Preon P1 MKIII

[JulesK]

i just received this light, and e-mailed the company because I'm having a challenging time changing configurations, but thought I would check here, too. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Right now I am in configuration 1 (High), and if I quickly press the tailcap switch, on the last push, rather than "high" flash, it's a medium flash, which I assume is the flash indicating the configuration. From there, to switch to the next configuration, I'm supposed to the button one time to advance. Is this cycle just a "push" or a "click", and how quickly do you have to do it, and how long do you need to have the light on for the selection to occur. (I know you are supposed to have the light off for 5 seconds for the new configuration to be saved.) No matter what I try, I'm still in configuration 1. It's been tricky trying to figure this out. I've been in configuration 4 and 6, but cannot figure out how I got there, and how I'm now in configuration 1.

Thanks in advance.

 

[defloyd77]

So there is only so much you can ask of a pocket clip, IMO Saying that it slipped off thin and slippery fabric is kind of like saying my car slipped off the road when it was icy. You just can't (in life) have one thing that covers 100% of all circumstances. Sure, you can get studded tires, but then then you ruin them when it's dry.

A pocket clip is held in place by static friction. The equation for static friction is Fs=us*N (static friction = coefficient of static friction * Normal force). This is a linear equation meaning you can increase the static friction the same amount by either increasing the coefficient (roughness) or the applied force. So, if your slippery AND thin it's basically a worst case scenario. Mathematically you'll have to add a LOT of roughness to see a practical increase in holding force (see my conclusion below). Since the clip is basically a spring, when the spring is "compressed" by slipping it over the material of your pocket, you effectively increase the Normal force and the holding ability of the clip.

Logic would follow that the thicker the material the better the clip will hold, because this increases the Normal force. One of the big problems with older Preons is the texture (roughness) of the body would quickly destroy your pants pocket. I expect this would be even worse with a thin and slippery material. For me it doesn't make sense to ruin a pair of pants through normal use of a pocket tool, and that's why I opted to remove the roughness and trade it for more spring force.

I have a linear force gage and just conducted a quick experiment using both the old Preon with textured body and a pre-production Preon (PVD Black) with the smoothest surface. To draw the light from my pocket, I get 1.8 lbs of force on the old Preon (rough body/old clip) and 1.4 lbs on the Pre-Production Preon (smooth body/new clip). This is only a 23% difference...not an order of magnitude. Next I put the new (stronger) clip on the old preon and got exactly 2 lbs of force. I also tested all of the current production Preons and did not note a statistically significant difference from the PVD finish. That is to say, the difference in coefficient is so small it's not noticeable.

Conclusion: Okay, so yes there is a difference, but does that really matter in practice? I'd say no because you have to think about the physics of what is causing the light to come out of the pocket. It's getting pushed out, not just falling out on its own. This can happen for a variety of reasons. For example, I carry my wallet in my front right pocket (don't tell anyone) and I've noticed that with some short/fat lights (where the light sits just above the top of my wallet) these get pushed out of my pocket all the time when I sit down, because the light is being pushed by the wallet. It's not the fault of the pocket clip, it's the combination of factors: size/shape of the pocket, pants material, size/shape of my wallet, etc. The force generated in this situation is likely many pounds and no amount of (practical) tightness or roughness is going to keep that light in my pocket under these conditions. The only thing that will have a significant effect is changing that combination of conditions.

These are of course my observations and you are more than welcome to rough up the clip and let us know how you get on. I could be wrong and I'm curious to know. Oh and I want to mention, designing flashlights is really easy as evidenced here.

:laughing: You're a funny man.

I never had the MKII Preons, so I don't know how, so I don't know how much the ribs would or would not have helped. The original Preons though also had a problem staying clipped.

Hey, I'm being honest here and stating my observations here. I've owned and carried plenty of lights and not too many of them come unclipped from my pants unintentionally.

As far as roughing up a clip, I'll give it a try once I get some sandpaper and a guinea pig clip to test it out on, don't want to go messing up the clip until I'm sure I'm going to keep it.

 

[archer6817j]

As far as roughing up a clip, I'll give it a try once I get some sandpaper and a guinea pig clip to test it out on, don't want to go messing up the clip until I'm sure I'm going to keep it.

You could go all out with some skateboard tape

 

[defloyd77]

You could go all out with some skateboard tape

I actually tried some self adhering silicone tape around the body, couldn't even get the damn thing to slide into my pocket!

 

[Burgess]

Ordered my Preon P1 MK3 today !


