Raw aluminum for the 12x18650/9xCREE torch from scratch.

[VanIsleDSM]

Went to the metal store yesterday and picked up some aluminum for my flashlight I plan I make from scratch. I've already built a custom buck driver that will utilize 12 18650s in series to drive 9 CREE R2s in series with adjustable output.

There will be 4 rows of 3 18650s as shown in the pic.. I just bored out a little piece to fit them in (only have 2 18650s right now so I used a co2 cartridge as a dummy for fitment, same diameter, others are on order)

Wall will be about 5mm thick on the body.. after I knurl and design and such I imagine it may be down to 4mm in some areas... still nice and heavy duty.

I've haven't done any threading on my lathe yet.. have to grind myself a couple tools for inside and outside threading and start practicing a bit... also gotta do some of reading first to make sure I've got the basics figured. I read a trick to making the threading easier.. to just stop the lathe at the end of the thread, reverse it back, and then take another cut.. and this way you need not worry about the thread dial. I think I'll probably go that route.

As I'm only working with a 7x14 I'll think I'll just barely be able to bore it all the way out. reaching from both sides and repositioning the boring bar further and further out of the holder as I go. I think to make things easy working on the body.. I'll just do the threads on the outside of both ends.. then the head and tail cap can have the inside threads. This way if I can't quite reach from both ends with the boring bar through the body I can cut it shorter and just make a longer head and longer tail cap just bored out the same ID as the body to accept the same length of batteries.

I'm definitely a novice with the lathe.. so expect some questions pretty soon! ..a few things to do first though.. need to order up a live center and a steady rest. So far I've really only been doing things close to the chuck.'

 

[PhotonFanatic]

I've haven't done any threading on my lathe yet.. have to grind myself a couple tools for inside and outside threading and start practicing a bit... also gotta do some of reading first to make sure I've got the basics figured. I read a trick to making the threading easier.. to just stop the lathe at the end of the thread, reverse it back, and then take another cut.. and this way you need not worry about the thread dial. I think I'll probably go that route.

Just make sure you withdraw the cutting tool from the workpiece before you reverse the spindle.

But if you have a threading dial, why not learn to use it?

This is a mighty ambitious machining job for your first piece--good to see you enjoy a challenge! Best of luck--there are many here ready to help.

 

[VanIsleDSM]

Thanks PF.

I bought some extra material to practice on... I know that will come in handy.

I'll look into the threading dial.. I just see so many different types.. I wouldn't need to worry if I don't need it.. I guess it depends on what type of thread I want.. is there a consensus on what's best for a flashlight? I don't exactly know how to work out the o-ring seals yet either.. I'll be taking my time though.. and learning everything I need to along the way. I'm sure the CPF brain picking will come in quite handy

 

[cmacclel]

The Majority of lights out there seem to use 20TPI. I always use the threading dial. If your going to learn you should really try learning the proper way

Mac

 

[precisionworks]

I'll look into the threading dial.. I just see so many different types

Each model lathe has only one threading dial that will fit & work. Larger machines, 16" and up, have the dial built into the carriage. Smaller machines may have a built in dial, but many, like the 10" South Bend, are installed only when threading.

All work the same way, no matter what size machine. The thread dial is directly driven by a pinion gear that engages the leadscrew.

just stop the lathe at the end of the thread

As long as you quickly withdraw the tool, that will work. If not, you'll need a large supply of threadform tools

Threading isn't hard to learn, but is is more quickly learned if you can work with someone who will show you how to set up, how to withdraw & reset the tool, how to use a fishtail guage, how to advance the tool, etc.

 

[wquiles]

Threading isn't hard to learn, but is is more quickly learned if you can work with someone who will show you how to set up, how to withdraw & reset the tool, how to use a fishtail guage, how to advance the tool, etc.

Yep - well said. I had some help from Gadget_Lover, but it was Mac who helped me while on the phone - that and of course plenty of practice

Will

 

[gadget_lover]

Threading is really not that hard once you learn the basics.

On the 7x models, a trick you can use is to always engage the carriage drive when the treading dial reaches 'one' each time. This works because the position 1 is properly oriented on all of the common threads. You can verify this by looking at the "indicator table" on your lathe to see that position 1 is common to all of them.

I can remember the number 1.

For ease of use, I painted the number 7 on a darker color so that I'd have a clue when I get in a hurry and select '7' instead of 1.



Daniel