So with this hybrid memory and the LMHB sequence, if you leave it on medium, when you turn it back on it will come on medium, but revert to low instead of high on the next half click, so what happens if you leave it on low? Obviously it will come back on in low, but will this hybrid memory make it turn to low instead of medium with a half press?
If it’s set up like the hybrid memory on the Oveready Boss, then yes, it would revert to low again, with a have press. That’s how I always set up my Boss lights so I wouldn’t have to toggle through the bright settings, to get back to low.
Just how I see it: we don't benefit the maker if we don't share any problems we run into as early as possible.As was mentioned this is a test batch, a test run. Let it all out the good, the bad, the ugly and the beautiful. Can't fix what You don't know is broke , and Yu'd rather make mistakes on a few, figure out what needs to changed, rather than the many.
Glad to hear this! Doesn't help my light, so fingers crossed, but the serviceable switch seems a lot more in line with the Prometheus way of doing things.The Factory erred and glued the tailcaps on! The tails are removable and serviceable by design if the adhesive can be broke free without damaging the light. Post up any success You may have had battling adhesives like this. Future runs will not be glued.
Interesting on the temperature. Your guess is 4500-5000k, and I'm guessing about the same. What's surprising is that it's rated at 4000k, while the Beta is 4500k, but my Beta is warmer than my Preon. Both nice, just funny how they range.These new lights feature a 219C, a tad bit more powerful than the 219B emitter's. This batch appears to be in the tint bin(s) ~4500 - 5000 kelvin to how my eyes see, pleasant. My preliminary exams show these P1's to be a bit brighter than my Beta's. I too will get some light readings soon.
One request: Please don’t be that guy who quotes this entire thing in a reply! I been away a while, but I see you out there!
Lol, I see you there!*quotes entire long post*
In brevity, beauty.Got mine. Happy. #shortestreviewever?
There's no going back, I don't think. :thumbsup:Lit up someone’s face in low mode the other night, and not having owned a High CRI light before, was frankly astounded with said person’s face not looking the usual pale colour I’m used to with LED flashlights.
First Thank You for your review and Video!
The Factory erred and glued the tailcaps on! The tails are removable and serviceable by design if the adhesive can be broke free without damaging the light. Post up any success You may have had battling adhesives like this. Future runs will not be glued.
Same here. This is as far as I got:
I had another issue with the end-of-battery configuration-switching tonight, this time in regular use rather than while just puttering about the house. I was out using the light, I think at 15lm, when it suddenly started strobing to indicate a dying battery. I immediately shut it off and switched to another light. Without really thinking about it, I guess I assumed that the configuration was getting switched when I let it sit flashing, rather than the onset of flashing indicating that the configuration has already been changed.
I can confirm that the industrial permanent thread locking adhesive they were not supposed to install, it's not commercial grade lock tite, used to glue these is vibration resistant and also heat resistant to 150°C. You can check your light, but chances are yours won't budge either without permanently damaging the light. It is not coming off without a serious fight. There are no known solvents for this adhesive. The factory will not be using this high grade thread locker in the future by request.After a bit of tinkering today, I can confirm that it is indeed red loctite that secures the threads of the end-cap that houses the rubber boot/button. Still have no idea what's being used to retain the clip. It actually looks like the end-piece that's housing the switch was pressure fit, and sealed with red loctite. Can anyone in-the-know(ie. from Prometheus!) confirm this?
I'm game, but where is my P2 light, I can't find it. Dang, I just ordered a replacement, I need itAre you saying I can use my New head on a Preon P2 body with two AAA?
Can I confirm when you say that the clip is held in the 'usual way', that you mean the switch asaembly is threaded in to the body?
Finally, a serious question - how heat resistant are the components of the switch? I'm thinking more 'boiled water' than 'blowtorch', btw ;p
Out of curiousity, what did you use to heat the light to that temp without effecting the surface finish? And I'm guessing you removed the switch itself before the heading?
Interesting! Thank you very much for the explanation of what's happening, Jason. I wish that weren't the case, but I feel better knowing why it's happening.In any case, the light will reconfigure itself when the battery is dead because it’s actually turning off when it reads .9V. Then when the light is off, the battery recovers voltage and the light turns on again. Basically it’s just turning in and off repeatedly. Generally I recommend recharging early and often [emoji4]
Are you saying I can use my New head on a Preon P2 body with two AAA?
I could not get my Preon MkIII head to work with my P2 bodies. Or my P1s, for that matter. Seemingly not making contact. (a little ball of foil may fix that) However, the older Preon heads do work with the new Preon P1, MkIII bodies.