Preon P1 MKIII

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I could not get my Preon MkIII head to work with my P2 bodies. Or my P1s, for that matter. Seemingly not making contact. (a little ball of foil may fix that) However, the older Preon heads do work with the new Preon P1, MkIII bodies.

I found the same with my samples... the threaded parts of the body tubes are different lengths comparing classic Preon and MkIII. The MkIII head does not make contact with the board when attached to the classic tube. The classic head *does* light up on the MkIII tube, but the O-ring is exposed.
I found mine!

My sample works fine with the Satin EN and the Satin Black. I'll check the other two . . .

Now I have a second one in shipping that has not arrived to compare this to.

Preon%282%29MKIIIbuild.jpg



Edit: I just powered up the original P2 MKII on the MKIII P1 body, and You can see the tint difference side by side, Nichia LED's are cool.
I'll upload a photo later.
 
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RUSH FAN

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Anyone experiencing any issues with the clicky not turning the light on?

I bought one off another member on the sales section, and have experienced on occasion the light not turning on with the clicky. Everything appears to be tightened down, and I have a freshly charged battery in it. Do you think that the clicky needs some work done on it?
 

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Anyone experiencing any issues with the clicky not turning the light on?

I bought one off another member on the sales section, and have experienced on occasion the light not turning on with the clicky. Everything appears to be tightened down, and I have a freshly charged battery in it. Do you think that the clicky needs some work done on it?
Does this happen on all the UI settings? When this happens, does loosening and re tightening the head, w/out clicking clear the trouble? Does the trouble clear itself by re-clicking the switch? Do You know if the other member had the same trouble? Does it happen using different cells? And have You tried No-Oxide cleaner on your cell and driver board? It sounds like residue from the glue off the factory battery isolation tab may be left on the cell or driver board. Does wiping/cleaning the battery contacts with rubbing alcohol have any effect?
 

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Depending upon your bodies physics,
I have found that trying overlapping grips work well. Instead of grasping the entire body within a clenched fist, Use just a two -three finger grip. In my nerve damaged hand it vastly improved the usability and clickiness of the light. Shifting your grip will allow additional support options, assisted head rest options, while applying apposing pressure to activate the switch. Also try using your index finger instead of thumb to activate the switch.
 
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SaturnNyne

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Anyone noticed that the runtime specs for the Preon have been reduced? 60lm level has dropped from 2 hours to 1, max from 1hr to .75hr or less, and low from 120hrs to 100hrs. (The spec summary graphic in the description still claims a 120 hour max runtime though.)
The 15lm level remains unchanged at 10hrs.

I just did a 15 lumen runtime test. Given my results, it'd be silly to pretend I'm not disappointed. No one else is reporting any data here, so I'm left wondering if I'm the only one with a lemon. Or is everyone so concerned with ungluing the tailcap that they're not actually using their lights, lol! :laughing: Seriously though, can someone make runtime observations on their own lights so we can see if they're in line with mine at all?

I needed to get a definite sense of runtime because a week of daily use, with known batteries instead of just pre-charged, had only strengthened my efficiency doubts, which I'd noted here:
I used it mostly on low and medium. . . . And I would guess that my mostly momentary uses over a couple days totaled far less than ten hours, so I was surprised when it gave out as soon as it did.
[...]
I did observe something I found odd: The Beta and Preon run at about the same medium output, but the Preon is supposedly more than twice as efficient at this level, and yet it also gets noticeably warmer than the Beta. . . . So I do wonder, how does the P1 generate about the same light and more heat on much less power?
The answer to how it does that is that it doesn't.

