R.O.P. Roar of the Pelican mini-FAQ II

[mrartillery]

Re: rop mod problem

As Scattergun said, your problem is resistance, you need to either go with rechargeable D's or get yourself a new host such as a 2 D and a quality cell holder such as the ones FM sells, then you will have yourself a nice light.

 

[fivemega]

I have the same problem,i use eneloops and the output seems not brighter then xenon 6d bulb!I think the 6D body have great resistance!

Body resistance is something I never worry about.
If you get poor performance in 2D M*g with 6 Eneloops and Pelican 3854 HO bulb, find the problem in:
1- weak or bad batteries.
2- Too much resistance in battery holder.
3- Too much switch resistance. (Fix it.)
4- Too much tail spring resistance. (fix it.)

 

[bigchelis]

Re: rop mod problem

While testing WA1185's and ROP's I discovered the OTF lumens are much much higher when using IMR 26500/IMR 18650/ IMR 26650 vs. 6AA or 9AA adaptors for D size mags.

If you already have a 2C Mag and some 18650's (preferably IMR) just swap the parts over and prepare to be amazed.

 

[mrartillery]

As FM said those are all great fixes, but his problem is (as i read in his other thread) is that he is using 6 of these, which will create a lot of resistance which is probably why he is having poor performance.

 

[mrartillery]

Re: rop mod problem

While testing WA1185's and ROP's I discovered the OTF lumens are much much higher when using IMR 26500/IMR 18650/ IMR 26650 vs. 6AA or 9AA adaptors for D size mags.

This is true, you will notice a difference when using the li-ons vs. the AA's, I have both setups in the 1185, either is a great call. Although the 9 aa version is my most used light, good runtime and great output. For someone just starting out however i would recommend them to use aa's just for the simple fact that they are easier to handle/charge, li-ons are great but you may want to get a little knowledge of them before you take the plunge.

 

[KiwiMark]

I think the 6D body have great resistance!

The 6D body is a big chunk of Aluminium - the resistance of that is VERY LITTLE.

My 6D is running a 3854-H bulb and is WAY brighter than the Xenon 6D bulb. I am running some 4,000mAh NiCd D cells that are over a decade old - the performance is good when the batteries are freshly charged, but not so good after a while - I really should get some new batteries.

 

[valimarele]

My eneloops are fresh,i think the adaptors are build in a poor quality.I will try to reduce the rezistance in tailcap spring and in the switch.

 

[lumen aeternum]

The link to the explanation of WHAT this "ROP mod" is, leads to a blank(dead) page.

So somebody edit Post #1.

Or is the whole topic now simply out of date? If so, editing post #1 to that effect would be useful.

 

[Kestrel]

The link to the explanation of WHAT this "ROP mod" is, leads to a blank(dead) page.

So somebody edit Post #1.

Or is the whole topic now simply out of date? If so, editing post #1 to that effect would be useful.

FYI, there is more info on this topic in the following thread:
Redux: Mag 2C running 3x CR123A

 

[StorminMatt]

One thing about the ROP that has always surprised me is the relative silence (especially in the various how-to's) of using a 6D body. Almost everything seems to focus on using smaller bodies (especially 2D) and trying to power it with AA or lithium batteries. The possibility of going 6D instead is seldom even mentioned. And while I can certainly understand the desire to build a small light with that kind of output, the fact is that a 6D (as large as it is) actually makes for a MUCH more practical light. When it comes to batteries, you simply get six NiMH D cells, and be done with it. No worries about whether the batteries can actually supply 4A without excessive voltage drop or kicking the bucket, because you know they can produce much more without breaking a sweat. Not to mention that, even with an 8000mAH LSD D battery, you can probably get close to two hours of runtime using the high bulb. And with the low bulb (which is still quite a bit brighter than most stock lights out there, even many costing MUCH more), you get around FOUR hours of runtime. Not bad. Yes, it's big and heavy. But the way I see it, the fact that it's NOT going to go dead on you in a half hour (or less) and that the high current capabilities of a D battery mean it will REALLY put out both make up for the size and weight.

