Rattlesnake M90 questions

Vermonter73

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If you're worried about magnets slipping, you could wrap electrical tape around the junction of the batteries. This would also make a nice pack for easy swapping.
 

KeeperSD

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Just wondering if anyone has had dealings with the gun cable tail switch? Could this be mounted on the body of the light itself? Is the switch pressure activated? I have heard Paul_in_Maryland speak of wrapping his WE's in some sort of tape to improve grip. Maybe this could be used to mount the switch on the body in a Maglite switch fashion?


This may sound an odd question, but it is quite relevant as i would like to utilise this light at work however with a tail switch it would be very difficult to use with a firearm, considering the method in which we use to low light shoot
 

Glen C

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Hi Keeper, I don't have a new guntailcap in front of me at the moment but an older one and yes that would work. It is a pressure switch. I am familiar with the technique you use and how it demands a forward switch. Will be interesting to hear other opinions if others have used it this way.
 

KeeperSD

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KeeperSD said:
Just wondering if anyone has had dealings with the gun cable tail switch? Could this be mounted on the body of the light itself? Is the switch pressure activated? I have heard Paul_in_Maryland speak of wrapping his WE's in some sort of tape to improve grip. Maybe this could be used to mount the switch on the body in a Maglite switch fashion?

Looks like i may have to be the Guinea Pig to try this, once the finances become available to buy a rattlesnake that is.

Glen the gun tail cap that is on the website, is that the new or old one? The one in the picture that you emailed me looks better anyway as the cable is shorter, after looking at the website i was thinking that there was a lot of cable that would need shortening for this to work properly.

*Edit: After looking a little more thoroughly i discovered that tail caps with both the straight cord and coiled cord are available.v
 
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Vermonter73

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Seems like you'd be better off with a light that has the switch already in that position, rather than risking cords getting tangled, all those extra connections to fail, etc.
 

B'hamFAL

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Vermonter73 said:
If you're worried about magnets slipping, you could wrap electrical tape around the junction of the batteries. This would also make a nice pack for easy swapping.

You still have to disassemble the 'pack' for charging if you don't use the tailcap charger. For those of us really worried about magnet slippage an O-ring around the magnet(s) will keep it from shorting against the body on the offhand chance it moves.

I dunno why but the long extension seems easier to hold than the short for me. I use a 2x17500 powered 9p for low light shooting anyway. The m90 is too bright for me and tends to make the tritium sights disappear. It works great for the 4 people to each side of you, that's 8 shooters total, during night qualifying as they don't even need a light.

I don't think the WE13v bulb is ideal for long burn times either, I've had one melt the glass envelope already.
 
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KeeperSD

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Vermonter73 said:
Seems like you'd be better off with a light that has the switch already in that position, rather than risking cords getting tangled, all those extra connections to fail, etc.

Already have a magcharger at work. Just thought since i am going to buy a Rattlesnake anyway that it would be interesting to see. It is always one of my concerns when using my raider is that to shoot with it would mean using an untrained technique.

If i did do it the cord would be wrapped tightly to the body, so no chance of it getting caught and i don't think there is that many more connections compared to a clickie tail cap
 

PeteBroccolo

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I forgot to mention about my M90X - I tried making a belt loop carrier for mine out of an old OC spray canister holster that I cut the bottom plug out of. It worked, but exposed the body and tail-cap to damage.

Then I got an old 26" ASP baton scabbard - the leather-basketweave-look-alike nylon/plastic style with break-out side split. I removed the tensioner, added some book-binding repair tape, and my M90X sits in it tail-cap down nice and secure. The body of the scabbard is just long enough to accomodate the body of the light from tail-cap to the flare of the head.
 

ROGUE

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Glen,

Am i right in assuming that the M90 has an LED conversion kit?

Is it worth upgrading from the incandescent to the LED?
 

Glen C

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Hi Rogue, there is an LED drop in for the Snake but it is 170 lumens, I reccommend the Lumens Factory EO13 700 lumens lamp, I have it in my Rattlesnake and it is bright. We have them in stock ;)
 

ROGUE

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Hi Rogue, there is an LED drop in for the Snake but it is 170 lumens, I reccommend the Lumens Factory EO13 700 lumens lamp, I have it in my Rattlesnake and it is bright. We have them in stock ;)

Sweet.

Can you shoot me a pm/email with the price of the 700 lumens lamp please mate?

Is it a simple head swap, or what?
 

Dung Beetle

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This is great, I am newbie, I was about to order a WE M90X, with the 13v conversion kit and the EO-13 lamp 700 Lu, and the 500 Lu, since I want the ability to switch back to CR123 when I'm out there with no electricity, no car charger. Is this a workable solution? :thinking:
 

Glen C

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Dung, you can get a 12V lamp, either the WE or LF one which will allow you to run 4 x CR123. You will also need to unscrew the spacer, as when the Rattlesnake is 13V it is effectively 4.5 CR123 long.
 

Dung Beetle

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OK thank for info. Glen, one more question, I read on the flashlight review that I can now charge the rechargeable batteries right in the flashlight with their new charger? I don't have to mess with the magnets. Will I able able to do this with their 13v charger, on an WE M90X.
 
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