I put charged Eneloops, from the same package, used and charged the same number of times, in the Beta and Preon and turned them on at their 15lm settings. As mentioned previously, the Preon actually appears to be slightly lower in output than the Beta, though not by much.
The Beta is specced at a runtime of 4 hours, the Preon at 10 hours.
10 minutes in, the Beta was running at basically room temperature, while the Preon was very warm all the way to its tail.
90 minutes in, I was surprised to look up and find the Beta cruising along, but the Preon flickering in its usual death throes.
98 minutes, Preon stopped flashing and settled into a steady matchstick glow.
I didn't notice when exactly the Preon shut off altogether, but it was stone dead by 110 minutes.
15lm for less time than the original claim for 60lm. Dude, that's... a bummer and a half.
The Beta dropped to a low output around 3hrs and 25 minutes, and at just over 3.5hrs it gave one last sputter and died.
The Beta is more than twice as efficient as the light that's supposed to be more than twice as efficient as it... so the specs are accurate in a funny sort of way, just reversed. :candle:

Based on my observations in use, I expected this Preon wouldn't be nearly as efficient as claimed, so I had an expectation that both lights might only manage about the same three to four hours, but I certainly didn't expect the P1 to be so much less efficient than the very similar Beta. What more can you say about that... 90 minutes at 15 lumens is not ten hours. It's not even half of the more than three hours of the Beta. This is a remarkably inefficient light—or at least my copy is; hasn't anyone made some observations on theirs yet?

So my feelings are mixed at this point. I really like the Preon overall. Form factor, UI, outputs, clip, beam, tint—all excellent. And I can still get some use out of the light as a smaller alternative for brief uses. But part of why I bought this light was because its UI and impressive claimed efficiency would allow it to largely replace my bulkier AA light for my typical uses. The reality of the efficiency shortfall I'm actually getting from it is that it can't entirely do what I bought it to do. It's not just a disappointing efficiency underperformer, it's is-my-light-broken? inefficient. Seriously, hoping other users will give input here, because it seems like my light's broken, even though the spec page changes have already acknowledged that actual efficiency is less than originally claimed.

0:071:32 1:38 3:24

Anyone experiencing any issues with the clicky not turning the light on?

I bought one off another member on the sales section, and have experienced on occasion the light not turning on with the clicky.
Does it only hesitate to come on for a moment? I've had it sometimes not register an activation for a fraction of a second after an uncertain push, then come on. I think this might have to do with making dodgy connections in the switch when it's not pushed absolutely straight, maybe combined with the feature that's intended to prevent mode changes when bumped? But I can't come up with a sensible explanation of why I'd think that. :) Does this happen with fresh and depleted cells? Mine seems to work consistently on a good battery. Does the problem happen when the button is pressed at a slight angle, rather than straight down? Just throwing out a few ideas.


Also try using your index finger instead of thumb to activate the switch.
I like using it this way, but have found that it makes me more likely to push the switch at an angle, so operation becomes less consistent.
 

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Great Observations:grin2:

Yes on the, You can fool the accidental bump protection by manipulating the switch.

I can't explain some of your results in runtimes, but there are some major differences between the two lights to take
into consideration, but do not account for your findings. Two mode Beta flashlights do not drive the LED as hard as the
Three mode Beta's and so last a bit longer than a three mode. The Beta and the Preon MKIII do not share the same
Class Nichia LED and both use a different driver board. Several specifications are still in testing.

I agree the results don't add up. I'll test a Brass Beta on the New P1 switch body to check for differences.
I just started a Medium P1 MKIII run on a fully charged 800 mAh cell.


Here's P1 MKIII original calculated values chart followed by the Beta then The P1 MKII
Preon P1 MK III
P1MKIIIspecs.jpg

MODES


  • Low (Moonlight) = 1 lumen
  • Medium = 15%
  • High = 60%
  • Max = 100%
  • Burst = 100% (enter burst with 2 fast cycles from any mode)
  • Strobe = 100% @ 20Hz
  • Beacon = 100% double blink every 5 seconds

Low: 1 lumen, 100 hrs

Medium: 15 lumens, 10 hrs
High: 60 lumens, 1 hrs
Max: 100 lumens, .75 hrs-
Burst: 100 lumens, .75 hr

What's up with burst mode?
: This feature is ported over from the flagship Prometheus Alpha Flashlights. It allows you to access maximum output at any time without scrolling through other modes. This also allows you to have maximum output when you need it, but conserve battery by using the standard high mode (60% output) for normal use.




10_large.jpg





Preon P1 Mk II

 
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Got Lumens?

