Quark mini 123 to good to be true

[Flyflash]

There are two main issues with the mini series:
1. thread play. Gets a bigger problem the bigger the light diameter is, as tilting during turning will cause unreliable switching. Thats why it doesnt matter to bad in the AAs, but the 123s are unusable.

2. manufacturing tolerances: I measured body and head of my Ti replacement. The threads are simply not long enough on the body. It _cannot_ make contact without being overtightened to the point of me being unable to turn it off without using some towels to enhance grip.

It really is a QC issue that 4Sevens should correct to get better. I bought 3 Mini AAs and 1 123. The 123 would only work correctly with Teflon tape. The two Al AA lights work great, but the Ti AA did not have enough threads to make contact with the head. It went in the trash. I think there are lots of people that are disappointed with their Mini, but are quiet. I'm sure I'll buy more lights from 4Sevens, but I will wait for the reviews to come out first next time.

 

[JaguarDave-in-Oz]

Yeah, we do. People that are unhappy with a product are generally much more eager to express this than satisfied customers..

Then why is it that whenever there is a thread on here, or on the marketplace, that lays a complaint from one person about a 4sevens torch that there is a response from tenfold in number people saying that their 4sevens torch is great and has no issues?

"Generally" maybe, but not on here............

 

[amigafan2003]

but the Ti AA did not have enough threads to make contact with the head. It went in the trash.

next time you have a light that doesn't work properly (execially a $69 one) - send it to me instead of throwing it in the trash.

 

[Flyflash]

next time you have a light that doesn't work properly (execially a $69 one) - send it to me instead of throwing it in the trash.

Lol, that was pretty silly of me, but I was ticked off and flustered at the time. It felt great slam-dunking that light in the trash, but I should of sent it back. The things we do in the heat of the moment!

 

[matrixshaman]

I've found myself using the Mini's almost more than any other light I have (and after being here over 5 years I've got my share of lights). Got 3 and no problems with any except one of the regular ones is a bit green. I'm not really sure why I seem to grab the Mini a lot other than it's tiny and light weight and bright. I can't imagine not having at least one compared to other lights I've had in the past. Maybe some newer users can't appreciate how far things have come in the last few years.

 

[shark_za]

Here is another little side stat to ponder.
I don't have Mini's but I have all the iTP A1-2-3.

The A1 is the only one with occasional loose threads that seems to skip modes.

Obviously some issue with the size of the CR123 vs the others.
I see this same trend in the Quark Mini's.

 

[Hobbs]

. . . but the Ti AA did not have enough threads to make contact with the head. It went in the trash. . .

And I thought I had too much disposable income to spend on flashlights!

 

[uplite]

It appears that the itp, maratac, and quark twisties are all made in the same factories. They just have different branding, knurling, attachments, and UI.

So, no surprise that they would have the same issue with thread play. The tubes are probably turned on the same lathes, by the same workers.

But...the price of a Quark includes first-class support from 4sevens. If the threads have too much play, just send it back for refund or replacement. :thumbsup:

-Jeff

 

[4sevens]

It appears that the itp, maratac, and quark twisties are all made in the same factories. They just have different branding, knurling, attachments, and UI.

I can tell you with 100% certainty that they are NOT made in the same factory/workers. Your guess is wrong.

 

[the.Mtn.Man]

I think there are lots of people that are disappointed with their Mini, but are quiet.

Alterntiavely, there are a lot of people very happy with their Mini who are quiet.

Point being you really can't assume there is a large but silent majority out there that just happens to agree with you.

 

[Saint_Dogbert]

Then why is it that whenever there is a thread on here, or on the marketplace, that lays a complaint from one person about a 4sevens torch that there is a response from tenfold in number people saying that their 4sevens torch is great and has no issues?

"Generally" maybe, but not on here............

My point was that either way those unsatisfied make up an extreme minority of the customer base. It just seems like a larger group (to some) because they are more vocal.

 

[uplite]

I can tell you with 100% certainty that they are NOT made in the same factory/workers. Your guess is wrong.

Thanks. Just to clarify: Do you mean these different brands are not assembled on the same lines?

Or are you claiming that none of the parts are made in the same factories?

I remember reading somewhere that the itp and quark brands share at least the same electronics. Is that true?

-Jeff

 

[JaguarDave-in-Oz]

I can tell you with 100% certainty that they are NOT made in the same factory/workers. Your guess is wrong.

