Question: Battery Safety - 1x123 vs. 2x123 ?

[DarkShadows]

Does the use of one CR123 cell eliminate the explosive hazards of the CR123 that I have read about? It seems that the hazard always relates to combination of TWO batteries. I am somewhat reluctant to get a CR123 powered light because of this, but if I could eliminate the problem with the use of a single cell, then that opens up some possibilities. Or am I just being a scaredy cat?

 

[Brad01]

I, for one, am not worried.
Don't mix used and unused cells and don't mix brands.
Don't use cheap brands either.
Most of us carry a cell phone too... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gifBrad

 

[beezaur]

No, you are absolutely not being a scaredy-cat.

Those batteries can and have blown up flashlights. The recent case involving a Pelican had what were probably 2 Surefire batts. If you get a dud or damaged battery, you can have this problem. Think of what would happen if you were holding a light in your mouth and it went "blam."

I was in the same quandary after I read about it. I was getting ready to buy a new light, 2x123. I was wondering if I shouldn't go for something with a different type of battery.

But I think the best solution is to get the light you want AND get a multimeter. (Flashlight freaks like us should have one anyway.) It is super simple to check the short-circuit current before you put in the batteries.

The probabilities of this happening to you are exceedingly low, but if that doesn't make you feel any better (doesn't make me feel better) you can test and be pretty confident in your light's safety.

I went ahead and ordered an A2 (shipped yesterday). Just heed the safety warnings about storage, etc. Not everything was put there by an attorney.

I don't know for certain how much risk is involved with a single batt, but I do know it is greatly reduced. If you have a dud, there is nothing to energize it.

Scott

 

[HarryN]

I personally think your risk is lower with a 2x123 than a 1x123 based light. IMHO, the chance of you running your light so long that the cells go into voltage reversal is fairly low - we tend to like our lights running bright - so fresh cells come somewhat instinctively.

On the other hand, the chance of a 1x123 light running the 123 cell too hard (trying to pull close to 2 amps) is substantially higher, and that is when the cells really start to warm up.

 

[KevinL]

[ QUOTE ]
beezaur said:
But I think the best solution is to get the light you want AND get a multimeter. (Flashlight freaks like us should have one anyway.) It is super simple to check the short-circuit current before you put in the batteries.


[/ QUOTE ]

I think this is the best possible advice. I simply cannot live without a proper DMM now, cells going into and coming out of lights always get the DMM check. It is so much better to know what you can and cannot get away with.

A useable DMM is $10, and perhaps not even that much. Get one. Nicer DMMs are a little pricier. I have a Meterman 34XR... good stuff!