r123 x2 with a KL1

[vhyper007]

Ladies and gentlemen of CPF

Would I be safe with 2xr123 in a fb2 or e2?
Are you real sure or just pretty sure?

Am having difficulty with the switch on the fb2 with the KL1.
To operate correctly the tail has to be unscrewed almost to the point of falling off the light. Does anyone have any ideas to solve this?

I have tried SF, Duracell, Sanyo batts but problem persists.

Thanks for your help,
vhyper007

 

[pokkuhlag]

Yes it is safe, if you use protected R123. Someone tested it on posted on his website. Can't remember the member's name though. Please correct me if I'm wrong. I'm sure, I just don't want to dig in CPF for the post. I hope he's gonna reply soon with link. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif.

 

[voodoogreg]

This what I do with two FB-1's i have setup with KL-1's.
Can't think it won't work on a FB-2:

First thing's first.. make sure the tailcap is in the "on" postion. The two tab's on the inside of the switch can be bent out CAREFULLY to extend the distance to bottom contact. think baby step's, don't just straighten them out. do a little, check, repeat, till your there.

Do this first, then put the head on snugly.So put it togather except the tailcap.
Before screwing the cap, pinch the flat "o"-ring and kinda work it down a wee bit, like one or two thread's worth
Not real noticable to the eye, but will help a good deal. put a touch of silicone lube on the ring and threads.

Replace the cap, since you left the light on, it will come on when you got contact, and then you can judge how much more fine tuning you want.
ON mine one is/was pretty loose, one was perfect.
and I have grown to like this adjustablity. In the case of using Li ion's and primary's, i have mine so a bit of a turn one way or the other, light's the light but is not loose.

I have no use for SF 1x123 bodies anymore. VDG

 

[KevinL]

I'm just one of a few who has tested the 2 x R123 combination with a third and fourth generation KL1, it is safe. Both their converters will handle up to 9V. The 4G KL1 is driven harder for more light and less runtime as the numbers show.

On JSB's protected 123s:

Surefire KL1-Lux1-3rdGen with E1e Executive (one cell): 65 minutes
Surefire KL1-Lux1-3rdGen with E2e/L4 Executive (2 cells): 140 minutes
Surefire KL1-Lux3-4thGen with E1e Executive (one cell): 44 minutes
Surefire KL1-Lux3-4thGen with E2e/L4 Executive (2 cells): 105 minutes

Never tried the FB2, though.

 

[vhyper007]

thanks, pokkuhlag.
What diff does it make whether the cells are protected or unprotected? How can you tell one from the other?

I got mine from Kevin at Battery Station.

Again, thanks berry berry much.

regards,
vhyper

 

[vhyper007]

hi VDG,
good thing you added the "G" to the end.

Thanks for your suggestion. Will give it a try and repost with results.

Your help is appreciated.
vhyper

 

[wquiles]

KevinL,

Thanks for the runtime data - very useful /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Will

 

[vhyper007]

KevinL,
Thanks for your help. What diff in using protected or unprotected cells?
If you use unprotected cells wouldnt you just change batts immediately as soon as you saw any dimming of the light?

Wouldnt this work?

Anyway, got my batts from Kevin at Batt Station. Would they be protected or un...?

Thanks for your help
vhyper007

 

[vhyper007]

VDG,
you say: "I have no use for SF 1x123 bodies anymore. VDG"

I read this to mean you much prefer the VG to the SF. Yes?

I like the looks of the fb's very much. I was just worried about the functionality. I believe that will be solved.

I appreciate yours and all the help from the CPF community. It is a good bunch of guys/gals.

vhyper007

 

[KevinL]

I've used protected and unprotected cells with the KL1, and I highly, HIGHLY recommend protected cells. The KL1 is an extremely efficient battery eater and it destroyed my unprotected cells by deep-discharging them. The point where the light dims enough for you to notice is too late - one cell will have been pulled below the 2.5V danger mark and is effectively un-recoverable. I have tried recharging deep-discharged cells and succeeded in doing catastrophic damage to the charger in the process /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/oops.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/stupid.gif

I have not used Batterystation's cells, but any cell with a low-voltage cutout is good. The disadvantage is that cells with the LVC tend to shut off abruptly, literally leaving you in the dark. The runtime tests were very precise because of this - I always knew the exact instant where the light shut off so I could stop the timer /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

 

[Stanley]

I agree with KevinL. I use unprotected R123s in my KL1/E2e combo as my EDC. I have to check every few days or so (depending on usage) on the remaining juice in my batts to stop it from over discharging itself.

Another thing I find these unprotected cells is that the battery recovery rate can be quite drastic. I ran my McLux PR DB700 on my 2xR123s, and not long after that it dimmed. So I took out the batts and measured them, one of it was down to 1.8V!!! I was pissed off then cos I thought it was wrecked. Then i left it aside for a while, and when I got back to it about 10 mins later to measure the cell again, it went back up to about 2.8 or so. Anyway I tried to recharge it (very carefully) and it still works, no problems (Phew...).

Unprotected R123s are cheaper and guilt free to run and all, but these are just some of the troubles you have to go thru, so you decide if its worth it for you or not... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif Protected is always good...

 

[TrueBlue]

[ QUOTE ]
vhyper007 said:
...Am having difficulty with the switch on the fb2 with the KL1.
To operate correctly the tail has to be unscrewed almost to the point of falling off the light. Does anyone have any ideas to solve this?

[/ QUOTE ]

Let's see if I can help you with your second problem with the FB2 switch. I'll just do a quick cut and paste from another thread I posted on and let you read how I fixed the problem with two of my FB lights.

[ QUOTE ]
TrueBlue said:
OK, I know this is an old thread and everyone has perfectly working VG switches in their lights but if you wanted to know how I got rid of the battery pushing the switch contact and preventing the light from turning on then read on.

I've fixed two flickering VG switches by taking the tail cap apart and sandwiching aluminum foil to the inside ring of the switch between the switch and the rubber switch cover. It is a 10 minute fix and the VG switches now work reliably.

When the tail cap is tightened down the battery pushes the switch board away from the negative connection around the rim of the retaining ring. In my simple mod as the VG tail cap is tightened against the battery, the aluminum foil sandwich acts as a backup connection grounding to the wall of the VG tail cap. Luckily there a big negative electrical connection on both sides of the switch board so adding aluminum foil to the back side of the board will still maintain a negative connection.

Make sure the foil is tightly pushed against the switch board or it may short on the little holes on the sides of the switch.

No compression rings were thrown away and no O-rings were added. The light works and looks like the original light. But the switch works better than the original switch.

The fix is easier done than said.

[/ QUOTE ]

 

[voodoogreg]

[ QUOTE ]
vhyper007 said:
hi VDG,
good thing you added the "G" to the end.

Thanks for your suggestion. Will give it a try and repost with results.

Your help is appreciated.
vhyper

[/ QUOTE ]

I am working musician i have had just the first two letter's a couple of times. Yep the third letter is much more comfortable /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif VDG

 

[greenlight]

ew.