Another good option would be a 6C. You still get MUCH better current delivery without voltage drop from a C battery compared to a AA. And capacity is about twice a AA, which means you still get significantly more runtime. Unfortunately, the 6C isn't made anymore. But it would probably be possible to stuff 6 C batteries into a 5D or maybe even a 4D.

Yet another option might be half D batteries. These are slightly harder to find, require a spacer for charging in most chargers, but have about the capacity of a C battery. With half D batteries, it might be possible to stuff six into a 4D or maybe even a 3D. If it's possible, a 3D ROP using six half D batteries might be the best compromise between (relatively) small size, current capability, and runtime.

 

[vicv]

I like the idea of 6 1/2 d's in a 3d if they are actually 1/2 the length. And they should be ok to charge in a aa charger with spacers. I'm wondering though for those of you running a 2d with 6aa in series with holders. What about getting cheapbatterypacks to make a 2x3 tri pack of elite2000(if they get more in stock). No added resistance of adaptors or the trouble of loose cells and easily charged with a pack or hobby charger. If they can make it 2d sized it would be a great solution especially being that the quality adaptors no longer seem to be available

 

[fivemega]

1/2D cells are about 36mm long while full size Ds are about 60mm long.
So only 5 of them will fit in 3D m*g
There were (and still are) many option for rechargeable M*g C and D
Here are small part of the very old threads which are closed but you will get some ideas from:

Rechargeable 6AA to 2D

Rechargeable 4AA to 1D

Rechargeable 3x17670 to 1.25D

Rechargeable 2P/2S 18650 to 2.5D

Rechargeable 2x18650 in 2.5C

Rechargeable Chrome/red 2.5C

BTW, get away from conventional NiCad and NiMH cells and use only low self discharge NiMH and protected Li-Cobalt batteries.

 

[FILIPPO]

I like the idea of 6 1/2 d's in a 3d if they are actually 1/2 the length. And they should be ok to charge in a aa charger with spacers. I'm wondering though for those of you running a 2d with 6aa in series with holders. What about getting cheapbatterypacks to make a 2x3 tri pack of elite2000(if they get more in stock). No added resistance of adaptors or the trouble of loose cells and easily charged with a pack or hobby charger. If they can make it 2d sized it would be a great solution especially being that the quality adaptors no longer seem to be available

as fivemega wrote 6 x 1/2 D won't fit in a mag 3D ... Anyway you can use an extender ad get near the 4D lenght.. I think this is the best way to have a good runtime without boring the mag tube that can be difficoult..

Another option are li-ion cells... For example 2 x 32500s in a mag 2D .. Very good runtime too but be carefull with this batteries!! Make sure you know what you're doing!

 

[Minimoog]

I have just built my first R.O.P.! Now, since about a decade has passed and things have become unavailable, this is what I did - how did I do? Any further changes I could make? All these items were as available in Oct 2016.

Mag 2C host
2 x Efest 'purple' IMR 3000mAh 26500 cells
R.O.P High bulb
Kaidomain MOP cammed metal reflector
Kaidomain coated glass lens

I fitted the metal reflector and glass lens, copper braided the tail cap spring, bulb turret spring and the switch internal spring (got the whole circuit down to 0.3 Ohm). Lashings of De-Oxit and brass cleaning stick to remove contact tarnish. I then soldered a thin brass washer to the positive of both batteries using a 100 Watt soldering iron to allow them to make contact (they are flat top). I needed to peel off the security sticker to allow the cells to fit the tube.

On powering up I got a powerful white light that really impressed. I now have a Mag C bulb tower on order to get the heat from the bulb holder to the body to prevent melting.

So, does this sound a decent setup? Anything else I could do? What about sanding the bulb - worth doing?

I am very pleased with my light, but if I can improve it further I will.

 

[bykfixer]

Nothing to contribute advice wise as I bought a vintage one pre-built.

But can say HOLY MACKERAL those thing are great.
Not knowing just how freely all those extra helpers allow it to suck the juice from batteries... I started out using CR123's until the rechargeables arrived.

They got hot quickly... scary hot scary quickly.
Needless to say I put it away until some high output batteries arrived.


The Delrin sleeve keeps these nice n snug.