Problems with Armytek , Viking v3

[SouthernSorrows]

So I nabbed an Armytek Viking v3 for $34 on their black Friday sale which is great, I like Armytek BUT I just got it in the mail a few hours ago and It's giving me problems with mode switching "I think the tail switch is bad....hopefully :shakehead"

THE ONLY way to switch modes is to have the light turned OFF then half-press the rear switch to change output mode and while holding in the half press on a mode you want, fully press the switch in the rest of the way until it clicks, now you're in whichever brightness setting you half-clicked to.

Now if you let go of the half press before fully pressing it in until it clicks, you lose your setting and have to cycle through them all from firefly on up all over again....and half of the time even that method does not work . It also will not remember the last mode used, if I turned the light off and my last mode used was High when I turn back on I'm now in Firefly :hairpull:. I can also cycle modes by turning the light on/off rapidly on-off = firefly , on-off now = low etc.etc..



I tried cleaning contacts,pulled the tail cap apart checked that out, tried different batteries both 18650 protected and duracell cr123a's, cleaning threads etc.etc.

The turbo mode function works and also the disable/enable strobe mode function works so I don't think the problem is in the head "could be wrong?"

Reeeally wish I wouldn't have sold the predator I had, I could have stolen the *** end off that and tried it on the viking


pardon all the emogi's, I'm half italian and I can't talk with my hands through a keyboard >_<

 

[Tachead]

So I nabbed an Armytek Viking v3 for $34 on their black Friday sale which is great, I like Armytek BUT I just got it in the mail a few hours ago and It's giving me problems with mode switching "I think the tail switch is bad....hopefully :shakehead"

THE ONLY way to switch modes is to have the light turned OFF then half-press the rear switch to change output mode and while holding in the half press on a mode you want, fully press the switch in the rest of the way until it clicks, now you're in whichever brightness setting you half-clicked to.

Now if you let go of the half press before fully pressing it in until it clicks, you lose your setting and have to cycle through them all from firefly on up all over again....and half of the time even that method does not work . It also will not remember the last mode used, if I turned the light off and my last mode used was High when I turn back on I'm now in Firefly :hairpull:. I can also cycle modes by turning the light on/off rapidly on-off = firefly , on-off now = low etc.etc..



I tried cleaning contacts,pulled the tail cap apart checked that out, tried different batteries both 18650 protected and duracell cr123a's, cleaning threads etc.etc.

The turbo mode function works and also the disable/enable strobe mode function works so I don't think the problem is in the head "could be wrong?"

Reeeally wish I wouldn't have sold the predator I had, I could have stolen the *** end off that and tried it on the viking


pardon all the emogi's, I'm half italian and I can't talk with my hands through a keyboard >_<

It has a 5 second reset for mode switching. So, you have to wait about 5 seconds before turning it back on or it will think you want to go to the next mode. Does it remember the last mode if you turn it off and wait at least 5 seconds before turning it back on?

 

[CelticCross74]

I somehow ended up with 3 V3 Viking Pros. What is said above is correct although in my case the firmware must be different because in order to go through the secondary modes(head 1/8th loose)I can either full click or half press my way through the modes from low to high as long as I press the switch half or full click in LESS than 5 seconds. 5 seconds or more and the light goes right back to the last secondary mode used. So YES to set a secondary mode(head loose)cycle through the secondary settings. I have found that half pressing my way through the secondary settings (about 2 second pause between half presses works on all 3 of my Vikings)FULL click on the secondary setting you want it to memorize. Then whenever you 1/8th loosen the head that mode will be there.

Correct, if you dont use even pressure for the half presses the secondary cycle goes back to start. You may have a different firmware version than I do. From what I know there are 4(?) different firmware variants for the V3 AT's. One version needs 3 twists of the head to turn on or off the extra mode(s). Another requires 5 twists of the head. Another requires 10 and I think I read about a version that requires 7. Either way keep working with mastering how much pressure to half press your way through the secondary modes. On all 3 of my Vikings its not a half press its a 3/4ths press that gets them to cycle. Good luck...

 

[SouthernSorrows]

I somehow ended up with 3 V3 Viking Pros. What is said above is correct although in my case the firmware must be different because in order to go through the secondary modes(head 1/8th loose)I can either full click or half press my way through the modes from low to high as long as I press the switch half or full click in LESS than 5 seconds. 5 seconds or more and the light goes right back to the last secondary mode used. So YES to set a secondary mode(head loose)cycle through the secondary settings. I have found that half pressing my way through the secondary settings (about 2 second pause between half presses works on all 3 of my Vikings)FULL click on the secondary setting you want it to memorize. Then whenever you 1/8th loosen the head that mode will be there.

