Ra Clicky Part 5

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:)> said:
I just threw up in my mouth at the thought of luxlover taking a bath with his Clicky. :sick2::faint::shakehead

:nana:

Please don't do it. 🙂

Luxlover, do you have a Twisty yet?
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Sorry for the horrible mental image I elicited. How about I take a shot of my Clicky taking a bubble bath with my rubber ducky? You are right, I shouldn't think of ruining the sterling reputation of my new light. :ohgeez:

Yes Sir, I most certainly do have a Ra Twisty. She is a 100Tw #2240. Should I take a picture of her taking a bath, too....without me? :devil:

Jeff


 
A couples shot would be splendid😀

I am very interested in hearing your impressions on the Clicky. I haven't ordered yet because I don't want to wait for delivery, but I fully plan on getting a couple.
 
:)> said:
A couples shot would be splendid. 😀

I am very interested in hearing your impressions on the Clicky. I haven't ordered yet because I don't want to wait for delivery, but I fully plan on getting a couple.
Click to expand...
Oh, you nasty boy! :shakehead

Impressions will accompany my pictorial extravaganza.

Jeff


 
Could someone with a production light measure the circumference
of the thread on the battery holder? My idea is to maybe put a thin circlip over the thread so I have the two holes to attach a lanyard until the clips come.
I would hate to lose it when I get it!
 
Kamakazikev24 said:
Could someone with a production light measure the circumference
of the thread on the battery holder? My idea is to maybe put a thin circlip over the thread so I have the two holes to attach a lanyard until the clips come.
I would hate to lose it when I get it!
Click to expand...
OK, diameter of threads = 0.92" (23.37mm)
C = pi x diameter
pi x 0.92" = 3.1416 x 0.92" = 2.89" (73.41mm)


 
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The first set of pictures will be full body shots, with lighting coming from different directions. Believe it or not, my light source was my Ra Twisty held in my hands, with my Canon PowerShot A620 7.1Mpixel Digital Camera resting on a Samsonite tripod. Please excuse the dust and other particles on my formica table, picked up by the camera. Look at the beautiful subject.....

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Nice pics Jeff. :thumbsup:

Anyone of the reflector/led? :poke:

Still on the fence since I'm not sure how much better it can be than my modded HDS... 😱

Sverre
 
Enzo Morocioli said:
looks like Jeff's Clicky shouldn't have any problems tailstanding.
Click to expand...

I can't speak for his but, on mine the tailstand is wobbly. The rubber grommet protrudes just enough so that the light won't stand straight. You can't see this fact in these pictures.


Karl
 
NoFair said:
Nice pics Jeff. :thumbsup:

Anyone of the reflector/led? :poke:

Still on the fence since I'm not sure how much better it can be than my modded HDS... 😱

Sverre
Click to expand...
I took a frontal shot of the reflector to demonstrate the orange peel texture, but it is not a good shot of the Seoul P4 emitter. I will post more shots very shortly. Stay onthe fence for now, and don't fall off. Be a cautious shopper and thorughly evaluate the Clicky compared to your Seoulmated HDS light. I have more pictures to post.


 
Your a top man! Best pics so far, and thanks for the info.
Now you gotta get inside it 🙂

Be nice to have a clip to block those holes up, are they threaded? And do they go all the way though, sorry for all the Q's but you got and I ain't!
 
Enzo Morocioli said:
looks like Jeff's Clicky shouldn't have any problems tailstanding.
Click to expand...
Sam,
Regretably, I must admit that with a cell deployed, my light has a slight wobble until it stabilizes. I am sure that Henry will want to know about each of us who detects a wobble in their light. The funny thing is that the light without a cell sits perfectly flat. I assure everybody that the light WILL NOT topple over.

Back to my picture posting.....
 
Kamakazikev24 said:
Your a top man! Best pics so far, and thanks for the info.
Now you gotta get inside it 🙂

Be nice to have a clip to block those holes up, are they threaded? And do they go all the way through. Sorry for all the Q's, but you got and I ain't!
Click to expand...
Thank you. I realize that I need more lighting experience.

Don't you worry about the inside of the light. Luxlover is in the house. More pictures are on the way.....

Sorry I missed your mounting hole question.....
That is an ideal way to fill those ugly holes. Yes, they are threaded, but the light couldn't remain waterproof if they were through-holes. They are blind holes that stop "somewhere" inside.

I like the Q's, because I have A's for all of your curious boys and girls.

I am loving this light more and more with every post I write and with every shot I take.

Brace yourself for the rest of my shots.....


 
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Packing material. The tool in the small bag is a P51 Military Style Can Opener, compliments of Russtang. The goop in the bag with the o-ring is Henry's supplied aerospace grease. Note the credit card sized Quick Reference Guide. Don't leave home without it!
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Shot of the pocket clip's two mounting holes.
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Shot of the flatness of the endcap boot, without the battery installed.
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Close-up shot, demonstrating the flatness of the endcap boot without a battery installed.
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Shot of the light tailstanding flat, without the battery installed.
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Close-up of the knurling pattern.
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Internal shot of the battery case, to demonstrate the HAIII finish at the top end and the sense signal wire's position at the top end.
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Shot inside the head to demonstrate the HAIII finish of the o-ring's mating surface, the bare aluminum threads, the positive battery spring and plate components and the new/simplified light module's pc board. Notice the bumper that is in position inside the spring, to limit spring compression in a front end impact. This is not to be confused with the "rubber baby buggy bumper" in the NovaTac lights. Negative power from the battery is transmitted through the battery case's threads to the threads in the head.
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A little better shot of the head.
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Shots of the battery case end, with the sense wire protruding above the top.
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Notice how robust are the threads!!!
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Another view of the sense wire protruding above the top.
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Notice the horizontal cutout, to keep the sense wire in place and protruding above the top.
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A somewhat washed out shot of the battery case's full length cutout within which the sense wire runs. Notice how the cutout disappears at the bottom. This wire MUST be attached to the switch assembly within the endcap. It transfers a small electrical signal when the button is pressed, and carries that signal to the light module in the head. The wire touches the outer solder track as seen in the two internal head shots above. The microprocessor in the light module interprets the presses into the actions programmed at the factory or customized by the user. Keep in mind that the same spring/plate components are situated at the bottom of the battery case as are seen in the head. I am NOT sure if the bumper also exists within the spring.
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Shot of the reflector's orange peel texture, with an insufficient view of the Seoul P4 emitter. I owe you a better shot of the emitter. It is not easy illuminating the emitter without getting some of the light reflected back into the camera lens.
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Close-up of the snazzy laser etching.
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Zenas made a request for some specific shots in post #397. I will work on them.
 
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