Preon P1 MKIII

Got Lumens?

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How are they folks?
Many thanks for everyone's input so far, Jason appreciates it.:twothumbs

Last checked, this prototype run is sold and on there way to 500 happy owners :D

I will be posting a detailed review of this wonderful NEW Preon P1 MKIII prototype as soon as possible.

The spring has sprung folks! The tailcap switch feature has been upgraded thereby eliminating ~99% of
accidental pocket activation's. I must say the finishes are stunning! These lights are an awesome view into
the New Preon MKIII's future.



BTW, clear battery tube is a wise decision. My Zebralight SC5c has already destroyed one pocket with its super strong clip...
Great observation.
I own pocket knives and can't tell. All my pockets edges are previously torn up from pocket clips and their G10 scales :poke:
The pocket clip on these new lights are the New thicker Foursevens styled and brightly polished. The smooth body is a perfect match for the increased retention resistance over the old original legacy styled FourSevens Preon pocket clips.
 
Last edited:

Got Lumens?

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I received mine this morning and my initial impression is that it appears to be a very solid light. The machining on the light is excellent (as can be seen in the photos posted in the reviews above) and I instantly like the clicky switch MUCH better than the switch that came on the original Foursevens Preons. Most importantly, for me, there is no high pitched whining on my new light in either level like is very evident on my Preon 2. The light has a bit of heft with the battery. I find this nice as sometimes, the Lumintop disappears in my pocket because it IS so light.

Speaking of the battery, the included GP ReCyko has the number "850" listed on it. I'm guessing that to be the mAh of the battery. The four pack of AAA that I ordered from DS (btw, thanks Jason and Co for the bump ;)) list "800" on the battery. Slightly different wrappers, but hopefully, this battery will perform better than the oldish eneloops that I have.

Overall, I'm glad I got in on this...:thumbsup:

Edit: Clearly, my age must be getting to me...I'm trying to figure out this whole "burst" thing. My light is exactly how it came from Jason - Medium and High + Burst. When I double click the light from off, it comes on (which is supposed to be "burst" right?) and there is no 30 second stepdown or even a gradual stepdown that is visual. I've recorded this with my camera and there is no visible ramping down at all, when in fact, it should be noticeable. It would be a small ramping down, but it nonetheless would be visible.

Am I just not getting the light into said "burst" mode? Or, is the light programmed to come on in burst from the factory and then the supposed ramping down of 40% of the visible light?

Nevermind.

Can't wait for the Preon 2!
You really need to have the light on the high mode(Cold Start) using a half press, then double click for burst to visually see the difference with your eyes. I'll include a video segment under the light meter for you to show the drop in lux over time :). The new driver makes it almost impossible to visual see the ramping of the single cell P1. As You, I can't wait to see a reboot of the Preon 2! The ReCyko's that accompany the light are brand new stock, these are an improved 850Mah cell, 50mAh higher capacity than the original ReCyko's. The older ReCyko's performed as well/better than my older Eneloop cells.
 

InvisibleFrodo

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Sep 16, 2014
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963
It doesn't look like the tail is removable.

I really hope that isn't true for a number of reasons. If that's true, the clicky probably isn't user replaceable, and that would make it impossible for Prometheus/FourSevens to offer an optional flat tail cap that shortens the light and makes it into a twisty only, the pocket clip can't be removed or replaced, and that would mean the pocket clip also can't be "upgraded" to titanium or installed in the reverse direction to re-tension the clip if it ever fatigues or gets caught on something and stretched out.

Maybe they just used locktite on the threads?
 

lumenati

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It doesn't look like the tail is removable.
I wonder the same. (not sure how the clip was attached otherwise) I wanted to remove the pocket clip (I don't use them - I just drop it in my pocket.) I was unable to 'loosen' it and it being aluminum additional pressure could distort or mar my new favorite EDC.
 

lumenati

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Last year my Foursevens world was rockin' and rocked.
With Jason's reintroduction of the brand my interest and excitement level is near what it was in 2009, when David Chow introduced his signature line. September specifically, when I joined CPF and pre-ordered four of David's polished titaniums.
Foursevens was quite a ride, but now it's on another course and its pace car has just circled the track. Zoom. Zoom.
 
Last edited:
Joined
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Last year my Foursevens world was rockin' and rocked.
With Jason's reintroduction of the brand my interest and excitement level is near what it was in 2009, when David Chow introduced his signature line. September specifically, when I joined CPF and pre-ordered four of David's polished titaniums.
Foursevens was quite a ride, but now it's on another course and its pace car has just circled the track. Zoom. Zoom.