Correct, if you dont use even pressure for the half presses the secondary cycle goes back to start. You may have a different firmware version than I do. From what I know there are 4(?) different firmware variants for the V3 AT's. One version needs 3 twists of the head to turn on or off the extra mode(s). Another requires 5 twists of the head. Another requires 10 and I think I read about a version that requires 7. Either way keep working with mastering how much pressure to half press your way through the secondary modes. On all 3 of my Vikings its not a half press its a 3/4ths press that gets them to cycle. Good luck...

I've used and owned armytek's in the past which had similar controls but this one no matter the timing used or how deep I press, it will not switch through modes unless the light is off. Hopefully they can just mail me a tailcap, and problem solved. I've read elsewhere they make you ship to china if it is a head problem

 

[Tachead]

I've used and owned armytek's in the past which had similar controls but this one no matter the timing used or how deep I press, it will not switch through modes unless the light is off. Hopefully they can just mail me a tailcap, and problem solved. I've read elsewhere they make you ship to china if it is a head problem

If you live in Canada or the US the light just has to be shipped to Canada now for warranty issues. And, they pay for shipping(well you pay and then they reimburse you).

My light works the same as CC's. Mine is the Pro V3 XP-L(warm) and was ordered a few weeks ago. I have the 10 twist firmware and the manual it came with matches its operation exactly.

 

[SouthernSorrows]

If you live in Canada or the US the light just has to be shipped to Canada now for warranty issues. And, they pay for shipping(well you pay and then they reimburse you).

My light works the same as CC's. Mine is the Pro V3 XP-L(warm) and was ordered a few weeks ago. I have the 10 twist firmware and the manual it came with matches its operation exactly.

That's not too bad, if they pay the shipping. I mean as it is I did order direct from them "usually just use goinggear or andrewamanda for my light purchases".

 

[hiuintahs]

When I got my brand new Viking V3, it had problems with the switch right out of the box. I ended up taking the switch out, checking continuity, activating it a couple of times..........it started to work properly. I put it back together. And then it was OK. Months later I tend to remember it slightly acting up with the tail cap switch again, but the problem went away. Not sure I trust that switch.

 

[Tachead]

When I got my brand new Viking V3, it had problems with the switch right out of the box. I ended up taking the switch out, checking continuity, activating it a couple of times..........it started to work properly. I put it back together. And then it was OK. Months later I tend to remember it slightly acting up with the tail cap switch again, but the problem went away. Not sure I trust that switch.

Mine works flawlessly so far and is very precise. I am not sure if I just got lucky on the tint lottery or not but mine has a lovely tint as well.

 

[CelticCross74]

ugh...I typed this long detailed response about the headache of having to deal with AT directly over defects and warranty concerns then the site server crashed out. Aaaanyways. Dealing with AT direct esp AT sourcing from China it is shady as heck. My first Viking Pro V3 came with an emitter 2mm off center. I mistakenly thought at the time I would have to take it up with AT direct even though I bought the light from a state side retailer. So at first I contacted AT(then AT China the Canadian warehouse was not up and running yet)and they wanted first off pictures of the off center emitter which was a lame and odd request but I took pics and posted them in the AT section of this forum. Then they emailed me some shady address that made no sense somewhere in China to send the light to. They wanted me to pay shipping to and from China. The shadiest part was they insisted that I only insure the shipping of the light for $15! Excuse me?? I had just paid over $100 for the light and they basically told me to insure it for $15 only. THIS is when I suddenly remembered I had actually bought the light from a state side retailer. I then took it up with the retailer that turned out to be run by very incompetent people. Not only did they send me a new replacement Viking Pro V3 that was perfectly straight but they never charged me for it and never asked me to return the defective first Viking Pro! Hence I have a free Viking Pro V3 with an off center emitter that I wish I knew how to get to in order to replace with a new emitter. Cracking open Armyteks is according to Vinh impossible without breaking them.

 

[SouthernSorrows]

When I got my brand new Viking V3, it had problems with the switch right out of the box. I ended up taking the switch out, checking continuity, activating it a couple of times..........it started to work properly. I put it back together. And then it was OK. Months later I tend to remember it slightly acting up with the tail cap switch again, but the problem went away. Not sure I trust that switch.

