0.2 amp loads for the AAs and 0.5 amp loads for the Ds.

For a lantern/light that pulls 3 amps, the alkaline D cell can deliver 3.7 wH, and the 3*AA adapter can deliver 8.7 wH.
For a lantern/light that pulls 0.5 amps, the alkaline D cell can deliver 12.8 wH, and the 3*AA adapter can deliver 9.2 wH.

So once again, this demonstrates that a D cell under low load (I'll define that as less than 500ma load) will outperform NiMH cells, but under higher loads, (IE if you want more light) then NiMH (even 3*AAs in an adapter) will outperform alkaline D cells.
 
Last week we had a heat wave, and a rolling power outage was a possibility.

I have five gallons of gas for the generator. I put them into my car's gas tank, then topped off the car's tank and put fresh gas in the containers for the genny.
I called my dad, and told him to fill his car's tank, and to lower the temp setting on his thermostat a couple of degrees. This way if the power goes out, he'll be comfortable longer. He typically keeps it a little warmer and uses fans.

What do you do to prepare for a brown-out in the summer?
 
Last week we had a heat wave, and a rolling power outage was a possibility.

I have five gallons of gas for the generator. I put them into my car's gas tank, then topped off the car's tank and put fresh gas in the containers for the genny.
I called my dad, and told him to fill his car's tank, and to lower the temp setting on his thermostat a couple of degrees. This way if the power goes out, he'll be comfortable longer. He typically keeps it a little warmer and uses fans.

What do you do to prepare for a brown-out in the summer?
I tested these SPECIFICALLY for power outages in the summer
http://www.wholesalemarine.com/minimax-port-battery-fan-4-5.html?gclid=CJP55ZW5vccCFZU2aQodZgoNxw

On the Tenergy LSD D-cells, they'll run 10 hours a day for about 7 days at half power, which provides a decent breeze with the fan placed 2-3 feet away.

That and a wet towel/bandanna/handkerchief etc works well for preventing overheating in hot weather with no power. Haven't tested them with alkaline D-cells.

I also like Columbia's Omni-Freeze material. It's a synthetic material that supposedly sucks up heat when it gets wet (i.e. even sweating supposedly activates it). Evaporation dissipates the heat.

I also like sticking these in the freezer https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00V9ITMYC/?tag=cpf0b6-20
They can stay frozen for several days in a freezer or cooler for camping etc. without the mess from melting ice.

Depending on the size of the freezer/fridge and how full it is, it's also an option to freeze more of those and put a few in the fridge.


Max
 
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Last week we had a heat wave, and a rolling power outage was a possibility.

...

This turned out to be a big nothing. I recalled once having driven on Rt22 and temperature reads 104F, last week at the same spot at during the hottest time of the day, I didn't even get triple digit. 98F was the worst.

That said, it was hot --- this six in New Jersey has a wonderful idea in cooling themselves down... five cute bears and mommy bear took over a pool from a family - in Rockaway Township NJ

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=77dtqOOaGLo
 
Not just for outages, but summer in general; the evaporative cooling towel. We own a few of these and they're magic, the yoga-mat material really does stay wet and cool for hours, and it's like air conditioning with the tiniest breeze. I will sometimes wear one of these in the car when doing errands on 100+ degree days, highly recommended.
 
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