Ra Clicky (HDS Systems EDC) - Part 10

[Connor]

That has to be a joke. Why would you possibly need networking and multiple processors in a flashlight?

I don't think of Henry as the type of guy who makes jokes about his flashlights. ;-)
When I read the description, my immediate thoughts were communication of the LED electronics with the switch electronics by ultra-short distance wireless radio (instead of wire connections) and programmability of the lights software via WLAN/Bluetooth.

A few years ago this would have been SciFi or at least not economically feasible, but these days you can buy programmable micro-controllers with all sorts of additional features (like Bluetooth) thrown in 'for free'.

So .. whatever you're planning, Henry .. hurry up, we're waiting. No pressure. :buddies:

PS: Another thing I have been waiting for for quite a while is a light with some sort of miniature LC-Display next to the switch to show you the exact mode you're in.

 

[abarth_1200]

Thanks for the runtime test.

I usually find that when running my RA Clickys on a RCR123 its pretty much exhuasted on the first blink, after the first step down I only get another 15 minutes until its flashing away at me. Primary cells are another story, as soon as it blink I usually drop it to another lower level and get another few hours out of the same cell that has already run over 1 hour on high.

 

[iacchus]

Hi guys,

Just thought you guys might want to know this. Last night I ran a protected AW 17670 in the 100 high CRI and did a layman version of the runtime test. Had the light switched on burst for 10 seconds and then revert to high until it blinks to tell me that the battery is getting low.

The whole duration until the first blink took 2 hrs 24 mins 53 secs on stopwatch of my iPhone. I cut the test the moment it blinks as I usually change out the battery when it blinks. I know some of you might want to completely run the battery down but I don't see the point in doing that.

Throughout the test duration the light isn't even hot at all. It just felt a bit warmish to the touch but nothing near uncomfortable. I guess the additional length in the 17670 tube does help to transfer the heat away from the bezel even better.

Hope this helps. And please don't start me on the test for the moon mode.

Regards,
Andy

That is impressive. I have got to get one of those 17670 tubes for my 170 (or maybe I should just get the Hi CRI with one...).
Thanks for the test. I had been wondering about the heat dissipation in one.

 

[P_A_S_1]

I don't think of Henry as the type of guy who makes jokes about his flashlights. ;-)
When I read the description, my immediate thoughts were communication of the LED electronics with the switch electronics by ultra-short distance wireless radio (instead of wire connections) and programmability of the lights software via WLAN/Bluetooth.

A few years ago this would have been SciFi or at least not economically feasible, but these days you can buy programmable micro-controllers with all sorts of additional features (like Bluetooth) thrown in 'for free'.

So .. whatever you're planning, Henry .. hurry up, we're waiting. No pressure. :buddies:

PS: Another thing I have been waiting for for quite a while is a light with some sort of miniature LC-Display next to the switch to show you the exact mode you're in.

That would be pretty cool actually, the ability to Blue Tooth a light to your computer. It would give you the ability, with software of course, to link up the light and burn a fresh battery all night for runtimes without actually having to watch it. Just have to have a program that would monitor and record all the runtimes at all the steps on the way down to setting #1.

 

[John_Galt]

That would be neat... But I hope this speculative "bluetooth" or "short-range-radio" device has a way to turn it on and off.

My guess would be that it has to be activated in a specific way, such as a factory reset, plus a triple click-press-hold, or something. It would automatically disable when programming was exited.

IF, the next generation of Ra's do have some sort of networking, I hope they still retain the ability to manually program the light, as it is done currently, so that we don't have to be reliant upon computer access to make changes "in-the-field" as it were.

 

[iacchus]

I'm thinking the networked, multi-processor light is something for a military application. It might not even be in classic Ra form.

 

[cave dave]

Hi guys,

Just thought you guys might want to know this. Last night I ran a protected AW 17670 in the 100 high CRI and did a layman version of the runtime test. Had the light switched on burst for 10 seconds and then revert to high until it blinks to tell me that the battery is getting low.

The whole duration until the first blink took 2 hrs 24 mins 53 secs on stopwatch of my iPhone. ...
Regards,
Andy

Since each Ra light is custom calibrated run times will vary considerably depending on efficiency of each individual LED and therefore the current needed to get to 70lm (in this case). AKA your millage will vary.

pjandyho, do you know the runtime on a AW RCR123? We can then apply a conversion factor to see how much more capacity a 17670 actually delivers.

 

[nbp]

<plug mode on>

Just a reminder to all Ra fans to stop in at The Ra/HDS Collection Thread and post your Ra collections! Whether you have a dozen, or even just one light, put up a picture and tell us about it; it's great to see the combos people come up with, along with aftermarket parts and clips and other such goodies. It's great fun, check it out.

<plug mode off>

 

[hotlight]

Henry, great job!



I ordered the 2.89mm thick lens with LDF. I may just stay with the F04 and don't even think about suggesting scotch tape on this beautiful light.

the 2.89mm with LDF installed from flashlightlens will work, thats what I ordered and it works fine.(no gaps, did "waterproof test"-passed).

 

[xr4fun]

the 2.89mm with LDF installed from flashlightlens will work, thats what I ordered and it works fine.(no gaps, did "waterproof test"-passed).

It works! Thanks for letting me know yours worked. It made me go back and try for the 10th time and I realized I'm stupid. I had taken one of the o-rings off of the reflector and got it mixed up with one of the lens o-rings. Since I had the wrong o-ring in the lens is was too thick. Crisis averted. Thanks again.