I think a lot of "passengers" are on board and happy with the direction...... Destination? Only the future will tell, but I'm wearing my :cool:.

~ Chance
 

SaturnNyne

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Cambria, CA: Home of PK's Beast-Toss
Good video; thanks for sharing, Chauncey! Using the golf ball to show outputs is a great idea that I'd like to see in more flashlight videos.

Anyone else used their P1 enough to run down the battery yet? The one that came with it lasted me a couple days of experimenting with it and using it for just about everything, though not much extended use. When it reached the end, I'd been using it for a while on 15lm when it flickered a little, then strobed for a moment, then briefly started a sequence of four flashes (like the indicator for configuration 4, which is what I use), before stepping down in output. I turned it off and ran it back through the levels and found that it'd go back to a higher output than it had dropped to on medium, but high immediately faded a bit when activated. I wanted to see how it'd behave, so I kept using it on low. I got maybe another 10 minutes of low output before it shut off. After that I was able to turn it off, let it rest a moment, and it came back on at a very low level. Ended my test there.

I'm very pleased with this! Maybe this has been standard behavior with Preons, I don't know. The reason I was interested in seeing this is because the Beta isn't graceful at the end of battery life: it'll turn on at 15lm and give no hint of a problem, but trying to shift up to high, or turning it off and then back on too soon after, will often result in it not having enough power to re-fire, so you can be left in the dark until the battery recovers enough. This is my only real complaint about the way the Beta functions, and it's why I almost never carry the Beta alone. (This is a generalization; the Beta has been through a number of iterations on its internal electronics, so I'm just describing what I have.) But it looks like the Preon gives a clear warning when it's done, and will still give some light for a while after. As much as I love the Beta, I must say the P1 scores some major points on it here, for me.

However, while observing levels on the depleted battery, I discovered that the light was now in configuration 6, with all the flash modes present. My assumption was that in running through levels to see what outputs were still available, I must have accidentally hit it ten times in three seconds (though I don't know how, I wasn't hurrying through levels), cycled it twice more to C6, and then turned it off, all without realizing what I was doing. It's possible. But I didn't remember doing any of that, and the fact that at battery's end it was briefly giving those four flashes like the C4 indicator, while simply latched on, made me wonder if some other oddity was responsible. But I assumed that was a coincidence and I did it accidentally.

At least that's what I thought while writing this post...

But then, just now, I turned on the Beta and Preon, side by side, at 15lm and left them for a few minutes (to test observation below), and found I was again at the end of a battery on the P1 (this time a straight-out-of-package Eneloop, so again don't know actual charge). When it started doing its flickering and flashing routine, I recorded a video of it, in case anyone's curious to see for themselves.


After a few minutes of that without stepping down to a solid lower level, I turned it off and on, checked for other levels, let it sit a moment, then let it run a little longer. At one point it either appeared to be in C1 or just didn't want to switch levels, and wasn't able to switch configurations. Eventually I turned it back on and it dropped to a very low level. At that point I put in a fresh battery, configured it to C3, checked to make absolutely sure it was in C3, and put the dead battery back in. I clicked it on without messing with momentary or any clicking through levels, and just let it run until it did the flickering routine and dropped to a low level. I then clicked it off, put the fresh battery back in, and it had reconfigured itself to C6. So I didn't want to believe it the first time, but I've now confirmed that it has a reconfiguring bug when it reaches the end of a battery.

I switched batteries, changed configuration from 6 back to 4, and it was back to normal.

I can't comment on runtimes at this point. I've only run down two brand new batteries, and I don't know what state of charge either arrived in. I used it mostly on low and medium, with occasional runs on high and burst that would be measured in seconds. I still haven't run burst long enough to get through the 30 second timer. And I would guess that my mostly momentary uses over a couple days totaled far less than ten hours, so I was surprised when it gave out as soon as it did. But again, I have to stress that this was on initial charge, and I would not expect the battery to ship anywhere near full, so this is nothing but an initial note. I hope some patient scientist will do a proper runtime for us.

That said, I did observe something I found odd: The Beta and Preon run at about the same medium output, but the Preon is supposedly more than twice as efficient at this level, and yet it also gets noticeably warmer than the Beta. Maybe this could be an indication of better heatsinking transferring more heat to the body, but I'd be surprised if it had not only an advantage in that regard, but one large enough to feel while running at such a moderate level. So I do wonder, how does the P1 generate about the same light and more heat on much less power?

