Ra Clicky (HDS Systems EDC) - Part 10

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pmek5 said:
I have an EDC-120-E that I received this mid April (2010). I noticed today that I have surface cracking (minor - not deep) on the rubber boot flush tail cap switch cover. Is this normal? This flashlight is my truck out of the sun, in a dark soft spot behind my bench cup / storage center divider. I live where it gets into the high 90's, and or 100's all summer, but again no direct sunlight. Just curious.
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I had the same problem with my old HDS EDC U60 XR a while ago: Rather deep cracks in both the CR123 and the 18650 battery compartment rubber boot flush tail cap switch cover. No chemicals, no UV, no hard use .. nothing out of the ordinary really. I emailed Henry and he sent me two new battery tubes right away. One of those is still like new, the other has developed deep cracks again. I will mail Henry about this soon and you should probably do the same. I'm sure he will take good care of us. 🙂

EDIT: picture added. Does yours look like this, too? I really wonder what's causing this, none of my other flashlights show any problems with the rubber covers.

HDS_rubber.jpg
 
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pmek5 said:
Looking for some feedback -

I have an EDC-120-E that I received this mid April (2010). I noticed today that I have surface cracking (minor - not deep) on the rubber boot flush tail cap switch cover. Is this normal? This flashlight is my truck out of the sun, in a dark soft spot behind my bench cup / storage center divider. I live where it gets into the high 90's, and or 100's all summer, but again no direct sunlight. Just curious.

Also wondering if Nyogel 760G would help, and hurt it since i use it on my threads, and o-rings.

thanks,
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It happend to my tailcap as well. As I had the spring secured button cover i bought a new tailcap where the cover is now changeable
 
Connor said:
EDIT: picture added. Does yours look like this, too?
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Nope - not that bad. Mine just looks like alot of very small surface cracks, and or checking (very thin layer) as best as I can describe it. It just caught me off guard since I have only had it 4-5 months. This stiil in no way changes my opion of this great flashlight!
 
pmek5 said:
Nope - not that bad. Mine just looks like alot of very small surface cracks, and or checking (very thin layer) as best as I can describe it. It just caught me off guard since I have only had it 4-5 months. This stiil in no way changes my opion of this great flashlight!
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Unfortunately it's only a matter of time. Mine started with barely noticeable hairline cracks, too (in all three cases). :-(
 
Regarding cracked switch boots. Mine look ok, but I have oily skin/fingers. Lots of moisture and oil in my skin, and get few wrinkles on my face for my years.

Bill
 
nbp said:
CRAAAAAAAAP!!!!!

I think I just killed my Ti Ra Clicky 10017. 🙁

I Received my wvaltakis clip today and wanted to reprogram it before putting the clip on. As directed I turned the light on, then unscrewed the battery compartment and put the battery tube and head back together. Rather than the dim reset indicator I got a couple flashes and nothing. The light wouldn't turn on. Opened it back up and took the battery out and it was super hot. Ok, maybe there was a problem with the battery. It was in there from the previous owner, maybe it just didn't have the juice to run the light anymore, I don't know. Waited over a minute and put in a fresh BS primary. Put light together, I think it flashed, and then nothing. Opened it up and again the battery came out screaming hot. At this point I know something is definitely wrong.

I will have to call Henry most likely. Crap. What happened to my light?
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Bucky said:
Did you send it in for an emitter upgrade? New switch? Both?
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I sent it in so Henry can make it turn on again. Apparently there is a short in the head. :mecry:

But I wouldn't be angry if he were to upgrade the emitter while he's in there. :naughty:

I'll be your beta tester on the 240 if you like Henry. :grin2:
 
Hi everyone,
I just got my new 140Tactical RA :twothumbs
Sorry for breaking the line on the new 240 discussion but I have an RA modification question and I thought it would be appropriate here:
Did anyone try to insert tritium tubes into the clip screw holes?
I'm thinking of getting two red ones and sticking them there, giving my RA an Evil red-eye look :devil:

What do you guys think?
 
abarth_1200 said:
That method wrecks the rubber button.

As you press the button and screw it down you rub the inside of the button onto the sharp square edges of the protruding switch and it starts wearing it away, I have taken a file to my microswitch to smooth the edges out.
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Good tip. I also took a file to the switch edges and lightly at the corners. There's seemingly enough metal to buckle it down, not to mention the epoxy.

As an additional mod, I believe you can place electrical tape over the white plunger of the switch. It muffles the audible click of the button, here*.
(What I did was use a hole punch on two layers of electrical tape on thin blister packaging plastic, then use an x-acto knife to lift one layer with adhesive intact; this yields a nice circle of tape that fits on top of the switch)

*It's hard to say whether that would work on an unmodified Clicky, because I just got my first Clicky, and I already started experimenting. Guys, what is wrong with me. Here is how not to make it more tailstandable: It's not worth slicing 0.5mm off the white button plunger, as afterwards the button requires more pressure to click. 😳
hdsedc_button_circumcision.jpg

This was a non-methodical test to see if doing this would make the button cover absolutely flush with the cap. The answer is "Nope."
I undid this mod by cutting a tiny circle from blister packaging and then affixing it with the electrical tape, above.
 
ever4ever said:
I'm thinking of getting two red ones and sticking them there, giving my RA an Evil red-eye look :devil:
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It should work, but it will be very dim because you are looking at the side of the tritium cylinder - not too much light coming out of there. If you wanna do this I would use green (brightest) or perhaps yellow.
 
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dyril, great pic re cutting down switch button, but too bad you have not been around CPF long enough to know that it has always been about air pressure keeping the boot too high to tailstand. Work with the air pressure, reducing it and you too can have a tail standing Ra.

Bill
 
nbp said:
I sent it in so Henry can make it turn on again. Apparently there is a short in the head. :mecry:

But I wouldn't be angry if he were to upgrade the emitter while he's in there. :naughty:

I'll be your beta tester on the 240 if you like Henry. :grin2:
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Right, forgot about what happened to your Ti Clicky.

While it's there though, you may want to upgrade to the new switch which I believe Henry said can be done with the Ti Clickies for a cost.
 
I just got my Clicky back from TeknoCowboy. He modded it with a neutral warm xpg. I'm loving it!

I can't wait till Henry makes this a production option.
 
Bucky said:
Right, forgot about what happened to your Ti Clicky.

While it's there though, you may want to upgrade to the new switch which I believe Henry said can be done with the Ti Clickies for a cost.
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Maybe I will send him another email and see what he recommends. I would do it if there is a significant change in reliability or ease of use. If it an unnoticeable change I guess I don't mind the old. I thought I saw the new switches were like $50. Yikes!
 
Re Tailstanding, my 120 executive tail stands perfectly, no need to depress the button while screwing on the battery tube. There is plenty on clearance on the button.
Norm
 
The speculation about newer emitters and capabilities is interesting, I have been eyeing a high CRI since I got my 170 EDC T. I've decided to wait until a higher output model is available. I once compared my 170 to a 3 cell D mag that I have and preferred the 170 in every way but the actual color of the beam. I really am looking forward to a high CRI to have all the those features of a HDS plus the beam. I'm hoping the next model of high CRI jumps in efficiency even greater then the 120lm model I understand was once offered. I guess we'll see. I wonder how long it will be before we see a 200/240lm high CRI.
 
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