Exactly what I had to do, they told me to use a metal object and check continuity which worked but once I put tail back on it didn't fix the problem like yours. Mine the tail setup is still not working correctly.

Using a metal washer I push the battery forward all the way towards the head and light lights up, let off and on a little pressure to simulate 1/2-3/4 press and I can switch modes. So the mode switch while on function does work, just not with the tail cap/switch installed. With the tail switch on the light I can only switch modes while the light is turned off :shakehead

Waiting to hear back if they are going to just send me a new assend for the light or if I need to send it somewhere for repair/replacement

 

[SouthernSorrows]

I love the tint on this thing as well, I'm waiting for the XHP Viking or predators to roll out though I might go Eagletac or Nitecore depending on the amounts of hoops I may soon have to jump through. Never had problems with armytek in the past so never needed any warranty or replacement work done.

 

[Tachead]

I love the tint on this thing as well, I'm waiting for the XHP Viking or predators to roll out though I might go Eagletac or Nitecore depending on the amounts of hoops I may soon have to jump through. Never had problems with armytek in the past so never needed any warranty or replacement work done.

Yeah, the tint on my Viking Pro V3 XP-L(warm) is awesome.

My warranty experience with Nitecore was far from hoop free. I would rather deal with Armytek any day of the week. Especially since they handle their warranty work through Canada now for US and Canadian customers.

 

[Stigand]

I run 4 Barracudas for pest control and had very similar problems with tailcaps, got same advise from china re shorting out to confirm problem; As I had swapped tailcaps to confirm intermittant problems I spat the dummy and got instant and proffessional satisfactory response.........my only comment would be they are driving these single LED torches to the limits and whether this is the problem rather than manufacturing remains to be seen. Anyway cant fault service.....eventually.
Actually they remind me of Winston Churchill when asked about USA finally joining WW2; he said
" America can be counted on to do the right thing, after all other possibilities are exhausted".

 

[SouthernSorrows]

supposedly I'm now finally being sent a new tailcap/switch sometime in the next "several business days" so if I ever get it "hopefully this year " I'll report back

 

[SouthernSorrows]

UPDATE:

Replacement tail switch didn't work... had to mail the light back for replacement and of course, SAME problem with replacement... they either have a bad batch of lights or bad batch of switches

 

[Woods Walker]

UPDATE:

Replacement tail switch didn't work... had to mail the light back for replacement and of course, SAME problem with replacement... they either have a bad batch of lights or bad batch of switches

Two?

I wonder if the issue isn't the light. I got the exact same light for 34 bucks (Viking V3 Warm XP-L Blackfriday) and the switch seems ok

 

[SouthernSorrows]

Two?

I wonder if the issue isn't the light. I got the exact same light for 34 bucks (Viking V3 Warm XP-L Blackfriday) and the switch seems ok

I got the white light version... I can 1/2 press to change between modes "only when the light is (off)" then when you full press it in to (on) it comes on 1 brightness level higher... and it does not remember the last brightness level used. How does your's work ? can you switch between brightness levels while the light is powered on ?

 

[scs]

I got the white light version... I can 1/2 press to change between modes "only when the light is (off)" then when you full press it in to (on) it comes on 1 brightness level higher... and it does not remember the last brightness level used. How does your's work ? can you switch between brightness levels while the light is powered on ?

It's functioning as a forward clicky should. You can't change modes by half-presses when the switch has already been fully pressed; a reverse clicky can do that, but not a forward clicky. In contrast, half presses do nothing with a reverse clicky unless it has already been fully pressed.

 

[scs]

Furthermore, according to NKON regarding these new AT lights:

"So far the build quality looks good, however switching between the different output modes has been changed by Armytek. You have to click slowly. If you click too fast, then you will not switch modes. You can easily wait a full second between the off-click and on-click to switch to a different mode."

 

[SouthernSorrows]

It's functioning as a forward clicky should. You can't change modes by half-presses when the switch has already been fully pressed; a reverse clicky can do that, but not a forward clicky. In contrast, half presses do nothing with a reverse clicky unless it has already been fully pressed.

:hahaha: I thought this was a damn reverse clicky .... seriously, you'd think technical support would have mentioned this during the many chats...

Luckily I kept the spare switch they sent me from light #1 as the button on this on feels horribly off center... with that tail switch on I don't have to half press as far "the new switch is more like a 3/4 press" and also pressing slowly I can switch between modes while off then full press in to lock in that mode.