A note on Beta and P1 generating about the same output on medium: After getting a fresh battery in, I again ran the P1 against the Beta at 15lm for a few minutes. P1 got noticeably cozy feeling, while Beta remained barely above room temperature. Looking at them side by side, I started to wonder about the outputs, and I had my 60 year old Weston Master light meter nearby, so I pointed the lights into it and consistently got a higher reading from the Beta. No surprise; it's more concentrated, so it's measuring the higher spot intensity. Then I cupped my hand around the meter like a makeshift lightbox with an opening to stick the lights in, directed the lights into the palm of my hand, and moved them around to get a sense of the reading range of both, depending on where they were aimed. This is a very imprecise method, but the Beta achieved a higher reading in every attempt I made to measure it. Not by a significant amount; both lights look like practically the same output, but with slightly different beam patterns. It's only interesting in that it seems the 219C light is definitely not brighter, but it's generating more heat. I'm curious to hear an explanation of that. Maybe it makes perfect sense due to some difference in driving the emitters, but I don't understand it.

Those are my observations after using it for a few days. Overall, loving the light! Great design, great clip, great interface, great outputs, great emitter, and it even looks and feels nice.



Great post! Love the details!
:thumbsup: That's why I post these rambles! Figure someone will find interest in the little things that sometimes get overlooked. Nice to see an old face.

:wave: Hey, SaturnNyne. So glad you're back. Thank you for posting a great re.... er, your thoughts and reactions.:clap:
Thanks; feels good to stop in here again.

BTW, clear battery tube is a wise decision. My Zebralight SC5c has already destroyed one pocket with its super strong clip...
Same. I carry my SC5c in rear left pocket, and knives mostly on the right. The lip of that pocket on my favorite jeans, at the outer edge where the Zebra sits, is the only one that's come unstitched where it folds over. I really like how secure the clip is, even after bending it outward a little, but it grabs so hard that accessing and putting away the light are too cumbersome for EDC. That's a lot of why I want to move it to more occasional use and replace it with the Preon for quick uses. In comparison, the smooth way the P1 slides onto a pocket feels downright luxurious!

It doesn't look like the tail is removable.
I wonder the same. (not sure how the clip was attached otherwise) I wanted to remove the pocket clip (I don't use them - I just drop it in my pocket.) I was unable to 'loosen' it and it being aluminum additional pressure could distort or mar my new favorite EDC.
Yeah, this part doesn't thrill me either. The switch is the most likely part to fail, the only part that's already making me nervous on my light, and it's not user serviceable. I've been through this with HDS and don't want another light that needs to have its whole back half mailed in for warranty repair twice a year. I'd feel a lot better about it if I could just request and install a new mechanism.

As far as I can tell, it looks like the clip is placed on the barrel, then a collar surrounding the switch is secured above it somehow, with the actual plastic switch protruding from within that, and then the tailcap section (just the rubber boot in the metal tailpiece) screws down onto that collar. It looks like the threaded section would have to be either heated/pried off or removed with some special tool to either remove the clip or service the switch. :/
 

Got Lumens?

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First Thank You for your review and Video!

I will clear up a few things.

As was mentioned this is a test batch, a test run. Let it all out the good, the bad, the ugly and the beautiful. Can't fix what You don't know is broke :D, and Yu'd rather make mistakes on a few, figure out what needs to changed, rather than the many.

The Factory erred and glued the tailcaps on! The tails are removable and serviceable by design if the adhesive can be broke free without damaging the light. Post up any success You may have had battling adhesives like this. Future runs will not be glued.

The switch is all NEW !!! This new design is serviceable. The switches new components feature less resistance than the previous design and a stiffer activation spring.

The clip will be removable. It would be nice to use an old styled Preon keyring attachment ring screwed under the switch, and . . . Anyone up for a P1 flat tail, raise your hand... There are so many possibilities of product ideas that could be incorporated into the P1 flat tail.

The driver is a new proprietary revision that relies upon Ultra High Frequency PWM. This new design is virtually undetectable to most eyes, enables better color rendering on the lower settings, better battery management, and has improved battery low user warning. It is important to stay away from alkaline cells. Alkaline cells will emit gases when discharged at a high rate(possibly damaging the light)

These new lights feature a 219C, a tad bit more powerful than the 219B emitter's. This batch appears to be in the tint bin(s) ~4500 - 5000 kelvin to how my eyes see, pleasant. My preliminary exams show these P1's to be a bit brighter than my Beta's. I too will get some light readings soon.

The sphere used in Jason's video is his specially modified ping pong ball, use extreme care if fabricating your own.

