RA clicky high cri (93) beam shots

Theatre Booth Guy

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This January I purchased a Ra Hi CRI Exec that is rated at 100 lumens. I note that the OP/s Exec Clicky is 120 lumens. Interesting. Is he wrong re lumen output of his light, or has Henry changed the specs of the Hi CRI? I just checked the Ra website and it shows the Hi CRI at 100 lumens max.

Bill

The first batch was 120 max lumens. Newer batches have switched to the 100 lumen max. IIRC, Henry said that he had difficulties finding enough high cri led's that would have the higher output and run for 1 hour on max. and thus slightly lowered the maximum output to get the required run time.
 

kaichu dento

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The first batch was 120 max lumens. Newer batches have switched to the 100 lumen max. IIRC, Henry said that he had difficulties finding enough high cri led's that would have the higher output and run for 1 hour on max. and thus slightly lowered the maximum output to get the required run time.
I wonder if the high CRI I got was one of the 120's, because it did not give up any ground in comparisons with my cool tinted Twisty 100 and 120. I really expected less light when I bought it since I knew that there were losses incurred with any warmer tint as a rule.
 

run4jc

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Just received my first (ever) Ra Clicky yesterday. Wow. My collection included a Novatac once upon a time, and it was nice, but my collecting turned to McGizmos and there were a number of sell offs required to fund the 'Gizmos, including the Novatac.

So now with a collection of 8 McGizmos and a few other high end goodies, I figured it was time to see what all the fuss was about with these Ra lights.

Wow.

I know this is a beam shot thread, and it is my goal to add to it, but for now I just want to add my endorsement of this amazing light. I configured mine:

100 lumen high cri
crenelated titanium black bezel
Sapphire with anti-reflective coatings
Black Pocket clip (I hate clips - arewethereyetdad is sending filler screws)
flush button
executive operation.

Ordered it on a Tuesday - Henry responded saying I'd have it within 2 weeks - it showed up on Friday. Great service!!

I envisioned this as being my 'go to' light when I needed a high CRI beam and more throw than my Sundrop XR-U can provide. It'll fill that bill and more! I really like the 4 pre-programmed levels, although it'll be fun experimenting with other programming...I'd really like for it to come on in the lowest possible setting.

Hoping to do some beamshots and photos in the next few days. I'm so impressed with this tank of a light, I may order another one with the tactical operation, raised button and the 170 lumen emitter. It's a keeper. Thanks for all who contributed to this thread and helped with my decision to buy this great light.

:twothumbs lovecpf
 

Kgp

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Glad you finally got one! I am a big mcgizmo fan too, but I am more a user than a collecter. I would be so upset if I dropped or wose, lost a mcgizmo light. They are worth every penney, but not the light for me. RA clicky's have the nice beam and tint many lights dont. They have replaceable parts, the best warranty, and there not too expensive. I agree a great light. The GT model is awsome too.
 

fnj

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The high CRI is much too sickly yellow orange for me, I much prefer my nice WHITE Ra Clicky.
 

gswitter

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Ordered it on a Tuesday - Henry responded saying I'd have it within 2 weeks - it showed up on Friday. Great service!!
The same happened when I ordered a Clicky a few months back.

It's a little thing, but it's a good/typical example of why I appreciate the Ra lights - my expectations are generally high, but still reasonable, and then my experiences generally exceed those expectations.
 

hoongern

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The high CRI is much too sickly yellow orange for me, I much prefer my nice WHITE Ra Clicky.

Just a side note I couldn't not mention - high CRI has nothing to do with yellow or orange. There are high CRI yellow tinted lights, and there are high CRI "white" tinted lights. What you meant is that the warm tint light (or low CCT) is too orange. Tint and CRI are two completely different things.
 

Kgp

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Just a side note I couldn't not mention - high CRI has nothing to do with yellow or orange. There are high CRI yellow tinted lights, and there are high CRI "white" tinted lights. What you meant is that the warm tint light (or low CCT) is too orange. Tint and CRI are two completely different things.

I think he was reffering to the high cri clicky, and not just the high cri, being the high cri clicky only comes in one tint, and thats warm white, around 3600k. It does look very yellow.

While we are on the subject, I dont thiink the high cri does that good of a job rendering colors? I can see colors much more accurate with my GT model. I was looking at purple flowers the other day, they were very hard to see with the warm white high cri light, they popped right out with my 140gt? I think for blues and purples the high cri does not render good at all.
 

run4jc

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I think he was reffering to the high cri clicky, and not just the high cri, being the high cri clicky only comes in one tint, and thats warm white, around 3600k. It does look very yellow.

While we are on the subject, I dont thiink the high cri does that good of a job rendering colors? I can see colors much more accurate with my GT model. I was looking at purple flowers the other day, they were very hard to see with the warm white high cri light, they popped right out with my 140gt? I think for blues and purples the high cri does not render good at all.

I'm no expert by any stretch of the imagination!! My understanding is that the intent is to match the light of the sun as closely as possible - or even be close to an incan light. My McGizmo Sundrop XR-U gives me the most pleasing rendition on most colors, but the Ra seems close. As for blues and purples - perhaps it is logical that a whiter light would make them appear more natural? Again - I don't speak from a position of knowledge, but a position of opinion.

Before anyone gets after me, please remember that! :eek:

Regardless, I find the warmer tints more pleasing - less 'harsh'...but again, everyone has their preferences and there are many possible choices out there to match one's preference!:party:
 

kaichu dento

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Ordered it on a Tuesday - Henry responded saying I'd have it within 2 weeks - it showed up on Friday. Great service!!

