Sorry i should have explained this a little better.
That picture was just to show how they were being run, its not how they will be used in production. The 4 led's will be placed around a rectangular piece of metal, with the 700ma on the sides, and the 350's on the top and bottom. I need 4 led's to cover the 4 sides of the rectangle and i need the sides to be brighter.
Hopefully that should make a little more sense. sorry i didnt explain that in the beginning, it all made sense in my head
it makes perfect sence to me if you want some sort of oblong output from a Quad cubed up. If you don't want purposfully offset output quantites, then it doesnt make sence.
I would do it in a second, but then again I will do anything Once.
the 16x9 light
might be a great way for a dome light, where you need less output on a couple of the sources, and more on the others.
you need 2V more for the buck puck, so your running alternator 14.4v leaves you with 12.4v (on modern new cars).
3x ~3.8v leds = ~11.4v buck drops about 1v.
When car alternator stops voltage drops to 13v then 12v then when battery is low 11v , so at about 12V the output will start dropping bad.
will the car be running during any intended use? at 11V or before the battery is dead, the leds will be barely squeaking out light, this should keep the battery from going dead as quick from the light being left on.
if its not on a car, then you will need more voltage to start out, than say a 12V gell cell or 10xnimhy,
for a 14.4V li-ion, it should cool out just right, or 13-14ni-mhy, ending at 1V per on the low end
the 2 Odd parellel items would be running "lower" so they would be less suceptable to offset problems than if they are full driven, so if they were slightly out of wack, they still would never overdrive.
experience YMMV