 

[derfyled]

Hi guys,

Just thought you guys might want to know this. Last night I ran a protected AW 17670 in the 100 high CRI and did a layman version of the runtime test. Had the light switched on burst for 10 seconds and then revert to high until it blinks to tell me that the battery is getting low.

The whole duration until the first blink took 2 hrs 24 mins 53 secs on stopwatch of my iPhone. I cut the test the moment it blinks as I usually change out the battery when it blinks. I know some of you might want to completely run the battery down but I don't see the point in doing that.

Throughout the test duration the light isn't even hot at all. It just felt a bit warmish to the touch but nothing near uncomfortable. I guess the additional length in the 17670 tube does help to transfer the heat away from the bezel even better.

Hope this helps. And please don't start me on the test for the moon mode.

Regards,
Andy

Thanks for that test Andy. ! Also, what a nice in-hand feeling with that tube...

 

[SCblur]

I'm late the the party, having just purchased a clicky 170 exec, and I love it. My only regret is not having bought it sooner. My only little issue is I wish I could get it to tailstand. It will almost work, but the switch protrudes just enough to cause problems. Does anybody know of a way to modify the switch boot to make this possible.

My apologies if this has been discussed before, I have browsed the HDS threads (Lord knows there are lots) but haven't seen any mention of this, and my search function doesn't work on CPF.

Thanks

 

[hotlight]

HDS Systems,

I have the flush tail cap on my high cri.

can I simply add the "switch cap with raised button"$19? (to make it a "tactical" model)
or do I need the tactical body/switch?

thanks

 

[Votekinky06]

You can just buy the tailcap.

 

[Brian1911]

So what are the chances of there being a new Clicky with a higher lumen rated LED? Lost of other companies are putting out 250+ lumen lights of this size so what is the hold up?

I am itching to buy another light but have settled on staying with HDS/Ra as opposed to the custom crowd. I dont want to buy another now and be disappointed when a new HDS/Ra comes out.

 

[the.Mtn.Man]

My only regret is not having bought it sooner. My only little issue is I wish I could get it to tailstand. It will almost work, but the switch protrudes just enough to cause problems. Does anybody know of a way to modify the switch boot to make this possible.

Well, you could always poke a small hole in it to keep it from trapping air, but I wouldn't recommend it.

The "official" method is to remove the tail cap (it just unscrews) then press the rubber boot in as you screw it back on. You won't be able to get it perfectly flush, but it'll sit a lot lower than it otherwise would. Mine tail stands with just a bit of wobble.

 

[abarth_1200]

That method wrecks the rubber button.

As you press the button and screw it down you rub the inside of the button onto the sharp square edges of the protruding switch and it starts wearing it away, I have taken a file to my microswitch to smooth the edges out.

 

[Brian1911]

I am not sure if my 170T is freaking out. Its new and still on the original battery so i am not sure if what i am noticing is a weak battery symptom. When i turn to strobe it will cut out then come back on to high but kick the strobe off. Some times strobe will get stuck on with no button being pressed and it has done this when battery is fresh. This wont happen every time so i dont understand whats wrong. In the manual i dont see any way you can keep strobe on with out holding the button in and it seems to happen here and there and i cant duplicate it.

I tried to walk around with it on high but battery is still going so i am thinking some thing is wrong. The things i am seeing happen randomnly and a low battery is programed to blink and step down which would h

Update:
Figured out the strobe lock function. From on click 3 times quickly the hold down and release. Strobe will stay on from there with out button being pressed.
Also i think i was letting pressure off the switch and that was why it was cutting on and off. It really takes some thumb pressure to positively activate the switch.

Perhaps it was ok and i need to do some thumb excercises.

 

[abarth_1200]

The flush button doesnt need as much pressure to press, the tactical is a tactical press, which needs a positive press to avoid accidental activation in an unwanted situation.

As for your issue, you might need to do a reset, it might be thinking that the battery is too exhausted to keep it in high mode, do a reset by taking the battery out for 60 seconds.

Or it could be that you havent quite learned the button press sequences, to get it into strobe (which is the high mode for the 170T) from on do a click and press and hold, triple clicking will put you into the lowset level and double clicking into the intermediate levels.

 

[Brian1911]

The flush button doesnt need as much pressure to press, the tactical is a tactical press, which needs a positive press to avoid accidental activation in an unwanted situation.

As for your issue, you might need to do a reset, it might be thinking that the battery is too exhausted to keep it in high mode, do a reset by taking the battery out for 60 seconds.

Or it could be that you havent quite learned the button press sequences, to get it into strobe (which is the high mode for the 170T) from on do a click and press and hold, triple clicking will put you into the lowset level and double clicking into the intermediate levels.

Ahh there is more to tactical then the name, makes sense. That button sure needs a firm pressure to keep it in momentary and I think that was my issue. My thumb pressure let off just a bit and it was enough to make the light go out. For a quick click to keep it on is no big deal though. I am happy with this then because I dont want it coming on in my pocket. I can press the button into my thigh and its not enough to click it so that is good for me.

For strobe there is a hidden function I think. From on a double or triple click then hold puts you in strobe but locked on so you dont have to to hold it down. I had done it a bunch of times on accident but I finally got it figured out to repeat over and over so I know it works.

Man I love this thing. The more I learn about it just reveals how much thought and RD went into its creation.

Do you guys think a brighter more powerful LED is in the works? I know they are out there so why hasnt Henry used one yet?