I'd say these days that "where" something is "made" is no longer something that has a strict meaning when it comes to place of manufacture. I'd have thought that the real question would be which, if any, components (other than the led we already know about) are sourced from the same place/manufacturer/supplier/design?

 

[csa]

To repeat myself again in this particular thread, I've been extremely happy with my mini123 and the other 5 I've owned and given away...

no thread play, no reliability issues, no greenness issues. Great little light for a fantastic price.

I'm a happy customer...

 

[pjandyho]

I have a neutral white AA, and cool white 123. Both of them works very well and smooth with no thread play. The MiNi 123 did exhibit slight greenish tint but otherwise is a fantastic light.

I had also bought a Ti 123 and Ti AA in neutral white when it was available. Both came in feeling gritty and possesses some slight thread play issues but is not severe. The Ti AA has some serious mode skipping issues so I sent it back to 4sevens for a refund. Kept the 123 and I am glad I kept it. It is a wonderful light for it's size. The threads feel smoother now after some breaking-in. Few days ago I had a shock when the Ti 123 refused to go into medium and high mode. Changed a few different batteries but the problem persisted. I did one final step of dripping some DeOxit onto the thread and contacts and it is now working perfectly again.

 

[Woods Walker]

I'd say these days that "where" something is "made" is no longer something that has a strict meaning when it comes to place of manufacture. I'd have thought that the real question would be which, if any, components (other than the led we already know about) are sourced from the same place/manufacturer/supplier/design?

Or just...Does iTP/Olight make the Mini and yea know what we mean. But play on words aside I like iTP/Olight and it doesn't matter anyways.

 

[Flying Turtle]

Another very happy customer here. I was a little bothered by the thread play, but a healthy glob of grease pretty much cured it, along with practice driving it.

Geoff

 

[andrewnewman]

I have a modest proposal that might explain some (certainly not all) of the polarization of users regarding the QMini. I have both a QMini 123 (aluminum) and a Preon I (Ti). Both have similar switching mechanisms (body presses against brass contact in head when tightened) and both suffer the same challenge.

A natural first step when buying a new light is to examine the o-ring lubrication and add some if deemed necessary. If the threads feel rough you might fully clean the threads and add a little more lubricant than is absolutely necessary (not always a good idea). Anyway the punch line is that with any twisty designed like the QMini or the Preon, there is a possibility of lubricant migrating up the threads and depositing on the switching mechanism. Sometimes there is some metal oxide mixed in (black stuff) making the specific insulating properties of the lubricant something of a crap shoot. Anyway, I have found that when either of these lights starts acting up (missing modes, contact bounces etc...) I can pretty much count on finding lubricant deposited on the top contact surface of the body tube and on the brass contact in the head. Take yours apart and press the body tube to the palm of your hand. Is there a black ring?

Cleaning and using the absolute minimum amount of lubricant helps enormously in my experience. YMMV.

 

[bansuri]

Take yours apart and press the body tube to the palm of your hand. Is there a black ring?

Cleaning and using the absolute minimum amount of lubricant helps enormously in my experience.

Great advice.
As a recent twist switch activation convert I've found that there is a trade-off for the loss of the failure point by having to be more meticulous (or at least less generous) with lubrication maintenance.
A Q-tip around the contact point at the edge of the board in the head and a quick clean of the end of the battery tube have fixed all contact issues with my twisties.

For the record, I had a regular tint MiNi AA that my little brother commandeered and a MiNi AA Neutral that I sold cuz I prefer the beam profile of the regular AA which I will be ordering again.

I can make my other twist lights act up by pushing on the head right before the activation point but some of the complaints sound like someone wasn't holding their tolerances during thread production. There will be some play but some of these sound way out of spec.
If any CPF'ers have calipers maybe you could start posting OD of the threads on the battery tube and ID of the head to see if there's a big difference. I'll certainly post mine when I get it.
These are great little lights IMO and if there's a problem it's important to let manufacturers know so they can take corrective action. Things can slip by. (Don't ask how I know!)

 

[Casebrius]

As long as the head is kept with some engagement of the o-ring, the fit is fairly tight. If the head is screwed out past where is engages the o-ring, yes the threads seem fairly loose. I usually have mine screwed in till it partially engages the o-ring so it really doesn't bother me.