Details will be discussed here over the next few weeks, as others post and interact here.

More soon
GL

Good video; thanks for sharing, Chauncey! Using the golf ball to show outputs is a great idea that I'd like to see in more flashlight videos.

Anyone else used their P1 enough to run down the battery yet? The one that came with it lasted me a couple days of experimenting with it and using it for just about everything, though not much extended use. When it reached the end, I'd been using it for a while on 15lm when it flickered a little, then strobed for a moment, then briefly started a sequence of four flashes (like the indicator for configuration 4, which is what I use), before stepping down in output. I turned it off and ran it back through the levels and found that it'd go back to a higher output than it had dropped to on medium, but high immediately faded a bit when activated. I wanted to see how it'd behave, so I kept using it on low. I got maybe another 10 minutes of low output before it shut off. After that I was able to turn it off, let it rest a moment, and it came back on at a very low level. Ended my test there.

I'm very pleased with this! Maybe this has been standard behavior with Preons, I don't know. The reason I was interested in seeing this is because the Beta isn't graceful at the end of battery life: it'll turn on at 15lm and give no hint of a problem, but trying to shift up to high, or turning it off and then back on too soon after, will often result in it not having enough power to re-fire, so you can be left in the dark until the battery recovers enough. This is my only real complaint about the way the Beta functions, and it's why I almost never carry the Beta alone. (This is a generalization; the Beta has been through a number of iterations on its internal electronics, so I'm just describing what I have.) But it looks like the Preon gives a clear warning when it's done, and will still give some light for a while after. As much as I love the Beta, I must say the P1 scores some major points on it here, for me.

However, while observing levels on the depleted battery, I discovered that the light was now in configuration 6, with all the flash modes present. My assumption was that in running through levels to see what outputs were still available, I must have accidentally hit it ten times in three seconds (though I don't know how, I wasn't hurrying through levels), cycled it twice more to C6, and then turned it off, all without realizing what I was doing. It's possible. But I didn't remember doing any of that, and the fact that at battery's end it was briefly giving those four flashes like the C4 indicator, while simply latched on, made me wonder if some other oddity was responsible. But I assumed that was a coincidence and I did it accidentally.

At least that's what I thought while writing this post...

But then, just now, I turned on the Beta and Preon, side by side, at 15lm and left them for a few minutes (to test observation below), and found I was again at the end of a battery on the P1 (this time a straight-out-of-package Eneloop, so again don't know actual charge). When it started doing its flickering and flashing routine, I recorded a video of it, in case anyone's curious to see for themselves.


After a few minutes of that without stepping down to a solid lower level, I turned it off and on, checked for other levels, let it sit a moment, then let it run a little longer. At one point it either appeared to be in C1 or just didn't want to switch levels, and wasn't able to switch configurations. Eventually I turned it back on and it dropped to a very low level. At that point I put in a fresh battery, configured it to C3, checked to make absolutely sure it was in C3, and put the dead battery back in. I clicked it on without messing with momentary or any clicking through levels, and just let it run until it did the flickering routine and dropped to a low level. I then clicked it off, put the fresh battery back in, and it had reconfigured itself to C6. So I didn't want to believe it the first time, but I've now confirmed that it has a reconfiguring bug when it reaches the end of a battery.

I switched batteries, changed configuration from 6 back to 4, and it was back to normal.

I can't comment on runtimes at this point. I've only run down two brand new batteries, and I don't know what state of charge either arrived in. I used it mostly on low and medium, with occasional runs on high and burst that would be measured in seconds. I still haven't run burst long enough to get through the 30 second timer. And I would guess that my mostly momentary uses over a couple days totaled far less than ten hours, so I was surprised when it gave out as soon as it did. But again, I have to stress that this was on initial charge, and I would not expect the battery to ship anywhere near full, so this is nothing but an initial note. I hope some patient scientist will do a proper runtime for us.

That said, I did observe something I found odd: The Beta and Preon run at about the same medium output, but the Preon is supposedly more than twice as efficient at this level, and yet it also gets noticeably warmer than the Beta. Maybe this could be an indication of better heatsinking transferring more heat to the body, but I'd be surprised if it had not only an advantage in that regard, but one large enough to feel while running at such a moderate level. So I do wonder, how does the P1 generate about the same light and more heat on much less power?