I envisioned this as being my 'go to' light when I needed a high CRI beam and more throw than my Sundrop XR-U can provide. It'll fill that bill and more! I really like the 4 pre-programmed levels, although it'll be fun experimenting with other programming...I'd really like for it to come on in the lowest possible setting.
Henry is the perfect example of how to handle customer service; tell them a safe time window for delivery, then try your best to get it there ahead of time!

I've really been enjoying mine and will soon have a Sundrop XR-U to mate with it as well!:twothumbs
 

BigBluefish

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Thanks for the beamshots.

I see one of these in my future.

I was going to get the EDC Executive. But I think I'll shell out the extra coin for the high CRI.

Well, you've just cost me more money. But at least I don't have to agonize over the decision anymore.
 

knightrider

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I really like the 4 pre-programmed levels, although it'll be fun experimenting with other programming...I'd really like for it to come on in the lowest possible setting.

Hoping to do some beamshots and photos in the next few days. I'm so impressed with this tank of a light, I may order another one with the tactical operation, raised button and the 170 lumen emitter. It's a keeper. Thanks for all who contributed to this thread and helped with my decision to buy this great light.

:twothumbs lovecpf

Great minds think a like...

This sounds almost exactly like what happened to me recently. I got a Ra Clicky 140E (standard) about a week ago. And I want to configure like you said - lowest low first, med, high-med, high. Right after I got the light I started thinking about getting a Tactical (raised button) model also. Just ordered it on Saturday.

It will be great to have the 140E start lowest low and work it's way up. Then having the 140T go from highest to lowest. Having 2 opposite lights if you will. Also having 2 beam types.

I'm such a Surefire addict/lover these lights have really surprised me in a good way. Can't believe I sold my HDS-XR42 a few years ago, was a dumb move.
 

CLBME

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Knightrider- I've done the same thing. I have a 120 EDC that I have programmed to come on in the lowest mode. Great for checking on the kids and moving around the house at night if I wake up. I have a 170Tn that I've left as is. This way, like you will have, I have two beam shapes and opposite ends of the spectrum on light levels at turn-on.

I also like the raised button too. Very easy to manipulate. I hope you think the same.

Great minds think a like...

This sounds almost exactly like what happened to me recently. I got a Ra Clicky 140E (standard) about a week ago. And I want to configure like you said - lowest low first, med, high-med, high. Right after I got the light I started thinking about getting a Tactical (raised button) model also. Just ordered it on Saturday.

It will be great to have the 140E start lowest low and work it's way up. Then having the 140T go from highest to lowest. Having 2 opposite lights if you will. Also having 2 beam types.

I'm such a Surefire addict/lover these lights have really surprised me in a good way. Can't believe I sold my HDS-XR42 a few years ago, was a dumb move.
 

knightrider

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Knightrider- I've done the same thing. I have a 120 EDC that I have programmed to come on in the lowest mode. Great for checking on the kids and moving around the house at night if I wake up. I have a 170Tn that I've left as is. This way, like you will have, I have two beam shapes and opposite ends of the spectrum on light levels at turn-on.

I also like the raised button too. Very easy to manipulate. I hope you think the same.

Excellent to hear that you like them set up this way and how you are using them. I will also be using the lights for similar things.

I'll probably leave the Tactical model programmed as is like you did and also make the 140E come on super low, it sounds like a great combo. And with the raised button versus the flush it won't be hard to tell which is which in the dark on in a pocket, etc.

It's great to be able to program them how you want. It will be cool to have 2 lights that have very different uses. Very interested in getting the Tactical and trying out the raised button, I know it will be nice.
 

run4jc

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Knightrider and CLBME - thanks for your posts - they are helpful!

This morning I took my high CRI Clicky out for the EARLY morning dog walk - also had a McGizmo Haiku XP-G. Interesting - for close proximity the Ra was perfect, but for lighting the way 50 feet + ahead the Haiku was still my favorite.

This alone convinced me that I need to try the 170 lumen tactical Clicky! I'm sure it would be a great 'flamethrower' for those times when I want to see far ahead.

And as for the preset, here's another alternative, and the one I'm using - just defeat the presets and allow the light to come on at the last used setting. I had the light at the bedside last night, and the last setting I used before lights out was low low - when I got up in the middle of the night, it obviously came on in the low low setting. Then, this morning when I went out I bumped it up to high. When I turned it off then back on it was still in high - no need to ramp it up.

Just another alternative to consider, and another feature of this light that makes it so good.

:thumbsup:
 

Th232

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I'm no expert by any stretch of the imagination!! My understanding is that the intent is to match the light of the sun as closely as possible - or even be close to an incan light. My McGizmo Sundrop XR-U gives me the most pleasing rendition on most colors, but the Ra seems close. As for blues and purples - perhaps it is logical that a whiter light would make them appear more natural? Again - I don't speak from a position of knowledge, but a position of opinion.

Pretty close to what I remember, that a high CRI closer replicates what you see from a black body radiator (e.g. the sun or incans, both of which by definition are 100 CRI) at that colour temperature. So the high CRI RA clicky should be fairly similar to an incan at 3600 K, which should be about the same as sunlight a bit before sunset (or after sunrise), and I think that may be why some blues and purples aren't rendered well. E.g. candles, by definition, have 100 CRI, but the extremely low colour temperature means that they definitely don't render blues and purples well, I suspect this is a similar situation here.

Kgp, what do the colours of the purple flowers look like at that the above times?

On that note, I currently have some high CRI SSC P4s and Nichias at ~4000 and 4500 K respectively. I must try them out soon.
 

knightrider

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Thanks for the tip run4jc, I really like that idea. Also sounds much easier than reprogramming completely. But haven't tried to do any customization stuff with it yet, hoping it isn't too hard to figure out.
 
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