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I just finished a Medium 15% according to the manual, on a freshly charged 800 mAh NiMh and
only got to ~ 90 minutes before LV condition, on my EN SF sample. I wasn't watching it the whole
time, my times are approximate. I just now took the same MKIII head and I am running it again
on Medium 15% using a P2 tube and switch.

Edit: Interesting. So far the head is barely warm enough to tell it is on. Using a single cell the head
heated up more. I'll snap some IR readings and update.

Preon MKIII EN SF Prototype Temperature readings on Medium, 2 Cell 2.4V
Start 0 Minutes . . . . 86°F Room Temperature
After 5 minutes . . . .99°F
After 10 Minutes . . 100°F
After 30 Minutes . . 105°F
Ok The two cell configuration is totally dead after 3 hours on Medium.
I was not monitoring the time of LV this test, but will update with further testing as it develops.​


Preon P1 MKII Satin Black has been running for 100 minutes so far on medium setting connected to the
new MKIII P1 SF PVD P1 body/switch @ 90°F temperature.

I'm into hour 13 on the P2 MKII on Medium setting running two 800 mAh ReCyko cells. The temperature is only 2°F above ambient room temperature @ 83°F.

Still going after ~14-1/2 hours. The output has diminished to less than half.
After ~ 15 hours 45 min it dimmed out. I left the light switched on until now. clicked off, got one burst then no light.
 
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SNES

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:thinking: I'll do a runtime comparison with my copper beta tonight as well and report back.
 
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SNES

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*EDIT
Preon (in medium) started flashing at 1 hour 50 minutes, died completely at exactly 2 hours.

Copper Beta (in medium) died at 4 hours, 45 minutes. Never flickered, just slowly dimmed.
 
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mbp1

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Kinda sucks that the advertised runtimes were reduced. I'm running the medium mode test right now on a freshly charged Eneloop Pro, 15 minutes in and the head is still cool to the touch. The wife is out of the house and she has my old Prometheus Beta on her keys, so can't test side by side. I have been absolutely in love with the new Preon and would hate for that to change if it doesn't live up to its billing. I'm a huge Prometheus fan, over the years have owned several Betas, an Alpha pen (best pen ever made), and several of Jason's TI clips. Such a good guy doing great work, the Foursevens acquisition was like learning your favorite college prospect just went #1 overall in the draft.

If the Preon overpromised and underdelivers I'll be disappointed of course, they're prototypes though so I won't hold it too much against him. I'll let you know how my light behaves.
 

SNES

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Ok, with a fresh eneloop pro:

Preon (in medium) started flashing at 1 hour 50 minutes, died completely at exactly 2 hours.
Copper Beta (in medium) 3 hours 40 minutes in and still going.
 

elzilcho

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The Preon's mode memory isn't my thing, unfortunately, but this thread is definitely making me think about getting a Beta. :thinking:
 

Rstype

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Chiming in to give my two cents. Got a satin nickel preon mk III , a beta copper and beta HA black running on 15 min level.

the preon is the only light that got warmer of the three. I noticed at around the 40 min mark.
The other two betas did not get hot at all.

at around 1:28 min the preon began flickering then stayed lit for about 15 secs. After that began to flicker again. And proceeded the same cycle a few times . Then finally shut off at about 1hour and 34 min.


the copper beta and black HA beta still going strong at 2 hours 6min.

As stated these are prototypes but did find weird the preon experiences temperature change.
First runtime test btw so I hope it helped a little.

All testing was done using Panasonic eneloops nimh 1.2 750mAh
 
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SNES

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4 hours 30 minutes on medium, and the copper Beta is still going! Never got above room temp either. Same Eneloop Pro as tested with the Preon.

*EDIT
Copper Beta died at 4 hours, 45 minutes on medium. Never flickered, just slowly dimmed.
 
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mbp1

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Ladies and gentlemen we have flickering. 1 hr 53 minutes (give or take a minute) and the light is signaling low power, so it'll die any minute now. Bottom line I too can confirm total runtime around 2 hours on medium (15 lumens). That is wildly off spec. What gives here? I don't have any reliable way to measure temp but it isn't particularly hot either. Not what I wanted to see at all.
 
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