Just out of curiosity,
what is/was the PWM rate of
47's Q-Mini (1xAA) flashlight ?

I could see and detect its PWM,
but just Barely.

 

[Newguy2012]

I'm not sure what you mean "by hand?" Is there any other way to do it? I was considering putting up some 3D printed wrenches, but I just got some new filament and I'm having issues with the print quality.

I meant without the aid of your 3d wrench. You gave me a solution to loosing the bezel by use a hotpad as an aid to unscrew it. I was wondering if you did it that way.
I would be interested in one 3d printed wrench set, plus a TIR optic if you decide to make it available.

 

[Crazyeddiethefirst]

Yep not even a bad looking light.

Hey Newguy2012, When I was taking pictures of my New MK III Preons I took the time to do a couple comparison shots of the original BetaQR and the Worm in both Nickel & Copper. The shot with the Quick Replease mechanisms removed is especially telling. Funny this I bought one of every color Worm and never realized the similarity's until I read Jason's comment in this thread....
https://i.imgur.com/u6GnoTN.jpg
With the QR(Quick Release) mechanism's removed(1st & 2nd generation):
https://i.imgur.com/xaykcKW.jpg
For reference the 1st & 3rd Lights are Beta QR, and #2 & #4 are Worms).

 

[Chauncey Gardiner]

You must have a pretty small collection then, seems everyone has ripped somebody off at one point or another.

Please identify the ripoff.

~ Chance

 

[defloyd77]

^Showoff

Is that your entire collection?

 

[Got Lumens?]

I would be interested in one 3d printed wrench set, plus a TIR optic if you decide to make it available.

TIR Optics

Please identify the ripoff.

~ Chance

You asked . . .
The clips on all the Preon MKII's were ripped off, with permission though


Speaking of clips, There are some positive differences between the MKII and MKIII clips.
The MKIII clips are a blt longer and feature gradual sloping bends allowing easier and
attachment to thicker fabrics.

 

[Chauncey Gardiner]

^Showoff

I prefer to think of myself as a shareoff.

Is that your entire collection?

No, those are just the pretty ones.

~ cG

 

[tab665]

CG, cant help but to notice the lack of a prometheus light in your line up

 

[defloyd77]

I prefer to think of myself as a shareoff.



No, those are just the pretty ones.

~ cG

Ah, just a select bunch I see. I'm on to you! Hiding incriminating evidence.:tinfoil:

 

[elzilcho]

The guts from a Beta fit into the Preon head nicely. I like the Preon's new emitter but couldn't stand the mode memory. Now I have a forward-clicky Beta.

 

[Got Lumens?]

The guts from a Beta fit into the Preon head nicely. I like the Preon's new emitter but couldn't stand the mode memory. Now I have a forward-clicky Beta.

I've been playing with the new Foursevens. I notice with the new Preon's that it is much easier to use twisty operational mode one handed. The adjustment to just pressing against the head for mode changes combined with a twist to set the mode level works excellent, far better than previous Legacy/MKII versions.

 

[Chauncey Gardiner]

CG, cant help but to notice the lack of a prometheus light in your line up

I count these.

~ cG

 

[bobjane]

I think I'm misunderstanding the instructions to get to Burst.

Light is set to Config 4 - L M H.

From Off I would "press" followed quickly by "click" to get to Burst.

Then "click" to turn off from Burst.

Then "click" to turn on. Now the light comes on in the last used mode +2. So if it was last switched off in L it now comes on in H, if previously in M it comes on in L, if previously in L it comes on in M.

What am I doing wrong?

 

[defloyd77]

I think I'm misunderstanding the instructions to get to Burst.

Light is set to Config 4 - L M H.

From Off I would "press" followed quickly by "click" to get to Burst.

Then "click" to turn off from Burst.

Then "click" to turn on. Now the light comes on in the last used mode +2. So if it was last switched off in L it now comes on in H, if previously in M it comes on in L, if previously in L it comes on in M.

What am I doing wrong?

Interesting. When I do it with low, it comes on in med. med comes back on low and high also comes back on in low.

 

[Got Lumens?]

I think I'm misunderstanding the instructions to get to Burst.

It sounds like the light is thinking there is an extra click. Try double dap(press) and hold without clicking. The light should be on momentary burst, while still holding complete the click. Does the level change or light flicker? If so there is something causing a switching trouble.
Try making sure the switch is fully seated by using a flat pencil inside the battery tube. If the switch is not fully seated You will have trouble because the amount of finger travel will be greater and affect it's switching ergonomics. All else fails send support an email and they will take care of You.

 

[archer6817j]

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