Project: Modernize a clunker. (LED drop in)

ausbump

Newly Enlightened
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Oct 27, 2006
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Well with University breaks approaching, I feel the pull of modifications! Time to turn this torch (obtained for a very small amount at an op shop), into a REAL torch.

Currently, the beam is extremely bad, because the wrong type of bulb is in it, and, it runs on two D batteries, which give the wrong voltage for the bulb! Also, the pre-lensed bulb screws up the optics big time when it hits the torch's large lens.

Features of the current light that MUST be maintained:
> Reversibility. Nothing can be done to it that can't be reversed. So no drilling! Screw in/bolt in is of course ok.
> Focus/Zoom. It might be hard to see, but when the torch head (Reflector & Lens) is rotated, the light focus changes. This could be hard to do, especially with a flat SSC/CREE style emitter.

Things that can change:
> Contents (of course), the batteries (was thinking maybe a 6AA barrel holder)
> Pretty much everything else.

So here's the plan.
Create a new board/electrics for it, with a regulator (DX) and cree/ssc led on a board. The existing switch I'd like to keep, although it's very very very basic (As you can see from pictures).
I'd like it to be really bright. It's currently a display torch (sits on coffee table), but I'd like it to cause some 'wow' factor when turned on. I have a L2D-CE and that's more than bright enough.
Cost: I live in Australia, so things can be bought over internet, but CR123/other non standard batteries are not possible. Also, I won't be buying surefire stuff, etc. Cheap is important.

And of course:
PICTURES!
1.jpg



2.jpg

Sorry for the quality - my photography skills are improving, slowly.
3.jpg


Inches and cm included

4.jpg


Well that's pretty much the lot.

I would love to know, from people who have actually completed mods before, what to use, and, how to do it.
I have a full tool kit (power tools as well), but no lathe or welder etc.
 
The fiber looking bulb support and E10 base would not lend themselves to LED heatsinking (especially since you do not wish to make permanent modifications), plus the metal reflector and glass lens (aspheric!) are ideal for an incan mod.

A 6v E10 base bulb like this one could be overdriven from 6AA to produce ~ROP low or P61 level output, and it screws right in. Or since the 8AA battery carrier is a little easier to source right now, a 7.2v bulb overdriven on 9.6v could be just the ticket.

If you'd measure the smallest ID in the battery tube, one of us could tell you for sure if 8AA would fit before you go ordering parts.
 
Right - i'll look a those links in a minute.
The diameters: Hard to measure as I can't find my vernier calipers. However, it fits 2 D cell batteries with a little rattle (perhaps 1/2 a mm greater diameter), and has a spring about 1-2cm in height at the tailcap.

So:
Overall dimensions of battery compartment:

36mm diameter x 134mm length (without tail spring)
In inches:
1.41 X 5.27 (rounding down)

Incandescent is possible, although I'd really much prefer led to give it a more 'modern' feel.

EDIT: Whoops! I pushed on the board, and it popped straight out. It's removable, which probably increases the options available. All i would need is a 3.5cm diameter round board with a contact for the battery in the middle, and one near the edge for the switch. This means that I could potentially make an entire 'slip in' torch/battery led assembly, if that's easier.
Ideas?
 
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36mm ID is wider than a bored Mag and even big enough to hold side-by-side 18650s, so 8AA would certainly fit! But I sure wouldn't use a DX linear regulator on 9.6v (or even 4.8v).

Hmm, that's actually big enough to hold a WA 10W HID ballast and three-across RCR123As...
evilgrin07.gif
 
36mm is wider than a bored Mag and even big enough to hold side-by-side 18650s, so 8AA would certainly fit! But I sure wouldn't use a DX linear regulator on 9.6v (or even 4.8v).

Hmm, that's actually big enough to hold a WA 10W HID ballast and three-across RCR123As...
evilgrin07.gif
Please don't tempt me with non available technology! It'll have to be D cells or AA's. Why not use the regulator from DX?

How does 6/8AA holder + regulator + cree/ssc on custom board sound for an LED version?
What about the incandescent - the link you said didn't have lumen output, but i assume a 10W bulb is rather bright.
 
All of those rechargeables (and their chargers) are carried by DX for cheap:shrug:

Linear regulators convert any excess voltage directly to heat so are best used where the battery voltage is barely higher than the emitter Vf. Any more and efficiency goes down the toilet (the extra voltage is simply wasted) plus the regulator then tends to burn out from all that heat. One reasonable option would be to scavenge the parts from a CREE drop-in designed for two RCR123As and run it on 6 NiMH AAs. Since they generally provide the emitter with 600-700mA they should work fine with slightly dodgy heatsinking. And at 700mA a CREE XR-E P4 bin still produces 130.6-141.6 bulb/87.5-95 torch lumens.

And it's impossible to calculate rerated incan lumens when no rating was given at spec, but a reasonable ballpark estimate would be around 300 bulb/200 torch lumens for the bulb overdriven to ~12w. Microscope bulbs are bright.
 
So what kind of power supply does would i need for that bulb link you sent before? Would AA's be too underpowered, and won't it need a heat sink? - And won't it burn out from all that over voltage? Looking at the pricing of those bulbs, i'd rather NOT burn it out in a few minutes of brightness. What kind of lamp hour rating can you expect?
 
That one would also need a 6AA holder with NiMH AA cells. Incans don't mind heat at all since that is how they work;).

Once again there are no specs given, but if the original rating was 100 hours at 6.0v, then running at 7.2v would drop that to 11.2 hours. If you actually find a bulb with manufacturer's specs, all the rerating formulas are here.
 
These are all good suggestions. I'm delaying a decision for the next few days due to the spate of exams here. Sorry!
 
I have updated MANY vintage lights. Here is a thread showing some of my methods.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=158873
Those are some nice lights!
I plan to keep the original reflector in place, or, at the very least, make sure that it's silver and reflective like the original. The copper is an interesting look though.
Thanks for the link!

Still got to decide what to order, i may create dual inserts (in your style, but minus copper) for the light, one led and one incan
 
UPDATE
I'm going to buy all the led's and other stuff from DX 6 hours from now - so if
you have any suggestions - please make them!

I'm planning to get the premade Cree construction (to place in my headlamp) and a T binned SSC to put in the light in this thread, as well as a premade aluminum mount for it, to help as a heatsink.

Question:
Regulators. Do i need one, and what's wrong with the DX ones - won't they boost the voltage of the batteries when they begin to go flat?
 
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