A note on Beta and P1 generating about the same output on medium: After getting a fresh battery in, I again ran the P1 against the Beta at 15lm for a few minutes. P1 got noticeably cozy feeling, while Beta remained barely above room temperature. Looking at them side by side, I started to wonder about the outputs, and I had my 60 year old Weston Master light meter nearby, so I pointed the lights into it and consistently got a higher reading from the Beta. No surprise; it's more concentrated, so it's measuring the higher spot intensity. Then I cupped my hand around the meter like a makeshift lightbox with an opening to stick the lights in, directed the lights into the palm of my hand, and moved them around to get a sense of the reading range of both, depending on where they were aimed. This is a very imprecise method, but the Beta achieved a higher reading in every attempt I made to measure it. Not by a significant amount; both lights look like practically the same output, but with slightly different beam patterns. It's only interesting in that it seems the 219C light is definitely not brighter, but it's generating more heat. I'm curious to hear an explanation of that. Maybe it makes perfect sense due to some difference in driving the emitters, but I don't understand it.

Those are my observations after using it for a few days. Overall, loving the light! Great design, great clip, great interface, great outputs, great emitter, and it even looks and feels nice.




:thumbsup: That's why I post these rambles! Figure someone will find interest in the little things that sometimes get overlooked. Nice to see an old face.


Thanks; feels good to stop in here again.


Same. I carry my SC5c in rear left pocket, and knives mostly on the right. The lip of that pocket on my favorite jeans, at the outer edge where the Zebra sits, is the only one that's come unstitched where it folds over. I really like how secure the clip is, even after bending it outward a little, but it grabs so hard that accessing and putting away the light are too cumbersome for EDC. That's a lot of why I want to move it to more occasional use and replace it with the Preon for quick uses. In comparison, the smooth way the P1 slides onto a pocket feels downright luxurious!



Yeah, this part doesn't thrill me either. The switch is the most likely part to fail, the only part that's already making me nervous on my light, and it's not user serviceable. I've been through this with HDS and don't want another light that needs to have its whole back half mailed in for warranty repair twice a year. I'd feel a lot better about it if I could just request and install a new mechanism.

As far as I can tell, it looks like the clip is placed on the barrel, then a collar surrounding the switch is secured above it somehow, with the actual plastic switch protruding from within that, and then the tailcap section (just the rubber boot in the metal tailpiece) screws down onto that collar. It looks like the threaded section would have to be either heated/pried off or removed with some special tool to either remove the clip or service the switch. :/
 
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I liked em until I turned em on. Then I loved em! :twothumbs

jqkP3ho.jpg


When first attempting to activate the switch one handed, I found it to be a difficult task. However, I'd been gardening for about three hours so my 60+ year old hands were tired. This morning, rested and recovered, one hand operation is still a bit of a challenge but not overly so. Seems a small price to pay to avoid APD. The Lovely Mrs. Gardiner and I were both impressed by the tint and output of the 219C.

~ Chance
 

lumenati

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Joined
Sep 9, 2009
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Bloomington, Indiana
Nice picture, Chance.
For what it's worth, prior Preon heads will work with this light, including 1st generation, 4.2v. Giving them a forward (momentary/tactical) clicky. Here's a pic:
fasZFt.jpg
 

defloyd77

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Joined
May 10, 2007
Messages
2,683
Location
Wisconsin
Mine was out for delivery on the 25th, but for whatever reason it's was delayed.:mad:

I gave it 2 days, so I called the post office to see what's going on, they're going to look into it and talk to the carrier at the end of the day. I swear if that fool took my light :whoopin::twak:
 

Random Dan

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Joined
Jun 30, 2012
Messages
1,371
After carrying the light for a few days, there are only two things that I think could be improved.

1. If the driver is capable, make it so memory can be toggled for those of us who don't want memory.
2. As much as I like the lack of pocket damage from the smooth body, the light can be downright slippery when pressing the switch. Maybe add knurling/rings to the back half of he battery tube (not underneath the clips contact point).

Overall it's a terrific improvement and I'm excited to see what Jason does with the rest of the 4/7s line.
 

defloyd77

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Joined
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Messages
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Location
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Called the post office earlier today and spoke with a nice lady who told me she'd look into my missing package after the carrier returned for the day. She called me back 4 hours later, I couldn't understand everything she said, but I'm pretty sure she said she found it under the carrier's bag. She let me come by to the backdoor during after hours to pick it up.:thumbsup:
 

Got Lumens?

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Called the post office earlier today and spoke with a nice lady who told me she'd look into my missing package after the carrier returned for the day. She called me back 4 hours later, I couldn't understand everything she said, but I'm pretty sure she said she found it under the carrier's bag. She let me come by to the backdoor during after hours to pick it up.:thumbsup:
That's too (expletive) cool! I'm glad You found it!
 

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